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+.vertical-story-card-item{cursor:pointer;font-family:"ReithSans","Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,sans-serif;height:456px;margin:20px 10px;position:relative;width:297px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}@media only screen and (max-width: 600px){.vertical-story-card-item{width:276px}}.vertical-story-card-item img{width:100%}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{background-color:#fff;bottom:0;box-shadow:0 0 5px #d8d8d8;display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:111px;justify-content:center;position:absolute;right:0;width:275px}@media only screen and (max-width: 1007px){.vertical-story-card-item__content-box{width:261px}}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h1{color:#4a4a4a;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3px;margin:0;padding:0 10px;text-transform:uppercase}.vertical-story-card-item__content-box h2{color:#3d3d3d;font-size:1.3125rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.06px;line-height:42px;margin:0;padding:0 10px}
+.vertical-story-group{font-family:"ReithSans","Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,sans-serif;position:relative}.vertical-story-group img{object-fit:cover;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container{height:370px;position:relative;width:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-container img{height:100%}.vertical-story-group__image-mask{background:linear-gradient(to right, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6), rgba(0, 0, 0, 0));bottom:0;left:0;position:absolute;right:0;top:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container{color:#fff;left:50%;position:absolute;text-align:center;top:80px;transform:translate(-50%, -50%)}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container{top:120px}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h1{font-size:.9rem;font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:3.6px;margin-bottom:20px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container h2{font-size:2.1rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:-0.25px;line-height:42px}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;left:0;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:absolute;right:0;top:65px;width:70%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape{align-items:center;flex-direction:column}}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape h1{color:#fff;font-size:2.25rem;font-weight:lighter;letter-spacing:.95px;margin:0}.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.8);border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:inline-block;font-size:.875rem;height:60px;letter-spacing:.183rem;outline:none;padding:15px 32px;text-align:center;text-decoration:none;width:260px}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__heading-container-landscape button{margin-top:50px}}.vertical-story-group__container{display:grid;grid-auto-rows:minmax(auto, auto);grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit, minmax(290px, 310px));height:100%;justify-content:center;justify-items:center;margin-top:-210px;width:100%}@media only screen and (max-width: 599px){.vertical-story-group__container{margin-top:-120px}}.beta-btn{background-color:#e6711b;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;height:25px;line-height:12px;padding:0 7px;width:66px}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow{cursor:pointer;transform:rotate(45deg)}.beta-btn:hover .beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(-35deg)}.beta-btn__copy{color:#444;display:block;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:0;line-height:17px;margin:16px auto;max-width:50%}.beta-btn__arrow{border:solid #fff;border-width:0 2px 2px 0;display:inline-block;padding:3px;position:relative;top:-1px;transform:rotate(-45deg);transition:.4s}.beta-btn__arrow--expanded{transform:rotate(45deg)}
+.location-header{font-size:14px;letter-spacing:2.92px;line-height:19px;text-transform:uppercase}
+.temperature-switcher{background:rgba(0,0,0,0);border:0;cursor:pointer;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;font-weight:300;white-space:nowrap}.temperature-switcher:active{color:currentColor}.temperature-switcher__active{font-weight:bold}.temperature-switcher span{margin:0 .2ex}
+.day{--w-day-font-size: 14px;--w-day-temp-font-size: 20px;--w-day-temp-font-size-big: 32px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: 600;--w-day-name-font-weight: 500;align-items:center;color:#959595;display:flex;flex-direction:column;font-size:var(--w-day-font-size)}.day--desktop{--w-day-temp-font-size: 24px;--w-day-temp-font-weight: normal;--w-day-name-font-weight: 600}.day:first-of-type{color:#4b4b4b}.day__name{font-weight:var(--w-day-name-font-weight);line-height:1;margin-bottom:.75em;text-transform:uppercase}.day__symbol-header{display:block;height:80px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:98px}.day__symbol{display:block;height:40px;margin:7px 0 5px;width:50px}.day--desktop .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-top:15px;width:70px}.day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size);font-weight:var(--w-day-temp-font-weight);line-height:1.2;margin-top:.75em;text-transform:lowercase}.day__temp--header{color:#4b4b4b;font-size:32px;font-weight:bold}.day--mobile:first-of-type{display:flex;flex-flow:row wrap;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:3em}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__symbol{height:60px;margin-right:10px;overflow:visible;width:80px}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__temp{font-size:var(--w-day-temp-font-size-big);font-weight:bold;margin-top:0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location{font-size:120%;font-weight:500;margin:1em 0}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{color:#959595}.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__location,.day--mobile:first-of-type .day__name{text-align:center;width:100%}
+.weather{--w-height: 50px;--w-wrapper-margin: 24px;--w-days-flexbasis: 33%;margin-bottom:2rem}.weather--desktop{--w-height: 80px;--w-wrapper-margin: 50px;--w-days-flexbasis: initial;margin-bottom:1rem}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .weather__days{flex-flow:row wrap}.weather:not(.weather--desktop) .day:first-of-type{flex-basis:100%;width:auto}.weather__separator{border-right:1px solid #dcdcdc;display:block;height:var(--w-height)}.weather__days{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-basis:var(--w-days-flexbasis);justify-content:space-evenly;margin-top:2.5rem}.weather__days--desktop{margin-top:4rem}.weather__header{align-items:center;display:flex;flex-flow:column;justify-content:center;margin-bottom:var(--w-wrapper-margin)}.weather__header button{margin-top:1.5rem}.weather__header--desktop{position:relative}.weather__header--desktop button{margin:0;position:absolute;right:0}
+.destination-header{width:100%}.destination-header__container{align-items:center;display:flex;justify-content:center;min-height:380px;overflow:hidden;padding:0 16px;position:relative}.destination-header__image{height:100%;overflow:hidden;position:absolute;width:100%}.destination-header__image img{bottom:-100%;display:block;height:100%;left:-100%;margin:auto;min-height:100%;min-width:100%;object-fit:cover;position:absolute;right:-100%;top:-100%;width:100%}.destination-header__text{color:#fff;font-size:28px;letter-spacing:-0.95px;line-height:37.4px;max-width:488px;padding:0 20px;position:relative;text-align:center;text-transform:uppercase;width:100%}.destination-header__text a{color:#fff;font-weight:300;text-decoration:none}.destination-header__text--desktop{font-size:36px}.destination-header__text-container{border-bottom:solid 1px #fff;display:inline-block;line-height:1.3;padding-bottom:17px}.destination-header__text-container--desktop{padding-bottom:.75ex}.destination-header__link-page,.destination-header__advert{color:#fff;font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.5px;margin-top:20px;position:relative;text-align:center}.destination-header__link-page span,.destination-header__advert span{display:block;width:100%}.destination-header__link-page--desktop,.destination-header__advert--desktop{margin-top:40px}.destination-header__link-page{left:14px;margin:0;position:absolute;text-transform:uppercase;top:20px}.destination-header__link-page--desktop{left:25px;top:36px}.destination-header__background{background-image:radial-gradient(50% 49%, rgba(5, 36, 53, 0.37) 50%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0) 83%);height:100%;pointer-events:none;position:absolute;top:0;width:100%}.destination-header a{color:#fff;text-decoration:none}
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+.filter{display:inline-block;max-width:160px;position:relative}.filter__button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;font-size:16px;padding:16px;width:160px}.filter__content{background-color:#000;display:none;position:absolute;width:160px;z-index:1}.filter:focus .filter__content,.filter:hover .filter__content{display:block}.filter__content--open{display:block}.filter__content button{background-color:#000;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;display:block;font-style:italic;padding:12px 16px;text-decoration:none;width:100%}.filter__content button:hover{background-color:#494848}
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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 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viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 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fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media(-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 2.5H24v-1l-3-1.5L25 5l-1-1-5.5 4L17 5h-1v5.5zM10.5 13c1.75 0 2.5-.75 2.5-2.5V5h-1l-1.5 3L5 4 4 5l4 5.5L5 12v1h5.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-fullscreen .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M24 16v5.5c0 1.75-.75 2.5-2.5 2.5H16v-1l3-1.5-4-5.5 1-1 5.5 4 1.5-3h1zM6 16l1.5 3 5.5-4 1 1-4 5.5 3 1.5v1H7.5C5.75 24 5 23.25 5 21.5V16h1zm7-11v1l-3 1.5 4 5.5-1 1-5.5-4L6 13H5V7.5C5 5.75 5.75 5 7.5 5H13zm11 2.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H16v1l3 1.5-4 5.5 1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1V7.5z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-shrink .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M18.5 16c-1.75 0-2.5.75-2.5 2.5V24h1l1.5-3 5.5 4 1-1-4-5.5 3-1.5v-1h-5.5zM13 18.5c0-1.75-.75-2.5-2.5-2.5H5v1l3 1.5L4 24l1 1 5.5-4 1.5 3h1v-5.5zm3-8c0 1.75.75 2.5 2.5 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.mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 29 29' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 14l4-8 4 8h-8z'/%3E%3Cpath d='M10.5 16l4 8 4-8h-8z' fill='%23ccc'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23333'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23aaa'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 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viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e58978'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-waiting .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{-webkit-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite;-moz-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-o-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;-ms-animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s infinite linear;animation:mapboxgl-spin 2s linear infinite}@media(-ms-high-contrast: active){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23fff'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate:disabled .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23999'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3Ccircle cx='10' cy='10' r='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M14 5l1 1-9 9-1-1 9-9z' fill='red'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-active .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 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fill='%2333b5e5'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate-background-error .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' fill='%23e54e33'%3E%3Cpath d='M10 4C9 4 9 5 9 5v.1A5 5 0 005.1 9H5s-1 0-1 1 1 1 1 1h.1A5 5 0 009 14.9v.1s0 1 1 1 1-1 1-1v-.1a5 5 0 003.9-3.9h.1s1 0 1-1-1-1-1-1h-.1A5 5 0 0011 5.1V5s0-1-1-1zm0 2.5a3.5 3.5 0 110 7 3.5 3.5 0 110-7z'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}}@media(-ms-high-contrast: black-on-white){.mapboxgl-ctrl button.mapboxgl-ctrl-geolocate .mapboxgl-ctrl-icon{background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg width='29' height='29' viewBox='0 0 20 20' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cpath 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+                c0,0.552-0.224,1.052-0.586,1.414S182.552,358,182,358z" data-webtasks-id="d824fc5b-4bf4-4e94"></path><path fill="#FF4C98" d="M372.106,248.243l34-58.89c0.275-0.476,0.33-1.022,0.197-1.517c-0.133-0.495-0.453-0.94-0.93-1.215
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+                S254.552,400,254,400z" data-webtasks-id="310d1813-5e11-41a3"></path><path fill="#963CE1" d="M444.77,373.863l-85.829,26.232c-0.529,0.162-1.073,0.093-1.526-0.148s-0.812-0.655-0.973-1.184
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+                C445.71,373.342,445.297,373.702,444.77,373.863z" data-webtasks-id="72d96ece-a82e-4592"></path></g></svg><span data-webtasks-id="c9fa5f1f-828f-4e9b">Bitesize</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbeebies" data-webtasks-id="b3a349b6-3bfe-4e56"><a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbeebies" data-webtasks-id="67259e9c-2f7e-4ff3"><span data-webtasks-id="5d45f3b7-a519-4e82">CBeebies</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-cbbc" data-webtasks-id="932e60e5-5e32-4919"><a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/cbbc" data-webtasks-id="d9093858-0029-49fe"><span data-webtasks-id="acd222e8-376d-47d6">CBBC</span></a></li><li class="orb-nav-food" data-webtasks-id="796300bc-0922-416f"><a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/food" data-webtasks-id="d36d8687-df9f-42f2"><span data-webtasks-id="692690bc-62f7-46d4">Food</span></a></li></ul></nav><nav class="orbit-header-links international" data-webtasks-id="2f7115c3-e2a3-4f15"><ul data-webtasks-id="b46d0f4f-5ab8-4e20"><li class="orb-nav-homedotcom" 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+                S89.448,424,90,424z" data-webtasks-id="4aab9942-5d8b-41e3"></path><path fill="#149EDC" d="M258,166h164c0.552,0,1.052-0.224,1.414-0.586S424,164.552,424,164V90c0-0.552-0.224-1.052-0.586-1.414
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data-webtasks-id="568c9cf5-e124-4b30"><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="The big myth about patriarchy" src="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fqb6yq.jpg" alt="The big myth about patriarchy" id="" data-webtasks-id="6d4962a0-83fa-4953"></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--future" data-webtasks-id="0e6927d4-27ae-47c1"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--white rectangle-story-item__label--future" target="" rel="" id="" href="/future" data-webtasks-id="8e6d5c01-00a2-4a37"><span data-webtasks-id="96ffda9e-6027-42dd">Future</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container" data-webtasks-id="9f20cc31-5c64-4c67"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20230525-how-did-patriarchy-actually-begin" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="d02d0333-5ad8-4c8d"><h2 style="all: unset;" data-webtasks-id="dd9f2260-1cfd-48b4">The big myth about patriarchy</h2></a></div><div data-webtasks-id="e3ecefae-b8fd-42c0"></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__item swimlane__item--desktop swimlane__item--four-columns" data-webtasks-id="17e380ec-4cc3-43ac"><div data-bbc-container="around-the-bbc" data-bbc-title="The rise of the 'no-wash' movement" data-bbc-metadata="{&quot;APP&quot;:&quot;around-the-bbc&quot;,&quot;CHD&quot;:&quot;card::2&quot;}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font" data-webtasks-id="98e3fb85-0fa1-4f6c"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20230529-the-people-who-dont-wash-their-clothes" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="40dcff01-4ce6-4864"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--culture" data-webtasks-id="c87bfac6-de96-4f7b"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image: url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/304x171/p0fr37dx.jpg&quot;);" data-webtasks-id="72764596-9c3b-4e2a"><picture data-webtasks-id="507101ee-7b2c-4988"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fr37dx.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="01db2764-a1e3-4413"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fr37dx.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="002d0841-dcba-4ede"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fr37dx.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="0c24cbd0-4803-4845"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fr37dx.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="fe157042-9b33-41b2"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr37dx.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="5402c1f2-9766-4fba"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr37dx.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="42f97cdb-3b63-4987"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fr37dx.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="782cd301-9dec-49b1"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fr37dx.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="ad04d40d-1a43-44d3"><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="The rise of the 'no-wash' movement" src="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fr37dx.jpg" alt="The rise of the 'no-wash' movement" id="" data-webtasks-id="bc390711-1e74-44b3"></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--culture" data-webtasks-id="a7ce2313-4293-470c"></span></div></div></a><a 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data-bbc-metadata="{&quot;APP&quot;:&quot;around-the-bbc&quot;,&quot;CHD&quot;:&quot;card::3&quot;}" data-bbc-result="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230525-why-young-workers-are-putting-in-so-much-overtime" data-bbc-client-routed="true" class="rectangle-story-item b-reith-sans-font" data-webtasks-id="5ea85432-28a8-490e"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230525-why-young-workers-are-putting-in-so-much-overtime" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="aa9886bd-6f60-4f7d"><div class="rectangle-story-item__image-container rectangle-story-item__image-container--worklife" data-webtasks-id="c41ec2a5-bce6-45f2"><div class="rectangle-image rectangle-image--large" style="background-image: url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/304x171/p0fq8c37.jpg&quot;);" data-webtasks-id="5bb271a2-8c02-4448"><picture data-webtasks-id="11c8bbac-5c9e-4d03"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fq8c37.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="27c61434-18bf-4165"><source media="(min-width:1200px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1600x900/p0fq8c37.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="263b3f18-0b49-4a8a"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fq8c37.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="6bc6aa34-fa61-41e7"><source media="(min-width:880px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/1280x720/p0fq8c37.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="aa4a945e-88f2-4f23"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fq8c37.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="a215d760-4f80-47c7"><source media="(min-width:576px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fq8c37.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="4f349614-07d1-490f"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fq8c37.webp" type="image/webp" data-webtasks-id="41d5dcc9-f0e6-4347"><source media="(min-width:224px)" srcset="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/624x351/p0fq8c37.jpg" type="image/jpeg" data-webtasks-id="86244849-a24a-4e56"><img loading="lazy" draggable="false" title="The generation clocking the most hours" src="https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/976x549/p0fq8c37.jpg" alt="The generation clocking the most hours" id="" data-webtasks-id="79a2a2a5-a082-455c"></picture><span class="rectangle-image__overlay rectangle-image__overlay--worklife" data-webtasks-id="58732a0c-56ff-470c"></span></div></div></a><a class="rectangle-story-item__label b-reith-sans-font rectangle-story-item__label--desktop rectangle-story-item__label--white rectangle-story-item__label--worklife" target="" rel="" id="" href="/worklife" data-webtasks-id="e15fccd7-9711-4ac8"><span data-webtasks-id="216490a2-e588-4deb">Worklife</span></a><div class="rectangle-story-item__container" data-webtasks-id="ea999d91-0a43-47c6"><a href="https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20230525-why-young-workers-are-putting-in-so-much-overtime" class="rectangle-story-item__title rectangle-story-item__title--white" target="" rel="" id="" data-webtasks-id="facd72b7-db9a-4f8c"><h2 style="all: unset;" data-webtasks-id="b741755a-4459-4cac">The generation clocking the most hours</h2></a></div><div data-webtasks-id="096ceb9e-f873-4efb"></div></div></div></div></div></div><div class="swimlane__background-image swimlane__background-image--desktop swimlane__background-image--atb" style="background-image: linear-gradient(rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 0%, rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.5) 100%), url(&quot;https://ychef.files.bbci.co.uk/960x540/p099tg7y.jpg&quot;); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: cover;" data-webtasks-id="dce35fc8-5e62-4c46"></div></div></div></main></div></div>
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Minh City (Credit: Jethuynh\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Crowd and lion dancers during Chinese New Year in Ho Chi Minh City","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0fkszw3.jpg","title":"Crowd and lion dancers during Chinese New Year in Ho Chi Minh City","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0fkszw3","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0fkszw3.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220966},"p0fjdqq1":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0fjdqq1","_id":"6445ce56122e041cf8428663","copyright":"Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":1193,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Ffj\u002Fdq\u002Fp0fjdqq1.jpg","sourceWidth":2121,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Atrani, Amalfi Coast, Italy","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0fjdqq1.jpg","title":"Atrani, Amalfi Coast, Italy (Credit: Marco Bottigelli\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0fjdqq1","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0fjdqq1.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220966},"p0dsxwhs":{"urn":"urn:external:nitro:image:p0dsxwhs","_id":"63b4c316122e0407cb4b17b8","copyright":"Graphixel\u002FGetty Images","fileSizeBytes":0,"mimeType":"image\u002Fjpeg","sourceHeight":4473,"sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fs3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com\u002Flive-galileo-interface-mt-resources-imagebucket-1a92e5tj3b5d6\u002Fp0\u002Fds\u002Fxw\u002Fp0dsxwhs.jpg","sourceWidth":7952,"synopsisLong":"(Credit: Graphixel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisMedium":"(Credit: Graphixel\u002FGetty Images)","synopsisShort":"Train passing over Nine Arch Bridge in Demodara, Ella, Sri Lanka","templateUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0dsxwhs.jpg","title":"Train passing over Nine Arch Bridge in Demodara, Ella, Sri Lanka (Credit: Graphixel\u002FGetty Images)","creationDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","entity":"image","guid":"","id":"p0dsxwhs","modifiedDateTime":"0001-01-01T00:00:00Z","project":"","slug":"","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fychef.files.bbci.co.uk\u002F$recipe\u002Fp0dsxwhs.jpg","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220966}},"articles":{"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","_id":"6399da68122e0476111d9012","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The 180 miles of canals that criss-cross Phoenix, Arizona, allow millions of people to live in the sun-baked desert. But most people don't know the story of their mysterious origins.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECrisscrossing Phoenix, Arizona, are 180 miles of canals &ndash;&nbsp;more than twice as many as Venice and Amsterdam combined. As a native Phoenician, I've spent many hours bicycling their banks alongside joggers and fishermen casting for carp. I've joined wildlife watchers strolling the main Arizona Canal on a summer evening to watch \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.azgfd.com\u002Fwildlife\u002Fspeciesofgreatestconservneed\u002Fbats\u002Fbatviewing\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMexican free-tailed bats\u003C\u002Fa\u003E make a mass fluttering exodus from their roost. And I've chatted with long-time residents who fondly recall fashioning water skis from plywood, tying a tow rope to a pickup truck and jetting through their neighbourhoods in a spray of water and dust.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe canals deliver irrigation and drinking water throughout the metro area, allowing millions of people to live in this sun-baked desert. They are a major reason Phoenix exists, and the city's name hints at their mysterious origins.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1867, the city's founding father, Jack Swilling &ndash; a prospector who had fought on both sides of the Civil War &ndash; stood above the Salt River Valley and saw the remnants of irrigation channels squiggling across the landscape like stretchmarks. He realised that, centuries before, some society had farmed this desert. Soon after, Swilling began scouring out the debris-clogged ditches to bring agriculture back to the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I prophesy that a new city will spring, phoenix-like, from the ruins and ashes of the old","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree years later, Swilling and other Anglo pioneers met to consider names for their settlement. The top contenders were Pumpkinville and Stonewall. Luckily, eccentric English adventurer \"Lord\" Darrell Duppa proposed a name inspired by the resurrection of the canals. \"A great race once dwelt here, and another great race will dwell here in the future,\" he mused. \"I prophesy that a new city will spring, phoenix-like, from the ruins and ashes of the old.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat great society was the Hohokam. Between 100 and 1450 CE, they constructed 1,000 miles of canals &ndash; the largest system of waterways in the Americas north of Peru. This sophisticated irrigation system harnessed river water and a meagre seven inches of annual rainfall and funnelled it to more than 100,000 acres of farmland. And they dug it all by hand with stones and sticks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The engineering is phenomenal,\" said Kathy Henderson, principal investigator at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdesert.com\u002F\"\u003EDesert Archaeology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Arizona-based cultural resources management and research company. \"We don't see a sequence where they start small. The canals are being built to scale as early as 500 or 600 [CE]. They must have been very attuned to how to transport water a long distance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The engineering is phenomenal… They must have been very attuned to how to transport water a long distance","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Gary Huckleberry, a geologist and adjunct researcher at the University of Arizona, the water-wise Hohokam and their ancestors are still relevant today. \"In the Southwest, we have \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-61669233\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome serious issues to deal with in terms of water\u003C\u002Fa\u003E,\" he said. \"The Colorado River is the main source of water for the Southwest, and it's over allocated. You've got population growth and climate change. How are we going to deal with that? I think there's something to be learned by looking at past societies who managed water for thousands of years.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENative Americans have been building canals in Arizona for at least 3,500 years. The oldest waterways archaeologists have found date to 1500 BCE and diverted water from the Santa Cruz River in Tucson. Through trial and error, these ancient river people accumulated knowledge that was passed down from generation to generation, Huckleberry notes. \"So, by the time you get to the Hohokam, they were skilled hydraulic engineers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the dammed Salt River is mostly dry in Phoenix. But visit the north-eastern outskirts of the city &ndash; where \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kayakingthesaltriver.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ekayakers paddle the Salt\u003C\u002Fa\u003E past sienna mountains, cottonwoods and wild horses splashing along the shore &ndash; and you can sense the possibilities that greeted the Hohokam when they migrated here from southern Arizona. The Sonoran Desert is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Ftuzi\u002Flearn\u002Fnature\u002Findex.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's most biodiverse desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It provided ample plants and animals, in addition to the Hohokam's staple crops of maize, squash, beans and cotton.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBecause the Hohokam had no draft animals, they carved the canals by hand using hafted stone hoes. With these simple tools, they created a precise downhill gradient of 0.3 to 0.5m every 1.6km. At the heart of the system, the Salt River, the channels started out large &ndash; more than 25m wide in some places. Then they slimmed as they branched into lateral canals and furrows, like watery arteries and capillaries writ large. These design features helped keep the flow at a consistent rate while minimising siltation and erosion.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the Hohokam expanded their network, they had to contend with the area's complex topography. Multiple mountain ranges tower around and through metro Phoenix, making it, to my mind, the best big city in the world for hiking. But it's a challenge for hydraulic engineers, especially since epic summer monsoons dump rain that rushes along rock-hard surfaces. Floods would have regularly broken through headgates and filled channels with sediment, which meant the Hohokam constantly repaired, cleaned and diverted the canals. This necessitated a highly coordinated society.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It requires cooperation, because all the users of the water from that canal have to agree not only to construct it, but also to maintain it,\" Henderson said. \"An alliance of users would have to agree to certain conditions to keep the entire system going.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, she explained, not all farmers could open the gates to their fields at the same time, because some people further down the line wouldn't get any water. So, the Hohokam committed to sharing water and put themselves on timetables. \"This led to the development of water rights,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the 13th Century, as many as 50,000 Hohokam people lived in villages that were regularly spaced along the canal system. This suggests to archaeologists that water and irrigation land was distributed fairly equitably amongst the community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the centuries, the canal system was reorganised numerous times, but its essential structure remained the same. However, after 1300, the society and the canals began to diminish, and by 1450 the population had plunged. No one knows why. Climate may have played a role, but there's no evidence of especially intense climatic events at the time. And though some irrigation-based cultures have faced salinisation of their soils, evidence indicates the Hohokam managed salt build-up well. While archaeologists once believed the Hohokam population collapsed following a catastrophe, improved techniques \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.archaeologysouthwest.org\u002Fexhibit\u002Fonline-exhibits\u002Fpieces-puzzle\u002Fpiece-5\"\u003Enow point to a very gradual decline\u003C\u002Fa\u003E resulting from a complicated combination of community coalescence, flooding, siltation, reduced wild food resources and conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStill, Huckleberry says, there's much to learn from the Hohokam and their ancestors, who utilised canal irrigation for 3,000 years. \"That, to me, is the definition of sustainable,\" he said. \"They learned how to sustainably farm, to manage water, to not destroy their soils in a way that is commendable and might give us insight into how we might deal with the current plight. I think one of the key lessons is that you don't put all your eggs in one basket; you plan for the worst, and you diversify your strategies.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hohokam may have stopped managing their canal system, but they did not disappear. Their story continues with their descendants, the Akimel O'odham (\"River People\") and Tohono O'odham (\"Desert People\"), who live in central and southern Arizona today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETheir legacy also lives on in the city's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.srpnet.com\u002Fgrid-water-management\u002Fwater-recreation\u002Fcanal-trails\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emodern canals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many of which were constructed by retracing the Hohokam's handiwork. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.phoenix.gov\u002Fstreets\u002Fgrandcanalscape\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGrand Canal\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is now getting spruced up as part of a project to connect Phoenix's east and west suburbs in a continuous multi-use trail. \"Today we are integrating the canals into our communities to improve neighbourhood access, add new public art spaces and contribute to a healthier Phoenix by introducing them as a recreational amenity,\" announced Phoenix Mayor Kate Gallego in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Hohokam's heritage is also preserved in one of their villages, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpueblogrande.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPueblo Grande\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a museum and archaeological park where visitors can see ballcourts, a platform mound (ceremonial house) and re-created adobe houses. Hikers can search for Hohokam petroglyphs of coyotes, mountain sheep and spirals along the trails of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitphoenix.com\u002Fsonoran-desert\u002Fhiking\u002Fpetroglyphs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Mountain Preserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdeervalley.asu.edu\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDeer Valley Petroglyph Preserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And travellers can use the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.adeepermap.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA Deeper Map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E app to swipe right on a modern map of Phoenix and reveal the Hohokam innovations hidden beneath their feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut perhaps one of the Hohokam's most important legacies is less tangible: the idea that it's possible &ndash; through cooperation, commitment and shared knowledge &ndash; to live sustainably in this sun-baked desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fancient-engineering-marvels\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAncient Engineering Marvels\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that takes inspiration from unique architectural ideas or ingenious constructions built by past civilisations and cultures across the planet.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-09-06T03:11:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The watery secret of ancient North America","headlineShort":"The desert people who built a US city","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"33.4484","longitude":"-112.0740","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The 180 miles of canals that criss-cross Phoenix, Arizona, allow millions of people to live in the sun-baked desert. But most people don't know the story of their mysterious origins.","summaryShort":"The city's name pays homage to their engineering prowess","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-09-05T23:12:46.827546Z","entity":"article","guid":"3354a997-acf0-470f-bfc8-c3f3630c0239","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","modifiedDateTime":"2022-09-05T23:43:49.606808Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220933},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub","_id":"6435f20e122e041b12797131","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"While San Francisco and Los Angeles are renowned for their gay scenes, San Diego has long been one of the US' most tolerant cities.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECalifornia has long been known as one of the most progressive, tolerant and LGBTQ+-friendly states in the US. Los Angeles was home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flacountylibrary.org\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2020\u002F09\u002FLearning-Pathway-History-of-LGBTQ-Rights-in-Los-Angeles.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS' first gay rights organisation and coined the term \"Pride\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to refer to gay advocacy. San Francisco hosted the country's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.glbthistory.org\u002Flabor-of-love\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efirst gay rights march\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and elected the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-us-canada-27532033\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efirst openly gay man\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to public office. The state was the first to legalise domestic partnerships between same-sex couples and consistently ranks as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.outofoffice.com\u002Fblog\u002Fus-lgbt-travel-index\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebest place in the US for LGBTQ+ travellers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2017, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.csustan.edu\u002Ffinancial-support-services-gateway\u002Fstaff-faculty\u002Fbanned-states-assembly-bill-1887\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornia issued a travel ban\u003C\u002Fa\u003E prohibiting state-funded travel to any state \"that discriminates on the basis of sexual orientation, gender identity, or gender expression\". The travel ban initially applied to just five states, but after a wave of anti-LGBTQ+ legislation has swept across the US in the past seven years, it currently covers nearly half of the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow, in an effort to advance some of its other progressive policy goals, California is considering ending its travel ban and replacing it with an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapnews.com\u002Farticle\u002Fcalifornia-travel-ban-republican-states-lgbt-discrimination-d173fbf507db2c019eb336a828dd262a\"\u003Eadvertising campaign\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to promote acceptance and inclusion of LGBTQ+ people in these \"banned\" states. The move is the latest effort in California's long history of promoting acceptance and inclusion for the gay community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut while places like San Francisco and Los Angeles have famously helped establish California as an LGBTQ+ bastion, the state is home to another gay hub that is often overshadowed by these other cities: San Diego.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESan Diego has been a haven for members of the LGBTQ+ communities for decades. In his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Funcpress.org\u002Fbook\u002F9780807871775\u002Fcoming-out-under-fire\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EComing Out Under Fire: The History of Gay Men and Women in World War II\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, historian Allan B&eacute;rub&eacute; explained that the city's role as a major military headquarters inadvertently created a nascent gay scene during the war. Gay and lesbian people who had been isolated in smaller towns across the country where homosexuality was frowned upon were suddenly brought together during the war effort.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGay bars like Bradley's and Blue Jacket in San Diego's Gaslamp District attracted so many people that the city was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsandiegohistory.org\u002Fjournal\u002F2019\u002Fjuly\u002Flgbtq-in-san-diego-a-history-of-persecution-battles-and-triumphs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efeatured in the 1952 book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E USA Confidential about America's \"sin spots\", while clubs like the Seven Seas and Jack's Steam acted as a cruising ground for gay men. Many military veterans later chose to settle in the city and, thanks to the city's culture of tolerance, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sodiego.com\u002Fblog\u002Fthe-history-of-hillcrest\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E135 gay bars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have opened here since the the war ended in 1945.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Moving out here, I fell in love with San Diego,\" said Chris Orban, more commonly known as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@arianagrindr9?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAriana Grindr\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on TikTok. \"I feel like I can be my true self here.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, the hub of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sandiego.org\u002Fplan\u002Flgbtq.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecity's LGBTQ+ community\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is Hillcrest, where a rainbow-lit sign and rainbow flags flapping over indie book shops, cafes and vintage clothing shops remind visitors why the area is dubbed San Diego's \"gayborhood\". Thanks to a mixture of cheap rent, abundant space and its out-of-the-way location, Hillcrest's gay community \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sodiego.com\u002Fblog\u002Fthe-history-of-hillcrest\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebegan congregating here in the late 1960s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The city's first Gay Pride parade was held here in 1975 and today the annual event is one of the largest Prides in the US, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsdpride.org\u002Fparade\u002F#:~:text=The%20annual%20San%20Diego%20Pride,Diego%20Pride%20Parade%20in%20Hillcrest.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eattracting more than 300,000 people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Hillcrest's most popular hangouts is&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgossipgrill.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGossip Grill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is one of&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lesbianbarproject.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eonly 27 lesbian bars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E left in the country. \"We're a safe space for women and the marginalised community. It's the only women's bar in Southern California,\" said owner Moe Girton. \"One thing we've seen recently, there's so much more diversity now and fluidity and people just stepping into their skin. You don't have to fit into a box anymore. Everyone [here] is just who they are and so accepting of everyone.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDown the road and across a rainbow-painted crosswalk, you'll find the&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhillcrestbrewingcompany.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHillcrest Brewing Company\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the world's first gay brewery. When the sun dips down behind the horizon, you can follow the music along University Avenue to dance the night away at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frichssandiego.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERich's\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Hillcrest's most popular gay nightclub, which has been featured on shows like the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills.\u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAny visit to San Diego wouldn't be complete with a visit to the beach. But before hitting the surf, stock up on sweets from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthecandypushers.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECandy Pushers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a colourful, lesbian-owned candy shop serving homemade fudge, specialty chocolates and truffles alongside more than 1,000 varieties of sweets. Then, a few shops away, stop by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.humanitysd.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHUMANITY!\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a novelty shop where you can find the perfect pair of Speedos, though those preferring to swim in their birthday suit should hit \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FBlack's+Beach\u002F@32.8897408,-117.2533218,14z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x80dc068fc8820f2b:0xcea1029b3b92dc8f!8m2!3d32.8906575!4d-117.2534656!16zL20vMDUyeGJ0\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack's Beach\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a clothing-optional beach that's a popular hangout for the gay community.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the city's most iconic and historic hotels is&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lafayettehotelsd.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club &amp; Bungalows\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E, \u003C\u002Fspan\u003Elocated in North Park. It also happens to be a hotspot for local gay men to enjoy a poolside drink. The hotel will reopen in June 2023 after a&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sandiegoville.com\u002F2022\u002F09\u002Fsan-diegos-historic-lafayette-hotel-to-close-for-26-million-dollar-renovation-with-eight-new-bars-and-restaurants.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$26m renovation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and is just one of many \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sandiego.org\u002Fplan\u002Flgbtq\u002Fgay-friendly-hotels.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELGBTQ+-friendly hotels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESan Diego may not be the first city people think of in California when they think of tolerance, but with its mix of year-round warm weather and climate of acceptance, there's nowhere Orban would rather be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel at home [here]. Everyone is so open minded here and I can just be my authentic self without worrying. I don't live in the fear of walking down the street and getting assaulted because I dress the way I dress or have long hair,\" he said. \"Plus, it's gorgeous and I'm obsessed with the beaches and the weather here. Every day is a vacation.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-12T20:43:17Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"San Diego: The US' unsung LGBTQ+ hub","headlineShort":"An underrated LGBTQ+ haven in the US","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"32.715736","longitude":"-117.161087","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"While San Francisco and Los Angeles are renowned for their gay scenes, San Diego has long been one of the US' most tolerant cities.","summaryShort":"The surprising story of how a military city became a gay bastion","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-11T23:49:16.675093Z","entity":"article","guid":"a4405b29-6c0d-4047-b241-e739159833aa","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-13T17:55:51.945457Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220933},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc","_id":"64497839122e041ed2074521","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Dutch outpost to urban playground, Governors Island has had many lives. Now, it's pioneering a zero-waste concept that could show other cities how to develop more sustainably.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere's a moment setting out on the ferry from Manhattan's South Street to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGovernors Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that the receding skyline is all-consuming. Towering skyscrapers of glass, steel and concrete loom above the slate-coloured harbour. Then, just eight minutes later, you arrive at your destination, a 172-acre island a mere 800 yards away from the US' biggest metropolis, and the city slips from your mind.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA 19th-Century red sandstone fort and a sleek outdoor oyster bar welcome you to Governors Island, nodding to its past role as a military stronghold and present incarnation as an urban playground. Once home to the Lenape Native Americans, Governors Island was called Paggank, or \"Nut Island\", owing to its abundance of chestnut, hickory and oak trees. One hundred years later, when \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20191118-whats-left-of-new-yorks-dutch-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Dutch arrived\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, they established the first settlement of their New Amsterdam colony here, making this now-uninhabited harbour island the birthplace of New York City.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Governors Island (which is technically part of Manhattan) might just be New York City's best-kept secret. The leafy oasis is home to seven miles of bike paths; an acre-sized&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grownyc.org\u002Fgardens\u002Fmanhattan\u002Fgovernors-island-teaching-garden\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.grownyc.org\u002Fgardens\u002Fmanhattan\u002Fgovernors-island-teaching-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eurban farm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; sprawling meadows and gardens; slides measuring three storeys tall; autumn pumpkin patches; a winter ice-skating rink; and all manner of picnic spots, playgrounds and art installations. The island is now pioneering an inspiring zero-waste concept that could show other cities how to become more sustainable. This week,&nbsp;Mayor Eric Adams announced that the island would now be the site of a&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2023\u002F04\u002F24\u002Fnyregion\u002Fclimate-hub-governors-island.html\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2023\u002F04\u002F24\u002Fnyregion\u002Fclimate-hub-governors-island.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E$700m \"living laboratory\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;dedicated to finding solutions to address the climate crisis.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The park design and concept really centres [on] sustainability and resiliency,\" said Clare Newman, president and CEO of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fabout\u002Fthe-trust-for-governors-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETrust for Governors Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which manages the island along with the National Park Service.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough Governors Island was originally 72 acres, another 100 were added in the early 1900s using dirt excavated when the city dug the Lexington Avenue subway station in Manhattan, more than doubling its size to the south. In 2007, this largely undeveloped southern part of the island was reimagined as more than just recreational space, with the Trust seeing it as an opportunity \"to demonstrate to the whole city, and hopefully to the world, how we can develop urban environments in a much more sustainable and adaptable way\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis eco-initiative is the latest chapter in Governors Island's fascinating history. The English arrived in New York in 1664, capturing the island from the Dutch. Eleven years after British troops withdrew at the end of the American Revolution in 1783, the New York government started fortifying the harbour by constructing three forts on the Island &ndash; \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fgois\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Ffortjay.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFort Jay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nps.gov\u002Fgois\u002Flearn\u002Fhistoryculture\u002Fcastle-williams.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECastle Williams\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hmdb.org\u002Fm.asp?m=47104\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Battery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; that helped deter a British invasion in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fmagazine-18481542\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe War of 1812\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Under the control of the US government, the island became a military base, a quarantine station for religious refugees, a prison for Confederate soldiers during the US Civil War, an army headquarters through World War Two and finally a Coast Guard base until 1996. The Island was then left largely abandoned for nearly a decade while the federal government debated what to do with the land.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGovernors Island also bore witness to many historic moments. In 1919, Wilbur Wright took off from a landing strip on the southern part of the island on the first American flight over water. Composer Burt Bacharach regularly performed at The Officer's Club on the island in the early 1950s. President Ronald Regan hosted Mikhail Gorbachev in the 19th-Century Admiral's House mansion in 1988. In 2001, the island was designated a National Monument and two years later, it was sold to the city and state of New York for $1. Finally, in 2005, it opened to the public.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe open bucolic space, so close to the dense city, has turned Governors Island into a cultural and recreational destination. Liggett Terrace, just south of what was once the country's largest military building, is now home to a seasonal line-up of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fplan-your-visit\u002Ffood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efood trucks and vendors\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, featuring options from East Asian fried chicken to vegan soul food to pizza. In 2018, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.collectiveretreats.com\u002Fgovernors-island\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECollective Governors Island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E set up 36 private glamping tents with views of the Statue of Liberty. Last year, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.qcny.com\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EQC NY Spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E opened, allowing guests to chill on an infrared bed, in a sauna or steam room, or at the outdoor spa pool with views of helicopters descending into the Financial District and ferries crossing the harbour.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen each of these vendors or businesses open on the island, they commit to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fearthmatter.org\u002Fprojects\u002Fzero-waste-island-initiative\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZero Waste Island initiative\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, signing an agreement that details, among other things, what materials are permitted and not. All food partners are required to use compostable serviceware, for example, which Newman said \"makes a big difference\" towards the island reaching its zero-waste goal.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe not-for-profit organisation Earth Matter NY is the Trust's partner in Zero Waste Island, picking up all organic waste &ndash; including the compostable serviceware and food scraps along with landscape materials from the grounds crews &ndash; and turning it into compost for the island's gardens. Paper, glass, plastic, aluminium and regular rubbish are placed in other bins and processed separately.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We came to the island with the idea of recycling and creating this closed loop,\" explained Earth Matter NY's co-founder and executive director, Marisa DeDominicis. \"Zero Waste Island is really what we're about.\" Last year, Earth Matter NY collected more than 260,000lbs of organic waste &ndash; a 28% annual increase from 2021.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"When we sort, it's sometimes like detective work,\" said Andrea Lieske, Earth Matter NY's Zero Waste Island manager. If they find an excessive amount of regular, non-compostable cups, for example, they'll check what bag they came in, track what area of the island they picked the bag up from and troubleshoot until they can locate the errant cup source. While some visitors inevitably bring cups with them, the majority originate on the island and should therefore be compostable.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to requiring food vendors and other tenants to use compostable materials, the Trust has banned plastic bags and straws and the sale of plastic water bottles on the Island. \"These kinds of things really made a big difference on our end on what we'd see in the organic stream,\" said Lieske.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen not lazing in Governor Island's sun-dappled \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Frecreation\u002Fhammock-grove\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHammock Grove\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or exploring its seasonal \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fpublic-art\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eart installations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visitors can see this zero-waste initiative in action. On the southern part of the island, Earth Matter shares space with a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Frecreation\u002Fgrownycs-teaching-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eteaching garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.govisland.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Frecreation\u002Fbee-sanctuary\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebee sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It's there that staff and volunteers (along with resident chickens) sort the organics and create heaps of steaming compost &ndash; some as large as 8ft high and 100ft long, reaching a temperature of 151F in the natural decomposition process. After about 12 to 15 months, the compost is ready to be distributed in landscape beds and gardens across the island, as well as community gardens in NYC parks.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Governors Island shines as an enlightening example of waste policy, challenges remain. \"The amount of organics is going to continue to climb as the island develops,\" DeDominicis said. Last year was the first time ever the island was open year-round, and it drew 939,000 visitors &ndash; dramatically more than the 600,000 of 2021. The just-announced 400,000 sq ft campus, which is focused on researching climate solutions and called the \"New York Climate Exchange\", is expected to bring thousands of jobs to the island when it opens in 2028.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo meet these future needs, the Trust will work with a waste consultant and focus on closely tracking and controlling what goes off-island to landfill. \"Our goal is to get that percentage as low as humanly possible, and ultimately to zero,\" Newman said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven though the Center for Climate Solutions will increase foot traffic and potentially make it more difficult to control waste, the ultimate benefits are clear.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Newman said, \"All of this is part of the vision: to hopefully have here on the island a really world-class mini-city example of how to achieve much more sustainable and adaptable resilient neighbourhoods.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-27T13:32:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Governors Island: The uninhabited isle that birthed NYC","headlineShort":"The Manhattan island sold for $1","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.68945","longitude":"-74.016792","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From Dutch outpost to urban playground, Governors Island has had many lives. Now, it's pioneering a zero-waste concept that could show other cities how to develop more sustainably.","summaryShort":"It might just be New York City's best-kept secret","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-26T19:14:47.551317Z","entity":"article","guid":"5589403f-7860-473d-b78d-a71be40cd7da","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-27T17:23:04.974533Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220934},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city","_id":"647512a5122e041b1477a388","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flindsey-galloway"],"bodyIntro":"Holidays can be stressful for neurodiverse people, but Mesa, Arizona, is becoming more inclusive so that everyone can enjoy the benefits of travel – not just the neurotypical.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a family holiday in 2018, Marc Garcia was shocked at the strange looks and lack of patience that hospitality staff had for his autistic son. As the CEO and president of tourism bureau Visit Mesa in south-central Arizona, he vowed on his return to ensure neurodiverse travellers who visited his city would have a better experience on their trip than his family had on theirs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn fact, travel can be so stressful for neurodiverse people that \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fibcces.org\u002Fblog\u002F2019\u002F04\u002F04\u002Fspecial-needs-travel-fastest-growing-segment-of-the-market\u002F\"\u003E87% of autistic families don't take vacations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, according to a survey by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fautismtravel.com\u002F\"\u003EAutism Travel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an arm of the International Board of Credentialing and Continuing Education Standards (IBCCES). The sensory overload involved in travel &ndash; including loud noises, dietary changes and a disruption in routine &ndash; can cause discomfort and outbursts if not compassionately managed and addressed. But cities like Mesa are finally putting the training and accessibility tools in place so that everyone can enjoy the benefits of travel &ndash; not just the neurotypical.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs a starting point, Garcia worked to get the entire tourism bureau trained and certified by the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fibcces.org\u002F\"\u003EIBCCES\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which works to provide cognitive disorder training and certification to professionals so they can be better equipped to interact with neurodiverse people across different settings. For businesses like hotels, restaurants and attractions, this means public-facing staff are trained to understand what autism is, how to empathise with how autistic individuals experience the world and potential common sensitivities, and how to communicate more effectively with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2020, one in 36 children were diagnosed with autism in the US, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cdc.gov\u002Fncbddd\u002Fautism\u002Fdata.html\"\u003ECenters for Disease Control\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.who.int\u002Fnews-room\u002Ffact-sheets\u002Fdetail\u002Fautism-spectrum-disorders#:~:text=It%20is%20estimated%20that%20worldwide,figures%20that%20are%20substantially%20higher.\"\u003EWorld Health Organization\u003C\u002Fa\u003E estimates one in 100 children have autism worldwide, a number that keeps increasing year on year, making it the fastest-growing developmental disorder in the world. Along with sharing statistics and education on autism, the IBCCES training also provides practical guidance on ways to better accommodate neurodiverse individuals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq8cym"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For example, some people learn more on a visual level, so we can accommodate them through our destination more visually through brochures, pamphlets, and maps,\" said Zoey Shircel of Visit Mesa, and a certified autism travel professional. She also says that it taught her that some people might need a bit more time to absorb information, like where an attraction is or what there is to do.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Before I got certified I didn't notice people who might have a hidden disability","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe training opened her eyes to how many travellers might struggle with unseen challenges. \"Before I got certified I didn't notice people who might have a hidden disability,\" she said. \"But after learning about the certification, more people are open to talk about what they might need or what extra help we can provide, without being scared or embarrassed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVisit Mesa was the first city in the US to adopt the\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhiddendisabilitiesstore.com\u002F\"\u003E Hidden Disabilities Sunflower\u003C\u002Fa\u003E programme in 2021, first introduced in the UK, with the tourism office and other attractions providing free sunflower-themed lanyards and bracelets to visitors. The sunny symbol alerts hospitality employees and other informed members of the community that this person or family might need some extra assistance or patience navigating a destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq8cwp"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter seeing the success with certification in the tourism bureau, the entire city of Mesa understood the value of becoming more inclusive and set to work on getting the required 80% of public-facing employees &ndash; including parks and recreation employees, police and public safety officers and firefighters &ndash; trained to become an official Certified Autism Center (CAC). In November 2019, the city became the first \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitmesa.com\u002Fautism-travel\u002F\"\u003EAutism-Certified City in the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and other tourism bureaus and cities have started to follow suit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EMany other tourism bureaus and destinations have or are currently working towards being Certified Autism Centres. Here's a few that have or are currently working towards certification:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cul\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EVisalia, California\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EHigh Point, North Carolina\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EDubai, UAE\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EPalm Springs, California\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EToledo, Ohio\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Ful\u003E","calloutTitle":"Autism-Friendly Destinations","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut the certification is far from a one-and-done set of requirements. The programme requires annual training and re-certification to ensure employees stay up to date on the latest neuro-inclusive practices and tools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Mesa, more than 60 different businesses and organisations have completed the training to become CACs. Visitors can see the result of this in places like the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arizonamuseumofnaturalhistory.org\u002F\"\u003EArizona Museum of Natural History\u003C\u002Fa\u003E which provides a helpful guide of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arizonamuseumofnaturalhistory.org\u002Fplan-a-visit\u002Faccessibility\u002Fsensory-guides\"\u003Esensory impact of different galleries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which can be accessed either online or viewed in each gallery entrance. For example, the guide ranks Dinosaur Hall a five out of 10 for sound sensory stimulation, a three for sight, a two for touch and only a one for smell and taste. Guides like this help families plan the right routes through the museum, as well as find designated quiet areas if overstimulation becomes an issue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Museums are special places where people come to learn, relax and make memories with friends and family,\" said Alison Stoltman, deputy director at the museum. \"However, highly stimulating atmospheres can be a barrier to some, limiting accessibility.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo help, the museum recently held its first \"sensory gentle\" event, where the museum opened early with limited tickets and more stimulating experiences were toned down. \"We had great feedback with numerous accounts from families that this gentle experience opened up the possibility for their family to visit,\" Stoltman said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq8cwm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Jennifer Hedgepeth, event services coordinator at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mesaartscenter.com\u002F\"\u003EMesa Arts Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the training she received was particularly personal since she has a child on the autism spectrum. \"A lot of the training aspects were things I already knew, but it was nice to learn about some of those things more in depth,\" she said. \"It's also really neat to know all of my co-workers and the City of Mesa receive the same training.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThough the shows performed at the Mesa Arts Center can vary in sensory stimulation, the Center provides accommodations like weighted blankets and noise-cancelling headphones that can help during a performance, as well as low-sensory quiet spaces in case someone needs some time out.&nbsp; \u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If people are coming to your space, they should feel they can do it comfortably and safely","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If you travel to a foreign country and you don't speak the language, knowing that you have access to someone like an interpreter can help you get through your experience in a better way,\" said Hedgepeth. \"This is really on that same level. If people are coming to your space, they should feel they can do it comfortably and safely.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMesa is one of the country's biggest spring training centres for Major League Baseball, and a number of baseball teams and their stadiums in Mesa have also become certified. Because of its outdoor environment, reliable pace and trackable statistics, baseball can offer an inviting pastime for those on the spectrum &ndash; but stadiums and live games can still sometimes be overly stimulating. To advocate for these fans, the Oakland A's became \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mlb.com\u002Fpress-release\u002Foakland-a-s-become-first-mlb-team-to-earn-certified-autism-centertm-designation\"\u003Ethe first team to become CAC certified\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2020 by training their staff at Hohokam Stadium, the team's spring home in Mesa, where fans can watch games from late February to late March before the start of the regular season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq8cwk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMesa also serves as a gateway to the outdoors, as it neighbours the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fs.usda.gov\u002Ftonto\"\u003ETonto National Forest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Within city limits, the Mesa Parks &amp; Recreation District (also a certified CAC) provides a number of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mesaparks.com\u002Fparks-facilities\u002Fpark-rangers\"\u003Eaccessible outdoor activities\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, from \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanc.apm.activecommunities.com\u002Fmesaaz\u002Factivity\u002Fsearch\u002Fdetail\u002F60090?onlineSiteId=0&amp;from_original_cui=true&amp;locale=en-US\"\u003Elow-stakes\" camping\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (where rangers provide a tent and teach camping skills for an easy overnight stay), to scorpion walks, fishing training and a campfire s'mores-making workshop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo provide a way to interact with autistic-friendly attractions and restaurants throughout the city, Visit Mesa has put together the family-friendly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitmesa.com\u002Fblog\u002Fgeocaching-in-city-limitless\u002F\"\u003EAutism GeoTour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which lets visitors uncover hidden geocaches in CAC locations via the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.geocaching.com\u002Fplay\u002Fmobile\"\u003EGeocaching app\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. If visitors unlock five or more on the tour, they can return to the Mesa Visitor Center for a special prize.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven though it's made huge strides in accessibility, Mesa isn't ready to slow down anytime soon, setting a goal to become the most accessible city in the country. To that end, Mesa recently partnered with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Faira.io\u002F\"\u003EAira\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an on-demand visual interpretation service for those who are blind or low vision. The app lets visitors access a trained agent who can help with trip planning, reading menus and other services. In 2023, Mesa joined up with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwheeltheworld.com\u002Faccessible-dmo\u002Fusa\u002Farizona\u002Faccessiblemesa\"\u003EWheel the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a website that maps detailed accessibility information of destinations with both photos and measurements (for example, seeing if a hotel has ramps in its entrance spaces), so disabled visitors can more easily plan their trip and find hotels most suitable for their needs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"If you have the information beforehand, it makes travelling just a little less stressful,\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"If you have the information beforehand, it makes travelling just a little less stressful,\" said Shircel. She hopes that every city in the world eventually follows Mesa's achievable example. That way, travellers of all types can more fully enjoy any destination, and enrich cross-cultural conversation in new, neuro-inclusive ways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-30T10:00:41Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Mesa: The US' first autism-friendly city","headlineShort":"The first autism-friendly US city","image":["p0fq8dpv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"33.4152","longitude":"-111.8315","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fq8cym"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220905-the-watery-secret-of-ancient-north-america","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230411-san-diego-the-us-unsung-lgbtq-hub","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230426-governors-island-the-uninhabited-isle-that-birthed-nyc"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Holidays can be stressful for neurodiverse people, but Mesa, Arizona, is becoming more inclusive so that everyone can enjoy the benefits of travel – not just the neurotypical.","summaryShort":"Everyone should be able to enjoy travel – not just the neurotypical","tag":["tag\u002Fcity"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-29T21:01:09.093183Z","entity":"article","guid":"cb1bb72d-733c-45e6-b0fe-a1a99a8d6b4b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-30T09:58:26.34087Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-mesa-the-us-first-autism-friendly-city","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Farizona","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_arizona_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220932},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs","_id":"64678423122e041ed131ca2f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"These flaky fried pastries, a staple snack in Malaysia and Singapore, are filled with curried potatoes, onions, peas and corn.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGrowing up in Malaysia, Seleste Tan remembers strolling past street vendors after school and using whatever leftover pocket money she had to buy a snack. \"Those are the days that we always had a curry puff in hand while walking home,\" Tan said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EYears later, memories of those compact deep-fried stuffed pastries have made their way to New York City, where Tan and her husband Mogan Anthony, both pastry chefs by training, run a Southeast Asian-themed patisserie and \u003Cem\u003Ekuih \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(cake) shop called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fladywong.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELady Wong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Tan and Anthony both grew up in Malaysia but worked in Singapore before moving to New York City, where they have been since 2006.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Curry Puffs recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe couple said curry puffs were the first thing they thought of when they were thinking of a savoury item to sell at Lady Wong &ndash; a testament to how ubiquitous and famous the snack is in Malaysia and Singapore. It was a good decision: the puffs usually sell out by 14:00-15:00.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnthony remembers his time working at a Hilton hotel in Singapore in his early-20s because of the smell of curry puffs. \"Right in front of the Hilton hotel, there's a small stand, right? Every time you walk past it, you can smell the fried oil like a mile away,\" he said. \"That smell brings me back [there] no matter what\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe also grew up eating curry puffs. His dad would sometimes bring them home as a teatime snack, or his mom would make a fresh batch for the family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Curry puffs are so Southeast Asian and remind you of childhood since you could buy them from the cafeteria, night markets, grocery shops, street vendors, restaurant or even at hotels,\" he said. \"It's cheap to make, satisfies our soul, and the ingredients are available year-round.\" The recipe, he added, is \"no fuss\" with \"no special techniques needed.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMany would say curry puffs are similar to Southern European and Latin American empanadas, South Asian samosas and British pasties. In fact, the curry puff is said to be \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Feresources.nlb.gov.sg\u002Finfopedia\u002Farticles\u002FSIP_1805_2011-03-30.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einfluenced by all three\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through trade and colonisation over many centuries. It started with Portuguese traders, who came to places like Malacca in the 16th Century and introduced the \u003Cem\u003Eempada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a stuffed pie. When the British colonised Malaya, the empada evolved to resemble more of a Cornish pasty, made with a variety of spices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven today in Malaysia and Singapore, there is no one fixed way of making curry puffs. There are versions with a flaky Danish pastry-like crust, ones with a thin crust and others with a buttery, thicker crust. The fillings differ too; you can use sardines, chicken or just potatoes and hard-boiled eggs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnthony and Tan decided to use his mum's recipe to make the Lady Wong version. He said it's spicier than Chinese-style curry puffs since it uses more curry powder. While not a must, he recommends using Malaysian curry powder because it has a different ratio of chilli powder to spices compared to other ones from South Asia. Plus, because the potatoes are cooked in a \u003Cem\u003Erempah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spice paste), the flavour of the spices are more concentrated, and the filling has more bite compared to versions where the potatoes are steamed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe couple sells vegetarian curry puffs because the meat option wasn't as popular with customers when they first opened. They also made the puffs with kale at one point &ndash; \"a very New York [thing]\" &ndash; before reverting to the traditional recipe because they felt the kale left too grassy a note, and customers were asking for the classic version.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECurry puffs, Anthony said, are a good introduction to Malaysian and Singaporean food for New Yorkers. \"They see this as a sort of empanada or samosa,\" he said. \"They have some sort of a reference point.\" Whereas for Southeast Asians, curry puffs are tasty reminder of home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThanks to places like Lady Wong, Malaysian and Singaporean food have been making their mark in the Big Apple in recent years. Unlike in the past when Asian food was Americanised to cater to the local palate, the likes of Lady Wong have mostly stuck to original flavours. The bet paid off &ndash; just about six months after opening their East Village store in 2022, the business launched an outpost in the Singapore food-themed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.urbanhawker.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUrban Hawker food court\u003C\u002Fa\u003E near Times Square.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's exciting that Southeast Asian flavours have exploded in recent years. We are so happy that this is becoming a norm now,\" Tan said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Curry Puffs recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECurry Puffs recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Seleste Tan and Mogan Anthony\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 20 to 22 curry puffs\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the filling:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 tsp canola oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E150g (5oz) boneless skinless chicken thighs, finely chopped (optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g (just over 1lb) potatoes, peeled and diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 yellow onion, diced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 tsp curry powder (preferably Malaysian curry powder)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 bay leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup frozen peas, thawed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup frozen corn, thawed\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the wrappers*\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E500g (17.6 oz) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E⅓ cup canola oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac14; cups water, room temperature\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E*You can also use store-bought empanada dough or puff pastry, thawed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor frying:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E4 cups vegetable oil\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the filling. In a large pan set over medium heat, heat the canola oil. Fry your chicken, if using, until mostly cooked. Add the potatoes and onion, followed by the curry powder, bay leaves, salt and &frac12; cup of water. Cover and let the mixture cook until the potatoes are tender, 45 to 55 minutes, until you can poke through them with a fork. Season to taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETransfer the filling to a bowl and let it cool completely. Fold in the frozen peas and corn. Discard the bay leaves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the wrappers. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the flour and salt. Make a well in the middle. Add the oil and slowly bring the dough together. Add the water slowly and mix everything together with your hands, kneading it together. You should form a very well-oiled ball of dough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EOn a floured surface, roll your dough into a tube about 20-30cm (8-12in) long. Slice the tube of dough into 20 to 22 pieces, depending on how large you like your curry puff. Roll each piece into a ball. Then with a rolling pin, roll each ball flat into a 10-13cm (4-5in) round wrapper. Cover the dough with a damp cloth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFill each wrapper with 1-2 tbsp of the filling. Fold the wrapper over the filling. Pinch the edges together until completely sealed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFill a large pot with the 4 cups of vegetable oil and set it over medium heat. Check the oil for bubbles. You can drop a small pinch of dough to see if its bubbles, which indicates the oil is hot, about 175C\u002F350F.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EUsing a slotted spoon, carefully place three to four curry puffs into the hot oil. Fry on each side for two minutes or until golden brown. Remove from hot oil and transfer to a paper-lined plate to cool; repeat with the remaining puffs. Eat while they are warm. You can also make them ahead and reheat them later in an air-fryer at 175-190C\u002F350-375F for 3-5 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"loopstyle_link\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"loopstyle_link\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"loopstyle_link\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"loopstyle_link\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"loopstyle_link\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-20T14:12:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Southeast Asia's spicy and flaky curry puffs","headlineShort":"Southeast Asia's ubiquitous curry puffs","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.7447278","longitude":"-74.0049528","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"These flaky fried pastries, a staple snack in Malaysia and Singapore, are filled with curried potatoes, onions, peas and corn.","summaryShort":"They are no-fuss, cheap and soul-satisfying","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-19T14:13:39.131987Z","entity":"article","guid":"efab14aa-dbe5-4e1a-b62f-606e7fba53d6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-19T14:14:07.424603Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220934},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us","_id":"64653fd6122e041b11101a1c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fanna-sulan-masing"],"bodyIntro":"As Americans debate the merits of British Chinese food on TikTok, UK chefs tell a nuanced story of an ever-evolving cuisine that's rooted in adaptability and ingenuity.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBritish Chinese food, and more specifically Chinese takeaway food, has recently become a focal point on TikTok among Americans with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002Ftag\u002Fbritishchinesefood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E#britishchinesefood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E amassing 36.9 million views, spurring a flurry of controversy and debate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne TikToker, American Asian Soogia, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@soogia1\u002Fvideo\u002F7228265964238933291\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eexpressed confusion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over the meals that British people were sharing on the social media platform, as they little resembled the Chinese cuisine (including American Chinese dishes) she's familiar with. The conversation quickly descended into a general smearing of British Chinese takeaway food, with \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tiktok.com\u002F@stayathomenojob\u002Fvideo\u002F7228069371166428458\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eanother TikToker\u003C\u002Fa\u003E asking, \"Are the British eating out of a dumpster?\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat seems to be getting these Americans in a tizzy are the meals consisting almost entirely of fried food with the inclusion of chips and curry sauce, two traditionally non-Chinese food staples in the UK. But what's missing from the debate (aside from the fact that American Chinese food is itself an immigrant cuisine \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mentalfloss.com\u002Farticle\u002F654741\u002Famerican-chinese-food-history\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eadapted to suit local tastes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) is the nuance of British Chinese cuisine and its history, effectively side-lining the ingenuity of immigrant Chinese cooks who have adapted their dishes to meet a British palate. And although menu items &ndash; like curry sauce or chicken balls or sweet and sour chicken &ndash; might appear similar from one shop to the next, each takeaway shop has its own recipes that reflect the tastes of its local neighbourhood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis begs the question, what is British Chinese food?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's impossible to understand Chinese food &ndash; as well as many food cultures &ndash; in Britain without the context of colonialism. Hong Kong and the New Territories were the last colonial outpost of the British Empire (from 1841 to 1997) and became part of an established trading route, meaning many European shipping companies would hire Southern Chinese men as sailors who then travelled and migrated to the UK. Although citizenship or access to full rights weren't granted to these sailors (or future generations of Chinese migrants), many of them, who were often poor and in search of better lives, set up home in Britain. As a means of survival, to feed the growing Chinese communities and the sailors passing through, they started casual noodle shops; this reached a peak between World War One and Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the mid-1900s, due to changes in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblogs.ed.ac.uk\u002Fs2227564_tpg-studio-2021-2022sem1\u002F2022\u002F04\u002F03\u002Fhistory-of-chinese-immigration-to-the-united-kingdom\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUK immigration laws\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that allowed for greater migration to fulfil a post-war need for labour, there was a Chinese \"restaurant boom\". Between 1957 and 1964, the number of food establishments doubled, with many catering to non-Chinese palates.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxhhp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn his 1975 book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abebooks.com\u002F9780520026476\u002FEmigration-Chinese-Lineage-Mans-Hong-0520026470\u002Fplp\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEmigration and the Chinese Lineage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, James L Watson, Professor of Chinese Society (emeritus) at Harvard University, wrote: \"In 1965, five Chinese restaurants opened in rapid succession in an obscure street in London's West End\", and thus London's (new) Chinatown (previously in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpoplarlondon.co.uk\u002Flimehouse-chinatown-history\u002F#:~:text=Limehouse%20was%20London's%20first%20Chinatown%20between%20the%201880s%20and%20the,of%20immigrants%20from%20Hong%20Kong.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELimehouse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in East London) was born on Gerrard Street. Watson noted that these new restaurants and takeaways were categorised by the community as those for Chinese customers and those for Westerners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bl.uk\u002Flearning\u002Ftimeline\u002Fitem107673.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritish Library\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, even in the 1950s, Chinese restaurants adapted to this new clientele with \"buttered bread, pies and chips alongside Chinese dishes\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"[It's] food that is influenced from one culture to the other, whichever way round you see it – from British to Chinese or Chinese to British.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor Jeremy Pang, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.co.uk\u002FJeremy-Pangs-School-Wok-Pang-ebook\u002Fdp\u002FB097XX66M3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecookbook author\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and founder of London-based \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fschoolofwok.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESchool of Wok\u003C\u002Fa\u003E cookery school, British Chinese food is a result of a culture exchange. \"[It's] food that is influenced from one culture to the other, whichever way round you see it &ndash; from British to Chinese or Chinese to British,\" he said. \"There are so many different dishes and recipes out there that have had influence from each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor many British-born Chinese, who grew up with both traditional Chinese food and the new adapted dishes, there's a time and place to enjoy it all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxj1l"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnna Chan, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fasianleadership.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsian Leadership Collective\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, grew up as a self-proclaimed \"British Chinese takeaway kid\" and believes that the Chinese takeaway meal is quintessential to the definition of British Chinese food: \"I remember the food from behind the counter. It's food that is adaptable, agile to the tastes and trends of the local palate.\" She says she craves crinkle cut chips and her dad's curry sauce, and will always ask for egg noodles with beansprouts, king prawns and onions &ndash; the curry sauce to be poured on top. However, the food Chan ate at home was different to what was served in the shop, which was more traditional Cantonese and Hakka food.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJohn Li, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fdumplingshack\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDumpling Shack group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London, spent his teenage years working at his parents' Chinese restaurant in Caterham. \"At 17:30, we would have a family dinner of Cantonese and Hakka home cooking &ndash; very 'wholesome cooking',\" he said. But he revered the fusion dishes his parents were cooking for customers.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There is a reason why this [British] Chinese food is still one of the most popular foods in the UK. The flavour profile is what people look for in comfort food,\" he said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELi still craves Chinese takeaway food, and his partner Yee, who is also a Chinese takeaway kid, says her \"four combo order\" is shredded chilli beef, Singapore fried noodles, one spring roll and sweet and sour chicken &ndash; all classic Chinese takeaway dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxh88"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Chinese takeaway shops have also always been a special place for local communities of non-Chinese Brits, of all backgrounds. In \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hachette.co.uk\u002Ftitles\u002Fangela-hui\u002Ftakeaway\u002F9781398705548\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETakeaway: stories from a childhood behind the counter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Angela Hui tells her story of how the rural Wales takeaway shop she grew up in served as a gathering hub for locals. These takeaway shops were integral to communities, and many people have very fond memories of the place and the food.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the majority of British people, Chinese food from their local takeaway comes with a sense of nostalgia. But with this nostalgia comes the danger of \"museum-ifying\" it, explained Jenny Lau, a writer who founded the platform \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.celestialpeach.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECelestial Peach\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that investigates East and South East Asian identity and community, primarily through food. By this, she means that without fully appreciating the evolution of the food and how each generation tweaks recipes, it can be seen as static, like an artefact within British culture. It can also limit our understanding of what it means to be Chinese in Britain, relegating the identity of Chinese people to the foods of takeaways.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, Maria Lo, who runs a supper club in the coastal region of Hastings called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthedumplingden_hastings\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDumpling Den\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, remembers as a child being asked by a fellow kid if she ate Bang Bang Chicken every day. \"I had no idea what she was talking about,\" Lo said. Lo sees her work now as establishing a wider sense of Chinese-ness in her community, so that her son is understood and can find connections to his heritage in multiple ways and with many reference points.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is this idea of diversity in Chinese culture and heritage that makes British Chinese food especially exciting now.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxhv4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe vastness of what British Chinese food is, and can be, in the UK is rapidly expanding. Jason Li, an ex-restaurant manager who currently runs a London-based Shanghainese supper club called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fjason888li\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDreams of Shanghai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, arrived in the UK in 1993 and has seen an evolution in the type of Chinese cuisine on offer over the past few decades. \"It used to be 99% Cantonese food, and then 10 years ago, we saw a rise in Sichuan food,\" he said. \"Now, there are a lot different cuisines, catering to new Chinese migrants such as students.\" Additionally, a wide range of people come to his supper club, often with some connection to China and wide knowledge of the cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFurthermore, new British Chinese cooks are developing their own style, incorporating their own identities and other influences. Although of Hakka and Cantonese heritage, John Li takes a lot of inspiration from Sichuan flavours (John and Yee's new restaurant is called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsichuanfry.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan Fry\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and specialises in fried chicken burgers). \"We take inspiration from the food we love, which is what Chinese takeaways did,\" said John Li. \"On the menu of Chinese takeaways, you'll see nods to all different regions of China and Asia.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELo's Dumpling Den has been hosting pop ups in a natural wine shop, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcollected.fictions\u002F?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECollected Fictions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in St Leonards-on-Sea, a seaside town in the Borough of Hastings that she feels is taking the lead of previous generations, combining her Cantonese heritage with her British location. \"What I am doing now is British Chinese food. I'm influenced by my upbring in a Cantonese household in North London; I lived in Barcelona, Soho in London, and now Hastings; I use locally grown and sourced ingredients,\" she said. Lo also says she wants to bring her food to people's comfort zones, like to a wine bar, so they can be open to try new things.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxhp1"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELooking forward, Lau wants to see much more regional Chinese food being showcased, including from places outside of China, such as from Indo-Chinese, Mauritius Chinese and Thai Chinese restaurants and cooks. And she suggests we should look at British Chinese food as another regional Chinese cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe adaptation of Chinese food to the place that Chinese communities are situated seems to be an age-old tradition, a creative thread through the food culture. As Pang says, \"Adaptability is at the core of our Chinese culture.\" He is amazed at the variety there is now available, from Michelin-starred \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.awong.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA. Wong\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London to what he refers to as \"specialist hand-pulled and knife-cut noodle shops hidden behind bright orange sweet &amp; sour chicken ball &amp; fried rice buffets at places like Lanzhou Noodle Bar in Leicester Square [33 Cranbourn Street]\", where he is \"immediately teleported into a Hong Kong diner\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhat seems to be missing from the social media conversations is the people behind the food. All these dishes that are clearly loved by many are, and always have been, created by people &ndash; and are most often about family.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"What I look back and miss the most about growing up around our restaurant is how close it made the family,\" said Li. \"As I get older, I realise how much it meant to be able to work with my parents and siblings in our family business.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxk24"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPeking Mandarin Pork\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Jeremy Pang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 2\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDeep-fried meats don't have to be just crispy. If you know what you're doing, you can use the cooking technique to create a range of textures. In this dish, the sparse use of cornflour creates a crisped edge around each piece of pork, at the same time allowing it to soak up plenty of the sticky sweet and sour sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the marinated pork:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 pork chops or pork shoulder steaks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine (can substitute dry sherry)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp sesame oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp Chinese five spice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 tbsp corn flour\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor the sauce:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E100ml (3&frac12;oz) chicken stock\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E100ml (3&frac12;oz) fresh orange juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp rice vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp plum sauce (can substitute ketchup)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp light soy sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tbsp orange marmalade\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp dark soy sauce\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETo finish the dish:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 spring onion, cut into 2cm (&frac34;in) chunks\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 star anise\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 small cinnamon stick\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Evegetable oil, for deep-frying\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ehandful of coriander leaves, to garnish\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECarefully using the back of a knife or cleaver, bash the pork chops or steaks to tenderise the meat, then cut into 3-4cm (1&frac14;-1&frac12; in) pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Massage the remaining marinade ingredients into the pork, taking care to add in the corn flour at the very end; mix well.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMix the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a wok, build your \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lakeland.co.uk\u002Finspiration\u002Fjeremy-pang-chinese-unchopped\u002F\"\u003Ewok clock\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (mise en place): Start by placing the marinated pork at 12 o'clock , followed by the ginger, garlic and spring onion, star anise and cinnamon stick, and lastly the bowl of sauce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EHalf-fill (no more) your wok with vegetable oil and heat to 180C (350F). Test the temperature of your oil by placing the tip of a wooden implement, such as a skewer or wooden chopstick, into the oil. If the wood starts to fizz after a second or so, the oil has reached this temperature. Carefully add half the pork and deep-fry for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Transfer the pork to a plate lined with kitchen paper. Repeat to fry the remaining pork and transfer to the plate lined with kitchen paper. If using your wok for deep-frying, very carefully pour the hot oil into a heatproof bowl to cool and give your wok a quick wipe with kitchen paper.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace the wok back on the hob and heat &frac12; tbsp of vegetable oil until smoking hot. Add the ginger, garlic and spring onion to the wok and stir-fry for 30&ndash;60 seconds before adding the star anise and cinnamon stick. Add the sauce to the wok and bring to a vigorous boil. Once bubbling rapidly, add the fried pieces of pork into the sauce and vigorously boil for a further 1-2 minutes. Garnish with coriander and serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnxv9b"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-18T10:03:14Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why has British Chinese food shocked the US?","headlineShort":"UK chefs defend their Chinese food","image":["p0fnxh2j"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fnxh2j"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As Americans debate the merits of British Chinese food on TikTok, UK chefs tell a nuanced story of an ever-evolving cuisine that's rooted in adaptability and ingenuity.","summaryShort":"Why the addition of chips and curry sauce are getting Americans in a tizzy","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-17T20:57:41.565948Z","entity":"article","guid":"b13442da-a003-4fea-9e1f-e03be473d172","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-19T02:23:21.199785Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220940,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger","_id":"64596b9e122e041ea6026223","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fmatt-jenkins"],"bodyIntro":"The Chinese pork-and-flatbread sandwich known as roujiamo has been called \"the world's oldest hamburger\". Like much in China, its precise origins are shrouded in the mists of time.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy first encounter with \u003Cem\u003Eroujiamo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (肉夹馍) was on an early winter's day a quarter of a century ago, in a bitterly cold, wind-scoured Beijing alleyway. There, I stumbled across a weather-beaten itinerant vendor, braced against the chill in a thick padded-cotton jacket and fur hat, making roujiamo to order off the back of a three-wheeled bicycle cart. From a bubbling, soot-black cauldron suspended over a blazing puck of coal, he ladled out long-braised morsels of pork and plunked them onto a tree-stump chopping block. Next, he used a cleaver to mince the pork together with what seemed like an entire fist's-worth of coriander, added a dollop of rich broth from the pot, and wielded the cleaver once more to deftly slice open a crisp, hand-sized freshly baked flatbread and nestle the glistening pile of meat inside.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen he handed it over, wrapped in a plastic bag, it was so hot that it scalded my fingers. I gingerly peeled back the edges of the bag and took a bite. In the fading light of that winter afternoon, roujiamo &ndash; the crunch of the bun, the meltingly tender pork with its scalding burst of juice and the bracing tang of coriander &ndash; was a revelation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoujiamo at its best is a primal thing. Cooked and sold in the elements, it's a street food that comes wreathed in an aura of ancient dynasties, the Silk Road and far-off desert frontiers. The sandwich is closely associated with the north-central city of Xi'an in Shaanxi province. Since 202 BCE, Xi'an has been both the eastern terminus of the Silk Road and the capital for 13 more-or-less successive Chinese dynasties.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe meat preparation used to make the filling for roujiamo is traditionally traced back to the Warring States period (475 to 221 BCE). The introduction into China of Central Asian-style flatbreads, like the kind used in roujiamo, is often credited to Ban Chao, a Chinese general who spent more than 30 years battling a confederation of nomadic tribes during the 1st Century to regain control of the farthest western reaches of China.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEvery family has its own roujiamo recipe, but there are some constants. First comes the \u003Cem\u003Elazhi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (腊汁), or stock, which includes a list of spices that reads like the cargo manifest for a Silk Road caravan: ginger, star anise, cassia, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan peppercorn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, loquat and two medicinal herbs called Fructus Amomi and Lanxangia tsaoko (all originally domesticated in China); dried tangerine peel (likely domesticated in the Indo-Burma region); white pepper, sand ginger and cardamom (from South India); cumin (from Western Asia); and nutmeg and clove (from the Spice Islands of Indonesia), to name just the most common ones. A special premium is placed on \"aged\" stock (陈年老汁) &ndash; the most legendary examples of which are purported to have been lovingly tended to and bubbling away for decades, if not centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl4br4"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce the stock is made, thick slices of pork belly take their turn in the pot, simmering for hours. The flatbread bun, called \u003Cem\u003Ebaijimo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (白吉馍), takes its name from what is today known as Beiji township. Sitting some 130km northwest of Xi'an, the town was once a horse-resupply post along China's equivalent of the Pony Express system, which ran far west to the most distant reaches of the empire. Baijimo was traditionally made by sticking partially leavened dough against the wall of a wood-fired, Central Asian-style oven. Today, in a modern nod to simplicity and expedience, it's often cooked to blazing-hot crispness in a pan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESadly, thanks to rapidly rising standards of living and government regulation, the more rustic styles of roujiamo have largely been chased out of the alleyways of Chinese cities. But roujiamo is still much-loved in China, and it's in little danger of disappearing. Its enduring popularity has spawned numerous nationwide chains such as \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.zwlzj.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZhang Family Ziwu Road Roujiamo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (子午路张记肉夹馍) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bingz.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBingz Crispy Burger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (西少爷). And even in bustling southern Chinese cities like Shenzhen, it's often possible to find a roujiamo vendor somewhere deep within the local food courts, albeit with the pork simmering away in an electric slow cooker rather than over an open fire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo be sure, roujiamo is far from the perfect food. Despite its comparison to a hamburger, it's notoriously hazardous to eat on the go. Proper roujiamo is filled to bursting, regardless of the potential consequences for one's clothes and dry-cleaning budget. (Wrapping it in a plastic bag helps, but only so much.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl4bsp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"You have to use both hands to eat roujiamou; otherwise, the filling's just going to launch out from both sides of the bun,\" said Beijing-based film director Chen Xiaoqing. \"It doesn't really work to walk around and eat roujiamou at the same time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChen has spent the better part of the past several decades mapping China's culinary landscape in a series of wildly popular food documentaries, including Netflix's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.netflix.com\u002Ftitle\u002F80991060\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlavorful Origins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. While the style of roujiamo people are most familiar with is associated with Xi'an, he says, there's actually a range of styles, distinctly different from each other.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis own favourite is \u003Cem\u003ETongguan roujiamo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (潼关肉夹馍), named after a garrison town that, in days long past, guarded a strategic pass roughly 120km east of Xi'an. The flatbread used for Tongguan roujiamo is unlike that used in the Xi'an style. With less leavening, it has coils densely folded together like a snake charmer's basket; crisp and flaky, the bread shatters into the pork with every bite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl4c71"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The surface is really rough and uneven, so when you pick it up, it just feels good in your hands,\" Chen said. \"It takes real heart to make it right &ndash; but when that happens, it makes me dizzy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOther commonly seen styles include one with a filling of \u003Cem\u003Ela niurou \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(腊牛肉), a close cousin of corned beef that's associated with Xi'an's substantial Muslim population. The city of Qishan, about 120km west of Xi'an, has its own version made with minced pork and red chillies. And over the past few years, a variation called \u003Cem\u003Eduijia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (对夹), from Chifeng in far-off Inner Mongolia has taken China by storm: it features a bun made from millet flour and a crisp, smoked pork filling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoujiamo has made its way abroad, too. Chen says his production team, en route to watch Chelsea football team play in London, happily stumbled upon a restaurant called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fxianimpression.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Impression\u003C\u002Fa\u003E selling roujiamo directly across from Emirates Stadium. Bingz Crispy Burger has opened locations in Singapore and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bingzcanada.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECanada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. And in New York, Xi'an natives David Shi and his son Jason Wang have turned a basement stall in a Flushing shopping centre into a local empire called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.xianfoods.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Famous Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which now boasts a dozen locations. Wang says there was never any doubt that roujiamo would feature prominently on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl4b94"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's such a classic dish of Xi'an,\" he said. \"It'd be like saying we're going to open an American brunch restaurant, but without any bacon.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERoujiamo has room for experimentation and innovation. Seitan roujiamo, made from wheat gluten, has made occasional appearances on the specials board at Xi'an Famous Foods. And even in Xi'an itself, it's possible to find a mash-up of roujiamo and the Sichuan stalwart \u003Cem\u003Emalatang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (麻辣烫), or hot spicy soup. In \u003Cem\u003Emalatang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eroujiamo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,a traditional roujiamo bun is stuffed chock full of sinuous ribbons of tofu skin, sliced potatoes and thick slices of seaweed, all bathed in an incendiary dose of chilli oil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor all that, though, roujiamo has proven stubbornly resistant to high-concept reinvention, and the best versions don't stray too far from the classic, rough-around-the-edges approach. McDonald's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fradii.co\u002Farticle\u002Fmcdonalds-roujiamo\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elearned this the hard way in 2021\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when the company finally decided to try its own hand at \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinadaily.com.cn\u002Ffood\u002F2015-04\u002F11\u002Fcontent_20408669.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe world's oldest hamburger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\". Roujiamo appeared on the breakfast menu for a 24-day limited run to mark Chinese New Year &ndash; and promptly earned scads of angry hashtags for, bafflingly, being made with chicken (served in criminally meagre portions, to boot). Roujiamo has not appeared on the menu since.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl4cw3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo where is roujiamo headed next? When we talked, Chen mentioned that he'd heard from a famous restaurateur in China who is working to develop a roujiamo that people can more easily eat while they walk. Then he laughed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I feel like if you try to eat a good roujiamou while you're walking down the street, it's just kind of an insult to it &ndash; a sort of disrespect,\" he said. Chen paused for a second, as if lost in a happy memory. \"To really do it justice, you need to sit very still, close both eyes and savour every bite.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-09T10:36:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Roujiamo: China's 2,200-year-old 'burger'","headlineShort":"The burger McDonald's got wrong","image":["p0fl4ch3"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.2595538","longitude":"108.8024017","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fl4ch3"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The Chinese pork-and-flatbread sandwich known as roujiamo has been called \"the world's oldest hamburger\". Like much in China, its precise origins are shrouded in the mists of time.","summaryShort":"Its flatbread bun dates to the 1st Century","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-08T21:37:17.756938Z","entity":"article","guid":"5732df44-9bf3-47df-a1de-c80bd83cad91","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-12T23:40:34.195707Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220958,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fxian","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fchina"],"destinationStat":"asia_china_xian_asia_china"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons","_id":"647513c6122e041b1925e561","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fshayna-conde"],"bodyIntro":"These juicy wontons are filled with pork mince, prawns and celery, and served in a light broth fragrant with sesame and soy.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFrom meaty to veggie, fried to boiled, traditionally flavoured to globally inspired, there's a wonton to suit most palates. Wontons, unlike dumplings, tend to be made with a thin, square wrapper and served in soups. While eaten all over China, they are more popular in the southern part of the country, including Shanghai.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChef Kathy Fang is an expert on how to infuse a wonton with Shanghainese flavours. Fang grew up in the kitchen of her family's much lauded San Francisco restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.houseofnankingsf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHouse of Nanking\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She opened \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fangrestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant in 2009 with her father, Peter, with whom she appears in a docuseries called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fshows\u002Fchef-dynasty-house-of-fang\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChef Dynasty: House of Fang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Fang is also a two-time champion on Food Network's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fshows\u002Fchopped\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChopped\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Shanghai Wontons with Prawns, Pork and Celery recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWontons are a staple in Shanghainese families, usually made monthly and in bulk. In Fang's busy family, it wasn't often that she and her parents got to spend quality time together. But once a month, after they finished the late shift at the restaurant, everyone in her family would gather at home, stay up far past bedtime and make wontons together from scratch. They would boil the wontons, eat them around the table and wrap more to freeze for future use.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWontons filled with pork mince was a standby for the family. But Fang has riffed on the traditional recipe to create juicy bites filled with pork mince as well as prawns and celery, served in a light broth fragrant with sesame and soy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This version in particular is a favourite of mine,\" said Fang, \"because the celery adds a nice fresh crunch. It also releases liquid, which makes the filling more juicy. You can't get any healthier than celery; zero calorie, full of fibre. I like to add prawns to lighten up the filling a bit.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFang explained that there are three things that distinguish Shanghai wontons from their regional siblings: the way they're wrapped; the ratio of pork to prawns; and the inclusion of seasonal vegetables. For example, in Shanghai, wontons are commonly wrapped using the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthewoksoflife.com\u002Fhow-to-fold-wontons\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ediamond or bonnet\u003C\u002Fa\u003E technique. In more southern regions of China, like Guandong or Hong Kong, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthewoksoflife.com\u002Fhow-to-fold-wontons\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Escrunch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E method is more common.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are also key distinctions in the broth. Southern regions serve wontons in pork-based broths that are light in flavour and made with dried prawns. Shanghai wontons are typically served in a broth with a base of soy sauce or chicken stock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite regional differences, Fang likes to customise the fillings. \"These days there are vegetarian versions with tofu and bok choy, and I've done a version with Italian sausage and mushrooms,\" she said. \"Now that we're exposed to so many ingredients, we can put different things in wontons that aren't so traditional anymore!\" For those who don't eat pork, chicken mince, turkey mince or finely minced tofu can all be substituted.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to fillings, you can adjust the seasonings. Fang says the traditional seasonings, whether the wonton is vegetable or prawn, include sesame oil and the right balance of salt and sugar. If you're using pork or another protein, seasonings can include white pepper, soy sauce, liquid aminos (a gluten-free substitute for soy sauce), sake, mirin or Chinese wine, which is great for bringing out the flavour of pork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost adults eat wontons in a single bite, but children often need their wonton cut into smaller pieces, which makes the filling spills out. When Fang was a child, her mother helped her to make tiny wontons, perfectly sized for a mini chef (and eater). As Fang grew, so did her wontons, until one day they reached the standard size, and she could officially call herself a big kid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENow as a mother, Fang follows the same steps with her own children. \"It's really sweet to watch my kids grow through wontons because I associate that with family. My mom started that tradition by making the baby ones, and then I caught on and was like 'Oh, that's brilliant!'.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis tradition has now been passed down to Fang's own children and she hopes that it will continue for generations to come. Recipes, like wontons, highlight the importance of community; multiple generations gathering around a table and passing down culinary knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFang said, \"You don't have to spend a ton of money to create memories [bringing] family [together] over something as simple as a wonton.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fr48zv"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Shanghai Wontons with Prawns, Pork and Celery recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EShanghai Wontons with Prawns, Pork and Celery recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Kathy Fang&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 1 (10-12 wontons)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the wontons:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E225g (&frac12;lb) pork mince\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 prawns (about 80g or 3oz), peeled and deveined, finely minced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup finely minced celery hearts (the tender inner stalks)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 egg, whisked\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp soy sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp toasted sesame oil \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp dashi powder (omit if you can't find it)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp cornflour \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp Shaoxing wine, sake or mirin \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E12 wonton wrappers (thin, square ones, often labelled Hong Kong-style)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the soup:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E475ml (2 cups) chicken broth (store bought or homemade)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp soy sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp finely minced green onions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp toasted sesame oil \u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epinch of white pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epinch of salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eserve:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E1 tsp chilli-black bean oil&nbsp;(optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp garlic-chilli oil&nbsp;(optional)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a bowl, mix all the wonton ingredients (except the wonton wrappers) with 2 tbsp of water until fully incorporated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EMake the dumplings. Spoon 1 to 1&frac12; tsp of filling in the centre of a wrapper. Fold one corner to the other and seal with water, forming a triangle. With the point facing up and the flat side facing down, dab the right corner with water and bring the left side over to the right; press together to form a wonton (this should look like a pointed tortellini). Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBring the chicken broth to a simmer. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Boil the wontons until they float.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a large bowl, add the soy, green onions, sesame oil, white pepper and salt. Place the wontons on top and ladle the broth over. To kick up the flavour and heat, drizzle with chilli-black bean oil and\u002For garlic-chilli oil, if desired.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETips\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Col start=\"1\"\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EInstead of water, whisk broth into the filling for additional flavour.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EExtra wonton skins can be frozen; wrap them tightly and place in a zip lock bag. Simply defrost in the fridge when ready to use.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003Cli\u003EYou can get creative with the vegetables. As long as the total amount of vegetable is &frac12; cup minced, feel free to use the following (or a combination, if you like): minced cucumber skin, fennel, mustard greens, spinach, bok choy, cabbage, chives or kale.\u003C\u002Fli\u003E\n\u003C\u002Fol\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons-4"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-30T10:05:28Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A family recipe for Shanghai wontons","headlineShort":"A staple recipe from Shanghai","image":["p0fr49p8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.7857957","longitude":"-122.4024703","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fr49p8"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230519-southeast-asias-spicy-and-flaky-curry-puffs","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230517-why-has-british-chinese-food-shocked-the-us","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230508-roujiamo-chinas-2200-year-old-burger"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"These juicy wontons are filled with pork mince, prawns and celery, and served in a light broth fragrant with sesame and soy.","summaryShort":"They're the favourite of a Chinese American family dynasty","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink","tag\u002Fasian-american-pacific-islander-heritage"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-29T21:05:57.023863Z","entity":"article","guid":"1b62a6bf-293d-4398-a6d0-2881bce25661","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-30T09:59:18.073263Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230529-a-family-recipe-for-shanghai-wontons","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsan-francisco","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcalifornia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_california_san-francisco_north-america_usa_california_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220934},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","_id":"6399da67122e04621549f57f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAdam Malick Sow had a headache. He was several hours into his trip from New York to Washington DC, and after his limousine crossed into the state of Maryland, he asked his driver to find a place to stop.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few miles later, the newly appointed ambassador to the United States from the African nation of Chad stepped into a diner along US Route 40 and asked for a cup of coffee.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe answer on a summer day in 1961 would change history.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe wife of the diner's owner refused to serve the diplomat because he was black. \"He looked like just an ordinary run of the mill [N-word] to me. I couldn't tell he was an ambassador,\" Mrs Leroy Merritt later told the national magazine Life. \"I said 'There's no table service here'.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe insult sparked an international incident, making the front page of newspapers across Africa and Asia. Soon after, diplomats from Niger, Cameroon and Togo reported similar experiences at Maryland restaurants. Like others, they travelled on the same highway from the United Nations in New York to their embassies in Washington. And their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle that paved the way toward outlawing segregation in the United States.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, not even a marker commemorates the dozens of demonstrations that followed along the road, and most travellers zoom by the area on Interstate 95, one of the busiest highways in the country. But if they look carefully, they can find traces of the remarkable story of US Route 40, which parallels Interstate 95 in northern Maryland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThat's how I found myself pushing aside weeds along a busy four-lane road looking for a half-buried stone indicating the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-40638673\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMason-Dixon Line\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the demarcation between the US North and South. On its eastern edge, the line marks the boundary between the states of Delaware and Maryland. Local historian \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dixonhistory.com\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMike Dixon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E had shown me where to find it. \"That line had a lot of meaning,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Delaware had some segregated restaurants at the time, in Maryland it was the rule. In 1961, once travellers crossed into the state, they were subject to the laws of the South, where blacks were routinely denied service at restaurants, stores and hotels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I developed a deep hatred – one shared by many – for Route 40","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStokely Carmichael, a pioneer in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.archives.gov\u002Fresearch\u002Fafrican-americans\u002Fblack-power\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlack Power movement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, faced regular humiliations as a college student when he stopped for meals along the road. \"I developed a deep hatred &ndash; one shared by many &ndash; for Route 40,\" he wrote in his book Ready for Revolution.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut once the region's entrenched racism started to ensnare diplomats, US president John F Kennedy was forced to take notice. The incidents were an embarrassment in the middle of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fcoldwar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECold War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, threatening US global influence. One State Department official shared his frustration with a reporter at the time: \"Those damn limousines always seem to run out of gas just as soon as they get to Maryland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd Kennedy wasn't particularly gracious about it either. \"Can't you tell those African ambassadors not to drive on Route 40. It's a hell of a road,\" he complained to a staff member. \"I wouldn't think of driving from New York to Washington. Tell them to fly.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe issues were hardly new. Nearly 60 years before the diplomats' complaints, the state of Maryland passed a law requiring segregation on public transportation. Black train passengers were forced to move to a \"coloured car\" when they arrived in Maryland. A few months later, a black law professor refused to give up his seat and was arrested, leading to a legal case that eventually overturned part of the law. The court prohibited segregation for interstate passengers whose trip originated outside of Maryland but allowed it for those who were travelling inside the state.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, a small brick train station, just off Route 40 in Elkton, Maryland, is used for storage. Dozens of Amtrak trains zoom by daily, without an indication that for a time the town was a stop to sort passengers by race.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 1960s, the sorting was happening at diners, restaurants and hotels. In the weeks after the incident with Ambassador Sow, the federal government quietly began to pressure Maryland restaurateurs to serve diplomats travelling through the area. But no sooner had some of the businesses agreed to comply, then the issue flared up again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThree black reporters from Maryland's Afro-American newspaper staged an elaborate charade. Two dressed up in tailcoats and top hats, and a third donned a robe and leopard-skin crown. They presented themselves at Route 40 restaurants, claiming to be officials from the non-existent East African country of Goban. One, who called himself Orfa (Afro spelled backwards), posed as the minister of finance. In their subsequent article, the journalists documented that they were served at most restaurants as long as they pretended that they weren't American.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe article outraged many. \"It would drive you crazy if you pondered it long enough,\" said Charles Mason, a black Baltimore resident who was 21 at the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe worked with the Congress of Racial Equality (CORE), a national bi-racial group devoted to desegregation, organising picket lines along Route 40. The group called the effort Freedom Rides, a nod to the movement fighting segregation on buses and in public accommodation across the Deep South. CORE distributed a brochure listing restaurants that claimed to serve all travellers and ones that still were segregated. \"Help complete the job,\" it urged protestors. \"End racial discrimination along US 40.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason, now 82, joined demonstrations on weekends, dressing in a suit and tie, while women wore dresses. \"We wanted to show a good image.\" Often, they were greeted by hostile crowds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We were scared. All of us were scared,\" he said. He remembers white people screaming and hollering and \"wanting to bash me in the head\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMason will be featured in a Black history exhibit opening in May at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mdhistory.org\u002Fexhibitions\u002Fpassion-and-purpose\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMaryland Center for History and Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amynathanbooks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmy Nathan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Maryland author who writes about the civil rights movement, said the recognition is long overdue.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These were individual efforts by people who had just had enough, and they saw things needed to be changed,\" Nathan said. \"They were just walking back and forth in front of a roadside restaurant, but it's good to remember that what may seem like a small effort, when combined with other efforts, may have a big result.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of the businesses that faced protests are long gone, replaced by strip shopping centres, fast food restaurants and petrol stations. But a few remain.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt one, the Bar-H Chuck House in the Maryland town of North East, four demonstrators were arrested when they refused to leave. After they were jailed, three staged a hunger strike, Dixon told me. The county sheriff sent the strikers to the state mental hospital, saying the prisoners had to be insane to refuse food. But within 24 hours, they were back at the lockup. \"The state psychiatrist said: 'They aren't crazy, they're just protesting for social justice',\" Dixon said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe diner's now called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fm.facebook.com\u002Fpages\u002Fcategory\u002FDiner\u002FNorth-East-Family-Restaurant-729520420768121\u002F\"\u003ENorth East Family Restaurant\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and owned by Ed Omar, originally from Alexandria, Egypt. He had never heard the story until I stopped by one morning. \"I just learned something new,\" he said. \"I'm North African. Look at me. I'd be the first one they'd kick out.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWaitress April Jones can't imagine refusing to serve someone who was black. \"Are you serious?\" she said. \"It is crazy. It's changed a lot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI had a similar experience less than 20 miles down the road at the former Sportsmen Grill, which in 1961 faced white picketers carrying signs with messages like: \"Let's Have Dinner Together\" and \"Let's End Racism in America Now.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the restaurant in Aberdeen operates as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frayscaribbean.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERay's Caribbean American Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Owner Rayshad Beepath, an immigrant from Trinidad and Tobago, was amazed when I showed him a picture of the protest. \"I had no idea, no clue\" he said. \"I've got to Google this. It's a great thing to put on the wall.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe demonstrations had their effect. In 1963, Maryland passed a law banning discrimination in hotels, restaurants and other accommodations. \"The protests galvanised the governor and the legislature. It was the first state civil rights act,\" said James Karmel, a college professor and director of the Harford Civil Rights Project, which has created a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fharfordcivilrights.org\u002Ftours\u002Fshow\u002F3\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and app (\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fapps.apple.com\u002Fus\u002Fapp\u002Fid1588420953\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIOS\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fplay.google.com\u002Fstore\u002Fapps\u002Fdetails?id=org.curatescape.HarfordCivilRights\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAndroid\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) documenting the local Freedom Rides.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the victory came almost too late for Route 40. On 14 November 1963, John F Kennedy helicoptered to the area to dedicate a new limited-access highway that would become part of Interstate 95.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, visitors stopping for a bathroom break or fast food at the highway's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitdelaware.com\u002Flistings\u002Fbiden-welcome-center\u002F5168\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBiden Welcome Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E can see pictures of Kennedy posing with dignitaries, and even watch a video of his brief speech.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn what would be one of his last public appearances before he was assassinated eight days later, Kennedy stood on a podium built on the Maryland-Delaware state border &ndash; the Mason-Dixon Line &ndash; to dedicate the road. He noted it would play a crucial role in linking cities on the US East Coast. And although Kennedy didn't mention it, there was another benefit too: travellers on the new highway wouldn't have to drive on Route 40.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-03-07T10:04:48Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The US highway that helped break segregation","headlineShort":"Where diplomats were denied coffee","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"39.4840363","longitude":"-76.2118752","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Along US Route 40, African diplomats were routinely denied service at local establishments. But their treatment set off a civil rights struggle that led to outlawing segregation.","summaryShort":"Their treatment set off a little-remembered civil rights struggle","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-03-06T21:09:33.586808Z","entity":"article","guid":"23f22641-3d0b-4348-9d5e-add16d0cdced","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-09T22:10:12.511179Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220936},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion","_id":"6399da67122e04761916e374","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Winding 1,387 miles through some of North America's most extreme environments, it was the most ambitious construction project since the Panama Canal and built to defend a continent.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMarch 2022 marks the 80th anniversary of the start of construction on the Alaska Highway. Considered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cntraveler.com\u002Fstory\u002F9-scenic-canada-road-trips-within-2-hours-of-the-us-border\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eone of the most scenic highways in Canada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the 1,387-mile highway attracts more than 300,000 road trippers from around the world every year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeginning in Dawson Creek, British Columbia, and winding north-westerly 613 miles through BC into Yukon, and then another 577 miles to the US border, the road passes from the Rocky Mountains to subarctic alpine tundra to the jagged peaks of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fyt\u002Fkluane\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKluane National Park and Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E before ending at Delta Junction, Alaska. Along the route, parks, campsites, resorts and small towns welcome visitors while locals relish the opportunity to share stories about life in the northern frontier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDawson Creek, a remote farming community located in the rolling foothills of the Northern Rockies near the Alberta border, might seem like an odd place for the start of an international highway. The town wasn't much more than a 600-person rail terminus when Canada and the US first began discussing plans to build a road connecting the lower 48 states with the far-flung northern outpost in 1929. Until 1930, Alaska was only accessible by boat from the contiguous US, and as US relations cooled with Japan, the isolated territory seemed especially at risk against a potential Japanese attack against the North American mainland, as Alaska's Aleutian Islands are just 750 miles from the closest Japanese military base.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's a bucket list road trip with jaw-dropping scenery","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeveral options were considered, but on 7 December 1941, the day the Japanese attacked the US' Pacific Fleet at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fworldwars\u002Fwwtwo\u002Fpearl_harbour_01.shtml\"\u003EPearl Harbor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the debate became urgent. The criteria &ndash; a route to send defensive supplies to northern military bases should mainland US or Canada be attacked, far enough inland that enemy planes couldn't reach it &ndash; made the proposed route starting from Dawson Creek the top contender. Three months after the attack, thousands of US troops and an armada of heavy equipment arrived by rail at the little blip of a town to begin one of the US' most expensive construction projects of World War Two.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180121-route-e69-norways-icy-marvel-of-engineering\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoute&nbsp;E69: Norway's icy marvel of engineering\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20201029-captain-gallagher-the-legend-of-irelands-highwaymen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E'Captain' Gallagher: The legend of Ireland's 'Highwaymen'\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210510-the-worlds-loneliest-bus-route\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world's lonelinest bus route\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOriginally known as the Alaska Military Highway, Alcan or Canadian-Alaskan Military Highway, the stunning $138m (the equivalent of $2.55bn today) feat of engineering is simply called the Alaska Highway today. Its initial military purpose began to fade from memory as soon as the route opened to the public after the war in 1948. Almost immediately, Greyhound buses braved the wilderness track, and before the end of the first year, some 2,000 tourist vehicles would follow in their dust. From there, the legend only grew &ndash; the story about an impossible-to-build highway that could take visitors across some of the roughest and most beautiful land imaginable.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a \"bucket list road trip with jaw-dropping scenery\", said Maya Lange of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hellobc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDestination BC\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELeaving Dawson Creek, the Alaska Highway meanders past farmlands, forests and rivers to Fort Nelson, BC. It was here, while driving the highway last year with a group in search of winter's Northern Lights, that I first got a sense of the effort involved in building the highway, which was considered the biggest and most challenging engineering project undertaken since the building of the Panama Canal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fortnelsonmuseum.ca\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFort Nelson Heritage Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located about 280 miles north of Dawson Creek, an old-timer named Marl Brown (who sadly passed away in June 2021) told me he used to worry about the loss of the highway's history. As a mechanic for the Canadian Army at mile 245 in the 1950s, back when much of the now-paved track was still gravel, Brown noticed that some of the 174 steam shovels, 374 blade graders, 904 tractors and 5,000 trucks used to build the road had been discarded and were rusting away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They were working so fast, when a bulldozer, grader or truck broke, it was pushed out of the way and they kept going,\" he explained.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBrown started collecting the old machinery. Pretty soon people were dropping all manner of highway-related items at his door. \"They knew I was collecting these things, so after a while I decided we needed a place for them.\" Raising money for the museum was an enormous effort for the small town; Brown even auctioned off shaving rights for his locally famous long beard. But for the gifted mechanic, preserving the story of the highway was a worthy goal. \"Visitors were interested in driving it for the challenge and the scenery,\" he said. \"But people should know what went on before they came, how the highway came about.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom Fort Nelson, the highway winds west into the Northern Rockies. We peered out the windows at frozen waterfalls suspended from rugged cliffs and marvelled at lakes and rivers turned into vast skating rinks. In the low angle winter light, the wild expanse turned monochromatic as the black spruce of the boreal forest contrasted with the snow-covered mountains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPulling off to the side of the road, we decided to try a hike on one of the frozen rivers. Up close, the ice was milky blue and walkable when going uphill &ndash; but when coming back, some patches were so slippery we sat down and slid. Cold, with my breath hanging in the air, rugged landscape all around me, it was possible to imagine the 16,000 US and Canadian soldiers and civilians working through some of the region's coldest temperatures on record. Historical accounts say drinking water froze solid, diesel thickened, and ice could lock up the wheels of a truck if it stood still for more than a few seconds.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack on the road, traffic was light; a moose wandered out of the forest ahead of us then faded into the swirling snow. A few miles further on, a timber wolf watched from a hill as we drove by. Later we were forced to stop when a herd of wood bison took over the road, seemingly appreciating the easy path across the wintery landscape.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne summer, on an earlier trip, my husband and I loaded our daughter and a couple of friends from California into a borrowed car and trailer. We were eager to see how far north we could get and crossed the Yukon border at historical mile 635. Over the years, the highway has been straightened, widened and paved, shaving miles off, but the historical mileposts tell the story of how the road builders searched in vain for an easy path through the rugged territory. Their solution was to seek out Indigenous guides who showed them the overland gold rush trails, which overlaid the ancient \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20211024-the-little-known-hiking-trail-that-built-canada\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndigenous grease trails\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and trade routes of the Dane-Zaa, Dene (Slavey), Tse'Kene, Tahltan, Kaska, Tagish, Tlingit, Northern and Southern Tutchone and Upper Tanana peoples who still call the region home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOut on the land, the muskeg, stunted boreal forests, craggy rocks and sparkling jade lakes of the Yukon formed a panorama so vast and ancient I could see how it would have resisted taming. A recruitment notice from the time let workers know: \"Temperatures will range from 90F degrees above zero to 70F degrees below zero. Men will have to fight swamps, rivers, ice and cold. Mosquitoes, flies and gnats will not only be annoying but will cause bodily harm.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECamping at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyukon.ca\u002Fen\u002Foutdoor-recreation-and-wildlife\u002Fcamping\u002Fsite\u002Fmarsh-lake-campground\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarsh Lake Campground\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at historical mile 890, the notorious mosquitos made an appearance. By morning, the inside of our trailer looked like a crime scene with bloody mosquito carcasses splattered on every surface. My daughter, who was five at the time, refused to remove her bug jacket to eat for two days. She took solace in the idea that the true purpose of mosquitoes might be to keep land wild by chasing humans away.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIncredibly, it only took 10 months to build the Alaska Highway (it took 10 years to complete the Panama Canal). With the extra daylight of the midnight sun, crews worked double shifts in the summer, and 400 miles of road were laid in July 1942 alone. Crossing 129 rivers and 8,000 mountain streams, the highway was built in sections by seven US Army regiments. This meant there were a few places where the builders met and linked their sections of road together. One of the last sections to be linked was Beaver Creek near the Alaska-Yukon border. It was decided that the opening ceremonies should take place at a more scenic spot though, and on 20 November 1942 at historical mile 1061, the highway officially opened to military traffic at a place called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pc.gc.ca\u002Fen\u002Fpn-np\u002Fyt\u002Fkluane\u002Factiv\u002Frandonnee-hiking\u002Fsoldiers\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESoldier's Summit\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in what's now Kluane National Park.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKluane is a place where many visitors slow down, stopping to hike or to base themselves for a rafting trip on the Alsek River. We chose a few short hikes, always with the hope of capturing a glimpse of an elusive mountain goat. One morning we were rewarded with a distant sighting of curled-horn Dall sheep. Another day brought a grizzly bear sighting. But the goat still remained a goal.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt historical mile 1,221, drivers reach Port Alcan and pass from Canada into the US. From here, the road continues along the winding Tanana River. Framed by the famed Alaska Range, the rugged landscape gradually gives way to farmland, seemingly echoing the way the highway began. The endpoint is at Delta Junction, mile 1,387 (historical mile 1,422), a small 993-person town at the confluence of the Delta and Tanana Rivers.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDelta Junction has an end-of-highway monument where you can snap a photo proving you made the drive. The sign tells the road's story in numbers: 77 contractors; 15,000 soldiers; 11,000 pieces of equipment. It can be easy to get lost in these staggering figures and miss a more subtle point. Eighty years ago, when facing a threat, two countries came together in friendship to build an impossible road to prevent an attack that never came.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd as you drive through the highway's vast mountain ranges and over raging rivers, past ancient forests and deep lakes, and through traditional Indigenous villages and friendly small towns, there's plenty of time to dream about the other impossible things we could choose to accomplish next.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EEDITOR'S NOTE:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this article incorrectly stated that the Alaska Highway was the US' most expensive construction project of World War Two. This has now been corrected.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-02-11T10:25:23Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Alaska Highway: A subarctic road to prevent invasion","headlineShort":"America's extreme subarctic road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"55.7596","longitude":"-120.235558","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Winding 1,387 miles through some of North America's most extreme environments, it was the most ambitious construction project since the Panama Canal and built to defend a continent.","summaryShort":"It was the most ambitious construction project since the Panama Canal","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-02-10T21:26:13.485521Z","entity":"article","guid":"7a42878e-b254-4fef-856d-faa95ab831f4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:41:39.002932Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220936},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","_id":"63c9bfae122e0461e8564669","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Stretching 185km across the mountains to the Iraq-Iran border, it's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Every journey should begin with a cup of tea,\" said my guide Omer Hussein, as we ordered a round in the Machko teahouse in Erbil, the capital of the semi-autonomous region of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-middle-east-28147263\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKurdistan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in northern Iraq. \"But we should drink it the Kurdish way,\" he added, indicating how to sip the unsweetened liquid through a sugar cube held between the teeth. \"The extra energy will be useful for the long drive ahead.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInvigorated with caffeine and sugar, we jumped into Hussein's car and set off along the Hamilton Road. Stretching 185km from Erbil across the imposing Zagros Mountains to the town of Haji Omeran on the Iraqi Kurdistan-Iran border, the road is not only considered one of western Asia's most spectacular routes, but one of its most audacious feats of engineering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuilt between 1928 and 1932, it was named after lead engineer AM Hamilton, a New Zealander working for the British when they took control of Iraq following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire at the end of World War One. The road was part of a grander plan to form a British-controlled trade route linking the Persian Gulf with the Caspian Sea, and it was built across largely unmapped terrain in the face of extreme weather, widespread pestilence and tribal conflict.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Many Kurds still consider Hamilton and his workers as heroes for what they achieved,\" said Hussein, as the adobe ramparts of Erbil's ancient citadel slowly disappeared behind us in the rear-view mirror. \"What used to take forever on a mule can now be done in a leisurely two days on smooth tarmac; the Hamilton Road takes you into the most beautiful parts of Kurdistan in the process.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe cleared the city's suburbs, passing by glittering new mega-malls and mosques until we came upon a much more storied construction 27km away near the village of Banaman: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kurdistan24.net\u002Fen\u002Fstory\u002F26476-Khanzad:-An-ancient-castle-and-a-legendary-female-Kurdish-leader\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKhanzad Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the former residence of Khanzad, the so-called \"Kurdish Warrior Queen\" who ruled over parts of the region in the 16th Century. Hamilton also recalled Khanzad Castle in his memoir \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fus\u002Froad-through-kurdistan-9780857716521\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERoad Through Kurdistan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, in which he described the rough track of road near the fortification that he was tasked with upgrading as \"an endless zigzag&hellip; with an unfinished surface of sharp rocks\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"That was a comparatively easy job for Hamilton,\" said Hussein. \"Far more difficult and dangerous terrain lay ahead: places with no tracks at all, places where few people had ever set foot.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe continued north-east for 40km to Shaqlawa, the site of one of Hamilton's earliest road-building camps. Back then, Shaqlawa was just a tiny village; today it's one of the largest cites on the Hamilton Road, home to 25,000 people and renowned for its honey.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn a busy market day, we found the streets alive with tourists and locals &ndash; the Kurdish women wearing brightly coloured \u003Cem\u003Ekras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (floor-length dresses), the men sporting traditional \u003Cem\u003Ejamadani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (headdresses) and baggy trousers tied with \u003Cem\u003Epshten\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (cummerbunds.) We entered a health food store belonging to beekeeper Sabah Nasir to sample some of his wildflower honey. He told us his honey's unique floral, menthol, citrus and pine notes are because he moves his colonies along the Hamilton Road to feed on a wide variety of pollens throughout the seasons. The road has brought him other benefits too, notably more customers.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Kurdish diaspora come from as far away as Australia and the USA; they buy kilos of my honey at a time,\" Nasir said. \"Westerners pass through here on their way to explore the Zagros Mountains and to climb Mount Halgurd. Hamilton's road has helped open up trade and bring modern tourism; it has opened us up to the world.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHamilton met his first major engineering obstacle 32km north of Shaqlawa: a 198m-high ridge rising from the desert plains to the village of Spilk, which he described as \"a lonely spot with an unsavoury reputation for robbery and murder\". To build a road up through the \"great boulders higher than a standing man\", he assembled an eclectic army of Kurdish, Arabic and Persian workers for the hard labour, while the project overseer was an Assyrian Christian, the surveyor a Bengali Hindu and the explosives expert an Armenian Jew. With so many religious beliefs to accommodate, Hamilton proposed that as a compromise, nobody should have a holy day of rest, and so they toiled seven days a week, enduring temperatures of 40C, venomous snakes and outbreaks of malaria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There were tribal blood feuds going on all around them, too,\" said Hussein, as we drove up the looping hairpin bends that they went on to construct. \"The workers would show Hamilton the skulls and dead bodies that they found amongst the rocks. It was an extraordinary achievement to get them to complete their mission at all.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe crested the ridge at Spilk, where the road narrowed from four lanes to two. Hamilton described the path ahead as a \"50-mile maze of gorges and canyons\", but he relished the scale of this particular challenge, setting up camp near the waterfalls of Gali Ali Bag where he would remain for two years. Following ibex and goat tracks, he began mapping out the shortest possible route through the canyonlands and ordered specialist equipment from England, including jackhammers, air-compressors, steam rollers and steel bridge parts that were shipped by boat, train and truck thousands of miles to Shaqlawa, before a caravan of camels carried them up to his mountain base.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHamilton and his 1,000 workers then laboured day and night, toiling under the light of hurricane lamps after dark, when the roar of snow leopards could be heard on the mountaintops. Over many months, they drilled and blasted their way through the ravines in searing heat and bitter cold as they endured attacks of dysentery and \"plagues of locusts flying in clouds so dense they darkened the sun\". Eventually, they cleared a way through the rock labyrinth with a smooth ribbon of bitumen and five new river bridges.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped near the Gali Ali Bag waterfalls to admire a now-disused stretch of that original road: a half-tunnel carved into a sheer precipice. \"My grandparents drove along here until it was diverted in the 1970s, terrified that the mountain would come down on them,\" said Hussein. \"For a quarter-mile it was so narrow only one car could pass at a time. They'd honk their horns as a warning and pray for no oncoming traffic in case they all got stuck.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe stopped for the night at the foot of Mount Halgurd in Hussein's hometown of Choman, where we dined on the much-loved Iraqi national dish of \u003Cem\u003Emasgouf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: roasted, spatchcocked carp. We shared the earthy, muddy-flavoured fish with his friend Sadik Dealzi, a sociologist, who told us he saw two principal side effects of Hamilton's road for the Kurds. The first was that schools were built in a region with high illiteracy rates, which led to the education of male and female doctors, lawyers and engineers &ndash; something unheard of at the time. Secondly, it linked the scattered mountain communities, giving them a sense of common identity and a desire to preserve their traditions and beliefs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELater that evening, Hussein's wife, Nasreen, shared a story of one such local belief. Years ago, her grandfather-in-law had gone missing on Mount Halgurd after an avalanche and was presumed dead. \"So, the family went looking for a pure-black cockerel,\" she said. \"It was taken to the slopes where it walked about on the snow for a long time until it suddenly stopped and crowed &ndash; only once. In that same spot, they dug and found the corpse. We don't need a helicopter or mountain rescue &ndash; we have the black cockerel.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe next morning, after a traditional breakfast of flatbread, sheep's yoghurt and honey, we set out, stopping briefly to pick up an elderly hitchhiker, Ahmed Ali, who was heading home to Haji Omeran laden with purchases from Choman's bazaar. As the road climbed, the landscapes softened into broad, gently sloping valleys. For Hamilton, construction of this final serpentine stretch was a breeze: \"What was left to do we could take in our stride,\" he wrote. Our own progress was rather more faltering, brought to regular standstills by sluggish diesel trucks heading for the border and flocks of fat-tailed sheep crossing the road on their way to fresh highland pastures.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Even though the road has brought the farmers new markets for their mutton and tail fat (popular amongst mountain Kurds as cooking oil), in many ways, their lives are just as hard as they were centuries ago,\" said Hussein. \"Brown bears and wolves kill the sheep, and eagles steal the young lambs.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETwo hours later, we finally pulled into Haji Omeran, a scruffy, scrappy kind of town with a frontier feel. Ali explained that many of the town's 500 or so families were part-time residents, choosing to escape the harsh winters for the relative comforts of Erbil. \"Only a few of us brave the -20C temperatures and 10ft snow drifts. It makes you realise what Hamilton and his workers went through all those years,\" he said, before collecting his belongings from the car boot. \"But only by suffering the winter can you truly appreciate the beauty of spring, summer and autumn. Those are the times to come here. Then you will see how Hamilton built a road to a Kurdish paradise.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBy the time his job was complete, Hamilton had fallen in love with Kurdistan &ndash; so much so that he was too emotional to bid his team farewell. Instead, he wrote of his final glimpse of the \"wilderness of snow-bound peaks, barren as the mountains of the moon\", adding \"the picture of it all will live forever in my memory\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-01-20T15:37:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Hamilton Road: A highway to a Kurdish paradise","headlineShort":"Asia's audacious British-built road","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.191111","longitude":"44.009166999999934","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Stretching 185km across the mountains to the Iraq-Iran border, it's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen.","summaryShort":"It's a stunning feat of engineering that nearly didn't happen","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-01-19T22:09:32.978999Z","entity":"article","guid":"48adc5df-0532-4123-bda9-6cd0a4e2fae3","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","modifiedDateTime":"2023-01-20T17:08:10.990851Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220936},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway","_id":"6473becb122e041ecf6a3d9d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ftracey-teo"],"bodyIntro":"Stretching 113 miles into the open ocean, this engineering marvel linked the far-flung Florida Keys to the mainland and forever changed Florida.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeagulls cried overhead as I glided across miles of glistening waters somewhere between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. The sky melted into the teal sea, which turned turquoise as it shallowed into channels between the coral and limestone islands. It was a tableau of blue, extending as far as I could see.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAs I adjusted my sunglasses, I glimpsed a blur of movement from the corner of my eye. A bottlenose dolphin! It had friends, and soon the pod performed an aquatic ballet, leaping in graceful arcs before plunging back into the waves. Fishing boats bobbed lazily around me, and I had an urge to cast a line, but it would have been hard to do while driving at 50mph along a highway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETravelling from Miami to the island of Key West, Florida, hasn't always been the carefree drive it is today. In the early part of the 20th Century, the only way to make the journey to the southernmost point in the continental US was a day-long boat ride, and that was dependent on weather and tides. But thanks to a stunning engineering marvel known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffla-keys.com\u002Fthe-highway-that-goes-to-sea\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOverseas Highway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that stretches 113 miles from the mainland's southern tip across 44 tropical islands on 42 bridges, I was seemingly floating across a necklace of mangrove forests and cays as I drove to a place where North America and the Caribbean meet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq4q25"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Overseas Highway actually started as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fflaglermuseum.us\u002Fhistory\u002Fover-sea-railroad\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOver-Sea Railroad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and it was the brainchild of visionary developer Henry Morrison Flagler (known as \"The Father of Modern Florida\"). In 1870, Flagler co-founded the Standard Oil Company alongside business magnate John D Rockefeller, and it became one of the world's largest and most powerful corporations at the beginning of the 20th Century. After visiting Florida and recognising \"The Sunshine State's\" tourism potential, Flagler poured much of his wealth into the region, building luxury resorts that transformed one of the US' poorest states into a winter paradise for Gilded-Age travellers from the Northeast US. Yet, there was no way for guests to get to Flagler's opulent-but-remote resorts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo in 1885, Flagler connected a series of disjointed railroads along Florida's Atlantic Coast from Jacksonville, at Florida's northern end, to Miami, near the state's southern tip. Miami should have been the end of the line, but when the US began construction on the Panama Canal in 1904, Flagler saw tremendous potential for Key West &ndash; the US' closest piece of land to the Canal and the deepest port in the Southeast US. The bustling hub was already flourishing thanks to the cigar, sponging and fishing industries (Key West was Florida's largest city until 1900), but the island's remote location made it difficult and expensive to move goods north.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETherefore, Flagler decided to extend his track 156 miles south to Key West, mostly over open sea. This so-called Key West Extension was considered impossible by many of his contemporaries, and his vision was labelled \"Flagler's Folly\" by his critics. Between 1905 and 1912, three hurricanes battered the construction site, killing more than 100 workers. Undeterred, Flagler pushed ahead. It took seven years; $50m ($1.56bn today); and 4,000 African American, Bahamian and European immigrants to build the railroad &ndash; all of whom had to contend with alligators, scorpions and snakes as they \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tampabay.com\u002Ffeatures\u002Fhumaninterest\u002Fhenry-flaglers-dream-the-over-sea-railway-came-true-100-years-ago\u002F1211206\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etoiled in harsh conditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen the railroad was finally completed in 1912, it was called \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.floridastateparks.org\u002Flearn\u002Fflagler-railroad\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe eighth wonder of the world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\". On the train's inaugural run, a wood-burning locomotive arrived at Key West from Miami carrying the then-82-year-old Flagler, who stepped out of his private luxury carriage car (which is on view at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.flaglermuseum.us\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlagler Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Palm Beach) and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tampabay.com\u002Ffeatures\u002Fhumaninterest\u002Fhenry-flaglers-dream-the-over-sea-railway-came-true-100-years-ago\u002F1211206\u002F#:~:text=Flagler%20being%20Flagler%2C%20he%20thought,little%20food%20and%20inadequate%20shelter.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eallegedly\u003C\u002Fa\u003E whispered to a friend, \"Now I can die happy. My dream is fulfilled.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq4q98"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The fact that Flagler funded [more than $30m of this] out of his own pocket back in the day was pretty remarkable,\" said Florida historian Brad Bertelli. \"Jeff Bezos or Bill Gates might be able to do it today. Elon Musk with his SpaceX might be the best modern comparison.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe railroad operated until 1935, when the deadliest hurricane in a century swept away miles of tracks. Instead of being rebuilt, Flagler's masterwork was reincarnated to accommodate Americans' newfound love of automobiles. In 1938, the US government set out to construct one of the longest overwater roads in the world by relying on Flagler's seemingly indestructible bridges, which could withstand 200mph winds. Crews paved over the rails to accommodate cars, and the newly opened Overseas Highway forever transformed the far-flung Florida Keys into the thriving tourist destination they are today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than a century after the railroad's completion, 20 of the original bridges still carry travellers from Miami to Key West. You can make the drive in under four hours, but detouring along the way is part of the fun. A series of fascinating, under-the-radar stops helps travellers better appreciate how this engineering marvel came to be, and its lasting impact on the Florida Keys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESixty-nine miles south of Miami, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitflorida.com\u002Fplaces-to-go\u002Fsoutheast\u002Fkey-largo\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKey Largo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the northernmost of the Florida Keys and great first stop. Gators, snakes and other water-bound critters may have terrified Flagler's construction crews, but these days, travellers come to Key Largo (the self-proclaimed \"dive capital of the world\") to marvel at its abundant marine life. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffloridakeys.noaa.gov\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFlorida Keys National Marine Sanctuary\u003C\u002Fa\u003E adjoining \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpennekamppark.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJohn Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E attracts snorkelers and divers eager to immerse themselves in North America's only living coral barrier reef. The seagrass beds here provide a critical habitat for fish, manatees and sea turtles, but the main attraction is swimming into the outstretched arms of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.atlasobscura.com\u002Fplaces\u002Fchrist-of-the-abyss-florida\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChrist of the Deep\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a submerged 9ft-tall bronze statue of Jesus that has been watching over visitors since 1965.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq4qf8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOnce you've dried off, head to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitflorida.com\u002Fplaces-to-go\u002Fsoutheast\u002Fislamorada\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIslamorada\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a community halfway between Miami and Key West that was once the site of an Over-Sea Railroad station. Here, at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.keysdiscovery.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKeys History &amp; Discovery Center\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 35-minute documentary highlights the railroad's construction and its many obstacles. The museum also presents artefacts from the train's golden era, including dining car dishes, as well as an original menu showing that a sirloin steak cost $1.60. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrom 1908 to 1912, about 400 workers lived in an encampment at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffla-keys.com\u002Fmarathon\u002Fpigeon-key\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPigeon Key\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a tiny coral island located 35 miles south of Islamorada, while constructing the most challenging portion of the Over-Sea Railroad: the famous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitflorida.com\u002Ftravel-ideas\u002Farticles\u002Fflorida-keys-the-keys-seven-mile-bridge\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESeven Mile Bridge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (colloquially called the Old Seven) that connected the Middle and Lower Keys.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fembed?mid=12tEEX6da8mOqZ7pdNDjlm5-Tf9tfN_k&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1909, civil engineer William J Krome was charged with the daunting task of crossing a 6.8-mile expanse of open water. Construction crews worked round the clock, driving more than 700 supporting pilings into the middle of the ocean, sometimes nearly 30ft below sea level, to build the route's longest bridge. They were assisted by divers who helped create underwater concrete pedestals to support the weight of the rail track.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERemnants of the old construction camp can be accessed by taking a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpigeonkey.net\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002FPigeonKey_SteelDrums-1280.mp4\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etrolley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E across the old bridge from the city of Marathon to Pigeon Key. A 2.2-mile section (the only part that is accessible) reopened in January 2022 following a $44m, five-year renovation. Closed to non-trolley traffic, the once-decaying bridge is now a safe playground for those who want to cycle or rollerblade 65ft above the crystal-clear water or observe marine life, like sea turtles and nurse sharks.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, only four permanent residents live on Pigeon Key. The five-acre island is now a National Historic Landmark and is run primarily on solar power. It's also home to a&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pigeonkey.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Emuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;offering&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpigeonkey.net\u002Ftour-schedule\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eguided tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;of several buildings that once housed workers, and chronicles what daily life for the crew was like as they built the Seven Mile Bridge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fq4qk8"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThose driving the full length of the Overseas Highway today know the journey is complete when they see \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.visitflorida.com\u002Fplaces-to-go\u002Fsoutheast\u002Fkey-west\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUS Mile Marker 1 in Key West\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The black and white buoy marks the southernmost point in the contiguous US, meaning travellers are now closer to Cuba (90 miles south) than Miami (132 miles north). But while many visitors head straight for the city's main drag, Duval Street, or the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hemingwayhome.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EErnest Hemingway Home and Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the small-but-informative \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.trolleytours.com\u002Fkey-west\u002Fsails-to-rails-museum\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESails to Rails Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is worth a look.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EThe museum traces 500 years of Key West history, showing how this 7 sq mile tropical island evolved from a pirate haven to a trading hub to a tourist destination famous for its laid-back vibe. Artefacts from the railroad era include the paymaster's car that served as a sort of mobile bank to deliver salaries to railroad employees. The Eighth Wonder of the Modern World exhibit highlights the railroad's evolution and explains how each obstacle was eventually overcome by pushing the limits of early 20th-Century technology.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"If I had to single out the most influential event in the history of the Florida Keys, it would undoubtedly be the completion of Flagler's Oversea Railway,\" said Dr Cori Convertito, a Florida Keys historian and author. \"Through his vision, dedication, enterprise and foresight, the Keys were, for the first time, connected to the American mainland.&nbsp;The commercial and travel advantages for residents and visitors to the island chain cannot be overstated. It forever influenced the trajectory of the Keys' economy and opened the door to the tourism industry we have today.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-open-road\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EThe Open Road\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a celebration of the world's most remarkable highways and byways, and a reminder that some of the greatest travel adventures happen via wheels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-open-road","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fmodern-engineering-marvels"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-29T10:50:33Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Overseas Highway: The US' 'floating' highway","headlineShort":"The US' 113-mile 'floating' highway","image":["p0fq4pwf"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"24.5555","longitude":"-81.7838","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fq4pwf"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220306-the-us-highway-that-helped-break-segregation","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230119-the-hamilton-road-a-highway-to-a-kurdish-paradise"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Stretching 113 miles into the open ocean, this engineering marvel linked the far-flung Florida Keys to the mainland and forever changed Florida.","summaryShort":"It's a stunning engineering marvel that stretches into the ocean","tag":["tag\u002Froad-trips"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-28T20:51:06.650676Z","entity":"article","guid":"d8b8ff9f-10c4-4255-991c-e695bc23eb46","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-28T20:57:35.291691Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230528-the-overseas-highway-the-us-floating-highway","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fflorida","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_florida_north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220935},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses","_id":"646412c4122e041ea45b3d7e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Koganeyu to Spa LaQua to Myojinyu, here are our picks for the five best \"sento\" public bathhouses in Tokyo.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EShedding your clothes, sinking into a tub of steaming water and staring up at soothing hand-drawn murals depicting the idyllic countryside won't just transport you into a Zen-like state of oblivion; it's one of the most uniquely Japanese experiences you can have.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ESento are divided by gender and guests wash themselves before bathing. Towels, soap and shampoo aren't always provided. Entrance fees are regulated and cost Y500 for adults. There is an additional fee to use the sauna. Many family-run small sento don't accept credit cards.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Know before you go","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EPublic bathhouses (\u003Cem\u003Esento\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) have been an important part of daily life in Japan for centuries. They are thought to have first appeared in Japan in the 12th Century and became particularly popular during the Edo period (1603-1868). For many Japanese who didn't have their own bathtubs at home, the local sento was a place to cleanse oneself while socialising with friends and neighbours.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs the Japanese economy expanded in the 1960s-1970s and private bathrooms became increasingly common, the number of sento have steadily declined. Yet, these days, nearly every neighbourhood in the capital still has at least one sento, and with a new generation of sento owners updating their bathhouses with saunas and other facilities, sento are currently enjoying a revival among both young and old.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Azabu Kokubisui Onsen Takenoyu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ESlipping into a pool of chocolate-brown water takes some courage, but this \"black beauty water\", as it is locally known, is what makes a visit to this sento on a quiet side street in Tokyo's bustling Azabu Juban neighbourhood special.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002F3nSNR83CvTTRWM5j8\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETakenoyu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E started as a restaurant in 1913, and according to its owner, Hiroshi Higuchi, the water comes directly from a hot spring under the bathhouse. Its unusual hue is due to a combination of peat, mud and volcanic ash stemming from the ocean floor, near the spring's source.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EDespite its muddy look, the bath water is actually silky-smooth and feels surprisingly soft on your skin. Sitting in one of Takenoyu's bathtubs is like soaking in a pool of skin lotion. The water's healing properties are attested by local chefs, who come to Takenoyu to soothe their hands after long days of washing and scrubbing.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ETakenoyu is extremely popular and regulars tend to leave their belongings at the washing up areas. The cold bath, at 14C, is used for pouring water over the body to cool down and contains undiluted \"black beauty water\". This is denser than the water in the hot baths, which has been boiled and diluted.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftakenoyuazabu.wixsite.com\u002Ftakeno-yu?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Ftakenoyuazabu.wixsite.com\u002Ftakeno-yu?lang=en\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: Azabu Juban\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: 1-15-12 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo,\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +81-3-3453-1446\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Koganeyu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThere's cold beer on tap, music cascading out of the overhead speakers and a stream of mostly young men eager to wash away the day's stresses at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002F6MDHU93rK7xquKC46\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKoganeyu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a trendy sento with a 90-year history.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EKoganeyu became especially popular among young people after Tomoko Shinbo, the owner, and her husband, Takuya, revamped it in 2020, transforming a traditional sento catering to mostly elderly locals into a popular and more modern destination for sauna lovers. As Takuya explained, if you could listen to music while taking a bath, enjoy a cold beer afterwards, eat good food and then go to bed, \"wouldn't that be fantastic?\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003ETo that end, they've added a cafe on the second floor, dormitory-style rooms allowing overnight accommodation and even a laundromat. Special events, such as a DJ night or a sauna retreat for overnight guests, are held periodically. Yet, for many bathers, Koganeyu's key attraction is the men's sauna facilities. In addition to a spacious sauna room, there is a 90cm-deep water bath (set at 15C) and an outdoor terrace to take in fresh air. (On Wednesdays women get to use the men's side of the sento.)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkoganeyu.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fkoganeyu.com\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EKinshi-cho\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: Kanazawa Mansion 1F, 4-14-6 Taihei, Sumida-ku, Tokyo\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +81-3622-5009\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fkoganeyu1010\u002F\"\u003E@koganeyu1010\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. Spa LaQua\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EKnown as a \"super-sento\" (a sento that also has restaurants, saunas and other facilities), \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002Fi4UdC4v1TSUEbSjx9\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpa LaQua\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is like a theme park where the theme is body pampering. There are multiple baths for men and women, saunas, several lounges, a beauty salon offering everything from lymphatic drainage massages to hair colouring, restaurants, a bar and a shop.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003ELocated within Tokyo Dome City, a sprawling complex with an amusement park, more than 50 shops, a hotel and 70 restaurants, Spa LaQua itself is so huge that it would take several visits to fully enjoy all it has to offer.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you fancy a quick nap, the main lounge offers comfortable reclining lounge chairs that come with individual TV sets and blankets . You can also stay overnight at an additional cost.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBe prepared to spend at least several hours here. In addition to a carbon dioxide bath, there is a bath containing oxygen and another with amber-coloured water containing sodium chloride, which is said to help with stiff shoulders and poor circulation. The most popular bath is the milky soda bath, which contains both oxygen and carbon dioxide. Soak in this soft water, and within minutes minuscule bubbles will form on your skin, giving it a soft, downy feel. The bath water comes from a natural spring located 1,700m underground.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite:&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.laqua.jp\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.laqua.jp\u002Fen\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ENeighbourhood:&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003EKorakuen\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +81-3-5800-9999\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram:&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Flaquacampaign\u002F\"\u003E@aquacampaign\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. Myojinyu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FVxATVNgtYprrsEQN8\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMyojinyu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the epitome of the classic Japanese sento and has been featured in many Japanese TV commercials and shows. Built in the style of a Japanese shrine and located in a quiet residential neighbourhood near the Haneda airport, Myojinyu is one of the few Tokyo sento that has retained its original structure since it opened in 1957. The gabled roof is made with traditional Japanese \u003Cem\u003Ekawara\u003C\u002Fem\u003E tiles with a carved wooden phoenix on the facade.\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EBathers can enjoy two different types of whirlpool baths as well as an herbal bath, which is infused with a different herb every day. The owners, Noboru and Mitsuko Oshima, heat the water the traditional way using firewood, which their customers say warms the body to the core. Noboru told me he personally cuts the wood himself.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe high ceiling and wooden floorboards, old-fashioned hairdryers and other vintage touches will take you back to the Showa era (1926-1989), when many houses in Japan were designed with a mixture of Japanese and Western elements.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EAfter a good soak, head to the small garden to relax. It can be accessed via the \u003Cem\u003Eengawa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an outside corridor along one side of the building.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EWebsite:\u003Cem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fota1010.com\u002Fexplore\u002Fmyojin-yu\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fota1010.com\u002Fexplore\u002Fmyojin-yu\u002F?lang=en\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EYukigaya\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: 5-14-7 Minami-Yukigaya, Ota-ku\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +81-3-3729-2526\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. Takarayu\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EKnown for its magnificent garden and engawa outside corridor,&nbsp; which has led local media to dub it the \"King of Gardens\", and \"King of Engawa\", \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002Fu8d4wPDxm9W8r9i47\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETakarayu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is just four years short of its 100th birthday.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe shrine-style bathhouse, with its bright blue \u003Cem\u003Enoren\u003C\u002Fem\u003E entrance curtain, stands out among the more modern houses on a quiet street just a stone's throw from the Arakawa River on Tokyo's north-eastern edge. The Japanese garden, which can be accessed from the engawa and the men's bathroom, features a pond with colourful Nishiki-goi carp swimming leisurely in the shadow of lush greenery. On Wednesdays, the men's and women's sides switch so that women can also enjoy the garden view while soaking in one of the four bathtubs.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EThe sento's herbal baths include combinations of jasmine, aloe, eucalyptus, mint and sandalwood, which change daily. Herbal baths are believed to stimulate circulation and help the body retain its warmth.There is also a bath containing germanium stones, which is said to stimulate circulation and help cellular regeneration. Head to the table and chairs on one side of the engawa to relax after bathing; you can pick up a can of beer or a bottle of chocolate milk on the way.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowtime.net\u002Ftakarayu\u002Fabout1\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowtime.net\u002Ftakarayu\u002Fabout1\u002Findex.html\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EKita Senju\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003EAddress:\u003Cem\u003E 27-1 Senju Motomachi, Adachi-ku, Tokyo\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +81-3881-2660\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fembed?mid=1uo0RdwF2sTa7qVz9vZnokfLXmYUsAO8&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Default\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMichiyo Nakamoto is a freelance journalist based in Tokyo who has enjoyed soaking in public baths in Tokyo and across Japan for many decades.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-17T10:32:26Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Tokyo's five best 'sento' public bathhouses","headlineShort":"Tokyo's best public bathhouses","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.652832","longitude":"139.839478","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From Koganeyu to Spa LaQua to Myojinyu, here are our picks for the five best \"sento\" public bathhouses in Tokyo.","summaryShort":"Soaking in a \"sento\" is one of Japan's great pleasures","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-16T23:33:08.377861Z","entity":"article","guid":"fcc4f2b8-efa7-4bad-82ea-982e244d30d4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-16T23:33:08.377861Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220937},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world","_id":"6399da49122e047609629ae1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Starting as early as the Neolithic Age, the tradition of the public bath has changed over the years to adapt to evolving cultures and social norms.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHot baths,\nsaunas, steam rooms, hot springs – spa culture takes on various forms\nthroughout the world, and learning to relax like a local is a top attraction in\nmany destinations. But as entwined as bathhouse culture has become with many\nmodern day societies, the seemingly omnipresent practice of using heat to\nrelease toxins is actually tens of thousands of years old, dating back to the\nNeolithic Age when nomadic tribes would find relief from the bitter cold by\nsoaking in the various natural hot springs they stumbled upon around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the\nworld’s earliest known public baths was built in the Indus Valley around 2500\nBC in the lost city of Mohenjo-daro. Called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fschools\u002Fprimaryhistory\u002Findus_valley\u002Ftechnology_and_jobs\u002F#item-article-03\"\u003Ethe\n“Great Bath”\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this large pool constructed of baked brick was excavated in\nthe early 1900s by archaeologists in present-day Pakistan. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fscience.nationalgeographic.com\u002Fscience\u002Farchaeology\u002Fmohenjo-daro\u002F\"\u003EAnthropologists\nsay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E it may have been used as a temple, since bathing and cleanliness may\nhave been linked to religious beliefs. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch later,\naround 300 BC, the practice of public bathing was adopted by the Romans, and\nthe bath became \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hulu.com\u002Fwatch\u002F23353\"\u003Ea vital part of society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, visited by rich and poor. For many\nit was the only place to rinse off after a long week of manual labour and at\nthe time, crowds of men and women \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pbs.org\u002Fwgbh\u002Fnova\u002Ftranscripts\u002F27rbroman.html\"\u003Ebathed naked together\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, as the bath was a primary place to\ngather and socialize. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe\ntradition of the public bath has since spread around the world, adapting to\nevolving cultures and social norms with differing customs and etiquette for\neach destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETurkish hammam\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ETurkish\nbaths, called hammams, were \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FNational-Geographic-Traveler-Istanbul-Western\u002Fdp\u002F1426207085\u002Fref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1353092125&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=turkey+hammam\"\u003Elikely derived\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in part from Roman and Byzantine\nbaths -- an export of the Roman Empire that extended to Turkey in the 7\u003Csup\u003Eth\u003C\u002Fsup\u003E\nCentury. The concept was predicated on having places of extreme cleanliness,\nwhere purifying the body went hand-in-hand with purifying the soul. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cyberbohemia.com\u002FPages\u002FIslahammam.htm\"\u003EPopularized around 600 AD\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, hammams were also spaces where\nmajor life events were celebrated, and bathing rituals were incorporated into\nweddings and births. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hammam\nis still a common gathering place for socializing and relaxing today. Upon\nentering, visitors may be given a towel, a pair of sandals and an abrasive\nmitt, a \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fmatadornetwork.com\u002Ftrips\u002Fwhat-to-expect-at-a-turkish-hamam\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ekeşe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E --\nmeant for exfoliating the skin. The hammam typically \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FNational-Geographic-Traveler-Istanbul-Western\u002Fdp\u002F1426207085\u002Fref=sr_1_1?s=books&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1353092125&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=turkey+hammam\"\u003Econsists of three main areas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E: a hot steam room with a large\nmarble stone at the centre, where bathers lay as attendants scrub them and\nadminister massages; a warm room for bathing; and a cool room for resting.\nAreas are typically gender-separated and nudity is optional. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOne\nhistoric hammam worth visiting is Istanbul's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cagalogluhamami.com.tr\u002F\"\u003ECagaloglu Hamami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a palatial marble bathhouse that was built in 1741. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERussian banya\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002FEBchecked\u002Ftopic\u002F513866\u002FThe-Russian-Primary-Chronicle\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EEarly historical accounts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E place the Russian banya, or\nbathhouse, in a central societal role by the 900s. In Slavic mythology, there\nwas even a banya spirit, named Bannik, who was believed to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cyberbohemia.com\u002FPages\u002Frussianbaniahistory.htm\"\u003Ehide under bathhouse benches\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, only to reveal himself if a\nvisitor was disrespectful or misbehaved -- in which case, Bannik would throw\nboiling water or hot rocks at the disruptive bather. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThroughout\nRussian history, the banya has been enjoyed by all classes. Villagers who did\nmanual labour used to visit a public bathhouse, often the only place to wash\noff, while wealthy Russians would sometimes indulge in private banyas.\nBathhouses were also visited as a spiritual experience, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=QQStGzDHbTwC&amp;pg=PA390&amp;dq=russian+banya&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FFWmUJaADNC20AGzkYDgBw&amp;ved=0CEMQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&amp;q=banya&amp;f=false\"\u003Eoften on Sundays\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a tradition that continues today.\nThe act of bathers hitting themselves with bunches of birch twigs called \u003Cem\u003Eveniki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, for example, is with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FFodors-Moscow-Petersburg-Travel-Guide\u002Fdp\u002F0307480615\u002Fref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1353078211&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=banya+russia\"\u003Eintended purpose\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of opening pores and increasing\ncirculationas well as an act of self-flagellation. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, most\nbanyas are gender separated and nudity is optional. They typically include a\ncold plunge pool and a hot steam room with wooden benches at varying heights --\nthe higher you go, the hotter the steam gets. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the\noldest banyas in Moscow (and one of the most famous) is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanduny.ru\u002F\"\u003ESanduny\nBanya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ftranslate.googleusercontent.com\u002Ftranslate_c?client=tmpg&amp;depth=1&amp;hl=en&amp;langpair=ru%7Cen&amp;rurl=translate.google.com&amp;twu=1&amp;u=http:\u002F\u002Fwww.sanduny.ru\u002Fabout\u002Fhistory\u002F&amp;usg=ALkJrhg3D6ohiwVLu3CE38Qlkzu31qMHgg\"\u003Ebuilt in 1806\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. It’s a large complex today, with\nswimming pools, a fitness centre, a beauty salon and a restaurant. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EJapanese onsen\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EJapanese onsen\nare natural hot springs, born from the country’s plentiful volcanic activity,\nand the practice of soaking in these thermal baths for healing, spirituality\nand rejuvenation stems back to when Buddhism spread to Japan in the 500s. Some\nevidence suggests \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.japanzine.jp\u002Farticle\u002Fjz\u002F551\u002Fjapan-and-onsen-a-naked-history\"\u003Ethat Buddhist monks had a hand in\nfounding\u003C\u002Fa\u003E some of\nthe earliest spa-like spots around the country. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003ESince\nJapan’s onsen are based around natural formations, some have been around for\nthousands of years. One such place is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jnto.go.jp\u002Feng\u002Flocation\u002Fspot\u002Fhotspri\u002Fdogo.html\"\u003EDogo Onsen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the island of Shikoku,\nbelieved to have been in use for at least 3,000 years. Mentions of the onsen\nhave been found in texts from early Japanese history, illustrating it as the\ngreat leveller, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.fodors.com\u002Fworld\u002Fasia\u002Fjapan\u002Fshikoku\u002Freview-448390.html\"\u003Ewelcoming gods, emperors and\npeasants alike\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\nThere is a certain cultural protocol to keep in mind when visiting a Japanese\nhot spring resort (nudity is required, for example). Before taking the plunge,\nrefer to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fblog\u002F20120307-travelwise-the-etiquette-of-japanese-onsen\"\u003Ethis guide to onsen etiquette\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.   \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EKorean jimjilbang\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EDisrobing\nis also mandatory in jimjilbangs, or Korean bathhouses, which are always\nseparated by gender. Jimjilbangs are a family affair in South Korea, with\neveryone from children to the elderly joining in on the pastime. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe origins\nof this tradition could be linked to the country’s natural hot springs, some of\nwhich have been in use for more than a thousand years. Today, many jimjilbangs\nare open 24-hours and offer lodging for the night, perfect for weary\ntravellers. Also unique to Korea are the materials used in the saunas, steam\nrooms and hot tubs. For instance, jade may be used in the sauna to relieve\njoint pain and stress, while baked clay may be used to promote detoxification.\nBody scrubs are also very common, using a mitt similar to the Turkish kese, but\nwith milk and water to moisturize the skin while promoting circulation. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the\nmore famous jimjilbangs in Seoul is the massive \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dragonhillspa.co.kr\u002F\"\u003EDragon Hill Spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a seven-storey spa featuring a seawater bath, a salt room, saunas,\nbaths, a swimming pool, a fitness centre, gardens, a food court, a nail salon,\na golf course, an internet cafe and a movie theatre. The primary draw is the\nmain sauna, heated by charcoal and infused with an oak aroma. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ENative American sweat lodge\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EThe earliest\naccounts of sweat lodges in Native American culture appear in writings by\nEuropean settlers \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com\u002Fbooks?id=vDI_i33qjUsC&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;dq=sweat+lodge&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=FVe1UN6gMMiy0AGijICIDA&amp;ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;q=sweat%20lodge&amp;f=false\"\u003Efrom\nthe 1600s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and according to anthropologist Raymond A Bucko, author of The\nLakota Ritual of the Sweat Lodge, sweat lodges have not changed significantly\nsince that time. Participants in the sweat ritual gather inside a dome-shaped hut\nor tent, where a pile of heated rocks lies in the middle. A sweat leader tends\nto the rocks and may pour water on top to fill the lodge with steam. He also\nleads the group in prayer and song. During the ceremony, offerings such as\ntobacco may be made to the spirits. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other\nbathhouses, sweat lodge rituals can last up to several hours. There are often\nmultiple 30-minute rounds, with breaks in-between to let the outside air in and\ndrink water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Native\nAmerican sweat experience, a ceremony expressly and wholly focused on the\nspiritual, pushes both the body and the mind to its limits. Suffering for the\nsake of moral strengthening is one important theme that permeates throughout\nthe sweat lodge, Bucko explained in his book. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFinnish sauna\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Ffeature\u002F20110607-getting-steamy-the-finnish-sauna-experience\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ESaunas\nare ubiquitous in Finland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a country with \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pbs.org\u002Fpov\u002Fsteamoflife\u002Fphoto_gallery_background.php#.UKZk2Gl25ZU\"\u003Earound two million saunas\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or approximately one sauna for\nevery two or three people. Nearly all Finns “take a sauna” at least once a week\n(even those \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.guardian.co.uk\u002Ftheguardian\u002F2001\u002Ffeb\u002F02\u002Ffeatures11.g2\"\u003Ein incarceration\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) and many families own portable\nsaunas to take on camping trips. “Sauna” is even a Finnish word, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.merriam-webster.com\u002Fdictionary\u002Fsauna\"\u003Emeaning\u003C\u002Fa\u003E a hot steam bath -- the steam for which is\ncreated by pouring water over heated stones. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough\nthe origins of the Finnish sauna are murky, Finland’s cold climate likely\ncontributed to the creation of this heat-filled structure. According to the\ndocumentary Steam of Life”, a film focused on Finland’s spa obsession, some of the first saunas\nwere heated huts that also served as homes. In addition to bathing, saunas\nwould have been used for chores requiring high heat, such as curing meats, and\npractices requiring sterile environments, such as preparing to bury the dead. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe\ntraditional Finnish sauna -- which dates back to at least the 12\u003Csup\u003Eth\u003C\u002Fsup\u003E\nCentury - is a smoke sauna, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ffinland.fi\u002Fpublic\u002Fdefault.aspx?contentid=160067&amp;seeking\"\u003Eheated by a wood stove with no\nchimney\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. After soaking\nin the heat, many locals will head outside to roll around in the snow or \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Ffinland.fi\u002Fpublic\u002Fdefault.aspx?contentid=160067&amp;seeking\"\u003Ejump into a hole in a frozen-over\nlake\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, since going\nfrom hot to cold is thought to stimulate blood circulation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\n\n\n\u003Cp\u003EThe oldest\npublic sauna still in use in Finland is the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.pispala.fi\u002Frajaportinsauna\u002Fsauna.en.html\"\u003ERajaportin Sauna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a smoke sauna dating back to 1906 and located\nin the southern city of Tampere. To stay in Finland and not take a sauna would\nbe like visiting Ancient Rome and not stopping at the local bathhouse. What\nbetter place to experience this age-old tradition than a historic spa that\nhelped shape the customs of today?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world-0"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2012-11-30T00:00:00Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The origins of bathhouse culture around the world","headlineShort":"The origins of bathhouse culture","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Starting as early as the Neolithic Age, the tradition of the public bath has changed over the years to adapt to evolving cultures and social norms.","summaryShort":"Relaxing like a local varies around the globe","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T20:33:29.405386Z","entity":"article","guid":"16e83c2d-23fa-45ac-ad05-df1ae54ff89d","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-24T23:32:23.073425Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220937},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam","_id":"6399da5b122e0476183ce608","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Not to be mistaken for a tajine, the tanjia must be cooked in a ceramic urn the traditional way – inside a communal furnace oven – and is exclusive to Marrakesh.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAs the sun sets over Marrakesh, the lights of Jemaa el Fna market begin to glow and Moroccan street food appears in abundance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ETucked beyond the main square, down a narrowing alley leading out to the souks, lie the stands of the \u003Cem\u003Etanjia Marrakchia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a specialty dish of Marrakesh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe little clay pots lining the tiled tops of the stalls don&rsquo;t contain fine cuisine, and the tired table and chair settings are easy to pass by &ndash; but any Marrakech local will agree that they hold the most tender and aromatic beef dish readily available in the city for lunch or dinner.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETanjia\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the name of both the stew and the ceramic urn it&rsquo;s cooked in. Traditionally, the earthen pots are taken by families to the communal furnace ovens inside the medina, which heat water for the local hammams (public baths). The pots are left to slow cook in the ashes at a low temperature for long durations of time, often overnight. It&rsquo;s common to see people wheeling dozens of the freshly roasted pots through the medina on carts and bicycles during the early morning hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike all memorable Moroccan cuisine, patience and delicate balance of flavour are key to an outstanding tanjia, which can rival any other beef dish on offer in Morocco.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo make tanjia, chunks of beef (and sometimes lamb) &ndash; with all the fat, bone marrow and trimmings left on &ndash; are slow cooked with chopped preserved lemon, coriander, parsley, garlic, onions and a pinch of cumin and saffron.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003ENot to be mistaken for a tajine, which can incorporate many combinations of ingredients, the tanjia recipe must be cooked in the tanjia pot the traditional way and is also exclusive to Marrakesh. While families across Morocco might make their own tanjia Marrakchia by taking a ceramic pot to the communal ovens at the heart of any medina, the authentic lunchtime stands are only found in Marrakesh.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe stands are conveniently located opposite olive and mint tea stalls; you can also bring your purchases from wandering the Jemaa el Fna market to create your own lunch platter around the meat-heavy tanjia stew.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe dish is joked as being very &lsquo;male&rsquo; in Marrakech. According to some, it&rsquo;s so easy to make that the task of preparation can &lsquo;even be trusted&rsquo; to men. It&rsquo;s also locally known as a &lsquo;working man&rsquo;s lunch&rsquo; or a &lsquo;bachelors stew&rsquo; due to the large queues of young men on their lunchbreak often seen lining up by the stands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThis is the carnivores&rsquo; corner of Jemaa el Fna, where \u003Cem\u003Emechoui\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an entire lamb slow-roasted in butter, is also served up at the same stands&hellip;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E...And for the truly adventurous, steamed sheep head is also on the menu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2017-08-17T19:20:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Moroccan dish heated by a hammam","headlineShort":"The tender stew cooked by bachelors","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not to be mistaken for a tajine, the tanjia must be cooked in a ceramic urn the traditional way – inside a communal furnace oven – and is exclusive to Marrakesh.","summaryShort":"It’s so easy to make that the preparation can ‘even be trusted’ to men","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:31:28.234675Z","entity":"article","guid":"6b65a8cc-94e3-4451-ac20-8b8ef001f1cd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:14:06.364621Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220938},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams","_id":"6470d40c122e041ca3317b9b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fjenna-scatena"],"bodyIntro":"From Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı to Çukurcuma Hamamı, here are five of the best places to experience a relaxing steam bath in Istanbul.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor centuries, Istanbul's hammams have been a source of pleasure and relaxation for visitors and locals alike. These storied bathing houses are part of the city's rich cultural and historical fabric, representing a physical manifestation of Ottoman tradition. What makes the experience unique is that hammams are really more than just bathhouses &ndash; they use a combination of heat, water and massage to achieve both physical healing and spiritual rehabilitation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E&bull; When entering, you'll receive a hammam kit: towel, \u003Cem\u003Epeştamal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a cotton wrap), soap and \u003Cem\u003Ekese\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (exfoliating gloves). Bring your own swimsuit unless you'd prefer to use the hammam's disposable ones.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull; Hammams are generally less crowded in the morning compared to the afternoon.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull; You can customise your experience, so feel free to let your attendant know what you prefer, such as more or less pressure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tips:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn estimated 230 hammams were once found amongst the streets of Istanbul, although only around 60 are still in operation. Their traditional marble floors and domed ceilings intricately decorated with calligraphy and tiles offer visitors a chance to submerge themselves in a unique atmosphere that feels closer to ancient Ottoman palaces. Each hammam has its own individual amenities, as well as spa treatments, providing authentic hospitality that few places in the world can offer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETour guide and TV host \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.hailizhere.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EElizabet Kurumlu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of Turkey's foremost hammam experts. During her career spanning more than 30 years as a licensed tour guide, she has taken the plunge in 2,000-year-old hammams, luxury hotel spa hammams and hole-in-the-wall hammams, experiencing more than 160 during her travels throughout Turkey and beyond. She is also the co-host for an upcoming documentary on hammam culture.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, she shares her favourite hammams in Istanbul and explains what makes them great.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fpyv1q"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Hurrem Sultan Hammam\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProviding a luxurious bathing experience worthy of the sultans, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FqUwjvj8KFVxXZY738\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis opulent hammam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the only one constructed by and for royalty that sits outside a palace. Named after the chief consort and wife of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fw3ct38t1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESultan S&uuml;leyman the Magnificent\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and designed by the 16th-Century Ottoman architect \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fblogs-news-from-elsewhere-36015767\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMimar Sinan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it was intended to be used exclusively by sultans and important visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe building was erected in the 16th Century on the site of Turkey's first bathhouse known as Zeuxippus in the ancient Greek acropolis of Byzantium. Not many people know this, but over time, it's been used as a prison and rug shop before ultimately being restored back to its original purpose: an opulent royal sanctuary with crisp, white marble interiors and exquisite gold detailing.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts tranquil atmosphere includes the hammam's very own custom soundtrack for optimal resonance within the ancient building's walls. There are four different hammam sessions designed for different needs, from more traditional scrubbing and massage on a heated Marmara marble platform to full-body clay masks and aromatherapy. After your session, Kurumlu recommends refreshing your senses with a glass of homemade \u003Cem\u003Esherbe\u003C\u002Fem\u003Et (a sweet traditional Ottoman fruit drink concocted especially for guests).&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurremsultanhamami.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.hurremsultanhamami.com\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: Sultanahmet\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: Cankurtaran, Ayasofya Meydanı No:2, 34122 Fatih\u002Fİstanbul\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +90 212 517 35 35\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fayasofyahurremsultanhamami\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E@\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fayasofyahurremsultanhamami\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eayasofyahurremsultanhamami\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fpyvgc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Ali Paşa Hamamı\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Housed inside a historic, grand building, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002F1znoPdt7Qwakco6p7\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKılı&ccedil; Ali Paşa Hamamı\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has been meticulously and intensively restored to provide a truly authentic hammam experience,\" Kurumlu said. Walking into the \u003Cem\u003Ecamegah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (lounge), the grandeur of the building is apparent with the impressive main dome that's considered among the largest hammam domes in Istanbul. Designed by Sinan and commissioned by the famous Ottoman admiral Kılı&ccedil; Ali Paşa as part of the mosque and school complex, Kılı&ccedil; Ali Paşa Hamamı was constructed between 1578-1583 to serve the Ottoman navy. It quickly became a landmark building in the trendy Karakoy neighbourhood on the bank of the Bosphorus.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hammam has one large area and offers separate sessions for women and men. \"This hammam is special because it always reminds me of women taking over,\" Kurumly said. \"Historically it only ever served men up until it reopened a decade ago. Now it serves women bathers in the day and men in the afternoon and evenings.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA special attendant &ndash; \u003Cem\u003Enatır\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (for ladies) and \u003Cem\u003Etellak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (for men) &ndash; assists you along your hammam journey, from donning your \u003Cem\u003Epeştamal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the classic cotton hammam wrap) through to the various rituals, including scrubbing, exfoliating and rinsing. Afterwards, Kurumlu recommends resting in the lounge and indulging in some of the traditional refreshments and delicacies at the cafe, such as sweetened soda water infused with lemon or seasonal specialties such as quince or cherry sherbet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkilicalipasahamami.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fkilicalipasahamami.com\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EKarakoy\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa, Hamam Sk. No:1, 34425 Beyoğlu\u002Fİstanbul\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +90 212 393 80 10\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fpyvlm"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3.&nbsp;&Ccedil;emberlitaş Hamamı\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FDNKtwrR2yZ6k6DH1A\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E&Ccedil;emberlitaş Hamamı\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a stunning example of the renowned Ottoman architect Sinan's work,\" Kurumlu said. \"I love the slightly aged, patina look to it.\" She explained that this hammam dates to 1584 and pointed out that its multi-domed structure boasts an impressive vault system and palatial ochre interior. Combining functionality, elegance and tranquility, the hammam retains much of this original design.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hammam is situated near some of Istanbul's greatest monuments, such as the Grand Bazaar and Blue Mosque. Upon entering, you're greeted at the door by no-fuss staff who guide you to a heated room where the pampering begins. From the \u003Cem\u003Esıcaklık\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (hot room) to scrubbing in the sultan's bath, every cell of your body will start to breathe after emerging from each room, which are separated by arched doorways with carved inscriptions and marble slab walls.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor additional relaxation, opt for the Indian head massage and body clay masks.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cemberlitashamami.com\u002Fcemberlitas-bath-historical-turkish-bath\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.cemberlitashamami.com\u002Fcemberlitas-bath-historical-turkish-bath\u002F\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: Sultanahmet\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: Mollafenari, Vezirhan Cd. No:8, 34440 Fatih\u002Fİstanbul\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +90 212 522 79 74\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcemberlitashamami\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E@\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcemberlitashamami\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ecemberlitashamami\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fpyvr2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4.&nbsp;&Ccedil;ukurcuma Hamam&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FrAtPkr747mgMChjs8\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E&Ccedil;ukurcuma Hamam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has a completely different look than other hammams: all white-washed look and a bit of mysticism to it, as we don't know the original architect,\" Kurumlu said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated in the bohemian neighbourhood of &Ccedil;ukurcuma, &Ccedil;ukurcuma Hamamı has been an iconic landmark for nearly two centuries. \"The original one was wood and burnt down, but the new one that replaced it kept some wood accents as a tribute to the original,\" Kurumlu added.​​ It was originally built in the 1830s. After a long renovation period, the hammam was finally reopened in 2018. Retaining its white marble interior with neutral stone and timber features, it attempts to recapture the magnificence of a bygone era.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, Kurumlu says that &Ccedil;ukurcuma Hamamı brings a breath of fresh air into the hammam scene, combining its traditional dome roofs with modern interior terraces and hidden lounge areas. Natural lighting bounces around the high ceilings, and small windows and skylights keep the place bright and airy. \"Take some time to explore the neighborhood around it, too, as it's one of the only hammams that's worth going for the neighbourhood as well,\" she said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo offer a feeling of seclusion, only five guests are allowed into the hammam at a time. Interestingly, this is one of only a few mixed-gender hammams in Istanbul today, yet the hammam provides a traditional experience, with body scrubbing and bubble wash on a heated marble stone. Add the body massage with organic oils to extend your revitalisation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.cukurcumahamami.com\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehttp:\u002F\u002Fwww.cukurcumahamami.com\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&Ccedil;ukurcuma\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: Firuzağa, &Ccedil;ukur Cuma Cd. NO : 43, 34425 Beyoğlu\u002Fİstanbul\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +90 530 933 05 13\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram: @\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcukurcumahamami\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ecukurcumahamami\u002F\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fpyvy8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5.&nbsp;Cinili Hamam\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUnlike other grand hammams, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgoo.gl\u002Fmaps\u002FzixgvXNkCAB8tF5T6\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECinili Hamam\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is intimate and cosy. You'll find this slightly offbeat choice tucked down an obscure street in the non-touristy neighbourhood of Uskudar on the Anatolian shore of the Bosphorus. While this makes it more difficult to reach, it offers a low-key and authentic experience from the minute you enter. \"When you walk in, you can smell the cedar wood of the traditional changing cabins and see the iconic fountain in the middle of the welcome area,\" Kurumlu said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&Ccedil;inili Bathhouse was ordered to be built in 1640 by K&ouml;sem Sultan, the chief consort and wife of the Sultan Ahmed I. Unfortunately, she died before the women's section of the bathhouse was finished and the construction was continued by her brother. To this day, the architecture of the bathhouse has not changed; even the outer domes are preserved with minimal restoration effort. \u003Cem\u003E&Ccedil;inili\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means \"with blue porcelain\" due to its stunning interior that has since been restored with blue stones and tiles. \"Usually we have multiple 'elephant eye lights' in hammam domes, but this only has one opening, so it's a bit darker and moodier as a result but also cosier and cocoon-like. It makes it more human scale versus a grand royal hammam,\" Kurumlu said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe hammam maintains its original antique heating system, heating its rooms with a huge wood-fired boiler that spills its warmth through pipes running around the bathhouse. Offering a simple and traditional hammam menu, Cinili's scrubbing, bubble massage and optional oil massages are combined to leave both men and women feeling completely cleansed.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cinilihamam.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.cinilihamam.com\u002Fen\u002F\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EUskudar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAddress: &Ccedil;avuşdere Cad &Ccedil;inili Hamam Sok No 6, 34664 &Uuml;sk&uuml;dar\u002Fİstanbul\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EPhone number: +90 216 334 97 10\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcinilihamami\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003E@\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcinilihamami\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ecinilihamami\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fembed?mid=1rwgBpEehUypCqU-hmCbMxdVXlstptMI&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fthe-specialist"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-27T15:44:29Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Istanbul's five best hammams","headlineShort":"Istanbul's five best hammams","image":["p0fpytw5"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.015137","longitude":"28.979530","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-tokyos-five-best-sento-public-bathhouses","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20121129-the-origins-of-bathhouse-culture-around-the-world","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20170811-the-moroccan-dish-heated-by-a-hammam"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamamı to Çukurcuma Hamamı, here are five of the best places to experience a relaxing steam bath in Istanbul.","summaryShort":"To feel the essence of Istanbul, sink into a steam bath","tag":["tag\u002Fwellness"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-26T15:44:59.332351Z","entity":"article","guid":"9b906759-941e-4c08-8667-5afb119a4a54","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-28T09:57:31.878974Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230526-istanbuls-five-best-hammams","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fistanbul","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fturkey","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_turkey_istanbul_europe_turkey_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220937},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto","_id":"63e64019122e041b0b650c75","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In her newest cookbook, US celebrity chef Tanya Holland adds a California twist to dishes made with ingredients generally associated with African Americans, such as collard greens.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmstanyaholland\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETanya Holland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E opens her new cookbook, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguinrandomhouse.com\u002Fbooks\u002F689033\u002Ftanya-hollands-california-soul-by-tanya-holland-with-with-maria-c-hunt-and-dr-kelley-fanto-deetz-foreword-by-alice-walker\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornia Soul\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with a clear definition of who she is, both as a person and as a chef:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I am Black and I am African American. I use these terms interchangeably. Both are accurate descriptors. My skin is dark brown and my ancestors are from the African diaspora. I live in California and am a Californian. I claim it all&hellip;\" She continues, \"As an African American woman, the contribution that my ancestors made to what Americans eat and how we eat is significant. No matter where we migrated from or end up, our food comes from within us and tells our story. I am contributing and this is my story. I have a California Soul.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Holland, the title of her book is two-fold. \"It is about the cuisine, California soul food, but it's also about me being a California soul in terms of California being the last frontier,\" she said, referring to the western US state as a place known for its pioneering spirit. Holland captures that spirit in her cooking style, which blends her African American roots with her classical culinary training, creating something new using California-grown ingredients and expressing a distinctly Californian vibe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We've got the oceans, the mountains, the rivers &ndash; and it's kind of laid back and inclusive. So, I just feel like that kind of reflects in the food, too. It's not pretentious food,\" she said. \"This is the food I would cook if no one was watching.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Grilled Rack of California Lamb with Collard-Almond Pesto\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EA chef, author and restauranteur, acclaimed in the US for her inventive take on modern soul food, Holland is the author of several cookbooks, including California Soul; the owner of the iconic Oakland restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.brownsugarkitchen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrown Sugar Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (2008-2021); and a TV personality, having appeared on Bravo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bravotv.com\u002Ftop-chef\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETop Chef\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Food Network's&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fshows\u002Fmelting-pot\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMelting Pot\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and HBO Max's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hbomax.com\u002Fselenarecipes\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESelena + Chef&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fa\u003Efeaturing Selena Gomez. She's also the host of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oprah.com\u002Fapp\u002Ftanyas-kitchen-table.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETanya's Kitchen Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on OWN (Oprah Winfrey Network), and leads the podcast \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmuddhousemedia.com\u002Ftanya-table\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETanya's Table\u003C\u002Fa\u003E produced by MuddHouse Media.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"About Tanya Holland","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs many people tend to only associate African American cuisine and soul food with the US South, Holland also wants to show that there are different evolutions of it across the country. \"I think people just think of African Americans as monolithic in a way,\" she said. \"We all have the same interests and the same background, the same values, and it's like, no. Just like any other ethnicity, there's a range.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen writing her cookbook, she would ask herself, \"What about this recipe is 'California', what about it is 'soul?'\" The Californian piece had much to do with the state's ethos of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.masterclass.com\u002Farticles\u002Fcalifornia-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecooking with what's grown locally and seasonally\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. What makes a dish \"soul\" is her using the repertoire of ingredients that are generally associated with African Americans, such as collard greens, mustard greens, yams, black eyed peas and sweet potato. Holland experimented with merging these two concepts as well as using different techniques from both her culinary training and those of her African American ancestors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think what I've learned through studying and my experience is how innovative African Americans have been for centuries,\" she said. \"They were the first cooks over here [in the US] and brought ingredients and integrated them into the ingredients they found here.\" She explained how Africans in the Caribbean and the US South created cooking techniques such as grilling and barbecuing. \"The techniques are ours,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake, for example, her Rack of Lamb with Collard-Almond Pesto, which utilises grilling techniques but also incorporates classical cooking savvy such as \"knowing how to cook meats to the proper temperature\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe dish also highlights elements that are both \"California\" and \"soul\". The lamb is sourced from Sonoma (just north of Oakland) and is what she describes as a \"flavourful delicacy\". The pesto is made by combining the collard greens with garlic, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, almonds and olive oil in a food processor, which is then brushed on the ribs during the later stages of grilling. Many Californian chefs have often found inspiration in Mediterranean&nbsp;cuisine. And similarly, while pesto is Italian, Holland uses almonds (which are a big Californian crop) instead of the usual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Frecipes\u002Fclassic-pesto\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epine nuts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in her iteration.&nbsp;The collard greens are, of course, a soul food staple, but as she says, \"they take on a new life as a raw, fresh pesto\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOverall, Holland says that the dish \"has the taste of the freshness [of] the earth, the pasture\" and that it's \"really unadulterated in terms of all of the ingredients having a home on the palate\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When I think of my culinary journey here in California, I think about all that I've learned about eating ingredients that are locally, sustainably and organically raised. And I can taste it. I can taste it when I buy and cook lamb and other proteins,\" she said. \"I've come to know the ranchers of these meats and it makes a difference &ndash; that's very California.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those wanting a taste of California Soul, but don't have access to Sonoma lamb, Holland suggests using Australian lamb, or whatever is available locally and sustainably. Ultimately, she believes in using the best ingredients possible. And perhaps most importantly, for Holland, food is meant to be enjoyed and tell a story.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The secret is, I tell people, it really is less about cooking and more about hospitality, really feeding people and also learning about other cultures through food.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Grilled Rack of California Lamb with Collard-Almond Pesto\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGrilled Rack of California Lamb with Collard-Almond Pesto\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Tanya Holland\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(serves 4)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPrep time: 20 minutes\u003Cbr \u002F\u003ECook time: 21 minutes\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E&frac12; bunch collard greens, centre ribs removed and coarsely chopped (about 4 cups)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 garlic cloves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup grated Parmesan cheese\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ejuice and zest of 1 lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E⅓ cup roasted almonds\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1 tbsp\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp warm water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Efreshly ground pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 California rack of lamb (6- to 8-bone)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat a gas or charcoal grill for indirect grilling so that one side is hot. Brush the cooking grates clean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECombine the collards, garlic, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice and zest, almonds, &frac12; cup of the olive oil, and warm water in a food processor. Process until well combined. Season with salt and pepper. Remove half of the pesto and set aside for serving. (Recipe yields about 1&frac34; cups of pesto.)&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESeason the rack of lamb with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Place the lamb, meat-side down, on the hot part of the grill. Grill until the meat is well marked, about 2 minutes. Flip and cook until the bone side is also well browned, about 4 more minutes. Move the meat to the cooler side of the grill, bone-side down. Brush with the reserved half of the pesto, close the lid and cook to the desired temperature (10 to 15 more minutes for medium rare, depending on the size of the rack).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Reprinted with permission from Tanya Holland's California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West by Tanya Holland, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-10T13:00:02.8Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Grilled rack of California lamb with collard-almond pesto","headlineShort":"Grilled lamb with collard-almond pesto","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.8119973","longitude":"-122.2688668","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In her newest cookbook, US celebrity chef Tanya Holland adds a California twist to dishes made with ingredients generally associated with African Americans, such as collard greens.","summaryShort":"Chef Tanya Holland adds a California twist to collard greens","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-10T13:00:55.811552Z","entity":"article","guid":"5a3e7aa5-1b70-4c63-9f38-f4f2bd5f2b55","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-10T15:49:09.938754Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220939},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup","_id":"63e63c80122e041ea72a7ab6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It's a comforting bowl filled with spicy noodles steeped in beef or chicken broth, Worcestershire and soy sauce, ketchup, and sometimes, hot sauce.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile it's typically foods like gumbo, charbroiled oysters, po'boys and jambalaya that lure people to New Orleans, lesser known \u003Cem\u003Eyakamein\u003C\u002Fem\u003E has been a hot bowl of local comfort for decades. In Baltimore, it's called \u003Cem\u003Eyat gaw mein\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, known colloquially as \"dirty yak\", a brown gravy-based udon noodle dish often mixed with shrimp and found at Chinese takeouts. Throughout the Tidewater region of Virginia, restaurants make a ketchup-based version called \u003Cem\u003Eyock\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut in New Orleans, the dish's birthplace, yakamein is a street-food staple worthy of more attention. It's a delicious bowl, carry-out box or Styrofoam cup stuffed with spicy spaghetti steeped in beef or chicken broth, Worcestershire and soy sauce, ketchup, and sometimes, hot sauce. The soupy dish also has meat (usually beef, chicken, pork or seafood), is generously spiced with creole seasoning (a blend of paprika, salt, black pepper, onion powder, cayenne pepper, oregano and thyme) served over spaghetti and garnished with green onions and a hard-boiled egg. Depending on preference, yakamein can be topped with a bit of extra hot sauce or ketchup for a finishing touch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Yakamein\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts mysterious origins aren't traceable to a documented recipe, though. Instead, the dish has been kept alive through generations of home cooks such as local legend Ms Linda Green, known as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20180529-new-orleans-secret-hangover-cure\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Yakamein Lady\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", who learned to cook the dish from her great-grandmother's never-written recipe and sells it out of the back of her pick-up truck at local events and festivals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome believe that yakamein was brought to the city by Black soldiers who fought in the Korean War and then came home and recreated the noodle dishes they grew to love overseas. Another explanation is that it was born in New Orleans' now-defunct Chinatown by Chinese immigrants who came to work on Louisiana's sugar plantations in the 1870s and \"Creolised\" their noodle soup to serve local African American clientele. Disputed history aside, yakamein is &ndash; much like the city itself &ndash; a melting pot of different cultures that came together to create something brand new.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor chef, author and artist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftoyaboudy\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EToya Boudy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and many New Orleanians, yakamein is a beloved dish slurped from mom-and-pop-style corner stores, street vendors during a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.neworleans.com\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fmusic\u002Fhistory-and-traditions\u002Fsecond-lines\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESecond Line parade\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, or family kitchens with coveted generational versions of the recipe. Boudy remembers one of the first times she had the dish, as well as her early cooking roots.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The first time I enjoyed yakamein, it was from a corner store. The corner stores here throw down. That's where I first started cooking, so I trust them,\" she said. Her mum also often made yakamein for her father, who loved it, but Boudy is sure to uplift the gender role-less home she grew up in, where both of her parents cooked, finding time in between multiple laborious jobs to make family meals from scratch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBoudy speaks to the blending of Black and Asian cultures by comparing the dish to Vietnamese pho, but with more flavour and oomph, like a lot of New Orleanian food. She describes yakamein as full of body.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"A lot of places you go to try food, you're tasting quality ingredients, but here you get flavour.\" The chef jokes (but in the most serious way) that she wants her food, which she equates to an edible hug, to be so good that someone wants to take their shoes off to enjoy it fully.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo make a good pot of yakamein even better, Boudy recommends adding extra green onions (scallions) and using a heavy hand on the Worcestershire sauce for a tangier feel. The chef's recipe also brings an added flair by using \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.seriouseats.com\u002Fsriracha-ketchup\"\u003Esriracha ketchup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. For Boudy, yakamein is easily one of the best gathering dishes, perfect for bringing people together.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I like showing people meals that put them in a position where they really feel like they can entertain. It's really about congregating together and being together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough she appreciates made-from-scratch dishes, Boudy acknowledges that life gets busy for everyone. So, she encourages us to remember \u003Cem\u003Emise en place\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the French technique to prep all ingredients before cooking), buy pre-chopped vegetables and read any recipe three times before turning on the stove.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBoudy's second book, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwwnorton.com\u002Fbooks\u002F9781682687451\"\u003ECooking for the Culture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, releases on 7 February (in the US). It's an intimate cookbook that's also part memoir full of personal stories &ndash; from school-age education woes to her teenage journey into motherhood &ndash; that mirrors the richness of the recipes, pulling readers into a warm celebration of New Orleans' culture and Black culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Yakamein\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYakamein\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Toya Boudy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(serves 10)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1 (2&frac12;-to 3lb) (1.1 to 1.3kg) boneless chuck or eye of round roast (beef)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E8 to 9 cups water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tbsp beef bouillon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp Cajun seasoning\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; to ⅔ cup soy sauce, plus more to taste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp sriracha ketchup\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 (1lb) (0.45kg) package of spaghetti, cooked according to package directions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 bunch scallions, trimmed and sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E5 hard-boiled eggs, cut in half\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ehot sauce (optional)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace the beef in a large stockpot. Cover with the water and bouillon, then add the Cajun seasoning. Place over medium-high heat, bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for three to four hours, until the beef is tender. Remove the beef to a large bowl and allow the beef and stock to cool for 20 to 30 minutes.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EShred or chop the cooled beef, discarding any large chunks of fat. Skim off the fat from the top of the stock. Add the soy sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce to the stock, tasting as you go and adjusting the seasonings if needed. When you're ready to serve, reheat the skimmed stock over medium heat until simmering.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo serve, divide the spaghetti and meat among 10 bowls. Top each with scallions and half an egg, then ladle some stock over the top. Serve with hot sauce or ketchup.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-10T12:44:39.006Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Toya Boudy's Yakamein: A New Orleans' noodle soup","headlineShort":"Yakamein: A New Orleans' noodle soup","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"30.0329222","longitude":"-90.022648","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It's a comforting bowl filled with spicy noodles steeped in beef or chicken broth, Worcestershire and soy sauce, ketchup, and sometimes, hot sauce.","summaryShort":"A comforting bowl filled with spicy noodles, broth and different sauces","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-10T12:45:35.178831Z","entity":"article","guid":"b3249e4a-3fa3-45c4-9d3c-d20a15b4a8d0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-10T15:43:53.526218Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220939},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn","_id":"63e63f5d122e041b1301c60b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In the Swediopian, a signature dish at Hav & Mar, celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson blends his Swedish and Ethiopian heritage, reflecting a contemporary expression of Black cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"For me, it starts with the name,\" said chef \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmarcuscooks\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMarcus Samuelsson\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, whose restaurant \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.havandmar.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHav &amp; Mar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently debuted in New York City. Samuelsson, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamesbeard.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJames Beard Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E award-winning chef and TV personality (featuring on Food Network's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fshows\u002Fchopped\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChopped\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and Netflix's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.netflix.com\u002Ftitle\u002F81224668\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIron Chef\u003C\u002Fa\u003E) behind Harlem's acclaimed Red Rooster and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmarcussamuelsson.com\u002Frestaurants\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eother restaurants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E worldwide, pays homage to his Swedish and Ethiopian heritage in this new endeavour.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESamuelsson was born in Ethiopia and raised on Sm&ouml;gen Island off the west coast of\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESweden, eventually settling in New York City. \"We all have different dualities. Mine is Swedish meets Ethiopian in New York,\" Samuelsson said. His cultural influences shaped his culinary path and inspired the name of his newest restaurant: \u003Cem\u003EHav\u003C\u002Fem\u003E translates as \"ocean\" in Swedish and \u003Cem\u003Emar \u003C\u002Fem\u003Emeans \"honey\" in Amharic. \"\u003Cem\u003EMar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means 'water' in so many Latin languages, too,\" he added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHav &amp; Mar's seafood-focused menu, created in collaboration with chef de cuisine Fariyal Abdullahi, highlights globally inspired small plates and family-style dishes. Samuelsson wanted the restaurant to reflect a contemporary expression of Black cuisine in Manhattan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Swediopian, a riff on gravlax, features berbere-cured salmon, mustard seed and buckthorn. Berbere &ndash; a traditional Ethiopian spice blend &ndash; is sourced from Workinesh Spice Blends in Burnsville, Minnesota, part of Samuelsson's effort to work with places honouring people of colour. Ingredients in berbere vary, each blend like a fingerprint individual to its maker. Workinesh Spice Blends' berbere features red peppers, onions, garlic, salt and \"spice\" &ndash; a proprietary secret. (Berbere typically includes chillies, garlic, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, coriander, cumin, fenugreek and cloves.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Swediopian recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Berbere for an Ethiopian is as important as salt and pepper is for a Swede,\" Samuelsson said. \"For berbere, it's not about spicy, it's about flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESamuelsson's food reflects his cultural identities. \"Being a Swede, I grew up with gravlax and cured fish. I prefer eating it closer to a crudo or a sashimi,\" he said. \"It's not about creating what gravlax was back in the day. That was a 48-hour cure, it was basically rubbery, but you could have it forever. This is not that.\" He explained that the Swediopian is comprised of quick-cured salmon rolled in berbere, accompanied by a root vegetable salad and a sauce made from Ethiopian coffee and buckthorn (\"which is very Swedish\") with a touch of passionfruit for sweetness and topped with \u003Cem\u003Einjera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, an Ethiopian flatbread. \"So, it's this dance, back and forth, back and forth. A lot of our dishes come from that back and forth.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The soul of that dish tells so many stories for me,\" Samuelsson added. \"It starts with my grandmother being a maid. It talks about, for me, coming from Ethiopia. It's not a backwards-looking dish, it needs to be delicious in this moment.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd it is delicious. The Swediopian bursts with umami, combining a melody of flavours and textures: savoury salmon with a hint of heat is balanced by tangy-sweet passionfruit and a satisfying injera crunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESamuelsson seeks to honour Black culture not only through his food, but in the restaurant aesthetics. The artwork at Hav &amp; Mar is a collaboration with critically acclaimed artist and creative partner Derrick Adams and creative partner Thelma Golden, director and chief curator of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstudiomuseum.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Studio Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Harlem. Hav &amp; Mar's original art installations include \u003Cem\u003EWe Are From The Water, Too\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a series of vibrant Black mermaids commissioned by Samuelsson that adorn the restaurant's walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis concept of Black mermaids has shaped the entire restaurant, from the artwork to how they name their dishes (another menu standout is Mermaid Black Rice, featuring djon djon mushrooms with crab, lobster and green peas).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the idea of mermaids in mind, Hav &amp; Mar became curvier in its design, from irregularly shaped dining tables to an oblong bar that takes centre stage. \"Of course, mermaids should have curves,\" Samuelsson said. During the pandemic, swimming became an escape for Samuelsson and his young son, and the restaurant reflects an underwater theme. \"It was the only time when both him and I could disappear from everything,\" Samuelsson said, explaining that the tonality of the greens, from the lighting to the bar stools in the restaurant, emulate different types of kelp and seaweed. \"I will always be able to tell my kids: We can push through. So, the joy comes from that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe joy also derives from Hav &amp; Mar's celebration of Samuelsson's cultural roots and the struggle that is part of his immigrant story. \"When I came here as a 23-year-old with 300 bucks to this country, there was not a restaurant for me &ndash; I had to carve that space out,\" he said. \"But I have to hold on to that dream.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Swediopian recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ESwediopian recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Marcus Samuelsson and Fariyal Abdullahi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(serves 1-2)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eberbere-cured salmon:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E2oz (about 57g) salmon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt, to cover\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eberbere, to cover\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor squash puree:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E3 cups kabocha squash puree (or substitute any winter squash)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EStart with 1 &frac12; cups vegetable stock and continue to add until puree is nappe (thick enough to coat a spoon) consistency\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tbsp passionfruit puree\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac12; tbsp honey\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2&frac12; tbsp water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp yuzu juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac34; tbsp mirin (or rice wine vinegar)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor honey mustard vinaigrette:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&frac14; cup shallots, minced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4&frac12; tbsp garlic\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup Dijon mustard\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 egg yolk\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 cup champagne vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E⅓ cup honey\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3&frac14; cups blended oil (mixture of 90% canola oil and 10% olive oil, or use 100% canola oil)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2&frac34; tsp cracked black pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Efennel, apples and cucumbers, thinly sliced (optional)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EGenerously salt the salmon until all sides are covered. Refrigerate for two hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove any excess salt from the salmon. Cover all sides with berbere and cure overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove any excess berbere.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESlice into &frac14; inch (about 6.5mm) thick squares\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERoast kabocha squash in a 425F (about 220C) oven until soft enough to puree. Blend with vegetable stock while still warm. (Alternatively, for home use, you can use canned squash).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EWhisk squash puree together with remaining ingredients until well incorporated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBlend all ingredients for honey mustard vinaigrette together minus the oil.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 8\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EOnce thoroughly blended, slowly incorporate the oil in a thin stream.\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAssembly:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToss some thinly sliced fennel, apples and cucumbers in the vinaigrette. Salmon is shingled and placed on top of bed of 1 tbsp squash puree. The salad is dressed and placed directly next to it.\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-02-10T12:56:43.902Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Berbere-cured salmon with mustard seed and buckthorn","headlineShort":"Swediopian: Berbere-cured salmon","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"40.7508472","longitude":"-74.0077811","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the Swediopian, a signature dish at Hav & Mar, celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson blends his Swedish and Ethiopian heritage, reflecting a contemporary expression of Black cuisine.","summaryShort":"A blend of chef Marcus Samuelsson's Swedish and Ethiopian heritage","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-02-10T12:57:48.435203Z","entity":"article","guid":"b1f25a8b-88ad-48ff-b2c4-218664c065f1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn","modifiedDateTime":"2023-02-10T15:51:08.206539Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220939},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich","_id":"646fd384122e041ed131cab9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["culture\u002Fauthor\u002Fcathy-erway"],"bodyIntro":"This crab cake sandwich is almost all lump crab, delicately bound with mayonnaise and egg and seasoned with lemon, herbs and Old Bay seasoning.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a child, Elmer Melendez Martinez often snacked on crabmeat from the claws that his mother and aunts brought home from their jobs picking blue crabs in the US state of Maryland. Though the steamed vermilion legs and prickly claws hold succulent meat for those with the patience to extract it, they are often discarded in the crabmeat industry in order to prioritise its most prized offering: lump crabmeat. These tender pillows of white fin meat &ndash; graded lump or jumbo lump, the latter even more a luxury &ndash; are carefully packed and sold fresh. Though exact numbers are hard to come by, a great deal of the product is enjoyed in the form of crab cakes, a Maryland signature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Melendez Martinez is the sous chef at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Finnatperrycabin.com\u002Fdining\u002Fstars\"\u003EStars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E restaurant at the Inn at Perry Cabin in St Michaels, Maryland, where he prepares crab cakes with seasonal accoutrements such as autumn squash, pomegranate and brown butter. Though he'd never had a crab cake before working at the restaurant in 2019, he quickly fell in love.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Maryland Crab Sammies recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Crab makes up 40% of our total sales, which is astronomical,\" said Gregory James, executive chef at Stars. Caught in the same river that guests admire from the windows of the dining room, it's a hyper-local product and one of the primary money-makers in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed, supporting the local fishermen. \"It really speaks to Maryland. When people come here, they want to have crab.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"cake\" in the name might be misleading; a true Maryland crab cake is very light on any ingredient besides pure picked crabmeat. A beaten egg, mayonnaise and light sprinkle of breadcrumbs just barely bind the pieces together, and the only other guests allowed at this crab cake-making table are fresh herbs (Stars uses chopped chives, parsley and lemon zest) and spices (like \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mccormick.com\u002Fold-bay\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E seasoning, another Maryland signature). Once formed into patties, a quick roast or pan-fry kisses the exterior with texture and toasty flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECrab has been enjoyed by Indigenous peoples in the Chesapeake Bay for more than 3,000 years, according \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sciencedirect.com\u002Fscience\u002Farticle\u002Fabs\u002Fpii\u002FS0305440314004774\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eto a study\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Journey of Archaeological Science. And the crab cake is a rustic delicacy that's been enjoyed for more than a century in the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Just like lobster, crab started off as being garbage food of the peasants, and then aristocrats realised how good it was,\" said James.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe same crabmeat mixture used for crab cakes is prepared in many ways at Stars &ndash; in crab eggs benedict, tortellini, crab imperial, crab fingers, crab bites and a hearty crab cake sandwich listed on the menu as the \"Maryland Crab Sammy\". Garnished with tomato, spinach and lemon aioli and served on a brioche bun, it's made every day the restaurant is open by Margarita Galdamez, a cook who has been employed at the 19th-Century inn for 18 years. She's gathered a few tricks of the trade over that time: first, the mixture should be very gently mixed so as not to break up the plump morsels of crab meat. \"I do it with my hands but very carefully,\" said Galdamez (through a translator from Spanish). \"I like to let the mixture cascade through my hands over a bowl.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother tip is to leave the crabmeat out on a paper towel-lined sheet pan, uncovered, in the refrigerator for a couple of hours or overnight. This will air-dry the crab meat and make the cakes lighter and fluffier.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut be sure to use your crabmeat soon. According to the late chef and Southern cooking authority \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ednalewisfoundation.org\u002Fmeet-ms-lewis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEdna Lewis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, its freshness is fleeting: \"Crabmeat has to be so fresh that it smells like the sea,\" Lewis wrote in her 1988 cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ednalewisfoundation.org\u002Fmeet-ms-lewis\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIn Pursuit of Flavor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She advises keeping it on ice as soon as you bring it home from the market and never freezing, which will ruin its texture. And like the chefs at Stars diligently do, always pick through it for shells. \"Even if it cost fifteen dollars a pound [&pound;12 for 450g] and the fishmonger insists it is clean, pick it over,\" she wrote.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENowadays, lump crabmeat easily costs three times that, anywhere from $40 to $60 per pound (&pound;32 to &pound;48 for 450g). But the reward for your trouble and money is a product that hardly needs any seasoning. Southern cooks like their crabs minimally fussed with so as not to overpower its delicate flavour. This makes a crab cake &ndash; or crab cake sammy &ndash; an ideal weeknight splurge of a meal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor all the crab they churn out at Stars, the cooks never get tired of it, said Melendez Martinez. \"Still love it. Still eat it as much as I can. My mom still brings it home and I can't get enough.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fnnv1s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Maryland Crab Sammies recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMaryland Crab Sammies recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERecipe courtesy of Stars restaurant at the Inn at Perry Cabin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 egg\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup mayonnaise, preferably \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdukesmayo.com\u002Fpages\u002Fabout\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDuke's\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&frac12; tsp \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mccormick.com\u002Fold-bay\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOld Bay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E seasoning (if unavailable, you can substitute with equal parts celery salt and paprika)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tbsp finely minced chives\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ezest of half a lemon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup panko breadcrumbs\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFor assembly:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 brioche buns\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 tbsp lemon aioli (or substitute with mayonnaise mixed with a squeeze of lemon juice, pinch of zest and pinch of finely grated garlic)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 slices beefsteak tomato\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eabout 60g (2oz) baby spinach\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EDrain the crabmeat on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and refrigerate uncovered for two hours, or preferably overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EVery carefully look for shells and remove if found (using a black light will help).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat the oven to 200C\u002F400F. In a large metal bowl, whisk together the egg, mayonnaise, Old Bay, chives and lemon zest. Sprinkle in the panko and mix gently to absorb.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EUsing your hands, very gently fold in the crabmeat without breaking up the pieces. Be careful not to overmix and stop as soon as the mixture appears somewhat evenly distributed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EForm the mixture evenly into four cakes in the shape of a hockey puck, roughly 113g (4oz) each. If available, pack them tightly into moulds. Place the formed crab cakes on a baking sheet. Bake for 6 minutes, or until the internal temperature is 75C\u002F165F.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETo assemble, coat each half of the cut brioche bun with &frac12; tablespoon of the lemon aioli. Add a tomato slice and some spinach leaves to the bottom of each bun. Top each with a crab cake, then close the bun and serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich-4"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-26T10:30:02Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Maryland Crab Sammy: a singular American sandwich","headlineShort":"A singular American sandwich","image":["p0fnnv8f"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.7904364","longitude":"-76.2244717","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fnnv8f"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-grilled-rack-of-california-lamb-with-collard-almond-pesto","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-toya-boudys-yakamein-a-new-orleans-noodle-soup","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230210-recipe-berbere-cured-salmon-with-mustard-seed-and-buckthorn"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This crab cake sandwich is almost all lump crab, delicately bound with mayonnaise and egg and seasoned with lemon, herbs and Old Bay seasoning.","summaryShort":"The crab cake in this sammy is the hallmark of Maryland's Chesapeake Bay","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-25T21:30:26.459569Z","entity":"article","guid":"d1a4a81f-f808-4bc6-89cc-99a807d31d4c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-26T00:04:24.050037Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230525-maryland-crab-sammy-a-singular-american-sandwich","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fnorth-america"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_north-america","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220938},"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:external:travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","_id":"6399dab2122e040f48334b6a","name":"World's Table","primaryVertical":"travel","sourceName":"Changing how the world thinks about food","sourceUrl":"https:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","summaryLong":"BBC.com \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.","summaryShort":"World's Table","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"creationDateTime":"2022-02-23T14:52:13.800605Z","entity":"external","guid":"2ae4a402-4711-426f-adf7-a9b658a43fcd","id":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","modifiedDateTime":"2022-03-03T12:44:54.740029Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Fexternal\u002F20220223-worlds-table","image":["p09xq72k"],"promoImage":["p09xq72k"],"articleType":"external","headlineShort":"World's Table","promoAlignment":"center","url":"https:\u002F\u002Fbbc.in\u002F3BK2dXL","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220939},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food","_id":"6445c6aa122e041b1279728e","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From Babuji to Dhaba@49, a new wave of restaurants is introducing locals and visitors to chaat – another delicious facet of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cuisine.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile London is well-known for its \"curry houses\" (and rightly so; there are many excellent ones), what might be less known is the growing number of restaurants serving \u003Cem\u003Echaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the delicious South Asian snacks and street food found at roadside stands and food carts across India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA beguiling mix of crunchy, tangy, sweet, fruity and spicy, chaat covers anything from \u003Cem\u003Ealoo chaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, crispy fried potatoes with diced onion, tamarind chutney, lime juice and chaat \u003Cem\u003Emasala\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spices) to \u003Cem\u003Ebhel poori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, made of puffed rice, potato pieces and crispy \u003Cem\u003Esev\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried noodles) with a deliciously tangy-salty tamarind chutney and chaat masala.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's a mouth-popping treat with endless variations that's deservedly coming into its own, from modern takes seen at restaurant chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dishoom.com\u002F\"\u003EDishoom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to long-standing snack spots such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsakonis.co.uk\u002F\"\u003ESakonis\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in London's South Asian community suburbs. Along the way, chaat is introducing Londoners and visitors to yet another delicious facet of South Asian cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Babuji &middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Head to this popular north London spot for the warm hum of conversation, old Bollywood tunes and the scent of cardamom- and cinnamon-spiced masala chai (bottomless, everyday).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EClassic Indian drinks, such as chaas (buttermilk with chaat masala), mango lassi, fizzy Limca or Thums Up cola, make a great accompaniment to chaat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpened in the mid 1990s by owner Mo Miah's father, Miah revamped \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FBabuji+(Indian+Street+Food)\u002F@51.5505919,-0.1434343,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48761bbb0862ad6d:0xc0a7bf5f18a29116!8m2!3d51.5505886!4d-0.1408594!16s%2Fg%2F11h00013m5\"\u003EBabuji\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just before the pandemic. The wall art taps into Bollywood and pop culture memes, while all the furniture is reclaimed or second-hand, with the dining chairs a 1970s throwback to when cane and rattan furniture was all the rage. Miah says he wants second and third-generation South Asians to be reminded of their parents and grandparents, and for people to recall their travels around South Asia as soon as they step inside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe eclectic \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbabuji.co.uk\u002Fmenu\u002F\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E mixes street food snacks with dosa and filling curries. Chaat dishes are a mix of traditional snacks, such as \u003Cem\u003Ebhel puri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a puffed rice dish that's as much as about texture as flavour, alongside street food-with-a-twist, like corn chaat (masala-spiced sweetcorn with fresh sweet tomatoes, fragrant coriander and chillies) and Bangladeshi \u003Cem\u003Eshingara chaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, where a crushed samosa is topped with yogurt, sev, tamarind chutney and coriander. The Chicken 65, a South Indian dish from Chennai, has a deliciously sticky, sweet-and-sour marinade, while the chutney- and onion-topped paneer naan is so good, it's virtually un-shareable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbabuji.co.uk\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fbabuji.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EKentish Town\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E343 Kentish Town Rd, London, NW5 2TJ\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 20 7485 5566\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbabujiuk\u002F\"\u003E@babujiuk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Dhaba &middot; $\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Not far from Battersea Power Station and its new tube station is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FDhaba+Indian+Street+Food\u002F@51.4746869,-0.1574167,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x487605084f1d6a55:0x87eebf964e4cc0b0!8m2!3d51.4746836!4d-0.1548418!16s%2Fg%2F11f3z8kf13\"\u003EDhaba\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a friendly neighbourhood restaurant that's become popular with locals since opening six years ago for its menu of hard-to-resist street food and warming curries. A repeat \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FTheLondonCurryAwards\u002F\"\u003ELondon Curry Awards\u003C\u002Fa\u003E winner, its food lives up to its accolades too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside is a homage to South Asia with a mini tuk-tuk and auto-rickshaw replica and a bright tuk-tuk mural on the wall. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dhabasw11.com\u002Fdhaba\u002Fproduct\u002Findex?pid=B01000037-12-1\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is wide-ranging but the chaat (\"roadside starters\", as they call them) reigns supreme with favourites such as \u003Cem\u003Epav bhaji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a spiced potato, pea and tomato mash served on a buttered bun. Even the classic onion bhaji is fried perfectly, with thinly sliced onions and not drenched in oil. For something more substantial, order the Railway Lamb Curry; first served on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tribuneindia.com\u002Fnews\u002Famritsar\u002Fgolden-temple-mail-completes-92-yrs-of-historic-run-135130\"\u003EFrontier Mail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E train in the early 1900s, it's now travelled to the depths of south-west London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDon't miss the \u003Cem\u003Epoppadums \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(thin, crispy flatbreads), which are served with three delicious chutneys: a fresh green mint and coriander; tamarind; and best of all, a palate-popping purple concoction made with beetroot, ginger and chilli. Tip: hang onto the chutneys as you'll want them for dipping your samosa or roti in.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dhabasw11.com\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.dhabasw11.com\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBattersea\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E120 Battersea Park Road, London, SW11 4LY\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E20 7627 2582\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fdhabastreetfood\u002F\"\u003E@dhabastreetfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. Mowgli &middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E If you don't eat anything else here, the tamarind fries are a must. They're also just one of many highlights on the tantalising one-page \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.mowglistreetfood.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2023\u002F03\u002FMowgli-Food-Menu.pdf\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FMowgli+Street+Food\u002F@51.5181134,-0.1346175,15z\u002Fdata=!4m6!3m5!1s0x48761bb97dcc4227:0xfdb8dd7aa1b5e3ef!8m2!3d51.5181134!4d-0.1346175!16s%2Fg%2F11s1164cvx\"\u003EMowgli\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFounded by barrister-turned-restauranteur and food writer Nisha Katona in 2014, the restaurant's aim was to replicate the food Indians eat at home and on the street. Mowgli now has 18 locations around the UK (Liverpool was the first) including this elegant spot on London's restaurant-lined Charlotte Street.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDecked out in fairy lights, with optional swing seats (surprisingly more comfortable than you may imagine) and Indian wall art and carvings, there's a warm, welcoming feel as you enter. Mowgli also does a fine line in cocktails. A fruity, punchy chilli margarita and a smooth chai rum sling are amenable accompaniments your food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut the chaat is the overall winner here, whether you're after classic options such as the deliciously crunchy\u003Cem\u003E bhel poori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E with its combo of sweet (pomegranate), salty (potatoes and poori) and punchy (tamarind); or you're drawn by more modern twists such as the Himalayan Cheese Toast with coriander, red onion and green chilli dressing.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, mains such as Mowgli Paneer and Goan Fish Curry are hard to resist, as are the vegetarian and non-veg four-tier tiffins (stackable steel bowls filled with hot dishes and traditionally taken to work), which are described as \"food roulette, total pot luck\". We say it's worth the risk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mowglistreetfood.com\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.mowglistreetfood.com\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWest End\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E5 \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003ECharlotte Street, London, W1T 1RE\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 20 3778 1705\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fmowglistreetfood\u002F\"\u003E@mowglistreetfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. Patri &middot; $$\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you've travelled by train around India, you'll know that food is an integral part of the journey. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FPatri+Hammersmith+-+Indian+Street+Food+Restaurant+and+Bar\u002F@51.4978533,-0.2302119,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760fc93f847629:0xc4cac6ca176824b8!8m2!3d51.49785!4d-0.227637!16s%2Fg%2F11c7428grz\"\u003EPatri\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has restaurants in Hammersmith, the west London suburb of Northfields and soon, neighbouring Ealing, brings to life the experience of an Indian railway journey with design features that evoke ticket halls, waiting rooms and train carriages. Patri's aim is to bring the true taste of Indian street food &ndash; as found on trains and at train stations &ndash; to diners in an atmosphere that genuinely evokes the Indian eating experience.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E The New Delhi dishes are influenced by co-owner Puneet Wadhwani's childhood. His mother, a vegetarian, married into a non-vegetarian family, so the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpatri.co.uk\u002Four-menu\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is big on both meaty Delhi dishes and vegan street food. Make sure you try the \u003Cem\u003Echatpati aloo tikki chaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, tangy, fruity potato patties on a bed of chickpeas with tamarind and mint chutney; the tandoor-cooked Railway Mix Grill seasoned with chaat masala; and the deservedly popular chocolate samosas.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Like many modern Indian restaurants, the drinks menu is almost as enticing as the chaat, serving up mango mojitos and Indian rum punches, \u003Cem\u003Ekarak masala chai (\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea strong spiced Indian tea) and Indian sodas. Patri sources as many ingredients as possible from nearby suppliers, they support local charities and have an open, fair-pay policy for staff.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpatri.co.uk\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fpatri.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHammersmith\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E103 Hammersmith Grove, London, W6 0NQ\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 20 8741 1088\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fpatriartisan\"\u003E@patriartisan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. Dhaba@49 &middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E On a street corner in one of London's most well-to-do neighbourhoods, just northwest of Marble Arch, is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FDhaba@49\u002F@51.5251737,-0.19982,17z\u002Fdata=!4m6!3m5!1s0x487610057e88af55:0x414dcb31fa17ad6e!8m2!3d51.5251704!4d-0.1972451!16s%2Fg%2F11f158hwbs\"\u003EDhaba@49\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This Maida Vale restaurant, opened in 2017 by a trio formed of an experienced chef, a businessman and a master mixologist and sommelier, serves up classic North Indian cuisine on a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdhaba49.com\u002Fmenu\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that includes street food snacks and street food-inspired brunch dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Cem\u003Emango chana chaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a mix of chickpeas with red onion, chilli, lemon juice and mango &ndash; and \u003Cem\u003Edahi sevpuri, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhich consists of a crispy \u003Cem\u003Epoori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried flatbread) stuffed with potatoes, yoghurt and chutney, are palate-popping treats; while lamb kebabs and salmon tikka are some of the tempting non-veg options. It's a good brunch spot too; try the \u003Cem\u003Em\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Easala egg bhurji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Indian spiced scrambled eggs) served with a layered, fluffy flatbread known as \u003Cem\u003Etawa lachha paratha\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe drinks menu goes way beyond wine and beer. Try the minty Jaljeera, a non-alcoholic lemonade-based cocktail with fresh mint, herbs and spices; the Aam Panna made from unripe mangoes; or the spiced rum-based Tikki Tikki &ndash; all designed to remind you of India's seasons and streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor more takes on modern Indian food from the team at Dhaba@49, head to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fchookchook.uk\u002F\"\u003EChook Chook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, inspired by the railway kitchens on India's royal luxury trains, in Putney; and modern Indian restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.balhamsocial.com\u002F\"\u003EBalham Social\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in south London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdhaba49.com\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fdhaba49.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EMaida Vale\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E49 Chippenham Road, Maida Vale, London,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E W9 2HA\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E20 3489 2424\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fdhabaat49\u002F\"\u003E@dhabaat49\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6. Diwana Bhel Poori House &middot; $\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo list of Indian restaurants would be complete without \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FDiwana+Bhel+Poori+House\u002F@51.5270576,-0.1390859,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48761b264221891b:0x17cdd17cceee01dc!8m2!3d51.5270543!4d-0.136511!16s%2Fg%2F1pxq7l8cf\"\u003EDiwana\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a long-standing favourite for many members of the South Asian diaspora for its classic vegetarian dishes that are a reminder of home. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Located on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210907-londons-most-authentic-indian-food\"\u003ELondon's Drummond Street\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a South Asian food hub since the 1950s, Diwana has been serving traditional chaat, dosa and more from its familiar steel plates, bowls and cups since the early 1970s. The interior has barely changed since then, too, with a sauna-style, wood-panelled interior, booth seats and retro lamp fittings. The prices are low, by London standards, and the food freshly made &ndash; the sharp, distinct flavours are as close to anything you'll find in Mumbai.\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E All the classic chaat dishes are on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fdiwanabhelpoori.com\u002Fmenu\"\u003Emenu\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, including \u003Cem\u003Epani puri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a round hollow deep-fried flatbread filled with a sour water known as \u003Cem\u003Eimli pani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and a spiced mash and tamarind chutney. The eponymous \u003Cem\u003Ebhel poori\u003C\u002Fem\u003E aside, another hit is \u003Cem\u003Ealoo chaat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a snack of fried potatoes mixed with onion, lime juice, spices and tamarind chutney. If you're in the mood for something more substantial, be sure to order the \u003Cem\u003Ethali\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (platter) or a crispy dosa served with coconut chutney and lentil \u003Cem\u003Esambar \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(stew).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEuston\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E121-123 Drummond Street, Euston, London NW1 2HL\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E+44 20 7387 5556\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fdiwanabhelpoorihouse\"\u003E@diwanabhelpoorihouse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EA born-and-bred Londoner, Meera Dattani is a travel writer with a keen interest in South Asian food heritage and its diasporic evolution.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food-15"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-24T10:58:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Six of the best restaurants in London to try South Asian street food","headlineShort":"London's best South Asian street food","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From Babuji to Dhaba@49, a new wave of restaurants is introducing locals and visitors to chaat – another delicious facet of Indian, Pakistani and Bangladeshi cuisine.","summaryShort":"Six restaurants where you can eat the best chaat in the capital","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-24T00:00:25.961579Z","entity":"article","guid":"eb4c45cf-6f55-4d3a-8fd3-946e4061468f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-25T23:18:09.976374Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-est-places-in-london-to-try-south-asian-street-food","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220941},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","_id":"6399da64122e040f470b0a20","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"China's biang biang noodles are taking the world by storm – yet the dish's name doesn't officially exist.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA rhythmic thumping sound echoed through the restaurant-lined street in north-west China, emanating from multiple directions, their cadences briefly falling into sync before disbanding once again. I reflexively turned my head in the direction of the nearest thud to see a chef working in front of his shop, swinging a hefty rope of dough between his hands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The noodles were as wide as a belt","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe raised the strand and, firmly, deftly, slapped it repeatedly against the countertop, each dexterous motion coinciding with a resounding thwack. As he continued slamming it, the dough stretched and elongated to the length of his wingspan. Pinching the centre of the strand, he then split the dough down the middle to form a loop, before tossing it nimbly into a waiting pot of bubbling water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECuriosity piqued by this display, I approached the chef to request a serving and, minutes later, tucked into a bowl of thick noodles drenched in hot chilli oil and vinegar and sprinkled with spring onions and garlic. The noodles were as wide as a belt and nearly as long as one too, their firm texture offering a satisfyingly substantial bite. The slapping technique, as it turns out, generates a chewy consistency that absorbs the rich flavours of the seasonings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHere in Xi'an, the capital of China's Shaanxi province and one of the country's oldest cities, the craft of noodle-pulling is so intertwined with that slapping sound that the distinctive noise ended up inspiring this dish's curious name: \u003Cem\u003Ebiang biang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe \"biang\" character is onomatopoeic, meant to mimic the sound of dough hitting a counter. It is also more complex to write than any character in the Chinese language, with a whopping 58 strokes (though, depending on whom you ask, this number may vary slightly). Given how much thought must go into writing it, I was surprised to discover that the character doesn't actually exist &ndash; at least, not according to official dictionaries. That's because the character is entirely a folk creation. Upon closer inspection of the symbol, I realised that it is also comprised of many distinct elements that, together, paint a picture of Xi'an's rich history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHiding in this intricate biang diagram, for example, is the Chinese character for silk. Xi'an was the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, the vast ancient network of East-West trade routes that facilitated the exchange of goods, ideas and technologies for centuries. Along those roads, horses not only provided a primary means of transport, but were traded as a commodity. It makes sense, then, that the biang character additionally contains the symbol for horse and appears to pay homage to these animals' important historical role in the region. On either side of the horse symbol, the Chinese character meaning \"long\" or \"length\" also appears; whether interpreted as a reference to the Silk Road or to the noodles, both would seem appropriate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt's unclear exactly how the complex biang character originated, but its creation is steeped in legend. One widely told story credits it to a young scholar from the Qin Dynasty (221-207 BC) who didn't have enough money for his bowl of biang biang noodles and offered to invent a character in lieu of payment. Today, there are amusing poems and riddles people can recite to help recall of the complicated character's numerous strokes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210201-langkawi-the-curious-island-of-the-strange-colugos\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow kimchi rekindled a decades-long feud\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210325-the-swedish-chef-who-cooks-solely-with-fire\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20171115-hong-kongs-rare-noodles-made-by-seesaw\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHong Kong's rare noodles made by seesaw\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"[They're] kind of a mnemonic of how to write it,\" explained Jason Wang, whose family originates from Xi'an and owns the New York City restaurant chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.xianfoods.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Famous Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"But [the riddles are] also just quirky. It's just for fun. I think people in Shaanxi have a good sense of humour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe mystery of the character, coupled with the shape of the noodle &ndash; whose sheer girth sets it apart from the predominantly thinner noodle varieties in China &ndash; has given biang biang a permanent place among Shaanxi province's so-called \"Eight Curiosities\", as Wang refers to them. These are regional penchants and customs that have historically been commonplace among Shaanxi residents, but may have been puzzling to outsiders. Among them is the practice of building houses with half a roof, the habit of squatting on top of stools and a tradition of eating noodles as wide as belts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's kind of like this self-mockery, but in a positive way. And that's just part of the culture,\" said Wang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn 2005, Wang's father, David Shi, began cooking this culinary \"curiosity\" at what was then a small bubble-tea shop in New York City. His food items, rather than the drinks, began to steadily amass a loyal following. Over the years, Wang and Shi grew their little eatery into what is now an eight-restaurant empire across the city, specialising in dishes from their hometown.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There's a lot of pride in our traditions and in our heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There's a lot of pride in our traditions and in our heritage,\" said Wang. Over the years, their restaurants have not only attracted fellow immigrants from north-west China, but also more and more diverse patrons. \"The food is not just for people who know it. It's for people who want to know it and want to try it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, restaurants like Xi'an Famous Foods that specialise in regional dishes like \u003Cem\u003Eliangpi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (&ldquo;cold-skin&rdquo; noodles), spicy cumin lamb burgers and &ndash; of course &ndash;&nbsp;biang biang noodles are giving international diners an increasingly nuanced and sophisticated understanding of Chinese food. While many Chinese restaurants overseas serve familiar Cantonese favourites like dim sum or Shanghai-style dishes like braised pork belly and \u003Cem\u003Exiaolongbao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (soup dumplings), Shaanxi is one region whose flavours have not seen as much global representation. In fact, for many diners who have never set foot in China, Xi'an Famous Foods may be their first taste of Shaanxi cuisine, which is known for its potent and complex aromas, partly influenced by the sour, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Espicy food of Sichuan province\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the south-west and the salty cuisine of the neighbouring Shanxi province to the north-east &ndash; as well as its wide array of noodles and lamb and mutton dishes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWang believes that increased tourism (before the pandemic) and an expanding Chinese diaspora has generated a burgeoning international interest in China's diverse regional cooking styles. Travellers enjoy certain dishes in China and want to experience them in their home countries; simultaneously Chinese students and immigrants move abroad and search for the flavours of their hometown. The result has been a growing awareness about the multifarious regional differences in Chinese cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There is a growing awareness about the multifarious regional differences in Chinese cuisine","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Sichuan cuisine has become a lot more popular,\" said Sarah Leung, who lives in New York and has recreated many regional recipes for her family&rsquo;s Chinese food blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthewoksoflife.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Woks of Life\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In recent years, restaurant chains like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.malubianbianhouston.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMalubianbian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haidilao.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaidilao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have brought the famously numbing spiciness of Sichuan-style hot pot to hundreds of locations across the globe. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwap.shimiaodao.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShimiaodao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another well-known establishment, serves Yunnan Province's \"crossing-the-bridge\" noodle dish at locations in North America, introducing the flavours of that Chinese region to diners overseas. \"It was interesting to see that [development], to see a wider swath of people becoming aware of these foods,\" said Leung.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENow, biang biang noodles may be serving as a similar entry point for international eaters to discover the gastronomic specialties of north-west China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnother chef spreading Shaanxi-style cuisine is Chao Zhang, owner of London's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.xianimpression.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Impression\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and its sister restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fxianbiangbiangnoodles.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EXi'an Biang Biang Noodles\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"People now are getting more globalised than before,\" he told me. After moving to London for school, Zhang wound up opening his own restaurant in the capital. \"I felt really, really homesick for the food,\" he recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn past centuries, Shaanxi's biang biang noodles were little more than a humble local dish, mostly consumed by time-strapped workers who didn't have occasion to artfully pull thin noodles. Compared to other noodle varieties from north-west China, biang biang were less known outside of Xi'an. But they were a comforting and beloved staple among locals, for whom the backstory and written character were common knowledge.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As a Xi'anese, you will talk about [biang biang] all the time when you're a kid, and your grandma will tell you stories about it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"As a Xi'anese, you will talk about [biang biang] all the time when you're a kid, and your grandma will tell you stories about it,\" said Ruixi Hu, who founded \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flostplate.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELost Plate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a tour company that organises food excursions around Xi'an. \"You know how to write the character from the beginning.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn recent years, biang biang noodles and its associated folklore have become more widely known across China, driven in part by social media interest in the made-up biang character. \"Internet really helps [with] getting more and more publicity for interesting things, interesting cuisines,\" Hu said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, the dish is traversing land and sea from its humble beginnings to reach the hearts and mouths of diners the world over &ndash; a breakthrough that, for many, has been as unexpected as it has been delightful.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"My hometown food brought to the UK &ndash; that's my dream, actually,\" said Zhang.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECommitted to recreating the dish the way he grew up with it, Zhang explains that biang biang noodles can never be made in advance, and shortcuts aren't an option. \"This is the only noodle [from Shaanxi] that is still handmade,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The act of pulling these noodles by hand is, after all, a craft that requires practiced skill","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWang seconds this. \"It's freshly made, it has to be freshly made,\" he said. \"We're not far enough in tech right now for robots to make this stuff yet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe act of pulling these noodles by hand is, after all, a craft that requires practiced skill &ndash; something that the noodle shop cooks in Xi'an who, shaping their dough outside in the open air, continually remind passersby. As they demonstrate the artistry of the age-old technique, the repetitive \"biang\" sound readily cuts through the aural hubbub of busy pedestrian avenues. It's the constant through-line of the urban symphony, its command over pedestrians' senses second only to the piquant scent of chilli oil in the air, summoning hungry diners from far and wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-04-14T22:13:37Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Chinese noodle dish whose name doesn't exist","headlineShort":"The noodle taking the world by storm","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"China's biang biang noodles are taking the world by storm – yet the dish's name doesn't officially exist.","summaryShort":"Its name doesn't officially exist, yet it represents the region's rich history","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-11T00:04:35.234386Z","entity":"article","guid":"b14bbce3-7455-41f4-b077-bd3e04fe3d16","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:25:48.476649Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210413-the-chinese-noodle-dish-whose-name-doesnt-exist","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220963},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","_id":"6399da63122e04760b7ade21","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a chilly and dark morning as I exited the train station at Wapping in East London. Under the orange glare of streetlights, I changed my trainers for a pair of dirty wellies. People walking in the other direction, heading to work in business clothes, stared as I pulled on my plastic gloves. My office for the morning awaited so I turned down a narrow alleyway and carefully made my way down an uneven flight of steps, slick with green river weeds. Today I was going &ldquo;mudlarking&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you find yourself crossing one of London&rsquo;s busy bridges and look down, you may notice that the height of the Thames changes dramatically over the course of the day: the tidal river can rise and fall by as much as 7m. When the tide is out, you may see people scurrying down hidden stairs, ladders and slipways to trudge along the foreshore. These are &ldquo;mudlarks&rdquo; &ndash; and they play a vital role in preserving the history of the Thames by picking up objects and artefacts lodged in the river&rsquo;s mud.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it&rsquo;s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWalking along the foreshore of the Thames in central London is not everyone&rsquo;s idea of a hobby &ndash; it can be cold, dirty and just as muddy as mudlarking suggests. Historically, being a mudlark was not a desirable station in life. The terms came about in the Georgian and Victorian periods when the Thames was one of the major routes to transport goods into the city. At this time, the banks of the river would have swarmed with the melancholy figures of mudlarks, mostly poor women and children who would be &ldquo;up with the larks&rdquo; to work whenever the river ran low.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the tide dropped, they would wade into the mud to grab lumps of coal, pieces of rope or anything else careless boatmen had dropped overboard that they could sell. Mudlarks were a chiefly London phenomenon because few port cities had as large, exposed riverbanks where they could descend to do their work. In addition, the mud of the Thames is anaerobic &ndash; having very low levels of oxygen &ndash; so is perfect for preserving organic material that would otherwise rot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its humble origins, mudlarking is undergoing a renaissance. It has never been easier for people to explore the Thames: anyone looking for inspiration just has to follow the mudlarking hashtags on Twitter, Instagram or Facebook. The \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesdiscovery.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThames Discovery Programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a group of historians and volunteers, run guided tours of the foreshore where &ldquo;expert guide[s] will point out fascinating archaeology hiding in plain sight like Saxon fish traps and jetties that once led to Tudor palaces&hellip; and [ensure] that you stay safe and stick to Port of London Authority rules,&rdquo; said Josh Frost, senior community archaeologist with Thames Discovery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile these tours are a great introduction to communal mudlarking, most mudlarks are solitary creatures and can often be found on their own, staring at the stones beneath their feet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOne of the surprise best-selling books of 2019 was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fuk\u002Fmudlarking-9781408889213\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMudlarking: Lost and Found on the River Thames\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Lara Maiklem, who stumbled into mudlarking almost by accident. &ldquo;One day I found myself at the top of one of the river stairs looking down onto the foreshore and I decided to go down,&rdquo; she wrote. &ldquo;For some reason, until then, I'd thought of the foreshore as a forbidden space, sometimes revealed, other times covered over with water. I found my first object that day, a short piece of clay pipe stem, and I was hooked.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy story was similar. Always tempted to play the archaeologist as a child, I dreamed of striking it rich by finding \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170926-the-lost-jewels-of-bad-king-john\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKing John&rsquo;s lost golden treasure\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that sank in a river. One day, long after I should have given up such fancies, I read about mudlarking online. I ran down to the Thames and pulled out my first treasure: a broken clay pipe last smoked by someone in the 18th Century. Now I can be found under London Bridge looking for Roman pottery; in Rotherhithe searching for industrial relics; and around Putney for prehistory. The joy of mudlarking is that you never know what might turn up or where.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200504-the-tiny-country-between-england-and-scotland\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBritain's lawless 'fourth' country\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200527-the-tree-that-changed-the-world-map\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe tree that changed the world map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200507-foods-you-can-forage-from-your-own-garden\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA British feast from garden weeds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Thames is one of the greatest and largest archaeological sites in the world, and the entire history of Britain can be told from items found on the foreshore. Many objects in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.museumoflondon.org.uk\u002Fmuseum-london\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMuseum of London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have labels giving their provenance as &ldquo;Discovered in the Thames&rdquo;."},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarks must get a license from the Port of London Authority. For a minimal fee, covering three years, this allows you to search in the mud and stones of the Thames and dig up to 7.5cm deep.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhatever you uncover must be declared to Finds Liaison Officers and belongs to the Port of London Authority, but if not deemed of historical significance you may keep what you find.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Mudlarking rules","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"Even a cursory glance at the river will reveal broken pottery pieces, shards of glass and twisted pieces of metal, and mudlarks have discovered everything from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EGiven the lack of funding in archaeology in the past few years, the amateur eyes of mudlarks have been incredibly helpful in pointing out fragile structures emerging from the mud, with the Portable Antiquity Scheme (PAS) having just recorded its 1,500,000th archaeological discovery made by members of the British public.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It is tremendously important that mudlarks report their finds to the Portable Antiquities Scheme in accordance with the terms of their licence, no matter how trivial or mundane they seem,&rdquo; said Stuart Wyatt, Finds Liaison Officer for the London area, who assesses and records the artefacts found by mudlarks for the PAS.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The Thames is especially rich in small portable finds; it&rsquo;s not only their quantity but their quality that makes Thames finds so important. The preservation of lead, leather and bone artefacts is especially good, whether a Roman bone hair pin or a 17th-Century child&rsquo;s pewter toy. These artefacts are often lost on land sites due to adverse soil environments, but the anaerobic qualities of the Thames foreshore preserve them.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EHowever, mudlarking can be a risky hobby. When the tide turns, it turns fast. You must always be aware of your route off of the foreshore. The mud is another hazard: on one of my first mudlarking trips, a more experienced mudlark told me how he had once fallen into a pit left in the mud. He was lucky to have a bucket to claw his way out &ndash; though the Tube ride home was a little dirty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it&rsquo;s the mud of the Thames that makes mudlarking so rewarding. The layers of dirt contain artefacts from every stage of London&rsquo;s history and pre-history. Liz Anderson, a mudlark who \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Famudlarksdiary.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eruns a blog about her finds\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, once pulled a 2,000-year-old Roman nit comb from the mud. &ldquo;The comb is made of boxwood and what I love about it is that it's almost exactly the same design as these things still are today,&rdquo; she told me. &ldquo;It also has mud between the teeth, in which almost certainly there may still lurk Roman nits. When I found it, it was in such good condition it looked like it had only been dropped yesterday.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the river meanders through the centre of the city, untold interesting stories are constantly revealed. On a small patch of foreshore in Rotherhithe in south-east London, you can see tumbled red bricks where the buildings levelled by the Luftwaffe in World War Two fell into the river. Beside those bricks are myriad rusting nails, screws and ship plates left from a time when Rotherhithe was known as a ship-breaking site in the 19th Century.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENearby is a row of wooden jetty supports. Looking closely, you might notice one is somewhat different: instead of rotting from the outside, it is hollow. This post is not made of wood but is a whale rib. From the 1720s, whaling ships ferried their blubbery trophies into Greenland Dock where the whale fat could be rendered down into useful oils. Whale bones found their way into many products, but sometimes, as here, they were used whole if builders found themselves short of timber.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThese items are all on a stretch of the Thames no more than 100m long.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMudlarking is not all about the physical objects you find on the river, however. Anderson speaks poetically of the joys of being on the foreshore. &ldquo;I instantly forget any anxieties or problems that I have for the few hours or so that I'm down by the river,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;Even if I don't find much that day, I love the peace the river brings &ndash; the wildlife, birds, boats going past, the sounds, the way the light reflects on the water, the changing landscape on whatever part of the Thames foreshore I happen to be mudlarking on that day. Even on a cold, windy or wet weather day, it&rsquo;s very invigorating.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut on a brisk morning, when you are up with the larks and a freezing wind is blowing along the grey Thames and no finds are turning up, it can be hard to stay cheerful. Once all I discovered was a used condom and a discarded belt. But the rich possibilities of the Thames continue to draw mudlarks back.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor Anderson, &ldquo;A dream find for me would be a Neolithic flint tool... It's lovely to find coins and things, but you can't beat finding something like a flint tool because of [its] age and how special [it is] to find and hold. Some of them are so beautifully worked and crafted.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMaiklem is searching for an item with a story to tell. &ldquo;My dream find is a complete medieval St Thomas Becket pilgrim badge,&rdquo; she said. The pewter relics were produced in huge numbers as souvenirs at Becket&rsquo;s shrine in Canterbury, and you can imagine one of Chaucer&rsquo;s pilgrims accidentally losing theirs on the way back into old London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe longer you mudlark, the more you want to find. &ldquo;It is addictive,&rdquo; Maiklem warned me. But the bug has already bitten me &ndash; even if I do still dream of finding golden treasure in the Thames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Funearthed\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnearthed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that searches the world for newly discovered archaeological wonders that few people have ever seen.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames-22"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-07-30T04:12:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The lost treasures of London’s River Thames","headlineShort":"A London river awash with treasure","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"“Mudlarks” play a vital role in preserving London’s history by picking up objects washed out of the River Thames’ mud, from woolly mammoth teeth to Roman lamps to Tudor rings.","summaryShort":"Thousands of people walk beside the Thames, but few stop to look closely","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:52:57.353611Z","entity":"article","guid":"261f9f22-4ff1-43d6-91ab-ba8762b0befb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:13:23.226212Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220942},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens","_id":"64517e56122e041ed079999f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Famy-mcpherson"],"bodyIntro":"This commuter suburb in south-west London is one of just three royal boroughs in the capital. But most visitors don't know the extraordinary events that took place here.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn an unassuming corner in Kingston upon Thames, an unassuming town on the River Thames, is a stone. It's no ordinary stone. Protected by a ring of blue iron rails designed to mimic a crown, with seven pillars representing the seven kings whose names are engraved at the base of the stone, this designated historical monument is, according to legend, England's very own \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone\"\u003ECoronation Stone\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKingston, as the town is known, is the administrative centre of the eponymous London borough. Its proximity to the famed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hrp.org.uk\u002Fhampton-court-palace\u002F#gs.ulw0nb\"\u003EHampton Court Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Henry VIII's most famous residence, and favourite filming location for many period dramas such as Bridgerton, makes it a popular transport hub for tourists, though many don't realise the extraordinary events that took place here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's because Kingston upon Thames is no ordinary London borough. This ancient market town was named the first official Royal Borough of England and is one of the only three royal boroughs in London due to its strong noble heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe town's Coronation Stone is especially relevant right now, too. With King Charles III's upcoming crowning, there was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.telegraph.co.uk\u002Fpolitics\u002F2023\u002F03\u002F05\u002Fash-regan-backs-alex-salmond-refusal-stone-destiny-kings-coronation\u002F\"\u003Ea Scottish debate\u003C\u002Fa\u003E over whether Scotland should transport the Stone of Destiny, the ceremonial coronation stone that is used to crown all British monarchs, to Westminster Abbey this week due to a protest over Scotland being denied another referendum for independence. While \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-scotland-65411666\"\u003Ethe official stone is now in London ready for the coronation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, few people know England has its own Coronation Stone right here, in Kingston.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsr11"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKingston upon Thames' importance stretches back to the 10th Century when King Athelstan, the most notable Saxon king, was crowned here in 925 CE. Athelstan is regarded as the first King of England, having defeated the Vikings and Scotland alliance at York in the Battle of Brunanburh, unifying a map of the British Isles and marking Kingston as the place where a united England began.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EKingston upon Thames was officially granted royal status in 1927. London's other royal boroughs are Kensington and Chelsea, granted in 1965 for its long-standing royal links; and Greenwich, which was granted in 2012 as part of Queen Elizabeth II's Diamond Jubilee.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"London's Royal Boroughs","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAthelstan's coronation is thought to have taken place at what is now the site of the current All Saints Church. The location was likely chosen due to its proximity to the border of the ancient kingdoms of Wessex and Mercia, which Athelstan also united as part of his reign. Although no written record of the stone existed until the 1790s, it's thought that as part of the ceremony Athelstan sat on the Coronation Stone while receiving his crown. A replica of this first crown is on display in the church, constructed from an illustration of the ceremony on 4 September 925.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"So, not only do we have the Coronation Stone, it is possible that it was the act of the first-ever documented coronation in England,\" said Julian McCarthy, a volunteer tour guide in Kingston upon Thames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKingston remained the favoured site for royal coronations, seeing the crowning of Edred in 946 and Ethelred the Unready in 979, among others; and traditional stories tell that the kings all sat on the same Coronation Stone. Since no further records on the Coronation Stone exist, it is uncertain when and why the stone stopped being used. Yet, one tradition from Kingston has remained: the coronation \"\u003Cem\u003Eordo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (meaning \"order\" in Latin), compiled for Athelstan by Athelm (then Archbishop of Canterbury) is still used for coronations of British monarchs, including the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, and will likely be used in the upcoming coronation of King Charles III.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsr00"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWalking around Kingston on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kingstontourguides.org.uk\u002F\"\u003Ea free guided tour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reveals the borough's historical royal patronage. Statues of past kings and queens adorn the ancient buildings at the Market Square, and although more than a millennium has passed since the coronations of the Saxon kings at Kingston, the stone remains on display outside the town's Guildhall as an important symbol of the town's past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStrolling over Kingston Bridge offers more stories from the past. Kingston Bridge was once the second place to cross the Thames after London Bridge, and many would have to come this way to access the other side of the river &ndash; including any rebels who wanted to overthrow the crown, as Sir Thomas Wyatt the Younger did during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tudorsociety.com\u002Fwyatts-rebellion-1554\u002F\"\u003EWyatt Rebellion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 1554. The residents of Kingston attempted to break the original wooden bridge to stop the rebels from reaching the Tower of London. For this loyalty, Queen Mary Tudor gave Kingston a Royal Charter to hold additional market days.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith these deeply rooted royal links, and with Kingston already being known as an unofficial royal borough since the Middle Ages, King George V formally named Kingston a royal borough in 1927. In 1965, Queen Elizabeth ll granted another Royal Charter confirming Kingston's title as \"Royal Borough of Kingston upon Thames\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsqz1"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We are extremely proud to be the oldest royal borough in the country, the place not only where the first Saxon kings were crowned, but home to the Coronation Stone, which is said to be the site of the coronation of seven Anglo-Saxon kings and the place where England began,\" said Councillor Nicola Nardelli, deputy mayor of the Royal Borough of Kingston upon Thames, at a recent ceremony.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are extremely proud to be the oldest Royal Borough in the country","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo celebrate the Coronation, Kingston upon Thames is holding a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kingston.gov.uk\u002Fcelebrating-kings-coronation\u002Fevents-borough\"\u003ECoronation Parade\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on 7 May at the ancient market place, beginning with the parade of King Athelstan's crown replica, followed by a community band showcasing Kingston's journey from the past to the present day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENardelli added: \"With our strong connection to Britain's royal history, we are looking forward to coming together with our communities next month to celebrate the King's Coronation, where Kingston's community spirit will undoubtedly be at the heart of celebrations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-03T10:08:45Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Kingston upon Thames: London's town of kings and queens","headlineShort":"The town where England began","image":["p0fjst1c"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.4123","longitude":"-0.3007","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fjst1c"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This commuter suburb in south-west London is one of just three royal boroughs in the capital. But most visitors don't know the extraordinary events that took place here.","summaryShort":"A humble London suburb's proud royal heritage","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory","tag\u002Fcoronation-of-king-charles-iii"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-02T21:19:01.637661Z","entity":"article","guid":"3f98aa24-a1ab-4744-8e93-c7e9467b9465","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T00:04:38.948317Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220965,"destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Flondon","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_london_europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe"},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","_id":"64485e87122e041ed20744f3","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"From the free city rooftop The Garden at 120 to the soaring IFS Cloud Cable Car, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEndlessly reproduced on postcards, t-shirts and mugs, the London skyline is an attraction in its own right. Covering 607 square miles and 2,000 years of history, with dozens of iconic landmarks, the city's sprawl is mesmerising. And no visit is complete without scaling one of its many vantage points to admire it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile attractions like the Shard and the London Eye offer fabulous perspectives, they're always busy and ticket prices are steep. But with a little insider knowledge, you can save your pounds and bag your skyline photos without the crowds. From rooftop bars with magnificent views to lesser-known historical monuments to under-the-radar public spaces, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEveryone wants their holiday images to include a dramatic sunset or bluebird skies, but sadly the British climate doesn't always oblige. Nevertheless, all these places offer memorable London vistas, whatever the weather.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Parliament Hill \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon is mostly flat, but if you know where to look there are a few hills that provide natural (and free) vantage points offering city views with a side order of fresh air.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EA good route is to get off the Tube at Hampstead station, walk through the park to the viewpoint and then down the other side to rejoin the Tube at Kentish Town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most central is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\"\u003EParliament Hill\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Hampstead Heath &ndash; at 98m, this is one of London's highest natural viewpoints. From here, on a clear day, you can sit on the park bench that featured in movies including Run Fatboy Run and Notes on a Scandal, and see all the way to St Paul's Cathedral, the Houses of Parliament, the Gherkin and the Shard. As you admire the views, you'll be in good company; Romantic poets including Coleridge, Shelley and Keats all spent time up here, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFormerly known as Traitor's Hill, legend says the mound is where the 1605 Gunpowder Plot conspirators came to watch the planned explosion of Parliament (they failed, of course). The current name is thought to have been adopted during the 17th-Century Civil War when the hill became a defence post for troops loyal to Parliament. Today you'll find only dog-walkers, joggers and nature-lovers who come to enjoy this little piece of countryside in the heart of London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: free \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Website: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.cityoflondon.gov.uk\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fgreen-spaces\u002Fhampstead-heath\u002Fwhere-to-go-at-hampstead-heath\u002Fparliament-hill-viewpoint\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Hampstead\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: Parliament Hill, Hampstead Heath, London, NW5 1QR\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: + 44 (0) 20 7332 3322\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcolhampsteadheath\u002F\"\u003E@colhampsteadheath\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. The Garden Museum Tower \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you exit left out of Westminster station, battle your way over the bridge (dodging the hordes of selfie-taking tourists) and then turn right, past the view of Big Ben that's ubiquitous on Instagram, and walk along the south side of the Thames, you'll come to a medieval church.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EEntry to the museum costs &pound;16, but you can buy a tower-only ticket for just &pound;4.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis small structure, with its irregular stone walls, arched windows and crenellated tower, is the old church of St-Mary-at-Lambeth. After falling into disrepair in the '70s, it was scheduled for demolition until it was rescued and turned into the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FGarden+Museum\u002F@51.4949654,-0.1227665,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604c019ce4005:0x68b50f18a38b02a1!8m2!3d51.4949621!4d-0.1201916!16zL20vMDUzX2Nt\"\u003EGarden Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The small exhibition space is dedicated to the British love of gardens in honour of 17th-Century gardener John Tradescant, who is buried in the churchyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile you might be interested in British garden design, it's the 14th-Century tower that's the main attraction for photographers. Climb the 131 steps of the claustrophobically narrow spiral staircase and you'll emerge onto one of the finest riverside viewpoints in the city &ndash; with views across to the Palace of Westminster on the right, downriver to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210509-londons-centre-of-intrigue-and-scandal\"\u003EVauxhall\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on the left and behind you, the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. All of which can be yours for the price of a supermarket sandwich and without anyone walking through your shot.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Adult &pound;16, or Tower only &pound;4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgardenmuseum.org.uk\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fgardenmuseum.org.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Lambeth\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 5 Lambeth Palace Road, London SE1 7LB\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7401 8865\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fgardenmuseum\u002F\"\u003E@gardenmuseum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. The IFS Cloud Cable Car\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf you want to soar over London in a glass pod, the obvious place to go is the London Eye. But a cheaper and crowd-free alternative is to ride the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FLondon+IFS+Cloud+Cable+Car\u002F@51.499708,0.0032698,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x47d8a985cc330569:0xd4dc81b5e72dafeb!8m2!3d51.4997048!4d0.0081407!16s%2Fg%2F11tfxt2csg\"\u003EIFS Cloud Cable Car\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (until recently known as the Emirates Air Line).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EYou can use your Oyster or contactless card to pay as you go.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBuilt in 2012 for the London Olympics, the Cable Car ferries passengers between Greenwich Peninsula, home of the ExCel centre and the O2 music venue, and Royal Docks on the north side of the river. The journey takes 10 minutes and rises to a height of 90m &ndash; the highest views directly over the Thames &ndash; giving you a fantastic aerial vantage point from which to admire Docklands, Canary Wharf and, of course, the river itself as it snakes through the capital.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe views are impressive at any time, but the Cable Car stays open late, so you can even enjoy magnificent sunsets from the west-facing side or admire the twinkling city lights after dark. Use it to travel from one side of the river to the other, or buy a round trip and enjoy the experience twice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 15 million journeys have been made on the London Cable Car, and everyone is offered their own cabin &ndash; an initiative that was introduced during the pandemic and continues due to its popularity. You don't get that on the London Eye.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: &pound;6 one-way\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Ftfl.gov.uk\u002Fmodes\u002Flondon-cable-car\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Royal Docks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: IFS Cloud Cable Car Terminal, Edmund Halley Way, London SE10 0FR\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: + 44 (0) 343 222 1234\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftransportforlondon\u002F\"\u003E@transportforlondon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. Seabird, Southwark\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon has no shortage of rooftop venues offering knockout cityscape views, so it can be hard to pick just one or two. But for location, angles and a great experience, it doesn't get much better than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FSeabird\u002F@51.50567,-0.1073501,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487604b6e8b2435f:0xa43709ec9c025b89!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760525060f4311:0x312a91d49a936adb!8m2!3d51.5056667!4d-0.1047752!16s%2Fg%2F11h5l75y0l\"\u003ESeabird\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, on the 14th floor of the Hoxton hotel in Southwark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EA great time to visit is between 15:00-17:00 on weekdays, when you can tuck into &pound;2 oysters and &pound;7 martinis along with the view.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECompleted in September 2019 and costing &pound;55 million, the building sits on a narrow plot on busy Blackfriars Road; a rectilinear grid of square windows crowned by an elongated roof space. Here's where you'll find Seabird, a Southern European seafood restaurant that claims to offer London's longest oyster menu. Inside, the atmosphere is warm, with peach-toned lighting, a marble bar with the day's fresh oyster selection chilling on ice and full-height windows looking out onto the garden terrace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis is where you should head, ordering a beer or coffee on your way through. With wicker chairs, leafy pot plants and chest-height glass panels giving the place a conservatory feel, Seabird's wraparound patio and unique location give it obstruction-free views on three sides. From here you can look directly north towards the river at Blackfriars, west towards Westminster and the Houses of Parliament, or east to photograph the Shard, Canary Wharf and the tangle of train lines going into Blackfriars station.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Buy a drink: draught beer costs &pound;6.50 or small glass of wine is &pound;9; a portion of olives costs &pound;5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fthehoxton.com\u002Flondon\u002Fsouthwark\u002Fseabird-restaurant\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Southwark\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 40 Blackfriars Road, London, SE1 8NY\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 207 903 3000\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fseabirdlondon\u002F\"\u003E@seabirdlondon\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. The Monument \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1666, the Great Fire of London started in a bakery in Pudding Lane. Over four days it gutted the medieval city centre, including the original St Paul's Cathedral and more than 13,000 homes. Five years later, in 1671, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Monument\u002F@51.5101206,-0.0887881,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x47d8a860a1c13fa7:0xda73d20c50b81340!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760353dc103d0f:0xb45b943f7e064b75!8m2!3d51.5101173!4d-0.0862132!16s%2Fg%2F1hf4cpr1k\"\u003Ethe Monument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was built as part of the extensive reconstruction work to commemorate this terrible event that transformed the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EFor another historic London viewpoint experience, buy the combined Monument and Tower Bridge Experience ticket and save 20%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Monument stands 62m tall in a small square 62m west of the spot where the fire started. It's built of the same white-grey Portland Stone used in many of London's most famous landmarks, including St Paul's Cathedral and Buckingham Palace, and is capped with a flaming golden orb and decorated with carvings of dragons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen it was built, the column had a dual purpose. As well as a memorial, it served as a telescope controlled from an underground laboratory. Today, the secret basement is closed, and the main attraction is not below, but above. A spiral staircase with 311 steps takes you to a viewing platform at 49m above ground level, from where you can enjoy magnificent 360-degree views over the river and across the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere's no glass here to cause annoying reflections, but there is a fine gauge net to prevent you dropping anything over the side. This is frustrating for anyone with a DSLR camera but photographers using their phones should have no problem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Adult &pound;5.80\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.themonument.org.uk\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.themonument.org.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Monument\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: Fish St Hill, London EC3R 8AH\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7403 3761\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fvisitthemonument\u002F\"\u003E@visitthemonument\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6. Bōkan, Canary Wharf\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002Fhttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FBOKAN+37\u002F@51.5012027,-0.025962,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487602b8832e245d:0xcb267312d3cac769!4m6!3m5!1s0x487602b89cd79cbb:0x70273837b83ea44!8m2!3d51.5011994!4d-0.0233871!16s%2Fg%2F11csrx1dn8\"\u003EBōkan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a Modern European restaurant, bar and roof terrace &ndash;&shy; takes up the top three floors (37, 38 and 39, respectively) of the Novotel Hotel in Canary Wharf, which at 127m is the tallest Novotel in the world. Completed in 2016 and costing &pound;149 million, it's a shiny glass skyscraper in a district packed with shiny glass skyscrapers, so you probably wouldn't have any reason to go there if it weren't for its crowning glory.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EDon't forget to check out the view from the loos &ndash; possibly one of the most dizzying handwashing experiences in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStep out of the lift on the 38th floor, and you'll discover a chic bar, all industrial warehouse-inspired decor, with floor-to-ceiling windows, exposed brick- and pipe-work, copper fixtures and fittings, and unvarnished wooden floors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe main attraction, however, is up a wooden staircase on floor 39: the roof terrace. This glass-walled, part-covered space is furnished with benches and bar stools, from where you can enjoy an almost 360-degree panorama, with the serpentine bends of the river winding away in both directions, and views of almost the entire city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf course, London's skyline is ever-changing, and Bokan has already lost a portion of its epic vista to another skyscraper going up right next door, which partially blocks the view towards Greenwich. Don't worry though, the other 340 degrees are still more than enough.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Free but you'll need to buy a drink. Soft drinks or tea are &pound;3.50\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002Fbar\u002F\"\u003Ehttp:\u002F\u002Fbokanlondon.co.uk\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Canary Wharf\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: Floor 37-39, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9TP\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 3530 0550\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbokan_bar\u002F\"\u003E@bokan_bar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-24"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-25"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E7. Greenwich Park Observatory\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a city as large and diverse as London, anywhere claiming to have the best of anything should usually be taken with a pinch of salt. But when Greenwich Park touts the view from the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FRoyal+Observatory+Greenwich\u002F@51.4768563,-0.0030751,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x48760281de14a279:0x1dd1c7f0c8af5843!4m6!3m5!1s0x47d8a82a8ca9dca7:0x31abb25f451c8402!8m2!3d51.476853!4d-0.0005002!16zL20vMGMwMDU\"\u003EObservatory\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as \"the best natural view of the city\", well, they're not wrong.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-26"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EFor an alternative view, follow the path downhill to the right to One Tree Hill, which is less well-known and not as crowded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-27"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGreenwich Observatory sits on a hill in the middle of the park, but you don't need to go inside to enjoy its most celebrated attraction. Directly in front of the entrance there's a statue of General James Wolfe, an 18th-Century British Army officer, and in front of him, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\"\u003Ea viewing platform\u003C\u002Fa\u003E offering sweeping vistas across the neatly manicured lawns towards the Unesco World Heritage Site of Maritime Greenwich.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake in the gleaming white colonnades and gold-capped twin domes of the Old Royal Naval College, the glass roof of the National Maritime Museum, and the triple masts of the 19th-Century sailing ship Cutty Sark.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond, you can also see the river, clustered with favourites including St Paul's Cathedral, the Gherkin, Canary Wharf and the Shard. After you've taken your fill of photos, head inside the Observatory to stand on the Prime Meridien line, admire one of the UK's largest telescopes or get a live action close-up of that view in the camera obscura.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: Free (entry to the Observatory costs &pound;16 but you don't need to go inside to admire the view)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.rmg.co.uk\u002Froyal-observatory\u002Fattractions\u002Fenjoy-best-view-london\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Greenwich\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: Blackheath Ave, London SE10 8XJ\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0)20 8312 6608\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Froyalmuseumsgreenwich\u002F\"\u003E@royalmuseumsgreenwich\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-28"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-29"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E8. The Garden at 120\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot to be confused with the more famous \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskygarden.london\u002F\"\u003ESky Garden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just around the corner, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Garden+at+120\u002F@51.5121735,-0.0835124,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x4876034d75affdb7:0x47db8d817eff7735!8m2!3d51.5121702!4d-0.0809375!16s%2Fg%2F11h04nxvm3\"\u003EThe Garden at 120\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a little-known city rooftop where you can soak up London's dramatic city views with no booking required.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-30"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAward-winning restaurant 14 Hills, one floor below, offers excellent deli sandwiches and cakes, or a full &agrave;-la-carte menu, to refuel after your visit.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-31"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe walk-in queue starts in a covered courtyard, where a ceiling screen playing calming footage of treetops on a sunny day makes you feel like you're already outside in nature. After passing through the security scanners, dedicated lifts carry you up to the 15th floor, where you step out into the City of London's largest public rooftop space.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe glass walls reach above head height, so on a sunny day you'll have to deal with reflections, but they also allow you to enjoy uninterrupted vistas of the city in all four directions. Thanks to its central location, The Garden at 120 gives you an up-close perspective on icons including the Gherkin and the Walkie Talkie; you can also look down on Tower Bridge, across to Canary Wharf and even peer into nearby offices.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAround you, patio walkways cross between flowerbeds containing bedding plants and fruit trees, while steel pergolas support climbing wisteria that provides a gorgeous wash of purple in spring. There's also a 200ft-long water feature, plenty of seating and a coffee hut for a relaxing pitstop high above London's busy streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EEntry fee: free\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thegardenat120.com\u002F\"\u003Ehttps:\u002F\u002Fwww.thegardenat120.com\u002F\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: City of London\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 120 Fenchurch Street, London, EC3M 5BA\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7374 4127\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthegardenat120\u002F\"\u003E@thegardenat120\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-32"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fu\u002F0\u002Fembed?mid=1B8FbWA1TitF4XH3B5pwiGGj03uvNlLo&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-33"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E(Bella Falk moved to London 20 years ago to study journalism and never left. Now she's a travel photographer, documentary director, writer and keen explorer of the city's less-touristy places.) \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost-34"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-26T10:12:08Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Eight of the best views in London that are free or low-cost","headlineShort":"Eight of the best views in London","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From the free city rooftop The Garden at 120 to the soaring IFS Cloud Cable Car, here are eight of the best viewpoints that most tourists wouldn't know to visit.","summaryShort":"Get ready for the Coronation with London's best free or low-cost viewpoints","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-25T23:12:53.915446Z","entity":"article","guid":"e40e926e-cf02-44f2-89e4-174778f0d81c","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T02:17:58.397651Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220943},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","_id":"64615176122e041b111019e6","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fnorman-miller"],"bodyIntro":"Few visitors know that London has 640km of waterways – and there's a serious movement taking place to restore these \"blue corridors\" to their former glory.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThough most visitors to London think only of the River Thames, the city is a myriad of waterways. Old maps show a skein of rivers and brooks that provided \"blue corridors\" traversing the city for centuries, providing both sources of food and recreation. But as London boomed, these waterways faded from consciousness &ndash; encased by walls, turned into polluted backwaters or simply covered over to run unseen beneath busy streets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut these \"secret\" rivers are imprinted on London's geography. Marylebone started life as St Mary by the bourne (an old name for a watercourse, in this case the Tyburn); while Bayswater, Knightsbridge, Westbourne and Holborn are all named by waterways that ran through them. Deptford was the site of a deep ford over the Ravensbourne, while Wandsworth is named after the River Wandle. East Ham and West Ham get their names from an old word for an area between rivers (hamm) &ndash; in their case, the Lea and the Roding. And while Britain's leading newspapers have left Fleet Street, the River Fleet still runs beneath.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"London should really be one massive wetland &ndash; a salt marsh on an estuary,\" said Will Oliver, a development manager&nbsp;at&nbsp;Thames21, a charity helping guide 40-plus river restorations. Thanks to the organisation's efforts alongside other groups, buried rivers have returned to the light, while others are being rewilded in ways that will improve the lives and environment of millions of people, as well as provide a key boost for nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl9rvk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETake the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwildlifegardenersofhaggerston.org\u002F\"\u003EWildlife Gardeners of Haggerston\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who are revitalising the Old Lea river at Hackney Marshes in east London. I arrived here through traffic-swirled streets, then walked across a vast expanse of park whose principal signs of life were dozens of football pitches. But along one edge, a line of trees concealed an ancient river that felt like a piece of rural England secreted into grim London vistas. Within minutes of arriving, I was startled to have seen egrets and kingfishers swooping past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross London, ongoing river restoration projects offer volunteering opportunities for visitors:\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Zoological Society of London (ZSL) regularly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zsl.org\u002Fwhat-we-do\u002Fprojects\u002Fvolunteer-londons-rivers\"\u003Eenlist citizen scientist volunteers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to help for anything from a few hours to days in ongoing river conservation work across London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tcv.org.uk\u002Flondon\u002Freclaiming-the-riverside\u002F\"\u003EConservation Volunteers (TCV)\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are looking for people to help restore a 3km blue-green corridor along the River Crane, close to Heathrow airport in West London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EVarious canals also form a part of London's \"secret\" network of waterways, and\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcanalrivertrust.org.uk\u002Fvolunteer\"\u003E The Canal River Trust\u003C\u002Fa\u003E have regular callouts for volunteers to carry out restoration work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002F2023\u002F02\u002Fguest-post-volunteer-opportunities-with-haringey-water-squad-in-2023\u002F\"\u003EHaringey Water Squad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E meet weekly at various north London locations to work on waterways like the Moselle Brook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to get involved","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEsther Adelman, co-founder of the Haggerston volunteer group, explained some of the key work they are doing here. \"We change the river flow and get rid of invasive habitats,\" she said, pointing to fallen trees that have been used to create partial river barriers &ndash; called berms &ndash; that add beneficial complexity to the water flow. \"This creates a variety of habitats, such as areas of gravel where fish spawn,\" said Adelman. \"We are imitating natural processes &ndash; like human beavers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EGideon Corby, another Old Lea volunteer and habitat manager at the nearby \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.biomatrixwater.com\u002Fnews\u002Ffrom-dream-to-reality-a-new-award-winning-nature-reserve-comes-to-life-in-london\u002F\"\u003EKingsland Basin Nature Reserve\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Hackney, explained how planting reeds cleans the river by drawing pollutants like phosphates and heavy metals into their roots. \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003EAdelman added, her voice filled with a mix of hope and quiet confidence: \"We hope eventually the Lea will become home to otters.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBetween 2020 and 2022, meanwhile,&nbsp;Thames River Trust trained around 100 citizen science volunteers to survey eels during the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thamesriverstrust.org.uk\u002Fthames-catchment-community-eels-project\u002F\"\u003EThames Catchment Community Eels Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As well as counting eels on a clutch of London's secluded backwater rivers known only really to those who live close by &ndash; like the Mole, Kennet, Pang Ravensbourne and Brent &ndash; the project worked with 22 schools to deliver workshops, plus guided riverbank walks and wades. It even created an eel-based&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Femea01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com\u002F?url=http%3A%2F%2Fthamesriverstrust.org.uk%2FeelGame%2F&amp;data=05|01||a4d4ac26f9f346135eb108db3abc096a|84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa|1|0|638168351531427872|Unknown|TWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D|3000|||&amp;sdata=YRIiuv7Jk4PeXy%2FxxieGCyPPkdR42PpL%2Bxm6c26mJFI%3D&amp;reserved=0\" target=\"_BLANK\"\u003Eonline game for children\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs part of surveying an impressive 107km of river, the volunteers recorded 119 barriers hindering eel movement &ndash; 66 previously undocumented. This has helped create strategies to support this \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Farticles\u002Fcxr4r45qe3lo\"\u003Eiconic but endangered species\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Similarly, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2021\u002F08\u002FRiver-Hogsmill-Connectivity-Project.pdf\"\u003ERiver Hogsmill Connectivity Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E spurred the removal of 17 out of 18 obstacles on this west London waterway, making it a far easier commuter route for fish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl9rvc"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EFreeing the river\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnother inspiring form of restoration involves physically liberating waterways &ndash; like the Turkey Brook at Albany Park in north London, which for decades had been constrained to a narrow, ecologically hostile and dirty flow hemmed by concrete walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We dug out the whole channel, broke the walls, and basically freed the river,\" said Michael Shorey, senior engineer for Enfield Council Watercourses Team. The result is a beautiful new wetland fed by several hundred metres of now gently babbling brook &ndash; a mini urban Eden that is home to myriad river creatures, birds, water plants and wildflowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EShorey pointed to places where the brook has created new channels and a small gravel beach. \"We wanted it to take on its own course, to naturalise,\" he said. \"But it will move, and we are going to get drone footage in coming years to see how it changes.\" \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECreating these new wetlands also helps reduce flood risks across London, by providing areas that can naturally hold excess water from extreme rainfall increasingly linked to climate change. A key example is the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.firsfarmn21.org\u002Fvisit-to-firs-farm\u002F\"\u003EFirs Farm Wetlands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created after \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=dZq_EZluxaw\"\u003Ethe rediscovery of Moore Brooke\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Found buried within a wilderness in a little-used park in the north London borough of Enfield, this \"lost\" tributary of Pymmes Brook &ndash; itself a tributary of the Lea &ndash; was freed by Enfield's watercourse team to create a 3,300 sq m wetland area that Shorey said has significantly reduced flood risk for thousands of people in the area. Newly planted reeds, meanwhile, have also slashed water pollution levels, with phosphate levels alone down 70%.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl9rv7"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECommunity benefits\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELondon's river restorations are boosting wider community wellbeing too, with schools using restored banks and new wetlands for hands-on, feet-wet education. \"This was just fields before, where kids could run around &ndash; but not learn anything,\" said Shorey about Albany Park. \"Now they come down to the water to see what's going on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This was just fields before, where kids could run around – but not learn anything. Now they come down to the water to see what's going on","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuch public benefits are an immeasurable but vital part of London's river restorations. \"The work draws so many people,\" said Caroline Woodley, Hackney Council Cabinet member for families, parks and leisure. \"It's boosting wellbeing generally through connection with nature, along with education around biodiversity and rewilding.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETake the major restorations around South London's River Wandle that saw it go from being declared biologically dead in the 1960s to becoming the first river in London to receive the EU's \"Good Ecological Potential\" tag following \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.southeastriverstrust.org\u002Fprojects\u002Fupper-wandle-restoration\u002F\"\u003Ework carried out by hundreds of SERT volunteers\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Wandle's historic renown as a trout river also prompted a local \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcatchmentbasedapproach.org\u002Flearn\u002Ffish-in-the-classroom\u002F\"\u003ETrout in the Classroom programme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in which local school pupils raised trout eggs for release in the river &ndash; spurring brown trout to begin breeding again in the Wandle for the first time in more than 80 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Old Lea restoration, meanwhile, has inspired innovative arts in the shape of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsoundcloud.com\u002Fsurface-tension-river-lea\u002Fsurface-tension-album\"\u003ESurface Tension\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a Thames21 commission that saw musician and artist Rob St John create a 2015 album of music and field recordings taken along the Lea, accompanied by a book of writing and photographs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl9rv3"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERestoration rolling on\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2022, the annual London River Week event published \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arcgis.com\u002Fapps\u002Fwebappviewer\u002Findex.html?id=83f16e964185435a8f43773e161fa635&amp;extent=-168715.6012,6565636.503,26963.1912,6828579.8803,102100s%20\"\u003Ean interactive map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that highlighted 144 spots across the city ripe for further restoration, building on the 45km of rivers restored since 2000. Projects include \u003Ca class=\"x_ContentPasted0\" title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fimproving-rivers\u002Frewilding-the-rom\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fimproving-rivers\u002Frewilding-the-rom\u002F\"\u003ERewilding The Rom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that will reconnect&nbsp;a section of&nbsp;the natural floodplain of the river that named the East London neighbourhood of Romford, recreating&nbsp;part of its&nbsp;former expansive floodplain. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAhead of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fjoinacampaign\u002Flondonriversweek2023\u002F\"\u003E2023 London Rivers Week\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (29 May-4 June), a target has been set to restore and rewild a further 5km of waterway each year, which would restore one-third of London's 640km of waterways by 2050.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe effort itself is transforming the lives of those who take part, with a SERT&nbsp;study finding \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thames21.org.uk\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2020\u002F10\u002FLRW-River-restoration-report-Final.pdf\"\u003Ea massive 673% increase in numbers of volunteers between 2013 and 2019\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. One of those people is professional horticulturist &ndash; and Wildlife Gardener of Haggerston volunteer &ndash; Nina Hundt, who chatted to me in a break from tasks on the Old Lea. \"My whole focus has changed towards native species and nature recovery,\" she said. \"You do something good, and something good comes out of it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fdiscovery"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-15T10:21:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A new life for London's lost rivers","headlineShort":"The return of London's buried rivers","image":["p0fn9vry"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fn9vry"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200729-the-lost-treasures-of-londons-river-thames","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230502-kingston-upon-thames-londons-town-of-kings-and-queens","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-eight-of-the-best-views-in-london-that-are-free-or-low-cost"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Few visitors know that London has 640km of waterways – and there's a serious movement taking place to restore these \"blue corridors\" to their former glory.","summaryShort":"Few visitors know that London has a vast network of ancient waterways","tag":["tag\u002Fcitizenscience","tag\u002Fnature-outdoors"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-14T21:23:49.197197Z","entity":"article","guid":"bb8a3a2e-b0d0-49c4-a790-016eca7b3126","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-26T02:24:33.265986Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230514-a-new-life-for-londons-lost-rivers","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Flondon","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_london_europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220941},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey","_id":"643dcc49122e041b09225d80","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Before two earthquakes hit the Turkish province of Hatay, there were more than 30 shops making künefe. The few that remain are determined to keep this beloved tradition alive.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was an early November evening in downtown Hatay, Turkey's southernmost province bordering Syria. The weather was warm, with pleasant, everlasting breezes. Just having finished up an assignment, I met up with a fellow journalist in the old town. After some kebab, meze and many rakis, stopping at a \u003Cem\u003Ek&uuml;nefe\u003C\u002Fem\u003E shop to indulge in the cheesy Levantine dessert was our best option for ending a perfect night.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe k&uuml;nefe's thin, string-like strands of crunchy semolina dough called \u003Cem\u003Etel kadafıy\u003C\u002Fem\u003E combined with its unsalted stretchy Hatay cheese provided an ideal contrast of textures, while the \u003Cem\u003Esherbet\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a syrup made of water, sugar and lemon juice) that was poured on top lingered in our mouths.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile a similar dish, \u003Cem\u003Eknafeh\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, is found throughout the Middle East, k&uuml;nefe is distinctly Turkish, believed to have originated in Hatay and made specifically with the province's namesake cheese, which is similar to fresh mozzarella. Traditionally eaten during Ramadan, the dessert can now be found in shops any time of year; in Hatay, more than 30 k&uuml;nefe shops lined the streets, a testament to its popularity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne could say the dessert's mixture of tastes and textures is a metaphor for the province, a historical trade centre and melting pot for people from different ethnic and religious backgrounds. And in a food-loving place where people ask you if you're hungry before they ask your name, dishes like k&uuml;nefe are a point of local pride.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe owner of the shop smiled at us while leaning against the door. \"Those who taste our food cannot abandon them,\" he said. \"Remember your first time. You tasted our food, got used to it, and now you can't give [it] up. Once you come to Antakya, you are bound to return.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy next visit to Antakya came three years later, but the scene was drastically different.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe square where I first ate k&uuml;nefe was covered with rubble. The once-pleasant air was filled with dust from ongoing excavation work. And a statue of a k&uuml;nefe master &ndash; a symbol of the square &ndash; was standing alone amid all the destruction.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETurkey and neighbouring Syria had been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-64540696\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehit by two major earthquakes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (registering 7.8 and 7.5 on the official magnitude scale) in the early hours of 6 February. More than 50,000 people lost their lives, and more than two million people were displaced.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHatay was one of the region's worst-hit provinces with almost all its city centre and many of its villages destroyed. More than two months after disaster struck, many people are still in dire need of access to clean water, as well as food, clothing and other necessities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, in a city where almost everyone lost family members and friends, life continues. A limited number of k&uuml;nefe shops managed to reopen their doors, providing a taste of normalcy to their resilient customers as they rebuild &ndash; something locals here have done for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese recent earthquakes were not the first disaster to strike the area known locally as Antioch or Antakya (due to its historical name), which was the capital of several empires since the death of Alexander the Great. Dr A Asa Eger, an associate professor of the Islamic world at the University of North Carolina, and Andrea U De Giorgi, an associate professor of Classical studies at Florida State University, described the city's resiliency as \"something quintessentially Antiochene\" in their 2021 book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.routledge.com\u002FAntioch-A-History\u002FGiorgi-Eger\u002Fp\u002Fbook\u002F9780367633042\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAntioch: A History\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, after stating that it had witnessed about 10 earthquakes in its history causing extreme damage and loss of life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Yet the city has survived period after period,\" Eger and De Giorgi wrote. \"Studying Antioch during all of its ages, replete with crises and transformations, teaches us a valuable lesson on the capacity of a city and its citizens to rebuild and to be resilient.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the book, even though disasters had profound physical and psychological effects on the population, they somehow allowed Antioch to reshape, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEngin Din&ccedil;, a k&uuml;nefe master who reopened his heavily damaged shop in a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.aa.com.tr\u002Ftr\u002Fgundem\u002Fmilli-savunma-bakani-akar-hatayda-esnaf-icin-kurulan-prefabrik-carsida-inceleme-yapti\u002F2848048\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprefabricated bazaar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Hatay several weeks after the recent earthquakes, experienced this first-hand. \"It's a bit small after our old place,\" he said. \"Still, it's cute. We are lucky that we had it. Maybe it's going to be the place where we rear up again.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EG&ouml;zde K&uuml;nefe's original shop was in one of the wealthier neighbourhoods of Hatay. Customers remembered that some nights before the earthquake, they waited for their orders while cruising the street in their cars since there were no tables to sit at or a parking space to stop at. Now, the new, temporary shop is barely larger than 10sq m, and the staff needs to work efficiently to prevent chaos in the limited space.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile spreading the \u003Cem\u003Eeze\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a paste containing molasses and butter &ndash; to the bottom of the round copper trays used for making the k&uuml;nefe, Din&ccedil; explained that after years of working for others, he was enjoying being the \"boss behind the cash box\" before the earthquake versus making the dessert himself as he used to do. \"But our master [k&uuml;nefe maker] died with his whole family in the earthquake,\" he said. \"So, I returned to the back of the counter.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis time, however, he had a new helper: Lamia Din&ccedil;, his wife. After noticing that her husband was struggling to deal with the kitchen and the customers simultaneously, she rolled up her sleeves and became the team's newest member.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In the beginning, he didn't trust me,\" Lamia recalled from her first day helping to press the tel kadafıys into eze-lined trays to go onto the stove, which has a unique mechanism for rotating the k&uuml;nefe to ensure even cooking. \"But he quickly realised that we need to adapt to the new circumstances to survive,\" she continued. \"And that's what we are doing.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor her husband, returning to the kitchen and completing the first tray of k&uuml;nefe was the first time he felt \"good\" again after the earthquakes. \"I tasted it, and it was the first k&uuml;nefe I ate after what happened,\" he remembered. \"I said, oh well, I'm alive.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I said, oh well, I'm alive.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EArtisan cheese maker, Lale Kuseyrioğlu, reflected on how life revolves around food &ndash; particularly local dishes like k&uuml;nefe &ndash; in Antakya while talking about the city before the earthquakes. \"The question which finds meaning around Antakya was what would we eat, what would we drink,\" she said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBorn and raised in Istanbul and having studied in the UK before moving to Antakya in 2014, Kuseyrioğlu now produces the area's local Hatay cheese, a soft rindless cheese made from raw goat's &ndash; and sometimes cow's &ndash; milk. She was initially surprised by the city's connection with food and the people's passion for spending hours gathered around large dining tables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I realised that even old mosaics in Antakya were about feast tables when I started to learn more about the city,\" she recalled. \"The food is the love language for Antakya's people. They like having everybody over in the evenings, setting big tables with different kinds of food, and spending hours loud mouthing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd the k&uuml;nefe was \"the sweetest way\" to end a meal, according to Kuseyrioğlu. \"Normally, it's not possible to eat any dessert with raki,\" she explained while talking about the anise-flavoured Turkish national spirit. \"But since k&uuml;nefe has cheese in it, it goes along well with raki. This means that [drinking continues] with the dessert, and the night improves to a delicious ending.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince men primarily made it, \"k&uuml;nefe was also a bravado tool for them,\" Kuseyrioğlu continued. \"There were discussions or braggings about the best k&uuml;nefe or style among the men in the same communities.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack at G&ouml;zde K&uuml;nefe, however, there was only camaraderie among the Din&ccedil; couple. The k&uuml;nefe rotating on stoves created a sizzling sound, and the smell of caramelised butter and molasses filled the air. \"It smells like old days,\" said one of the local customers sitting outside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMost of G&ouml;zde K&uuml;nefe's customers now are people in uniform from the security forces, who are the only ones who can really afford to buy k&uuml;nefe in a city where most of the people no longer have jobs and are dependent on aid and donations. Yet, residents who come back to collect what belongings they can from their homes also visit, and being able to eat k&uuml;nefe \"makes them so happy\", Din&ccedil; said, while taking trays lined with tel kadayıfs off the stove and putting them aside to cool.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDin&ccedil; then placed lumps of Hatay cheese on top of the cooled tel kadayıfs and pressed another layer of the crunchy dough on top. He then turned over the k&uuml;nefe, revealing its bottom layer, which was golden and shiny from the now caramelised eze, and transferred it to a new tray and put it back on the stove.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I believe others who left the city [after the earthquakes] will make our k&uuml;nefe even more popular in other cities,\" he said while waiting for the other side of the k&uuml;nefe to cook. \"Maybe this is an opportunity for our k&uuml;nefe to spread [throughout] Turkey. As the ones who stayed, we can always train new ones to continue the tradition.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOf Hatay's 30-plus k&uuml;nefe shops before the earthquake, only three still operate.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We'll work things out, but we need some help with it,\" said Din&ccedil; after bringing the k&uuml;nefe tray to the display outside the shop. While pouring cold sherbet over the hot k&uuml;nefe, he continued, \"People of Antakya cannot [live] outside of here. Many left because of the conditions, but we'll stay, they will return, and we'll rebuild our lives again.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter almost half an hour of work, the k&uuml;nefe was ready to eat. It was sugary but a little bit sour at the same time. It was soft and crispy. It tasted like the old days in Antakya, and it offered a sense of hope for the coming ones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EK&uuml;nefe recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Engin Din&ccedil;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the sherbet:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E400ml (about 1 ⅔ cups) water \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E400ml (about 1 ⅔ cups) sugar \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp lemon juice&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the eze:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E150g (1&frac14; sticks) unsalted butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp molasses\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor the k&uuml;nefe:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E300g (10&frac12;oz) tel kadayif (can substitute filo dough)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E200g (7oz) Hatay cheese (can substitute fresh mozzarella), cut up into small pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Epistachios, optional\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ekaymak (similar to clotted cream), optional\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1&nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a saucepan, prepare the sherbet by heating the water and sugar until it boils; stir occasionally so that the syrup does not stick to the bottom. When the syrup starts to boil, add the lemon juice and leave it for 5 minutes over low heat. Allow to cool.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2&nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Transfer to a cup and leave at room temperature. When the butter becomes solid again, scoop out the solid parts and transfer to a small bowl; discard the watery remains left in the cup. To make the eze, mix the remaining butter with the molasses until it reaches a thick consistency.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3&nbsp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EUnravel the tel kadayif and cut it into 1 cm (⅓ in) pieces with a knife. Spread eze to the tray (preferably a copper tray or a frying pan (about 25-30cm\u002F10-12 inches in diameter), and place half of the tel kadayifs on the bottom of the greased tray without leaving any spaces between the pieces. Press onto the tel kadayif with your palms while rotating the tray to compress it.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace the tray on the stove over the lowest heat and rotate it manually every couple of minutes. When you are sure the bottom has a golden colour, remove the tray from the heat and allow it cool.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPlace the cheese on the tel kadayif layer and cover it with another layer of tel kadayif. After turning the k&uuml;nefe upside down on another tray, repeat the cooking process, first spreading a layer of eze onto the tray.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPour the sherbet onto the cooked k&uuml;nefe starting from the edges to the centre. Serve with pistachios or kaymak.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-18T10:34:27Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Künefe: The beloved dessert rebuilding Turkey","headlineShort":"The beloved dessert rebuilding Turkey","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"36.4203211","longitude":"35.9090993","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Before two earthquakes hit the Turkish province of Hatay, there were more than 30 shops making künefe. The few that remain are determined to keep this beloved tradition alive.","summaryShort":"After two earthquakes, the cheesy treat has become a symbol of resilience","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-17T22:46:15.694692Z","entity":"article","guid":"d173b769-76ac-4978-a439-f920c209a7bb","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-18T00:39:15.693103Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220944},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","_id":"6399da68122e042edf69dd84","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"More than 85m beneath the famous fairy chimneys of Cappadocia lies a massive subterranean city that was in near-constant use for thousands of years.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(This year, we published many inspiring and amazing stories that made us fall in love with the world &ndash; and this is one our favourites.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EViolent gusts whipped loose soil into the air as I hiked through Cappadocia's Love Valley. Pink- and yellow-hued hillsides coloured the rolling landscape scarred with deep red canyons, and chimneystack rock formations loomed in the distance. It was arid, hot, windy and devastatingly beautiful. Millennia ago, this volatile, volcanic environment naturally sculpted the spires surrounding me into their conical, mushroom-capped shapes, which now draw millions of visitors to hike or hot-air balloon in the central Turkish region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut beneath Cappadocia's crumbling surface, a marvel of equally gargantuan proportions lay hidden away for centuries; a subterranean city that could conceal the whereabouts of up to 20,000 inhabitants for months at a time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe ancient city of Elengubu, known today as Derinkuyu, burrows more than 85m below the Earth's surface, encompassing 18 levels of tunnels. The largest excavated underground city in the world, it was in near-constant use for thousands of years, changing hands from the Phrygians to the Persians to the Christians of the Byzantine Era. It was finally abandoned in the 1920s by the Cappadocian Greeks when they faced defeat during the Greco-Turkish war and fled abruptly en masse to Greece. Not only do its cave-like rooms stretch on for hundreds of miles, but it's thought the more than 200 small, separate underground cities that have also been discovered in the region may be connected to these tunnels, creating a massive subterranean network.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to my guide, Suleman, Derinkuyu was only \"rediscovered\" in 1963 by an anonymous local who kept losing his chickens. While he was renovating his home, the poultry would disappear into a small crevasse created during the remodel, never to be seen again. Upon closer investigation and some digging, the Turk unearthed a dark passageway. It was the first of more than 600 entrances found within private homes leading to the subterrestrial city of Derinkuyu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExcavation began immediately, revealing a tangled network of underground dwellings, dry food storage, cattle stables, schools, wineries and even a chapel. It was an entire civilisation tucked safely underground. The cave city was soon spelunked by thousands of T&uuml;rkiye's least claustrophobic tourists and, in 1985, the region was added to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F357\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage list.\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe city's exact date of construction remains contested, but Anabasis, written by Xenophon of Athens circa 370 BCE, is the oldest written work that seems to reference Derinkuyu. In the book, he mentions Anatolian people, in or near the region of Cappadocia, living underground in excavated homes rather than the more popular cliffside cave-dwellings that are well known in the area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Andrea De Giorgi, associate&nbsp;professor of classical studies&nbsp;at Florida State University, Cappadocia is uniquely suited to this kind of underground construction due to the lack of water in the soil and its malleable, easily mouldable rock. \"The geomorphology of the region is conducive to the digging of underground spaces,\" he said, explaining that the local tuff rock would have been fairly easy to carve with simple tools like shovels and pickaxes. This same pyroclastic material was naturally forged into the fairy-tale chimneys and phallic spires jutting from the earth above ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Cappadocia is uniquely suited to this kind of underground construction due to the lack of water in the soil and its malleable, easily mouldable rock","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut whom to credit with Derinkuyu's creation remains a partial mystery. The groundwork for the sprawling network of subterranean caves is often attributed to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Ftopic\u002FHittite\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Hittites\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \"who may have excavated the first few levels in the rock when they came under attack from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.britannica.com\u002Fplace\u002FPhrygia\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe Phrygians\u003C\u002Fa\u003E around 1200 BCE\", according to A Bertini, an expert in Mediterranean cave dwellings, in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbooks.google.com.au\u002Fbooks?id=YuQZcdbG0HQC&amp;pg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehis essay\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on regional cave architecture. Adding weight to this hypothesis, Hittite artefacts were found inside Derinkuyu.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, the bulk of the city was likely built by the Phrygians, highly skilled Iron-age architects who had the means to construct elaborate underground facilities. \"The Phrygians were one of Anatolia's most prominent early empires,\" explained De Giorgi. \"They developed across western Anatolia around the end of the first millennium BCE and had a bent for monumentalising rock formations and creating remarkable rock-cut facades. Though elusive, their kingdom spread to include most of western and central Anatolia, including the area of Derinkuyu.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOriginally, Derinkuyu was likely used for the storage of goods, but its primary purpose was as a temporary haven from foreign invaders, with Cappadocia seeing a constant flux of dominant empires throughout the centuries. \"The succession of empires and their impact on the landscapes of Anatolia explain the recourse to underground shelters like Derinkuyu,\"&nbsp;De&nbsp;Giorgi explained. \"It was at the time of the [7th-Century] Islamic raids [on the predominantly Christian Byzantine Empire], however, that these dwellings were used to the fullest.\" While the Phrygians, Persians and Seljuks, among others, all inhabited the region and expanded upon the underground city in subsequent centuries, Derinkuyu's population swelled to its peak during the Byzantine Era, with nearly 20,000 residents living underground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, you can experience the harrowing reality of life underground for just 60 Turkish lira (&pound;2.80). As I descended into the musty, narrow tunnels, the walls blackened with soot from centuries of torch lighting, the unfamiliar sensation of claustrophobia began to set in. However, the ingenuity of the various empires that expanded upon Derinkuyu soon became apparent. Intentionally narrow, short hallways forced visitors to navigate the labyrinth of corridors and dwellings while stooped over and single file &ndash; obviously an inopportune position for intruders. Dimly lit by lamplight, half-ton circular boulders blocked doors between each of the 18 levels and were only moveable from the inside. Small, perfectly round holes in the centre of these hefty doors would have allowed residents to spear invaders while maintaining a secure perimeter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Life underground was probably very difficult,\" my guide Suleman added. \"The residents relieved themselves in sealed clay jars, lived by torchlight and disposed of dead bodies in [designated] areas.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEach level of the city was carefully engineered for specific uses. Livestock was kept in stables nearest to the surface to reduce the smell and toxic gases produced by cattle, as well as provide a warm layer of living insulation for the cold months. The inner layers of the city contained dwellings, cellars, schools and meeting spaces. Identifiable by its unique barrel-vaulted ceilings, a traditional Byzantine missionary school, complete with adjacent rooms for study, is located on the second floor. According to De Giorgi, \"the evidence for winemaking is grounded in the presence of cellars, vats for pressing and amphoras [tall, two-handled jars with a narrow neck].\" These specialised rooms indicate that inhabitants of Derinkuyu were prepared to spend months beneath the surface.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut most impressive is a complex ventilation system and protected well that would have supplied the entire city with fresh air and clean water. In fact, it's thought that the early construction of Derinkuyu centred around these two essential elements. More than 50 ventilation shafts, which allowed for natural airflow between the city's many dwellings and hallways, were distributed throughout the city to avoid a potentially fatal attack on their air supply. The well was dug more than 55m deep and could be easily cut off from below by the city inhabitants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile Derinkuyu's construction was indeed ingenious, it's not the only underground city in Cappadocia. At 445 sq km, it's merely the largest of the 200 and counting underground cities beneath the Anatolian Plains. More than 40 of these smaller cities are three or more levels deep beneath the surface. Many are connected to Derinkuyu via carefully dug tunnels, some stretching as long as 9km. All of them are equipped with emergency escape routes in case an immediate return to the surface was necessary. But Cappadocia's subterranean secrets have not yet all been excavated. In 2014, a new and potentially even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fav\u002Fworld-us-canada-38758559\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Elarger underground city was unearthed beneath the Nevsehir\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cspan\u003E region\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDerinkuyu's living story came to a close in 1923 when the Cappadocian Greeks evacuated. More than 2,000 years after the city's likely creation, Derinkuyu was abandoned for the last time. Its existence was all but forgotten to the modern world until some errant chickens brought the subterranean city back into the light.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people-8"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-08-11T10:59:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Turkey's underground city of 20,000 people","headlineShort":"An underground city of 20,000 people","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"38.3745","longitude":"34.7334","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"More than 85m beneath the famous fairy chimneys of Cappadocia lies a massive subterranean city that was in near-constant use for thousands of years.","summaryShort":"It remained a secret to outsiders until the 1960s","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-08-10T22:01:05.983541Z","entity":"article","guid":"f62067f9-d42e-4014-ad5a-e53ef51c613a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","modifiedDateTime":"2022-12-16T10:42:41.85603Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220944},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions","_id":"642c9ef9122e041ca3317749","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Once symbolic of the power and wealth of the Nattukottai Chettiar community, thousands of gigantic and glamourous mansions in Tamil Nadu now lie in ruins.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEvening had fallen by the time I alighted from my train in Karaikudi, a town in the Chettinad region in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu, and there was a light drizzle. As my taxi made its way through the damp streets into the sleepy surrounding hamlets, I noticed hundreds of huge crumbling villas flanking the narrow village lanes. Silhouetted against the dark orange sky, the Chettinad mansions, as they are known, looked exquisitely beautiful but desolately empty.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMore than 10,000 \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Ftentativelists\u002F5920\u002F\"\u003Elavish mansions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dot the Chettinad region, many of them spanning tens of thousands of square feet. These gigantic, often glamorous, houses were built by the rich merchant families of the Nattukottai Chettiar community, who amassed great wealth by trading precious stones in Southeast Asia. They rose to the peak of their economic power in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, when most mansions were built.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen World War Two began in 1939, however, overseas trading took a hit and the wealth of the Chettiars quickly declined. It turned out to be the darkest period in their history, forcing the Chettiars to seek employment outside Chettinad, with many migrating out of India and abandoning their abodes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Chettinad is famous for its fiery \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffood.ndtv.com\u002Frecipe-chicken-chettinad-218316\"\u003Echicken Chettinad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dish and the much sought-after antiques from Karaikudi, but most travellers remain unaware of these luxurious mansions spread over the remaining 73 villages in the region. Although most of them lie in ruins, a handful have been converted into heritage hotels and museums by enthusiastic owners who are working to keep the Chettiar legacy alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore long, I arrived in the village of Kanadukathan, 15km from Karaikudi, and checked into \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.chettinadmansion.com\u002F\"\u003EChettinadu Mansion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 100-year-old mansion-turned-hotel that was to be my home for the next two days. A Chandramouli, the elderly owner, greeted me with a smile and told me that reviving the mansion has been his favourite retirement project.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My grandfather built Chettinadu Mansion between 1902-1912. Four generations including me and my family have lived in this house. I feel proud of my heritage and that's why it's my responsibility to preserve it,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The timber came from Burma, mirrors and chandeliers were brought from Belgium and the marble for the floor was procured from Italy","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I toured the enormous rooms and multiple courtyards of the 43,000sq ft home, I was taken aback by the sheer opulence of each and every component. The mansion had an expansive white facade adorned with beautiful stained-glass windows, while its grand foyer featured an embellished gold ceiling, crystal chandeliers and heirloom furniture. My gaze was soon drawn to the magnificent courtyard flanked by lofty pillars in cerulean blue. A narrow, wooden staircase led me to a breezy corridor where fancy guestrooms had white, iron lace balustrades for balconies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The timber came from Burma, mirrors and chandeliers were brought from Belgium and the marble for the floor was procured from Italy,\" noted Chandramouli. \"The black granite columns that you see in the large hall were from Spain, whereas the blue cast-iron pillars in the central courtyard came all the way from Birmingham in England.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI gazed at the furnishings in wonder and entered my own room to discover a private terrace and walls painted in the illusive \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fculture\u002Farticle\u002F20221116-trompe-loeil-and-the-paintings-that-deceive-our-eye\"\u003Etrompe l'oeil technique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMansion building was serious business for the Chettiars, who poured all their money and heart into constructing their dream homes. They were inspired by European architecture and commissioned local architects to work with raw materials from all over the world. Consequently, Gothic facades, marble floors, stained glass windows and tiles from the Far East became a regular feature in every house. But distinct components of vernacular Tamil architecture, such as wide, open courtyards, raised verandas, richly carved wooden frames and stucco reliefs depicting Hindu deities, were also highlighted.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Chettinad's buildings offer visitors a glimpse of how local architecture can be inspired by outside influences and still reflect the culture from which it springs. That's what makes them so special,\" said Dr Seetha Rajivkumar, head of the department of architecture at Adhiyamaan College of Engineering in Tamil Nadu. Rajivkumar's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tandfonline.com\u002Fdoi\u002Fabs\u002F10.1080\u002F20518196.2018.1529549?journalCode=ycah20\"\u003Eresearch\u003C\u002Fa\u003E focuses on analysing the value of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findiaculture.gov.in\u002Fbuilt-heritage\"\u003Ebuilt heritage in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with a special focus on Chettinad.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn average, every mansion has more than 50 rooms and three to four courtyards. Most span more than an acre, covering an entire street, which is why locals refer to them as \u003Cem\u003Eperiya veedu \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eor \"big houses\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our forefathers built big houses for joint families to live together. Since the men were always away for business, it was important for the women and children to stay together to feel safe,\" Chandramouli explained. In their heydays, more than 70-80 family members lived in these houses at the same time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the next two days, I charted out a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fdir\u002FChettinadu+Mansion,+Kanadukathan,+11,+A.R.Street,+Kanadukathan,+Tamil+Nadu+630103\u002FAthangudi+Palace,+Athangudi+Road,+Athangudi,+Tamil+Nadu\u002FThe+Bangala,+Devakottai+Road,+Senjai,+Karaikudi,+Tamil+Nadu\u002FChettinad+Palace,+Kanadukathan,+Tamil+Nadu\u002FChettinadu+Mansion,+Kanadukathan,+A.R.Street,+Kanadukathan,+Tamil+Nadu\u002F@10.1354304,78.6948562,12.19z\u002Fdata=!4m32!4m31!1m5!1m1!1s0x3b006439d92ba107:0x95ec5cf2ae2d1aef!2m2!1d78.7813025!2d10.1744271!1m5!1m1!1s0x3b00615f8a2e4acf:0x4a686d88a4489b3e!2m2!1d78.7266802!2d10.1541531!1m5!1m1!1s0x3b00675ca0219055:0x4135f1d197faf540!2m2!1d78.7657!2d10.0584147!1m5!1m1!1s0x3b006439a51467d9:0xb449bc9462cb8cfc!2m2!1d78.7793584!2d10.1745504!1m5!1m1!1s0x3b006439d92ba107:0x95ec5cf2ae2d1aef!2m2!1d78.7813025!2d10.1744271!3e0\"\u003Emansion trail\u003C\u002Fa\u003E through Kanadukathan, Athangudi and Karaikudi, hiring a tuk-tuk and visiting a dozen villas in varying states of disrepair, each with a unique history and character.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy first stop was a luxurious mansion in the little-known village of Athangudi. Known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.athangudipalace.com\u002F\"\u003EAthangudi Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this sumptuous mansion-turned-museum took my breath away. As I stepped into its grandiose reception hall, I stood dumbstruck by the sight that surrounded me: an enormous chequered floor in Italian marble, Spanish granite columns topped with sculpted lion heads for capitals, vaulted windows with Belgian stained glass, a wrought-iron balcony supporting delicately frescoed Mughal arches and an exquisitely ornamented ceiling fitted with floral tiles from Japan. The house was fit for a king.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENext, I headed to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebangala.com\u002F\"\u003EBangala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Chettinad's first heritage hotel located in the heart of Karaikudi. I was here to attend an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thebangala.com\u002Fwp-content\u002Fuploads\u002F2016\u002F11\u002Fcooking-course-layout.pdf\"\u003Eexclusive Chettinad cooking class\u003C\u002Fa\u003E but ended up fascinated by the mansion's history. Bangala has an interesting past; it was never a family home like the other mansions, rather it was a party venue owned by the affluent family of Mr MSMM Chocalingam Chettiar, also called the MSMM family. The men of the family used it to host and entertain their male friends. Women were not permitted at the Bangala.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIronically, the Bangala is now managed by the energetic Meenakshi Meyyappan, granddaughter-in-law of the MSMM family. \"I see to all aspects of housekeeping and curate all menus myself,\" said Meyyappan, now 89, who loves hosting guests from all over the world. A great cook herself, Meyyappan has co-authored \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FBangala-Table-Flavors-Recipes-Chettinad\u002Fdp\u002F9351567079\"\u003EThe Bangala Table: Flavors and Recipes from Chettinad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a book that celebrates not just the local cuisine but also the rich culture and history of the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Renovation expenses of Chettinad's homes can run into thousands of dollars. And, this is not a one-time cost, these buildings require regular upkeep and repair","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn my tour, I was also invited into some private houses by friendly owners who still lived in them. A few, including the majestic Chettinad Palace in Kanadukathan, were chained shut from outside. Several others lay abandoned due to unending legal battles over ownership and prohibitive restoration costs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Renovation expenses of Chettinad's homes can run into thousands of dollars. And, this is not a one-time cost, these buildings require regular upkeep and repair,\" Rajivkumar explained. \"Add to that a lack of interest among multiple owners, and conservation becomes a herculean task.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut both Meyyappan and Chandramouli are optimistic. \"Only 10% of Chettinad's mansions have received tourist makeovers so far, whereas 30% have been completely destroyed. It is our job to resuscitate the remaining 60% by working together as a community,\" Chandramouli said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMeyyappan, who has recently kick-started the annual \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehindu.com\u002Flife-and-style\u002Fchettinad-heritage-and-cultural-festival-at-the-bangala\u002Farticle65630723.ece\"\u003EChettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, aims to breathe new life into the ruined mansions by reviving interest in Chettinad's history and culture. \"Awareness is crucial for our conservation efforts and this festival, which will be held in August-September every year, is our first step towards achieving it,\" she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough Chettinad remains relatively unknown even in India, its forgotten mansions are seeing a slow revival thanks to the efforts of local champions. With one simple goal &ndash; preservation of the Chettiar legacy &ndash; on their minds, and lots of grit and determination, the likes of Meyyappan and Chandramouli are not giving up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fheritage-architecture\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fheritage-architecture\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHeritage Architecture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that explores&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethe world's most&nbsp;interesting and unusual buildings that define a place through aesthetic beauty and inventive ways of adapting to local environments.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-05T10:03:49Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"India's 10,000 forgotten mansions","headlineShort":"India's 10,000 forgotten mansions","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"9.87332","longitude":"78.6698","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Once symbolic of the power and wealth of the Nattukottai Chettiar community, thousands of gigantic and glamourous mansions in Tamil Nadu now lie in ruins.","summaryShort":"Most travellers are unaware of these luxurious abodes","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-04T22:04:23.972918Z","entity":"article","guid":"dfa987b4-b730-4c56-bc62-e91a733861e8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-05T04:29:00.3407Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220955},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions","_id":"645bfc74122e041ed07999de","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fsoumya-gayatri"],"bodyIntro":"Dating to the 18th Century, the Ottoman mansions of Safranbolu are an extraordinary – and beautiful – example of sustainable architectural design.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was a sunny June morning when I arrived in the historic city of Safranbolu in northern Turkey. The former Ottoman town was abuzz with life &ndash; an old caravanserai was welcoming new guests and alluring boutiques were selling everything from handmade soaps to saffron-flavoured \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20181003-the-secret-story-behind-turkish-delight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Elokum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (a Turkish dessert). Yet, what caught my eye were the hundreds of timber-laced mansions that dotted the town's quaint alleyways. With gleaming white stone facades, red-gabled roofs and brown casement windows, they looked straight out of a fairy tale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENestled deep within the Karabuk province of Turkey's Black Sea region, Safranbolu was an important caravan stop along the Silk Road, the ancient trading route between China and the West. The city was known for its burgeoning saffron trade and became a prominent Ottoman town in the 18th Century, its cobbled streets chock-full of mosques, hammamsand these traditional Turkish mansions called \u003Cem\u003Ekonaklar \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(singular, \u003Cem\u003Ekonak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, there are more than 2,000 Ottoman-era konaklar in Safranbolu. Many are home to locals, while others have been transformed into boutique hotels, restaurants, cafes and museums. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but these konaklar are outstanding examples of sustainable architecture and socially responsible building design. However, while their importance saw the city inscribed on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F614\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage list in 1994\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many people outside Turkey still remain oblivious to their existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm17gl"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI chanced upon the city serendipitously while leafing through a local travel brochure in Istanbul. The picturesque houses kept beckoning to me until I decided to take a train, a bus and a taxi to get to Safranbolu, located about 400km north-east of Istanbul. By the time I arrived, it was past noon and the day was getting hot. However, as soon as I stepped into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fsafranbolucamlicakonagi\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E&Ccedil;amlıca Konağı\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a 300-year-old konak-turned-boutique hotel that has been welcoming guests for the past six years, I felt cool air sweep over me. It was almost as if the air conditioning had been switched on &ndash; except there was no AC in sight, only the plain stone walls of the hallway.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Safranbolu houses are designed to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter,\" explained owner &Ouml;zlem &Ouml;zen, welcoming me to my home for the next two days with a smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Safranbolu houses are designed to keep you cool in summer and warm in winter","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESafranbolu has a unique topography and climate. The Old Town is located on the slopes of a deep ravine. Summers are balmy and clear, whereas winters are cold and snowy. &Ccedil;amlıca Konağı, like hundreds of other Safranbolu konaklar, is perfectly designed to adapt to these temperature variations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our homes are made with locally sourced wood and stone that provide excellent thermal insulation across seasons, without harming the environment,\" said Fatih D&ouml;kmeci, a local architect who has restored more than 100 konaklar in Safranbolu, including &Ccedil;amlıca Konağı, over the last 20 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I walked through the wide stone hallway of &Ccedil;amlıca Konağı and climbed the wooden stairs to my spacious suite on the first floor, I was surprised by how well ventilated the entire mansion was, even in the middle of a hot summer's day. The \u003Cem\u003Esofa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E room &ndash; a central hall that connected all other rooms on the first floor &ndash; was especially airy and comfortable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm17g8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The sofa rooms of all Safranbolu mansions widely use \u003Cem\u003Ecumba\u003C\u002Fem\u003E architecture, a traditional Ottoman design used to achieve increased natural ventilation and lighting,\" D&ouml;kmeci explained. A \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnottingham-repository.worktribe.com\u002Fpreview\u002F817481\u002F4.pdf\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecumba\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an added extension of the room on an upper floor that is fitted with windows on one or more sides. This structure allows air to flow from all directions and therefore makes the sofa room cooler than the rest of the house. \"In summers, no doubt, you'll find all of us in the sofa,\" &Ouml;zen noted with a smile.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMy tour of the mansion revealed something even more interesting: the ceilings of the guest rooms on the first floor were significantly lower than those of the reception hall and the breakfast lounge on the ground floor. &Ouml;zen explained that this was purposefully done so that less energy would be used to heat these rooms in winter, making the mansions extremely energy efficient. She added that in the past, the people of Safranbolu would have their kitchen on the first floor so heat from the stove could be repurposed for heating the rooms. \"Kitchens have long moved downstairs but Safranbolu families still spend warm and cosy winters on the low-roofed first floors of their konaklar,\" she told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I peered through the tiny casement window in my suite, I could see high stone and adobe walls surrounding the mansion, providing it an extra layer of cover from the strong winter winds of the Black Sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the next two days, I strolled through the hilly, cobbled lanes of Safranbolu and discovered several more Ottoman mansions &ndash; some with crumbling walls and flaking paint, others beautifully renovated &ndash; but all of them designed with a sense of environmental friendliness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm17g2"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.safranbolu.gov.tr\u002Fkaymakamlar-gezi-evi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKaymakamlar Evi House Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is an old konak-turned-museum that once belonged to Haci Mehmet Efendi, a senior commander in the Safranbolu military barracks. With tall stone walls, an abundant use of local wood and a sprawling sofa room, the building was the perfect representation of Ottoman ecological design. It was also a fine example of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.researchgate.net\u002Fpublication\u002F311650828_Seismic_Resistance_of_Traditional_Timber-Frame_Himis_Structures_in_Turkey_A_Brief_Overview\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etraditional \u003Cem\u003E\"hımış\"\u003C\u002Fem\u003E construction technique\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which involves building walls by filling adobe between timber frames. This technique not only improved insulation but also made the houses resilient to earthquakes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most beautiful Ottoman mansions that I saw was the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhavuzluasmazlar.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHavuzlu Asmazlar Konagi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a picture-perfect house that was also Safranbolu's first boutique hotel. Even though it was originally built for a wealthy family of H&uuml;seyin Ağa, sustainable principles were always adhered to in designing the rooms, the sofa and the garden. The addition of an ornate pool inside the house not only added to the konak's beauty, but kept it cool in summers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI ambled down to the historic centre and hiked up several narrow cobbled lanes to discover that the city, as a whole, also had special housing arrangements for summer and winter. The people of Safranbolu often had two houses and moved between \u003Cem\u003EŞehir \u003C\u002Fem\u003E&ndash; the lower part of the city that was warmer and served as the winter residence &ndash; and \u003Cem\u003EBağlar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, city's upper section that was windier and colder and thus served as the summer residence. In this way, locals weaved their lifestyles around the topography and not the other way round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Traditional Turkish houses are built with an approach that does not disrupt the environment or the neighbourhood","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Traditional Turkish houses are built with an approach that does not disrupt the environment or the neighbourhood,\" said Dr G&uuml;lsu Ulukavak Harputlugil, head of architecture at the &Ccedil;ankaya University in Ankara, Turkey. \"This state of being respectful to the environs and the local community automatically brings out the eco-friendliness in the konaklar of Safranbolu,\" she added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm17g0"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was fascinating to see how the people of Safranbolu had incorporated good neighbourhood policies into building their houses. On one street, the rear facades of all Safranbolu konaklar were built into the hill slopes so that nobody's house could obstruct anyone else's sunlight, breeze or view. It was common for houses in narrow, tightly packed streets to have their corners smoothened so that animals and carts could easily pass through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&Ouml;zen told me that it was an important part of their culture to respect the needs of others who inhabited the same locality. That's why they ended up constructing their houses in harmony with the entire neighbourhood and not just as standalone structures. \"Building my own house like that made me a little less selfish and a little more human,\" &Ouml;zen said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&Ouml;zen, who has always lived in a traditional Turkish house, is proud of her heritage. \"Living in a konak gives me the warmth of community and makes me feel closer to nature,\" she said. \"I want to share some of that warmth with my guests and help them experience the care and love that I have experienced here. By restoring &Ccedil;amlıca Konağı, I not only intend to save our heritage, but also teach the future generation the importance of being kind to nature and other human beings.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fheritage-architecture\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fheritage-architecture\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHeritage Architecture\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that explores&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethe world's most&nbsp;interesting and unusual buildings that define a place through aesthetic beauty and inventive ways of adapting to local environments.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fheritage-architecture","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-11T20:19:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Turkey's 300-year-old 'eco-mansions'","headlineShort":"Turkey's extraordinary Ottoman mansions","image":["p0fm17gq"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"41.2493","longitude":"32.6831","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fm17g0"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230417-knefe-the-beloved-dessert-rebuilding-turkey","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220810-derinkuyu-turkeys-underground-city-of-20000-people","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Dating to the 18th Century, the Ottoman mansions of Safranbolu are an extraordinary – and beautiful – example of sustainable architectural design.","summaryShort":"They're energy efficient, eco-friendly and resilient to earthquakes","tag":["tag\u002Farts-architecture"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-10T20:19:47.516876Z","entity":"article","guid":"501090bf-f14f-4917-9d83-2ac74847d2d6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-11T05:39:53.949519Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230510-turkeys-300-year-old-eco-mansions","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fturkey","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_turkey_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220943},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola","_id":"6399da61122e040f4447e5b5","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Created as an alternative to Coca-Cola and Pepsi at a time when Western goods were prohibitively expensive, Kofola is now widely popular in Slovakia and the Czech Republic.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a third dessert option was being squeezed on to the kitchen table in front of four sufficiently full young men, all too polite to refuse a final helping, I reflected on how fortunate I and my companion Marco were to be visiting Bratislava with friends who grew up in the city. Marek and Kubo were back in their home town from Barcelona and Prague for a short time only, and so their mothers were keen to feed them &ndash; and their two lucky guests &ndash; while they could.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat evening we&rsquo;d gorged on the sweets from my friends&rsquo; childhoods: \u003Cem\u003Ebuchtičky se &scaron;od&oacute;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a doughy vanilla cake with just a touch of rum, and \u003Cem\u003E&scaron;i&scaron;ky s m&aacute;kem\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, sweet dumplings made from potato, sugar, butter and poppy seeds. It was when a dark and dense beverage was passed around in plastic bottles that Marco, the designated driver for the evening, looked as though he could take no more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis was my first introduction to Kofola. Although it resembles a stout beer, Kofola is non-alcoholic, and originates from&nbsp;the second half of the 20th Century when Czechoslovakia was a Soviet satellite state. Created as an alternative to Coca-Cola and Pepsi at a time when Western goods were prohibitively expensive, the drink has since gone on to become a national favourite in the now-independent countries of Slovakia and the Czech Republic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe &lsquo;Indian burger&rsquo; McDonald&rsquo;s can&rsquo;t master\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171120-georgias-addictive-cousin-to-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeorgia&rsquo;s addictive cousin to pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190212-russias-strange-bread-sniffing-ritual\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow to drink vodka like a Russian\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe syrup that forms the foundation of Kofola was invented in the late 1950s by Zdeněk Blažek, a scientist who had been commissioned by the state to create an alternative to American cola brands, using ingredients available in Czechoslovakia. The result was Kofo syrup, a mixture of fruit and herbal extracts that forms the base of Kofola. Some historical accounts say that Blažek and his team came up with the recipe for Kofo syrup (which remains secret to this day) when experimenting with ways to use the waste generated from roasting coffee, but while Kofola is caffeinated, these accounts are unsubstantiated.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe beverage is still served on tap in most of Bratislava&rsquo;s bars and restaurants, and the company that makes it boasts a following of half a million people on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fkofolaceskoslovensko\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, making it one of the most popular Czech\u002FSlovak brands on the social networking website.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs the four of us left Marek&rsquo;s family home and gave thanks for a wonderful evening, his mum passed each of us a huge slice of poppy seed cake wrapped in foil, and we promised to try &lsquo;proper draught Kofola&rsquo; on our next visit to a pub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKofola has become so popular that knock-off versions of it have been produced in Slovakia. Linda Metesov&aacute;, who gives food tours of Bratislava, laughed when she told me that after analogous brands like Lok&aacute;lka became available, &ldquo;pubs in Bratislava put up signs to advertise that they sell authentic Kofola.&rdquo; Most people on her tours have not previously heard of Kofola, let alone Lok&aacute;lka, and so when she gives her food tours she is keen for them to try the original version. She hears &ldquo;it tastes like J&auml;germeister&rdquo; a lot, noting that people are often surprised to discover that it&rsquo;s not alcoholic.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we drove away from Marek&rsquo;s mum&rsquo;s house, I reflected that the word &lsquo;fake&rsquo; didn&rsquo;t come up once during our conversation about the rich beverage. Kofola is perceived not as an imitation of Coca-Cola or Pepsi, but rather as a unique drink with a set of nostalgic associations that are deeply embedded in the two cultures. For Czechs and Slovaks, Kofola has come to represent a very specific period of their shared history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"A cold glass of Kofola offered refreshment without scandal","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was against a backdrop of scarcity that Kofola became popular in Czechoslovakia. During the Soviet era, Western goods such as Coca-Cola and Pepsi were only available in Bratislava&rsquo;s state-owned Tuzex stores for heavily inflated prices, and could be bought with bony coupons &ndash; which were produced by the state and were like golden tickets to a world of luxury items unavailable to most. There were apparently local girls (known disparagingly as &lsquo;Tuzex girls&rsquo;) who dated foreigners who could afford to purchase bony. There was even a burgeoning black-market trade in these coupons during the 1970s and &lsquo;80s, and you would hear &ldquo;need some bony?&rdquo; whispered in hushed tones by suppliers on Bratislava&rsquo;s street corners.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA cold glass of Kofola, on the other hand, offered refreshment without scandal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKofola was by no means the only alternative to American cola that proliferated behind the Iron Curtain. In East Germany, consumers could choose from brands such as Vita Cola, Quick Cola, Kaffee Cola and at least 14 others. The Polish People's Republic had their own variant, Polo Cockta, as did the USSR, with a drink called Baikal. Yugoslavia&rsquo;s Cockta, which is still available today, is flavoured with caramel and rose hip.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet Kofola&rsquo;s distinct herbal taste has been key to its lasting success. Many of the other Cold War-era imitations matched the original product too accurately, and so could not compete with the originals when trade opened up after the fall of the Soviet Union. &ldquo;My mum and her colleague managed to buy an expensive bottle of Fanta once in the 1980s,&rdquo; Metesov&aacute; recalled. &ldquo;But after sharing it they were disappointed to find it tasted just the same as the fizzy orange [drink] sold in Czechoslovakia.&rdquo; Kofola, on the other hand, which is noticeably less sweet than other cola drinks, offered a different refreshment experience altogether.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAlthough its flavour recalls a difficult period of Czech and Slovak history, Kofola&rsquo;s present-day popularity is rooted firmly in nostalgia. When I asked Bratislavans about Kofola, it was their happy childhood memories that came to the fore. &ldquo;I remember going with my dad to the pub and drinking draught Kofola with the other kids; we felt like adults,&rdquo; said Martin Z&aacute;humensk&yacute;, a Slovak chef and judge on MasterChef Slovensko.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday Kofola&rsquo;s aromatic taste is still a beloved alternative to the sugary flavour of Coke or Pepsi, and demand for the drink now extends beyond the boundaries of Eastern Europe. There is demand for the drink amongst Czechs and Slovaks living in the UK, according to Anish Shah, director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.halusky.co.uk\u002Fczech-slovak-foods\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHalusky\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a supplier that specialises in the food and drink of these two nations. &ldquo;We initially started selling just a few bottles in 2004, when the countries joined the EU. Today we sell pallet loads, perhaps 3,000 litres a month,&rdquo; he told me. There is clearly money to be made keeping the diaspora in good supply.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile Kofola purports to be healthier than mainstream colas (it contains roughly 30% less sugar than its big competitors, with no phosphoric acid at all), it is surely the sense of nostalgia and brand loyalty felt among its consumers that helped the company survive when the newly independent Czech and Slovak markets opened up to Western competitors in the 1990s. Kofola is now available in a variety of flavours, including lemon and vanilla.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the four of us finally made it to the pub to sample proper Kofola on tap, it was colder and more refreshing than the bottled version we had previously tried. The heavy glasses accentuated the deep brown colour, and the herbal taste was much more pronounced. This was a small taste of life in Bratislava for four young men, two of whom not born here, and the other two too young to remember what it was like when Kofola was the only option.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola-10"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-04-04T16:22:31Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Cold War-era drink that rivals cola","headlineShort":"The Cold War-era drink that rivals cola","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Created as an alternative to Coca-Cola and Pepsi at a time when Western goods were prohibitively expensive, Kofola is now widely popular in Slovakia and the Czech Republic.","summaryShort":"It was created as an alternative to cola when Western goods were limited","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:30:59.978993Z","entity":"article","guid":"bb3e6bd5-18c5-47d5-93e2-0f44de3735f4","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:46:39.193262Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220945},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future","_id":"6399da63122e040f4d0b3809","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On Læsø, houses are thatched with thick, heavy bundles of silvery seaweed that have the potential to be a contemporary building material around the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMost summer days on the Danish island of L&aelig;s&oslash;, you&rsquo;ll find Henning Johansen at work. A native islander, Johansen is a thatcher. But on L&aelig;s&oslash;, a thatcher&rsquo;s job is unlike anywhere else.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENineteen kilometres off the north-east coast of Jutland, the island appears in Norse mythology as the home of the giant &AElig;gir, and, surrounded by shipwrecks, is mentioned throughout Danish naval history. L&aelig;s&oslash;&rsquo;s most unique characteristic, however, is its houses, which are thatched with thick, heavy bundles of silvery seaweed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESeaweed thatching began on L&aelig;s&oslash; in the 17th Century and is largely unique to the island, though seaweed roofs were later reported to have been seen on Scotland&rsquo;s Orkney Islands. L&aelig;s&oslash;, which had a thriving saltworks industry, had been deforested &ndash; trees were burned to feed the salt kilns &ndash;&nbsp;so islanders needed to find an alternative roofing material. The island itself has scant resources and, consisting largely of mud flats and sand banks, is difficult to cultivate, so instead residents looked to the sea.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People are always surprised because they're expecting it to smell or be slimy","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDriftwood was salvaged from shipwrecks to be used as timber and abundant eelgrass (\u003Cem\u003Ezostera marina\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) was dragged from the shore and harvested for the roofs. By the beginning of the 20th Century, most of the island&rsquo;s homes were roofed with seaweed. But, after a fungal disease wiped out much of the eelgrass in the 1920s, knowledge of the technique slowly vanished. Today, only 36 seaweed-roofed houses remain on the 1,800-person island.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESince 2012, Johansen has been reviving the technique as he replaces the roofs, the first in a generation to do so. &ldquo;It's one of the greatest things in L&aelig;s&oslash;&rsquo;s history, so it&rsquo;s very important for the island,&rdquo; he told me by phone from a roof he was working on. &ldquo;It was women's work,&rdquo; he added, explaining that since the male islanders were often out at sea, the women were left to look after the farms and houses. &ldquo;They were alone on this island and taking care of themselves. They found a way to make these roofs, which is not seen elsewhere in the world. So, of course we are very proud of the heritage.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAround 40 to 50 women would work on the roofs together. They would gather the seaweed after autumn storms, then spread it out on a field to dry for around six months, which would remove micro algae and make it rot resistant. When building began, they&rsquo;d treat the eelgrass almost as if it were wool by twisting it into large \u003Cem\u003Evasks\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (ropes) then tying them to the rafters to serve as the base. More seaweed would be piled on top and weighed down with peat: the average roof was more than 1m thick and weighed 35 to 40 tonnes. The women would take chairs up onto the completed roofs, where they would sit and scan the treeless horizon for shipwrecks (and possible salvaging opportunities) and move around, even dance, on the seaweed to compress it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190217-what-to-do-when-hygge-no-longer-works\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret to Danish happiness?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200715-freiburg-germanys-futuristic-city-set-in-a-forest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this Europe's most livable city?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20130523-exploring-germanys-northernmost-island\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EExploring Germany's northernmost island\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThey could make a roof in one day, said Johansen. For his team of five local thatchers, it takes around 21. &ldquo;Because I don&rsquo;t have 50 women.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut it&rsquo;s not only for the sake of heritage that Johansen is reviving seaweed thatching. &ldquo;[Eelgrass] is a very interesting material,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;because it won't burn; there&rsquo;s so much salt in the straw.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile eelgrass is commonly referred to as &ldquo;seaweed&rdquo;, it is actually a type of seagrass, which has long leaves and can grow up to 2m in length. It&rsquo;s found all around the world, though largely in the northern hemisphere. Not only is eelgrass naturally fire-, rot- and pest-resistant, it also absorbs CO2, and as it doesn&rsquo;t require heat to produce, is carbon neutral when harvested and used locally. Eelgrass becomes fully waterproof after about a year and has insulation properties comparable to those of mineral wool, a dense, fibrous material made from molten glass, stone or industrial waste. A roof can last hundreds of years &ndash; one of island&rsquo;s remaining seaweed roofs dates more than 300 years &ndash; for comparison, a concrete tile roof typically lasts around 50.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis combination of sustainability and heritage caught the eye of Copenhagen-based American architect \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkathrynlarsen.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKathryn Larsen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who is currently researching how L&aelig;s&oslash;&rsquo;s traditional&nbsp;seaweed&nbsp;thatching could be updated into a sustainable contemporary building&nbsp;material around the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile studying at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkea.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKEA &ndash; Copenhagen School of Design and Technology\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Larsen focused her thesis on L&aelig;s&oslash;&rsquo;s seaweed roofs, a subject with few English-language resources. &ldquo;It became this big mystery for me because almost all the information was in Danish,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;I was really consumed by that for a few years: I would learn more Danish and then I would learn more about this and go back and forth. It became a real obsession.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter discovering that her school had a supply of eelgrass, which it had received from local seaweed farmers, Larsen started experimenting &ldquo;for fun&rdquo;. She developed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkathrynlarsen.com\u002Fseaweed-thatch-reimagined\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprefabricated panels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to be used on facades and roofs to act as supplementary, sustainable insulation, and installed the panels on the roof of her school to study how eelgrass reacts over time to the elements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In 50 years all the knowledge about eelgrass disappeared","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EShe soon realised, however, that she needed to create a more public installation. &ldquo;A lot of people were really sceptical,&rdquo; she said about the use of eelgrass. In late 2019 she started work on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkathrynlarsen.com\u002Fthe-seaweed-pavilion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Seaweed Pavilion\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an installation incorporating her panels into a wooden structure in a courtyard at KEA. &ldquo;I wanted people to be able to sit underneath it and experience this material in person. People are always surprised because they're expecting it to smell or be slimy, so by having a more positive interaction with it, I was hoping to change that perception.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;What I really wanted to drive home was that this is a really good form of natural installation,&rdquo; she said, explaining that with this type of installation you don't need a vapour barrier, which is not air permeable. &ldquo;You can use a lot of it and air will go through your building and not get blocked, so the whole construction will breathe and the air quality will be a lot higher.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELarsen wants to change the way the building industry looks at older techniques, which were &ldquo;not only better for our environment, by using natural renewable resources, but were also creating buildings that were a lot healthier for us. Basically, we figured it out, [then] we lost all this knowledge and [now] we&rsquo;re building ourselves into a bigger hole where buildings are getting worse and worse in air quality.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBecause eelgrass grows worldwide, she sees a huge global potential for it to be used as a sustainable building material, &ldquo;as long as it&rsquo;s harvested and used locally&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe eelgrass that she used in The Seaweed Pavilion was harvested and prepared by Kurt Schierup, who uses the same farming and drying technique as those of L&aelig;s&oslash;&rsquo;s women, albeit with a machine rather than by hand. Although he established his eelgrass harvesting business \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.moentang.dk\u002Fom-mon-tang\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EM&oslash;n Tang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in 2016, Schierup has been doing this work since his childhood in the 1950s on the Danish island of T&aelig;r&oslash;, when eelgrass was exported internationally for use in upholstery, insulation and mattresses. It&rsquo;s a nugget of history that underscores how common a material eelgrass used to be.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;When I was a kid, 50 years ago,&rdquo; said Johansen, &ldquo;everybody was sleeping on eelgrass in Denmark. But then then the plastic came, very cheap. So, in 50 years all the knowledge about eelgrass disappeared&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn L&aelig;s&oslash;, Johansen still has 10 more roofs to replace. It&rsquo;s been a long project, but one that he says he doesn&rsquo;t want to finish &ldquo;because it's much easier to tell you the history when you come and see me repair old houses&rdquo;. Visitors to L&aelig;s&oslash; are invited to watch him at work on weekdays during the summer where they can see first-hand &ldquo;the way it works, the material, and how interesting it is&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEelgrass is part of the world&rsquo;s heritage, he said. &ldquo;You can come to L&aelig;s&oslash; and I can show you your own history from your country&rdquo; because it was once commonly used around the world &ndash; everywhere from the Dutch Wadden Sea where it was used for \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Flink.springer.com\u002Farticle\u002F10.1007\u002Fs10152-004-0204-4\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebuilding sea walls\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to New England where homes were insulated with Cabot&rsquo;s Quilt, a thermal and sound insulator made of dried eelgrass.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It has a big history, which was very quickly forgotten and now I'm starting to tell it again. It's very easy to tell when you stand beside a very old roof, looking at it, and people say, &lsquo;what a funny material&rsquo;.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fheritage-architecture\"\u003EHeritage Architecture\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a BBC Travel series that explores \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003Ethe world's most interesting and unusual buildings that define a place through aesthetic beauty and inventive ways of adapting to local environments.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-06T21:03:04Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Denmark’s 300-year-old homes of the future","headlineShort":"The 300-year-old homes of the future","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On Læsø, houses are thatched with thick, heavy bundles of silvery seaweed that have the potential to be a contemporary building material around the world.","summaryShort":"These buildings may be a lot healthier for us to live in","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:53:17.483095Z","entity":"article","guid":"b5812a50-9377-4192-a41d-bb9d04b2ef89","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future","modifiedDateTime":"2022-08-10T16:16:03.669369Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220945},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now","_id":"6399da69122e0461dd06abcf","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Denmark, the Nordic concept of friluftsliv – or unwinding in the outdoors – includes troll hunts, shoreline biking and stargazing in Scandinavia's first International Dark Sky Park.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn a rainy Sunday I found myself in Copenhagen's Nordhavn (North Harbour) area, standing in front of Kaptajn Nalle. The giant troll sculpture looked tired from dragging his boat on a rope. I could relate; I was jetlagged and still recovering from Covid fatigue. I was in need of some unwinding in nature, determined to embark on a few Nordic \u003Cem\u003Efriluftsliv\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;adventures and find a little peace and rejuvenation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENorwegian playwright and poet Henrik Ibsen popularised the term \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fworklife\u002Farticle\u002F20171211-friluftsliv-the-nordic-concept-of-getting-outdoors\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efriluftsliv\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" in the 1850s to describe the value of spending time in remote locations for spiritual and physical wellbeing. It literally translates to \"open-air living\", and today, Scandinavians value connecting to nature in different ways &ndash; something we all need right now as we emerge from an era of lockdowns and inactivity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDuring the pandemic in Denmark, Danes were lured outdoors in an inventive way &ndash; by trolls. World-renowned recycle artist \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthomasdambo.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThomas Dambo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E created 10 new sculptures around the country in a project he called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCMR_RFNKP0z\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Great Troll Folk Fest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (trolls were an apt subject for Dambo, who'd placed a series of \"giants\" around Copenhagen in 2016 and 2017). His goal was to encourage Danes to explore nature through a troll treasure hunt, complete with a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftrollmap.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etroll map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I don't think I would have made trolls if I didn't come from Denmark,\" Dambo said, noting that trolls are used in Danish folklore to explain the unexplained. \"My sculptures, they pull people outside. For me, that's what my project is. It gives people an opportunity to explore.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDisappointed by the cancellation of his scheduled projects around the world due to the pandemic, Dambo started planning The Great Troll Folk Fest instead and went dumpster-diving for materials as a way to lift his own spirits and also to reconnect with Denmark's great outdoors. With no budget, he posted about the project on social media and received help from unexpected places, including donated materials and a plethora of volunteers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We had a little bit of the Forrest Gump running across America,\" Dambo said. \"More and more people just joined in.\" The end result is a series of whimsical giant creatures hidden in forests, tucked between trees, next to bridges and even fishing in a river.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo hunt for Dambo's first pandemic troll, I took the M4 metro to the last stop, Orientkaj, and walked through industrial areas filled with shipping containers to an open area. The old harbour of Copenhagen is undergoing commercial development, and a highway tunnel will be built in the area where Dambo's old workshop is located, not far from Kaptajn Nalle. In a fairy tale in Dambo's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthomasdambo.com\u002Fproduct\u002Ftrail-of-a-1000-trolls-the-trolliefolkyfest\u002F)\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Trail of a 1000 Trolls: The Trolliefolkyfest, Kaptajn Nalle wakes up from a long nap to discover that while he was sleeping, urban development caused the harbour to fill up with rubble and now the shoreline moved three miles out. \"That is why Kaptajn Nalle is pulling his boat back to the shore,\" Dambo said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter finding Kaptajn Nalle, I could tell that there was something to this friluftsliv &ndash;&nbsp;I was already feeling energised by exploring outside and allowing myself to be surprised and delighted by what I found, including connecting with other troll hunters. So, the next obvious step was to leave the city and delve deeper into Denmark's nature.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI headed south via train and a bus to spend some time on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbalticseacycleroute.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E&Oslash;sters&oslash;ruten\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Baltic Sea Cycle Route), the longest national cycling route in Denmark, at 820km. On two wheels, I crossed over the bustling Queen Alexandrine Bridge to the rural island of M&oslash;n, where cows were my companions instead of cars. Surrounded by an open landscape, I felt my body exhale.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAn hour of pastoral riding was so restorative that I almost didn't want to stop, but the promise of an outdoor shower and expansive views at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bygagergaard.dk\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBygagergaard\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, my home for the night, suggested there were more ways to experience friluftsliv&nbsp;than on a bike. The 1861 farm has been recently revamped by Anna Falch to include glamping tents, al fresco showers and baths, and an old circus wagon that has been converted into a sauna.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Taking away some of the luxury invites connection to yourself, nature and other people,\" said Falch, who opened a yoga studio in Copenhagen before moving to the island five years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEven at night, M&oslash;n provides visitors with a way to connect to nature. This island and the smaller nearby island of Nyord were the first places in the world to simultaneously become both an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.darksky.org\u002Fmon-and-nyord-designated-scandinavias-first-ida-dark-sky-places\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInternational Dark Sky Community and an International Dark Sky Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; the former designation protects the developed part of the islands, and the latter the wilderness. Sheltered from light pollution and surrounded by the Baltic Sea, M&oslash;n boasts some of the world's best stargazing &ndash; usually.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat night, however, cloud cover concealed the heavens. Nevertheless, biologist and Dark Sky guide Susanne Rosenild, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnaturguidemoen.dk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENaturguide M&oslash;n\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, took me on a walk to the Ulvshale (\"wolf's tail\") forest on the Ulvshale Peninsula in M&oslash;n's north-western corner to experience natural darkness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt was nearly pitch black; I heard waves crashing, but soon, there were only forest sounds. Crickets sang the loudest; it was mating season, and males vied for attention from females.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The life we are living today, we have artificial light with us all the time,\" Rosenild said. \"So our eyes are being used to orient where we are. When you cut off that sense, you will naturally sharpen your other senses to be able to orient yourself. Your feet will start showing you the way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERosenild shuffled her shoes on the gravel path into the woods so I could follow her with my ears. I stumbled a few times, and bumped into her heels, anxious to keep up. It was deeply unsettling not knowing my surroundings; I couldn't even see outlines of trees overhead.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Our hormonal system and our senses are adjusting to the actual natural darkness,\" Rosenild explained. \"People with stress, they really enjoy coming into the wild forest. The whole system reboots.\" When we emerged from the forest, I felt incredibly present and alert. \"People experience an intense being, right here and now,\" Rosenild said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"People with stress, they really enjoy coming into the wild forest. The whole system reboots.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDuring the day, one of M&oslash;n's biggest draws is its famous chalk cliffs, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoensklint.dk\u002Fuk\u002Fnature\u002Funesco-biosphere\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EM&oslash;ns Klint\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which rise 128m above the sea; they're also a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. Even though I'm slightly scared of heights, I came here because I couldn't miss seeing one of Denmark's most striking natural wonders, a testament to the powerful forces of nature that shaped the country.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"This chalk was created 70 million years ago,\" said Louise Purup N&oslash;hr, a guide at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmoensklint.dk\u002Fgeocentermoensklintuk.aspx\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeoCenter M&oslash;ns Klint\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She explained that the chalk layer underlying Denmark was created by microscopic algae that had shells; when the algae died, their shells sank to the seabed and helped form the chalk layer. The cliffs are one of the few places where you can see the exposed material.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENo one told me about the steps. There are five steep staircases leading down to the beach at the base of the cliffs. The main staircase has 499 steps, but N&oslash;hr said the water level was too high and we wouldn't be able to walk there, so we opted for another staircase further into the woods. This one still had 474 steps &ndash; I counted &ndash; with messages written in chalk on the railings along the way: MIND OVER BODY; IF YOU THINK IT CAN'T GET ANY WORSE; REMEMBER TO BREATHE.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we finally reached the beach, N&oslash;hr showed me some fossils of sea urchins and sponges. Seeing the remains of the distant past against the backdrop of the majestic cliffs and expanse of sea reminded me of our relative insignificance. I was humbled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EExhausted, I was reluctant to get back on my bike, but I craved a long rest in one of the wool-insulated \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.egnbb.dk\u002Fen\u002Fglamping\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eglamping pods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Egn Bed &amp; Breakfast, which opened in 2021. Google Maps showed the fastest biking route had a section along the sea, and I opted for that scenic and expedient way. However, when I reached a field, I paused; there were bike tracks in the grass, but I couldn't make out any clear path. Feeling intrepid, I rode on into higher and higher grass. After a few minutes, though, my wheel caught on a trampled fence wire and I tumbled into stinging nettles. Ahead was a thick wall of greenery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI recalled something Dambo had said about his troll hunt: \"Of course they will find my sculptures, but they will also have to try to find their way, and then they will find a lot of other things on that journey.\" In this case, I had discovered a dead end; sometimes you need to figure out another way. Retracing my path through the field and back onto a bumpy gravel road, I eventually found Egn, where a warm welcome and a hot shower made me feel like a new person.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBefore departing the next morning, I visited that nearby beach where the biking path was supposed to lead, a stretch of pristine sand with clear, tranquil water that shimmered under the open sky. N&oslash;hr's words echoed through my mind: \"You have to get lost in nature sometimes to find the really beautiful places.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fslowcomotion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESlowcomotion\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates slow, self-propelled travel and invites readers to get outside and reconnect with the world in a safe and sustainable way.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-10-13T10:38:25Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The Danish tradition we all need now","headlineShort":"The Danish tradition we all need now","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"54.9696921","longitude":"12.1883802","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Denmark, the Nordic concept of friluftsliv – or unwinding in the outdoors – includes troll hunts, shoreline biking and stargazing in Scandinavia's first International Dark Sky Park.","summaryShort":"For their wellbeing, Danes value spending time in nature – and with trolls","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-10-12T20:39:25.421017Z","entity":"article","guid":"2c17bd2e-4f56-4645-843e-54f46d300bc8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now","modifiedDateTime":"2022-10-13T13:22:38.912909Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220946},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker","_id":"645027fc122e041b0a5b969c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fadrienne-murray-nielsen"],"bodyIntro":"A top-secret atomic bunker has opened to the public in Denmark. Built to withstand a nuclear attack, it's now an astonishing subterranean museum that sheds light on Cold War paranoia.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EHidden in northern Jutland's Rold Forest, some 400km north-west of Copenhagen, is the sprawling bunker complex of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnordjyskemuseer.dk\u002Fu\u002Fregan-vest\u002F\"\u003EKoldrigsmuseet REGAN Vest\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Cold War Museum REGAN West). Secretly built in the 1960s at the height of Cold War tensions, this is where the Danish government and even the queen would have been evacuated if nuclear war had broken out.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe plan was to run the country from inside this shelter, 60m below ground, and its very existence was kept hushed for decades until it was finally revealed in 2012. After years of preparations, it opened to the public for the first time in February 2023 as a museum. Only 50,000 visitors are permitted annually, and access has been limited to small groups of 10 on 90-minute guided tours that explore 2km of the labyrinthine bunker system. It's an eye-opening journey into the heart of a Cold War-era time capsule.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EStepping out of the train station in the small town of Sk&oslash;rping, I jumped straight into a taxi for the short ride to Rold Forest. The local driver had never heard of the mysterious bunker, and with no phone signal, we ended up driving around in circles trying to find it. Luckily, before long we chanced upon the road leading towards a cluster of dark metal and glass buildings partly obscured in the hillside that's home to the smart new visitor centre.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EUnder towering woodland and a brilliant blue sky, I trampled along a short track to the bunker's entrance, a spot that would once have been guarded by policemen armed with pistols and hand grenades. The weathered concrete doorframe had turned green with moss and damp, and it was so ordinary looking that the expansive tunnel network it concealed was all the more astounding.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjspgn"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"This was part of keeping it secret,\" said Bodil Frandsen, museum curator and historian, as she welcomed me inside with her colleague, Lars Christian N&oslash;rbach, North Jutland Museums' director.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EEntering the tunnel, I felt as though I was stepping into a secret parallel universe. I'd never seen anywhere quite like it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\"Listen,\" said N&oslash;rbach, as the door thudded shut, sealing off the last rays of natural light and sending an echo reverberating down the 300m-long tunnel ahead of us. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EMy sense of anticipation only grew as we continued along the passageway that was carved into the chalk and limestone hillside. What was only a few minutes' walk felt much longer as we tracked the curving, ribbed walls that were designed to slow down the pressure wave of a nuclear blast.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EEventually we reached a pair of heavy, air-tight doors that marked the beginning of the actual bunker. Our first stop was the engine room, where diesel generators would keep the facility running. Once sealed off from the outside world, there would be sufficient electricity, recycled air and other supplies for 10 days, explained Frandsen, likening it to a submarine, \"just on land\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"You'd never seen a weapon like it. It was just way stronger and way more devastating. It demanded a new way of thinking and planning","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThe Cold War was a period of acute political and military tension between Western and Eastern blocs, aligned with the US and Soviet Union, that spanned from shortly after World War Two until the early 1990s, triggering a nuclear arms race. After Soviet testing of a potentially catastrophic hydrogen bomb &ndash; and later the Cuban Missile Crisis &ndash; fears of Armageddon were fuelled further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsph5"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"You'd never seen a weapon like it,\" posited Frandsen. \"It was just way stronger and way more devastating. It demanded a new way of thinking and planning.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EA NATO member since 1949, Denmark's location at the mouth of the Baltic Sea was (and still is) strategically important, but its proximity to the Iron Curtain also made it vulnerable, which is why the country prepared for the worst. Construction of REGAN Vest began in 1963 and was completed five years later.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe resulting nuclear-proof bunker was a staggering 5,500sq m behemoth, shaped like two large, connected rings, each with an upper and lower floor, and more than 230 rooms that would house around 350 personnel. Mostly these would be ministers and civil servants, part of a slimmed down administration tasked with running the nation's affairs during the darkest of times, plus a few medical staff, several journalists and a priest.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAs we navigated a bleak corridor, I was dumfounded by the sight of untouched offices still equipped with old-fashioned telephones and stationery, a communication room and small radio studio, all frozen in time. Much of the decor stemmed from the 1960s and '70s, including dozens of original classic chairs by iconic Danish designer Arne Jacobsen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"It's a different world here,\" remarked N&oslash;rbach. \"What's special here is that this bunker stands authentic. It's kind of a time capsule. Quite a huge time capsule.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsphw"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EAnd that's why REGAN Vest is so unique. Other government bunkers exist, he explained, but have been updated, had contents removed, or aren't open to the public.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThankfully World War Three didn't occur and the facility was only used for practice drills, though it remained on standby right until 2003, when it was eventually taken out of service. Nine years later, the long-held secret came to an end and then came almost decade-long preparations to preserve the bunker as museum. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAlthough I have memories of the Berlin Wall falling, as a 1980s child, the Cold War was an era I'd never really known. However, entering the bunker's \"Situation Room\" was a stark lesson. Military maps of Scandinavia and the Soviet Union covered the walls, ready for meetings that never took place.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"If you look at the map, and remember how the division in Germany was, then Denmark is a frontline country,\" explained Frandsen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EThis was a time of fear and paranoia, but also preparedness. From basements in kindergartens to military forts, approximately 14,000 Cold War-era structures were erected across Denmark &ndash; and I was surprised to learn that another similarly large complex exists, called Regan &Oslash;st (East).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"I cannot tell you much more about that, because it's still in operation and it's kept secret,\" said Frandsen.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjspkr"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EMoving along the rounded hallways of the residential quarters was somewhat disorientating. And but for the stairwells painted green, blue, yellow and orange, it would have been easy to get lost. I caught glimpses of a surreal life: austere rooms with bunk beds; hard hats still standing ready.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003E\"This is the VIP room. There's carpet on the floor,\" N&oslash;rbach announced, as we entered a larger spartan bedroom with two single beds, its own bathroom and small office. These unlikely quarters were intended for Queen Margrethe. She had, in fact, visited once, I was told, and had even approved the wall paintings in her room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe sleek lounge was perhaps the most vivid timepiece of all. Furnishings, light fittings and wallpaper, all emerald green, seemed straight from the pages of a 1970s magazine. And among the shelves of videotapes and books was a humorous touch: a copy of the James Bond novel \"From Russia with Love\". As we walked, I thought about the West's current geopolitical tensions with Russia and how the museum's opening seems particularly timely.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"Body\"\u003EOur underground journey drew to a close inside the cafeteria where rows of identical black lampshades hung low over tables and photorealistic wallpaper depicted a forest scene. Piped birdsong had once played from a cassette machine, part of a surreal upgrade to improve the wellbeing of the few workers who occasionally came here, isolated deep beneath ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fjsplg"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EAfterwards, I lingered at the visitor centre where the exhibition delves further into Cold War history and society, and then entered the nearby Machinist's House, a typical yellow-brick property. It's been refurbished with 1980s decor and paraphernalia but was once home to an engineer who maintained the bunker. He'd lived there with his family until 2010, with a top-secret facility just beyond their backyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003EThe fact it stayed hidden for half a century is remarkable and I was curious to know what locals thought about it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\"People can't wait to go down and finally see what it is,\" Frandsen answered.\u003Cspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"BodyA\"\u003E\"Many of them say, 'I knew it',\" N&oslash;rbach laughed. \"But don't believe them. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker-12"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-02T10:57:53Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"REGAN Vest: Inside Denmark's secret nuclear bunker","headlineShort":"A Cold War time capsule is now open","image":["p0fjsr2x"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"56.8379","longitude":"9.8927","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fjspf5"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190329-the-cold-war-era-drink-that-rivals-cola","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200805-denmarks-300-year-old-homes-of-the-future","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20221012-the-danish-tradition-we-all-need-now"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"A top-secret atomic bunker has opened to the public in Denmark. Built to withstand a nuclear attack, it's now an astonishing subterranean museum that sheds light on Cold War paranoia.","summaryShort":"Only 50,000 visitors are permitted each year","tag":["tag\u002Funderground-spaces","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-01T20:58:18.287126Z","entity":"article","guid":"3c838811-69f4-47f5-9576-025991e031e9","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T07:59:57.233192Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230501-regan-vest-inside-denmarks-secret-nuclear-bunker","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fdenmark","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_denmark_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220944},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","_id":"6399da63122e04761616a2ec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"By claiming South Korea's national dish as its own, China may have angered the internet, but at least now the world has heard about \"pao cai\".","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen it comes to popular pickled condiments, Germans have sauerkraut, Indians have achaar and Koreans have kimchi. The fiery fermented food is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-25840493\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESouth Korea's national dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the tradition of making and sharing it is listed as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fich.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002FRL\u002Fkimjang-making-and-sharing-kimchi-in-the-republic-of-korea-00881\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that \"reaffirms Korean identity\", and the dish is an integral part of every meal &ndash; so much so that when South Korea launched its first astronaut to space in 2008, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Fasia-pacific\u002F7243066.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eit sent kimchi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut in recent weeks, South Korea's claim to one of its most popular cultural and culinary exports has come under threat.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt all started late last month when the Swiss-based International Organization for Standardization (ISO) posted new regulations for the making of \u003Cem\u003Epao\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Ecai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a similar pickled vegetable dish from Sichuan, China. As \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55129805\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBBC News\u003C\u002Fa\u003E reported, although the ISO listing clearly states \"this document does not apply to kimchi,\" China's state-run Global Times newspaper quickly pounced on the certification, claiming it as \"an international standard for the kimchi industry led by China\". South Korea's agricultural ministry dismissed the Chinese claims, releasing a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mafra.go.kr\u002Fmafra\u002F294\u002Fsubview.do?enc=Zm5jdDF8QEB8JTJGYmJzJTJGbWFmcmElMkY2OSUyRjMyNTQwNSUyRmFydGNsVmlldy5kbyUzRmJic0NsU2VxJTNEJTI2cmdzRW5kZGVTdHIlM0QlMjZiYnNPcGVuV3JkU2VxJTNEJTI2cGFzc3dvcmQlM0QlMjZzcmNoQ29sdW1uJTNEJTI2cGFnZSUzRDElMjZyZ3NCZ25kZVN0ciUzRCUyNnJvdyUzRDEwJTI2aXNWaWV3TWluZSUzRGZhbHNlJTI2c3JjaFdyZCUzRCUyNg%3D%3D\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estatement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E saying, \"It is inappropriate to report [the pao cai certification] without differentiating kimchi from pao cai of China's Sichuan.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EYet, that response didn't go far enough for many Koreans, who leapt to social and local media to defend their country's quintessential comfort food and call out China for appropriation. \"China is even trying to steal Kimchi from Korea,\" \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FDrTaraO\u002Fstatus\u002F1333248759006961665\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted\u003C\u002Fa\u003E one user. \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fenglish.chosun.com\u002Fsite\u002Fdata\u002Fhtml_dir\u002F2020\u002F11\u002F30\u002F2020113001551.html?fbclid=IwAR3P8qusg43C-uDr7UtN7Ex21Lu3kwNKzuVJjqQysc_K0PAAMStZJnziz-U\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Chosun Ilbo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a South Korean newspaper, called China's claim \"its latest bid for world domination\". And in the past three weeks, this online \"kimchi war\" has rekindled a decades-long feud between the neighbouring nations that encompasses everything from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-17890929\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efishing rights in the Yellow Sea\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to a K-Pop band member's recent comments about \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-54513408\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's role in the Korean War\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The battle over who owns kimchi may come down to a simple misunderstanding that has gotten lost in translation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut it seems that the battle over who owns kimchi may come down to a simple misunderstanding that has gotten lost in translation.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Dr Sojin Lim, the co-director of the Institute of Korean Studies at the University of Central Lancashire, Korean kimchi is often served in China under the name pao cai, and &ndash; to add further confusion &ndash; China has its own fermented dish that it also calls pao cai, which is the dish that recently won ISO certification.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Pao cai is quite different from kimchi. Kimchi is a fermented cabbage, [made with] very different kinds of spicy [and] non-spicy [ingredients]. But this pao cai, which China claims as a part of kimchi, is a pickled vegetable, which is something very different from kimchi,\" Lim \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fsounds\u002Fplay\u002Fp0901blr\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etold BBC Newshour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. She added: \"Pao cai tastes really different, [and is made] really different. But for Chinese understanding, kimchi is part of pao cai, so that is the starting point of this argument.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There should be no dispute about the origin of kimchi","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor many South Koreans, the very notion that another nation could lay claim to its national dish touches a nerve that goes beyond food.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"There should be no dispute about the origin of kimchi,\" said Syuoung Park, executive chef at New York's two-Michelin-starred Korean restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fjungsik.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJungsik\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"Kimchi is a traditional Korean dish that originated over 3,000 years ago. The tradition of making kimchi started as a way to ferment and store vegetables during the cold winter when many Koreans died of starvation. It is the most ubiquitous side dish on a table every day [and] a long-standing cultural heritage of Korea. I hope our culture no longer becomes distorted.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200204-is-this-the-capital-of-kimchi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the capital of kimchi?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a Korean comfort food went global\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Fuchsia Dunlop, author of the book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomsbury.com\u002Fuk\u002Fthe-food-of-sichuan-9781408867556\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Food of Sichuan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a Chinese culinary expert, \"Pao cai literally just means 'vegetables pickled in brine',\" and while kimchi is layered with ground chillies and fermented with seafood, neither of those are present in Sichuanese pao chi. Yet, just as many Koreans eat kimchi every day &ndash; even while orbiting the Earth &ndash; Dunlop explains that pao cai holds an equally strong place in the hearts and stomachs of Sichuanese.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"It's incredibly important. It's an essential part of the Sichuanese traditional diet,\" she said. \"Normally with every meal, you'll have a little bit of pickles &ndash;&nbsp;perhaps radish, cabbage, whatever is in season. If you have breakfast in Sichuan, a typical thing to have is a thin rice porridge with a steamed bun or bread element, and then pickles. The function of the pickles is \u003Cem\u003Exiafan,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which means \"to send the rice down\". You eat these plain foods, and you need something tasty to send the rice down. It's the same thing with an evening meal. It's very much a part of Sichuanese everyday life.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EInterestingly, just as some Italians believe that \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200415-how-to-make-pizza-like-a-neapolitan-master\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"true\" Neapolitan pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is only made with San Marzano tomatoes grown on the volcanic plains near Mt Vesuvius, Dunlop explained that Sichuanese pao cai aficionados believe the pickling brine used to make the condiment should ideally be made with salt that comes from the Sichuanese town of Zigong, where it has been mined for more than 2,000 years. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"There are countless other wonderful pickled vegetables throughout China that the outside world knows nothing about","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording Clarissa Wei, a Taiwan-based journalist who travelled to Sichuan earlier this year to profile \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=wQo9bdojU1w&amp;feature=youtu.be\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehow local residents prepare pao cai\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, this murky marinade is what really distinguishes the two regional condiments.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"The biggest difference is that Sichuan pickles (pao cai) use a brine of salt water and spices, whereas for kimchi, you massage the cabbage with salt and pickle it in its natural juices. Whole spices are added in the pao cai brine and the vegetable isn't broken up completely during the pickling process,\" Wei said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo, if the two dishes are distinctly different, what is to make of China's claim to kimchi?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\"China absolutely loves to pounce on stories which say the Chinese were first. But in truth, it may be a bit more complicated than that,\" Dunlop said. \"China, Korea and Japan have amazing traditions of pickling, as do many other countries in the world. Everywhere in the world, people have thought of ways to make foods last longer. You have pickling and fermentation everywhere. Of course, there are local specialties and variations, but it's very much a part of shared human culture. It's absurd for anyone to claim they invented pickling!\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet, while Unesco, South Koreans and most discerning diners around the world would be quick to characterise kimchi as Korean, Dunlop argues that China likely won this most recent fermentation feud. By The New York Times, The Guardian, Reuters and other international outlets reporting on the recent row, countless readers who had never before heard of pao cai are now aware of it &ndash; a fact that is evident by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftrends.google.com\u002Ftrends\u002Fexplore?date=today%205-y&amp;q=pao%20cai\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethis Google Trends graph\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showing searches for the Sichuanese dish at a five-year high.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Regardless of what anyone thinks about this claim, the Sichuanese have scored a huge PR victory,\" Dunlop said. \"Pao cai is a wonderful Sichuanese tradition, but only in Sichuan. There are countless other wonderful pickled vegetables throughout China that the outside world knows nothing about.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps China can leave kimchi to the Korean experts and use this moment to introduce the world to its many other mouth-watering ways to \"send the rice down\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Ffood-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood Wars\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquo;s identity.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-12-18T15:23:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"How kimchi rekindled a decades-long feud","headlineShort":"How kimchi rekindled an age-old feud","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"35.9078","longitude":"127.7669","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"By claiming South Korea's national dish as its own, China may have angered the internet, but at least now the world has heard about \"pao cai\".","summaryShort":"China claimed Korea's national dish, and the internet erupted","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:59:30.20209Z","entity":"article","guid":"56e167ed-9ad5-4bfc-adaf-2e3db2c30ba2","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","modifiedDateTime":"2022-05-09T09:39:04.756681Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220947},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns","_id":"6399da63122e046212313a0b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"This dangerously red chilli paste is the backbone of South Korea’s spicy-sweet flavours, and it brings heat to famous Korean dishes. Now, it’s taking over the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI sat at the long wooden table in \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.moolmaru.co.kr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMoolmaru Traditional Soybean Paste School\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on Jeju island, South Korea, adjusting my apron and catching side-eye from a toddler. Apparently I&rsquo;d misread the demographic for this class; most of my fellow students looked like they were cutting nursery school to be there. Chalk it up to my questionable Korean skills &ndash; but at least I&rsquo;d be able to keep up with the class. Probably.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Gochujang is a slow fuse to sudden ignition","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI was there to learn how to make \u003Cem\u003Egochujang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, my current favourite food. \u003Cem\u003EGochu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is the Korean word for chilli; \u003Cem\u003Ejang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E means fermented paste or sauce. This dangerously red chilli paste is the backbone of South Korea&rsquo;s spicy-sweet flavours, and it brings heat to famous dishes like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200127-is-this-the-most-authentic-korean-barbecue\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebarbecue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, bibimbap, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebudae-jjigae\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Cem\u003Eyangnyeom\u003C\u002Fem\u003E fried chicken and the tongue-blistering rice cake dish \u003Cem\u003Etteokbokki\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Gochujang is a slow fuse to sudden ignition &ndash; used correctly, the heat never reaches your mouth but amplifies surrounding flavours to surreal levels. Of course, sometimes it&rsquo;s fun to go for the burn.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt first, my obsession was just ego: me against the persistent Korean myth that Westerners don&rsquo;t like spicy food. Historically speaking, they have a point. One of the first Westerners to write about Korea was Victorian adventuress Isabella Bird back in the 1890s. She was horrified by the &ldquo;sauces of pungent and objectionable odours, the basis of most of them being capsicums and fermented rotten beans!&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThankfully, tastes &ndash; and attitudes &ndash; have changed. Today, gochujang is a hot item in the UK and US, popping up on flavour trend forecasts by everyone from food wholesaler \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bidfood.co.uk\u002F2020\u002F01\u002F15\u002Ffeeding-the-senses-bidfood-reveals-2020-dining-trends\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBidfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frestaurant.org\u002Fdownloads\u002Fpdfs\u002Fresearch\u002Fwhatshot\u002Fwhatshotfinal2019\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Restaurant Association\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Often billed as the &ldquo;new sriracha&rdquo;, it&rsquo;s made the leap from specialty stores to big-box supermarkets and fast food joints.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis is no accident. Gochujang companies have spent the last decade developing their export strategy. Within South Korea, gochujang is sold in its raw form, a base ingredient for sauces, marinades and stews. But the dense, sticky paste was reimagined as a squeeze-bottle condiment for the Western market, often combined with other sauces like mayonnaise to make it more familiar. The heat was scaled back too. Gochujang manufacturers even teamed up with the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.kfri.re.kr\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKorean Food Research Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to create a new measure of spiciness called the GHU (Gochujang Hot-taste Unit). It worked: in 2018, South Korean gochujang exports were worth $36.81 million &ndash; up 15% on the previous year &ndash; with much of it going to the UK and US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200609-how-a-south-korean-comfort-food-went-global\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a South Korean comfort food went global\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200204-is-this-the-capital-of-kimchi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs this the capital of kimchi?\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200115-the-worlds-most-prized-pepper\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe world&rsquo;s most-prized pepper?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EYet the true attraction isn&rsquo;t heat, but complexity. Gochujang hits several different flavours at once &ndash; spicy, yes, but also sweet and salty with an underlying \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ffuture\u002Farticle\u002F20190503-the-mystery-taste-that-always-eluded-us\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eumami\u003C\u002Fa\u003E note called \u003Cem\u003Egamchilmat\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Korean. It&rsquo;s an irreplaceable taste; maybe that&rsquo;s why \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.yna.co.kr\u002Fview\u002FAEN20180725010400320\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E21% of South Koreans pack gochujang\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when travelling abroad, according to Yonhap News Agency.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile gochujang is distinctly Korean, chillies are not. They arrived in the late 1500s, having hitched a ride out of the Americas with early European explorers 100 years earlier and worked their way around the world. Scientifically they are of the species \u003Cem\u003ECapsicum annuum L.,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E which is the largest of the five species of domesticated chillies and also includes jalape&ntilde;os.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe first written record of gochujang was recorded by royal physician Si-pil Yi in the 1720s in a compendium of foods eaten at court. It&rsquo;s a recipe for \u003Cem\u003ESunchang gochjang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, referencing a region still famous for the chilli paste today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERoughly 230km south of Seoul, Sunchang celebrates its culinary heritage with an \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jangfestival.co.kr\u002Fver2\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eannual festival\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the Gochujang Village. There&rsquo;s also the Sunchang Traditional Paste Museum, located at 43 Jangnyu-ro, which translates as &ldquo;Fermented Pastes Road&rdquo;. There, cultural tour guide Won-jun Yang filled me in on why Sunchang gochujang was considered fit for a king.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;There are three reasons Sunchang gochujang is so good,&rdquo; explained Yang, who also writes about gochujang for Sunchang County&rsquo;s website. &ldquo;First, most regions make gochujang in the spring, but Sunchang gochujang is made during the 8th and 9th lunar months and ferments through the winter. Second, the water in this region is delicious. Third, Sunchang has more than 77 foggy days every year &ndash; the air holds water like a sponge which is good for bacteria and fermentation.&rdquo;&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAnd those bacteria are good for us. From the start, gochujang was used as a medicinal food, especially for digestive problems. It was even credited with saving King Yeongjo&rsquo;s life in 1748 &ndash; perhaps a bit of an oversell, but those ancient doctors were on the right track. Today, we know naturally fermented foods are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fhealth-benefits-offermenting\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Egreat for your gut\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and soy-based Korean jangs are associated with a range of benefits from lowering cholesterol to fighting cancer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut gochujang quickly moved beyond medicine to become a defining flavour of Korean cuisine. Throughout the 18th Century, it appeared in imperial records, home management books and even poetry. By the end of the 19th Century, it was a universal staple &ndash; Isabella Bird reported that gochujang was consumed by all ages, even babies.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI thought about this as a pre-schooler helped me sound out the ingredient list in our cooking class. With our matching brown aprons and elementary reading levels, I seemed to be fitting in just fine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA large window looked out on the school courtyard, which was filled with massive clay fermentation pots called \u003Cem\u003Eonggi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. When Moolmaru&rsquo;s founder Jeong-seon Bu was growing up, most families had onggis of homemade soy and chilli pastes in their gardens. Nowadays, Koreans generally live in apartments and buy their gochujang in plastic tubs that slide easily into the fridge. That&rsquo;s one of the reasons Bu, who holds three patents for her jang-making process, founded Moolmaru in 2005. She worries the homemade taste is disappearing from the Korean palate.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Education is important to preserving this heritage,&rdquo; she said, adding that while she teaches all age groups, she likes to focus on preschool-aged kids. &ldquo;Children are very sensitive to taste. It&rsquo;s the perfect time to teach the taste of really well-fermented jang.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Education is important to preserving this heritage","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBu clearly knew her audience. The first step to making gochujang is mashing boiled soybeans, the base ingredient of all Korean jang. She insisted we do this the old-fashioned way, and the kids joyously stomped the beans to mush under snowy white galoshes. This was patted into rounded bricks called \u003Cem\u003Emeju\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and laid to rest on a bed of rice straw.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt takes 40 days for meju to ferment and dry, absorbing good fungi and bacteria rather like \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200402-why-san-francisco-does-sourdough-best\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esourdough starter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E on a kitchen counter. Then the bricks are ground down and combined with \u003Cem\u003Egochugaru\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a chili powder made from sun-dried red peppers\u003Cem\u003E. \u003C\u002Fem\u003EThe only other ingredients in Bu&rsquo;s recipe are vegetable stock, salt, barley powder for sweetness, a bit of fruit enzyme to aid fermentation, and a starch that determines the final product&rsquo;s name: Bu uses \u003Cem\u003Essal\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rice), so hers is \u003Cem\u003Essal gochujang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThen the paste goes in an onggi to ferment. &ldquo;Onggis are alive. They breathe,&rdquo; said Bu, referencing the porous clay that allows airflow. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s the perfect environment for good microorganisms.&rdquo; The gochujang is ready to eat after one year, but Bu recommends two for a mature taste. More and the paste becomes bitter.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy squirmy classmates were definitely not going to wait that long, so we whipped up a zingy quick-mix version with garlic, fresh ginger and pickled cucumber. Bu also demonstrated a chilli dipping sauce that included beetroot, broccoli powder and kiwi compote &ndash; not the ingredients I expected from a traditionalist.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EI asked Bu&rsquo;s opinion of the squeezable gochujangs and spicy mayo blends trending in the West, which promote Korean cuisine while moving further away from that original homemade taste. To my surprise, she&rsquo;s all for it. She has even been developing a few fusion mixes herself, like a gochujang-ketchup spread that incorporates local black pork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;It&rsquo;s a good opportunity to create new food culture,&rdquo; she said with a smile. And a new generation of gochujang lovers, I thought, glancing at my diminutive fellow cooks. I guess this was the class for me after all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fculinary-roots\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECulinary Roots\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that looks at trending recipes and traces their origins, offering the story behind the dish as well as easy tips on how to make them.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-08-19T20:31:43Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Gochujang: The trendy Korean food that burns","headlineShort":"Is this the ‘new sriracha’?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"This dangerously red chilli paste is the backbone of South Korea’s spicy-sweet flavours, and it brings heat to famous Korean dishes. Now, it’s taking over the world.","summaryShort":"It’s the backbone of South Korea’s spicy-sweet flavours","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:53:53.739789Z","entity":"article","guid":"00a8b296-1561-448f-92b1-b0f93fc1799f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:14:28.421805Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220947},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal","_id":"6399da63122e0461f17489b7","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Believed to align the mind, body and soul, shojin ryori is a fascinating insight into the careful balance of new and old perfected by Japan.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEdged in vibrant pink, a shadow-thin slice of radish sits atop a soft square of sesame tofu. Beside it, a pot of udon simmers gently while a nearby basket holds a nest of crisp tempura &ndash; forming just three of the dozen dishes set before me. We are seated in a quiet tatami room at Ekoin, one of more than 100 temples that form the ancient complex of Koya in rural Wakayama prefecture. Perched on the mountainside, the town is the centre of Shingon Buddhism, and our meal is known as \u003Cem\u003Eshōjin ryōri\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a spiritual cuisine perfected by monks over centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EKnown for its moss-covered cemeteries and forested pilgrimage routes, Koya is home to a long tradition of worship. The town&rsquo;s many temple lodgings, known as \u003Cem\u003Eshukubo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, offer visitors the chance to experience the ways of Buddhism, from meditation to calligraphy &shy;&ndash; but few know that the humble temple meals are also an opportunity for spiritual exploration.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOften called &ldquo;devotion cuisine&rdquo;, shōjin ryōri was developed by monks, but has recently found its way from temple restaurants to Tokyo&rsquo;s Michelin-star tables. Both minimal and plentiful, it is often associated with austerity; however, dedicated chefs profess a myriad of visual, technical and seasonal combinations are possible.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EArriving in Japan with Buddhism in the 6th Century, shōjin cuisine was traditionally a simple affair, preserved by hard-working priests and monks, explains Shiten, Ekoin&rsquo;s resident priest. It was the teachings of 13th-Century writer and Soto Zen school founder, Dogen, however, that pioneered the spiritual focus of the art. Dogen believed that, similar to the practice of flower arranging or tea ceremony, shōjin ryōri had the power to align mind, body and soul.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200810-japans-unknown-indigenous-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan&rsquo;s unknown indigenous cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20191216-georgias-giant-dumpling-born-from-conquest\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA dumpling tracing back to Genghis Khan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200727-japans-most-polarising-superfood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJapan's most polarising superfood\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDogen&rsquo;s famed essay, &ldquo;Tenzo Kyokun&rdquo;, meaning &ldquo;Instructions to the Cook&rdquo;, outlines not only the importance of ingredient selection and balance, but the mindfulness of the chef. The simple dish of \u003Cem\u003Egoma dofu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (sesame tofu) &ndash; which requires hours of grinding and stirring &ndash; is a well-known example, with the repetitive process demanding a single-minded focus from the chef. Given the lengthy, labour-intensive process and the comparatively brief moment it takes to eat, Shiten considered it the essence of shōjin cuisine, and a lesson in balancing the expectations of the ego.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EShōjin chefs are required to possess the three minds of Japanese Zen Buddhism, known as \u003Cem\u003Esanshin,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and they become as much a part of the meal as their ingredients. \u003Cem\u003EAishin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the big mind) must be maintained for calmness and motivation; \u003Cem\u003Eroshin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the parental mind) is needed to respect and care for the ingredients and diner; while \u003Cem\u003Ekishin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the precious mind) requires the cook to work with pleasure and gratitude.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Shōjin ryōri literally means &lsquo;food for spiritual practice&rsquo;,&rdquo; explained Eric Rath, a professor of Japanese studies and leading expert in Japanese food culture. &ldquo;Specifically, it refers to a vegetarian meal that also excludes ingredients like garlic and green onion, which Buddhists believed excited the passions,&rdquo; he continued, outlining the basic rules, of which there are many intricacies and extensions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It&rsquo;s a spiritual pursuit, but also it&rsquo;s an opportunity for you to connect with other people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe guiding concepts of shōjin cuisine are centred on a series of Buddhist precepts, aligning the need for sustenance with religious values such as avoiding harm. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s about balance,&rdquo; explained Mari Fujii, who has taught the cuisine for more than 30 years in the historical seaside city of Kamakura, known for temples, seated Buddhas and ancient political influence. Learning from her husband&rsquo;s time as a \u003Cem\u003Etenzo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the Buddhist chef in a temple or monastery) at a local Kamakura temple, she soon adopted the philosophies into her home cooking: &ldquo;To be able to fulfil your temple duties, you couldn&rsquo;t eat too much or too little. It&rsquo;s about finding the perfect balance, and this comes from the rule of five,&rdquo; she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDrawing significance from the five phases of Chinese Philosophy known as \u003Cem\u003Ewuxing\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the number reflects the cyclical balance needed in nature and society. In shōjin ryōri, this applies to colour, flavour and technique: the \u003Cem\u003Egoshoku\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (colour) of white, black, red, green and yellow; the \u003Cem\u003Egomi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (flavour) of sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami; and the \u003Cem\u003Egoho\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (technique) of simmered, fried, raw, steamed and grilled are all required elements.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs well as guiding nutritional balance, the rules are designed to appeal to the five senses, inspiring the diner to notice and value each ingredient as well as the care taken to prepare it. Before eating even begins, this is done through the chanting of the five Zen reflections, encouraging monks to be grateful, aware of their imperfections, strive to improve upon them, eat for good health and to fulfil their obligations. Passed from chef to diner, the meal forms a bridge, as Fujii explained: &ldquo;it&rsquo;s a spiritual pursuit, but also it&rsquo;s an opportunity for you to connect with other people.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs vital as the required elements, the restrictions reflect the value of absence that&rsquo;s recognised in Buddhist training and Japanese aesthetics known as &ldquo;\u003Cem\u003Ema\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&rdquo;. The empty space employed in \u003Cem\u003Eikebana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Japanese flower arrangement) is equal to the chosen stems, while Dogen initially listed six flavours &ndash;&shy;&shy; counting plain alongside the other five. This preference for subtlety and minimal sacrifice is key, but among Japanese diners who favour meat and the traditional fish-based \u003Cem\u003Edashi \u003C\u002Fem\u003Estock, the cuisine is often viewed as bland and unexciting.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFujii maintains a boundless enthusiasm for the cuisine&rsquo;s possibilities, however: &ldquo;There are so many variations and it is so representative of the seasons, not once in 36 years have I become bored with shōjin ryōri,&rdquo; she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seasonal aspect of shōjin ryōri is one of its founding principles and offers much of the variety that Fujii adores. Known as \u003Cem\u003Eshun\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, this element takes its name from an ancient Japanese counter system and means &ldquo;10 days&rdquo;, reflecting a hyper-seasonality still common in Japanese cuisine. Many Japanese restaurants, for example, change menus every few weeks, with fresh decorative leaves adorning plates to highlight the season and daily specials picked out at the market each morning.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne such restaurant, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sougo.tokyo\u002Findex_e.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESougo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Tokyo, is the creation of acclaimed chef Daisuke Nomura. He was head chef when the highly acclaimed, family-run shōjin ryōri restaurant \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.atago-daigo.jp\u002Fen\u002F\"\u003EDaigo\u003C\u002Fa\u003E was awarded two Michelin stars in 2009, and he later struck out on his own to further explore the cuisine&rsquo;s possibilities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The most important part of shōjin is consideration and appreciation","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;&ldquo;I wanted to work towards a new generation of shōjin ryōri,&rdquo; he said. &ldquo;I think dishes should evolve with time, and I wanted the freedom to challenge myself and work with new elements.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EUsing the ancient favourite of sesame tofu as an example, he explained how a single change can create a range of new combinations: &ldquo;Cold, it&rsquo;s quite limited, but when fried it opens up so many options &ndash; I&rsquo;ve served it with umami sauce, even mashed potato. When I realised the difference one change can make, it inspired me, it really represents what I want to do here at Sougo.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ENomura embraces the philosophies of shōjin ryōri and has found they are aligned with the growing sustainability focus of restaurants worldwide. Alongside the hyper-seasonal element of shun is an aim to use locally sourced ingredients. Known as \u003Cem\u003Eshindofuji\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the second core concept highlights the need for being in harmony with nature, encouraging the chef to specifically seek what grows around them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe final pillar, and perhaps the most reflective of the sustainability zeitgeist, is \u003Cem\u003Eichimotsu zentai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means quite literally &ldquo;to use the whole thing&rdquo;. Demanding respect, it is a precursor to the zero-waste movement. &ldquo;The most important part of shōjin is consideration and appreciation,&rdquo; noted Nomura, &ldquo;For us to survive, we receive the lives of other things, so we must not waste them.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis awareness and appreciation has transcended shōjin cuisine to be recognised at the start of all meals in Japanese daily life. Visitors will no doubt have heard the phrase &ldquo;\u003Cem\u003Eitadakimasu&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E uttered before a meal or even a simple snack. Paired with clasped hands and a small bow of the head, the phrase is often translated to mean &ldquo;I humbly receive&rdquo; and represents a gratefulness for the food offered and its acceptance. Be it friends enjoying shaved ice in a cafe or family sitting down to a special meal, the phrase is never forgotten and denotes the continued tradition of appreciation founded by shōjin cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOf course, the shōjin ryōri served in temples and that of Michelin star chefs is somewhat different, as Nomura explained to me: &ldquo;Shōjin food at temples is designed to support the health of training monks so it doesn&rsquo;t need to be well-presented. However, at restaurants it&rsquo;s a meal for customers, so it&rsquo;s more of an art.&rdquo; But, he stressed, the core elements remain the same.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDiscussing the duality with her London-born sous-chef, Fujii notes a similar realisation in her students&rsquo; perceptions, who leave with a new awareness of the spiritual element at the heart of shojin ryōri. &ldquo;Many arrive thinking about the recipes, but they leave with the realisation that it&rsquo;s a state of mind, she said. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s not just what you do in the kitchen, it&rsquo;s how you live your life.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-09-08T23:17:59Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Japan’s ancient vegetarian meal","headlineShort":"Japan’s most meticulous meal?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Believed to align the mind, body and soul, shojin ryori is a fascinating insight into the careful balance of new and old perfected by Japan.","summaryShort":"It’s believed to align the mind, body and soul","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:54:43.356125Z","entity":"article","guid":"0fdc8293-9f7c-4f55-b3df-c3b04f902b24","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:15:23.417573Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220947},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine","_id":"6463f490122e041ef6555225","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fpaul-stafford"],"bodyIntro":"From a mountainside in Gyeonggi-do, Buddhist nun WooKwan Sunim pioneers the Korean temple cuisine movement, which has roots in ancient history but speaks directly to modern tastes.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Whenever I go to the mountain, I can see all the edibles out there. They are everywhere.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWooKwan Sunim wandered across a mat of decaying leaves and browned pine needles, careful to keep her shale-grey robes clean. For those who know what to look for, the tangled forest surrounding Gameun Temple, near the South Korean city of Icheon, is packed with edible treats. Each year, ginseng roots hide in the dark loam beneath vivacious sprigs of emerald leaves and carmine berries; clusters of velvety oyster mushrooms (\u003Cem\u003Esongi beoseot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E in Korean) bloom from the decay of fallen trees; and spicebush branches burst like fireworks with the yellow blossoms known as ginger flowers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA nun of almost 40 years, WooKwan is a master of Korean temple cuisine and often returns to Gameun from her foraging forays laden with sprigs of fresh pine needles, wild artichoke hearts, feather-light cherry blossom, fat ginkgo seeds and perky lotus leaves, to pickle, ferment, dry or salt for use at a later date. No matter the season, the land dictates the menu at Buddhist temples across Korea, where an organic, vegetarian, zero-waste approach to sustenance is older than the temples themselves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"When you join the nun or monk life, you start to learn temple food, because we eat it every day,\" said WooKwan, who was born into a Christian family and followed that religion before discovering Buddhism almost 40 years ago. She learned the ways of the faith and of temple cuisine from lamas in New Delhi and Seoul, before settling into a peaceful life at Gameun to perfect her craft.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In the world, the best food is, in my opinion, Korean temple food,\" said WooKwan. Coming from anybody else, this would sound like bragging. However, she mentions this merely to balance the caveat that \"Korean temple food is not a perfect cuisine\", more a work in progress. \"In Korea, there is an image that temple food is not tasty, but good for health.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9fxd"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, this is a food movement without celebrity chefs and without the swanky inner-city restaurants run by them. Temple food is modest, grounded and completely focussed on sustainable practice. It is, in essence, the product of devotion and necessity; all monks and nuns need sustenance. Mindful preparation of the dishes is all part of the path to enlightenment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EBuddhism was brought to Korea somewhere between the 3rd and 4th Centuries. Despite facing initial resistance, its vegetarianism was enshrined into Korean law for a while. The earliest surviving written record of Korean history is the Samguk sagi&nbsp;(History of the Three Kingdoms), from 1145, in which Silla King Beopheung (who ruled 514-540 CE) is said to have issued a decree in 529 CE prohibiting the killing of all living beings for 16 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Vegetarian law","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the temple setting, the combination of South Korea's robust food culture &ndash; where emphasis is traditionally placed on preparing healthy slow food dishes &ndash; and Buddhist ideals, which focus on transcending earthly, ephemeral human desires in the pursuit of enlightenment, produces something truly unique. It's unsurprising then, that when it comes to preparing food, cheap shortcuts to big flavours, such as excess salt, garlic, butter and sugar, are eschewed for healthier pairings of natural ingredients instead. In fact, one item on that list &ndash; garlic &ndash; is avoided altogether. If that doesn't provoke the collective gasp of gourmands everywhere, then nothing will.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"In temple cuisine, it's important to convey the original taste of the ingredients, rather than pushing a sensational flavour,\" said WooKwan. Onions, leeks, chives and spring onions are also shunned because nothing distracts meditative practice more than the smelly breath of somebody sat next to you. When you strip away these flavoursome ingredients, along with most animal products, it takes creativity and deep understanding to concoct great recipes with what remains.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThrough her resourceful, yet deceptively simple recipes, WooKwan is steadily proving that Korean temple cuisine is both healthy and delicious. Restriction breeds invention. The secret to its rich flavours lies in the seasonings: \"Chilli paste (\u003Cem\u003Egochujang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E), soybean paste (\u003Cem\u003Edoenjang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) and Korean soy sauce (\u003Cem\u003Eganjang\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) are the most important. We make these three kinds of seasonings by hand at the temple.\" Everything tastes good in the context of these three \u003Cem\u003Ejangs\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9j6m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Gameun Temple, a modest collection of single-storey buildings on a wooded hillside, WooKwan's \u003Cem\u003Eonggi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (earthenware fermentation pots) are immediately noticeable. They are found in squat, umber huddles all around the temple grounds, containing the \u003Cem\u003Ejangs \u003C\u002Fem\u003Eand all manner of preserved ingredients sourced from the doorstep wilds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPickling and fermentation are age-old preservation techniques that are elevated to an art form here. Spicy and umami flavours abound. The purported \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbcgoodfood.com\u002Fhowto\u002Fguide\u002Fhealth-benefits-kimchi\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehealing properties of kimchi\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a word that describes a salting and fermenting process, are by now infamous throughout the world. Any vegetable can become kimchi, not just cabbage, in the same way that any vegetable can be pickled or dried. And WooKwan also turns a surprising number of plants into teas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor example, wild Jerusalem artichoke's dried flowers are turned into tea, while the artichoke tubers are pickled, turned into a type of kimchi, or dried into a crispy snack. Nothing is wasted in the preparation process, nor in the consumption process. \"We only fill our bowl with what we need. We eat every last grain of rice,\" WooKwan said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9g9v"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESlow food cultures such as Korean temple cuisine are in some ways last vestiges of a pre-commercial food production era. But despite the increasingly clear benefits of such a diet, new construction developments are chewing up the forest around Gameun, making foraging and organic farming increasingly challenging. A new golf course here, or a warehouse there, squeeze the remaining wildlife into ever-smaller, disconnected spaces.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"All the time, the \u003Cem\u003Egorani\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (water deer) come and eat all our vegetables.\" WooKwan can now only grow plants with fragrant aromas, such as rosemary, sesame and mint, which the deer generally don't touch. Many other ingredients have to be sourced from local farms instead. And those earthenware pots filled with already harvested, fermenting ingredients are not immune, either. \"One day, a gorani opened the cover on one of the pots and ate all the gochujang,\" said WooKwan of the irresistible red chilli paste. \"It means my gochujang is a very good one,\" she joked.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that nature and humans are not separate, but rather connected. It's important to understand that this connection is made through the heart and mind,\" said WooKwan of the \"spirit of non-killing and respect for life\" principles on which Korean temple cuisine is founded.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9g90"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2018, WooKwan released her first English-language cookbook, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ficphub.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWooKwan's Korean Temple Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. In it, she bridges the gap between East and West, occasionally incorporating ingredients not commonly eaten in Korea, such as Brussels sprouts, artichokes and avocados. Along with a handful of other nuns, she is steadily cultivating the global profile of Korean temple cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"My favourite ingredient is eggplant [aubergine], and my favourite dish is eggplant and chilli tomato stew. I developed that recipe under the guidance of my master, the head of Bongeun Temple in Seoul, when I began my journey in temple cuisine,\" she said. Kindness was at the root of the recipe's creation; WooKwan was looking to make a dish with softer ingredients that her elders would be able to chew comfortably. New recipes are concocted in this way all the time using a philosophy that has remained unchanged for centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Good food means not only good tasting food. Good food means what you need.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Good food means not only good tasting food. Good food means what you need,\" she said. You can tell, by looking at any one dish, that WooKwan's ingredients aren't just healthy, they look good too, balancing textures and colour. Tender lotus roots are topped with crumbled walnuts and diced red chillies; gnarled whorls of chewy seaweed are shredded atop a sea lettuce soup; and crunchy cakes of fried sticky rice come packed with straggly mugwort and pumpkin cubes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9jks"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor every person, a slightly different diet is prescribed. \"People are increasingly getting addicted to only good-tasting food,\" said WooKwan, which in modern times is often processed and can lead to all sorts of health issues. \"We try to listen to our body's sound, it's voice.\" Korean temple food aims to redress the imbalance created by inorganic modern diets. \"We need salty, sweet and sour flavours, all kinds of types, but not too much and not too little. You need good harmony and good balance,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love a simple life. Life is better when it's simple, so food also needs simple recipes. Not complicated. Not too much. Then you will develop a free life.\" That is a culinary philosophy that speaks to anybody who has ever fought to balance time constraints with a healthy diet. WooKwan's aubergine and chilli tomato stew takes only 10 minutes to cook. Who said fast food has to be bad for you?\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fm9kmp"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EBraised Aubergine with Cherry Tomatoes\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy WooKwan Sunim\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 3-4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe marriage of flavours is enhanced the more you chew with this simple, healthy recipe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E2 Chinese aubergines\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp perilla seed oil (or any other nut or seed oil)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; cup vegetable stock\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp soy sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp rice syrup\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E12 cherry tomatoes\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 Cheongyang green chilli (or serrano chilli), seeded and diced\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ESlice the aubergine crosswise into 4cm (1&frac12; in) pieces.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a large, pre-heated pan add the perilla seed oil and aubergine and stir-fry over a high heat for a couple of minutes. Add the vegetable stock, soy sauce and rice syrup. Stir well to mix.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECover and braise over medium heat, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the cherry tomatoes and simmer until they're cooked through, and the aubergine is tender. Sprinkle with the diced chillis and serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine-18"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2023-05-17T10:23:54Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The 1,700-year legacy of Korean temple cuisine","headlineShort":"A 1,700-year-old 'zero waste' cuisine","image":["p0fm9fcy"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"37.6213477","longitude":"126.8602244","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fm9fcy"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201217-how-kimchi-rekindled-a-decades-long-feud","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200818-gochujang-the-trendy-korean-food-that-burns","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200907-shojin-ryori-japans-ancient-vegetarian-meal"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"From a mountainside in Gyeonggi-do, Buddhist nun WooKwan Sunim pioneers the Korean temple cuisine movement, which has roots in ancient history but speaks directly to modern tastes.","summaryShort":"Here, mindful preparation of dishes is part of the path to enlightenment","tag":["tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-16T21:24:15.131151Z","entity":"article","guid":"3a0d8080-1636-4429-906f-5cc971667e5b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-16T21:24:15.131151Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-the-1700-year-legacy-of-korean-temple-cuisine","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fsouth-korea"],"destinationStat":"asia_south-korea","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220946},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past","_id":"6399da7c122e0476066945fa","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In a remote corner of Sudan, a little-known site holds clues to the prehistoric climate change that created the world’s largest desert.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOur pickup truck turned onto a dusty two-track road heading away from the Nile River in north-eastern \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20170228-africas-most-misunderstood-country\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESudan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Ahead of us, the landscape stretched forever and the small bumps on the horizon, perhaps distant mountains or nearby sand dunes masked by mirage, were impossible to gauge in the vastness. The only thing that appeared certain was the emptiness.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"As an archaeologist who has worked on projects from the bottom of the Black Sea to the tops of the Rocky Mountains, it&rsquo;s not every day that a site completely surprises me","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter an hour, we arrived at a \u003Cem\u003Ewadi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (dry riverbed) lined with outcrops of crumbling sandstone. Daydreaming as soft tunes of Sudanese jazz crackled through the staticky radio, I snapped back to attention as something caught my eye: a white animal-like shape on one of the cliff faces. Wondering if it was the desert playing tricks on me, my doubts dissipated when we rounded a corner and stopped. Surrounding us, on every exposed surface of rock, were thousands of ancient petroglyphs depicting scenes of elephants, giraffes, ostriches and boats.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the wind picked up and the sand began to blow, I stared in awe at the unexpected scenes depicting what I&rsquo;d imagine to see in the lush grasslands and winding waterways of the Serengeti, but not in the bone-dry Nubian Desert, the eastern flank of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESahara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sandwiched between the Nile and the Red Sea. As an archaeologist who has worked on projects from the bottom of the Black Sea to the tops of the Rocky Mountains, it&rsquo;s not every day that a site completely and utterly surprises me. However, this veritable encyclopaedia of petroglyphs etched in front of me marked a rare and exciting exception.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Welcome to Sabu,&rdquo; said my driver with a smile, &ldquo;where you can see how Sudan used to be.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The climate of the Sahara region was once drastically different than it is today","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHidden amongst rock outcrops between the third and fourth cataracts of the Nile River, the archaeological site of Sabu-Jaddi (or simply &ldquo;Sabu&rdquo;) contains more than 1,500 rock drawings spanning 10,000 years of human history in the region. Archaeologists have yet to determine when, exactly, the ancient Nubians who lived here first chiselled these images, but one thing is for sure: the remarkably well-preserved etchings of hippos, crocodiles and papyrus boats depict a vastly different world than the parched desert landscape that now covers much of northern Africa, and offer a glimpse into the Sahara&rsquo;s verdant past.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Sabu has a large diversity of figures,&rdquo; said archaeologist Dr Bruce Williams, who worked in Sudan for more than 50 years. &ldquo;There are animals from early times, cattle from the later Kerma period (2600-1450BC), boats of Egypt&rsquo;s New Kingdom (1570-1069BC), a collection of Christian period motifs and more that continue through time.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the sheer magnitude of drawings and the deep history that the site encompasses, Sabu also provides a detailed record of how people lived and adapted as the world&rsquo;s largest desert began to form around them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe climate of the Sahara region was once drastically different than it is today. Though the desert is generally considered to be two to three million years old, during a time known as the African Humid Period (roughly 13000-3000BC), seasonal monsoons from Central Africa swept upwards, delivering ample rainfall to the northern part of the continent. During this era, the Nile surged as it was fed by countless rain-filled tributaries that snaked into a green, fertile plain &ndash; much like the savannahs of Kenya and Tanzania. Immense herds of elephants, giraffes and gazelles thundered across the landscape and hippos snorted throughout ponds and riverways. A large variety of plants and animals offered abundant resources to humans who roamed these grasslands in small family groups of hunter-gatherers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt Sabu, the hundreds of animal figures that were incised into the sandstone&rsquo;s surface are evidence of this forgotten era. This earliest form of Saharan rock art is known as the Bubaline Phase, and while Sabu isn't the only site with ancient petroglyphs depicting exotic game animals in the Sahara, it was the first in Sudan to be documented (by a British archaeological expedition in the 1940s) and remains one of the only ones readily accessible to visitors today.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200503-the-indigenous-communities-that-predicted-covid-19\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA race to rescue frozen artefacts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe pyramids few tourists have seen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20200318-how-a-storm-revealed-a-welsh-kingdom\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow a storm revealed a Welsh kingdom\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;There is a lot of rock art in Nubia and the adjacent deserts,&rdquo; explained Dr Williams. &ldquo;Most big outcrops, especially those with caves, are often spectacularly developed.&rdquo; While the imagery is widespread across Sudan, Sabu remains one of the largest known concentrations in the country.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the ancient art, other information about prehistoric people&rsquo;s relationships with animals has been identified at nearby excavations, where butchered bones from warthogs, leopards, monitor lizards, fish, gazelles and giraffes lie alongside remnants of chipped stone tools and ancient fire hearths. The evidence of such game, both at Sabu and in the nearby excavations, offers a glimpse into a time when life on the grassy North African plains was ample. But it was not to last, and around 5500-5000BC, the climate began a 2,000-year transformation as the African Humid Period slowly came to an end.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs I continued my exploration at Sabu, venturing deeper into the site, climbing over large sandstone boulders and squeezing through cracks in the cliffside, other creatures began to appear among the traditional animals of the African plains. One in particular, suddenly visible everywhere I looked, stood out among the exotic: the common cow. The appearance of the humble bovid (which marks a new artistic period in the Sahara, known by rock art historians as the Bovidian Phase), while perhaps not as incongruous as an elephant or ostrich, is evidence of an important societal shift that was likely initiated by the changing climate 7,000 years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the humid weather patterns of North Africa began to shorten as seasonal monsoons became less frequent, both people and animals migrated closer to the banks of the Nile. As the weather continued to dry, the humid period came to an end, and by 3500BC the Sahara we are familiar with today was formed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPerhaps in response to this climatic change, the mobile hunter-gatherers of the region gradually became more sedentary and increasingly relied on domesticated animals such as cows, sheep and goats, which grazed near watering holes. This cultural shift to pastoralism is often used to define the early start of the Neolithic Period, and a trajectory that would eventually evolve into farming and the creation of permanent villages, towns and kingdoms. During this time, the importance of cattle increased exponentially and became a focal point for trade and economy in Sudan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo Swiss archaeologist J&eacute;r&ocirc;me Dubosson, the prevalence of cow figures at Sabu helps us understand the significance that these animals would come to have throughout Sudan. For instance, at the nearby historical capital of the ancient Kushite Kingdom, Kerma, the skulls from thousands of sacrificed cattle were buried in tombs dating to 2000BC. The increase in cattle both in rock art and at other excavations reveals a shift in economy and a picture of how people adapted to the changing desert conditions. This new pastoral lifestyle would become characteristic of desert societies throughout northern Africa, outliving the rise and fall of Sudan&rsquo;s Kushite kings and Egypt&rsquo;s pharaohs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EPastoralism has remained an integral part of desert life in Sudan, and several indigenous nomadic tribes such as the Hasania and neighbouring Bisharin continue to roam the arid landscape herding goats, sheep and camels in addition to their once-omnipresent cows. By moving with their animals across a large territory, the nomadic lifestyle has allowed them to persevere in the harsh desert that exists where a lush savannah once stood.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESimilarly, rock art continues to retain its importance among modern Nubian nomads, and etchings representing camels, Arabic sayings and even the occasional car and bus can be found layered among the more ancient drawings. After millennia, Sabu maintains its role as the region&rsquo;s diary, its quiet ravine offering a place for memories to be inscribed and preserved.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile the surrounding rocks have quietly observed the desert&rsquo;s slow transformation, a new change is currently underway that may once again impact the lives of those who call the Sahara home.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EA few days after visiting Sabu, I sat in a hut built from branches and covered by brightly covered fabric that gently muffled the sounds of a half-dozen camels and goats outside. Taking a sip of freshly roasted coffee spiked with spicy ginger, I listened to Medina, a 98-year-old Hasania nomad, as she spoke softly about her life in the remote desert of northern Sudan. As a child, she remembered when the British arrived demanding taxes from the tribes, and when the first roads were built across her people&rsquo;s territory, which encouraged many nomads to settle into houses for the first time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I asked what the future may hold for northern Sudan, she spoke of rain. She explained that she and her family have noticed a shift in weather patterns and they wonder how it will affect them. I sat in awe, listening as this elderly nomad, living in complete isolation from news and mass media, expressed her observations and concerns about climate change and how it might once again alter the landscape of the great desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs our pickup truck rattled away from the encampment and towards the Bayuda Desert below the great Bend of the Nile, Medina&rsquo;s words remained in my mind. Much as it has done for thousands of years, the desert is continuing to shape the lives and culture of those who live within it. Staring out of the window and allowing myself to be enveloped by the vastness outside, I wondered what kinds of figures would be engraved next into the sandstone diary of Sabu, and what tales they will portray to future travellers down the road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-06-07T23:02:04.757Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Sabu-Jaddi: The site revealing the Sahara’s verdant past","headlineShort":"The discovery rewriting Africa's past","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In a remote corner of Sudan, a little-known site holds clues to the prehistoric climate change that created the world’s largest desert.","summaryShort":"An ancient site reveals that the world’s largest desert was once a lush oasis","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:50:22.299482Z","entity":"article","guid":"5bc9d4e3-9960-4410-8f27-86ab0b858b47","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:10:27.735257Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220948},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen","_id":"6399da57122e04761770df7a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"With more than 250 tombs, Sudan’s pyramids far outnumber their Egyptian cousins – and you can wander among the untouched ruins without another tourist in sight.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"ImageGallery","iFrameType":"","imageGallery":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen-0"}],"collection":null,"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2016-01-11T17:25:57Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The pyramids few tourists have seen","headlineShort":"The pyramids few tourists have seen","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":false,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"With more than 250 tombs, Sudan’s pyramids far outnumber their Egyptian cousins – and you can wander among the untouched ruins without another tourist in sight.","summaryShort":"Hundreds of untouched tombs rise from the desert","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T22:34:28.083676Z","entity":"article","guid":"1c8bc488-427d-4156-8ee1-83606ad6dae1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T01:37:53.472224Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220948},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert","_id":"6399da63122e04760a7e8346","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"gallery","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Some believe they’re footprints from the gods, others think they’re formed by dancing fairies or UFOs, but no-one can explain these millions of mysterious circles in the desert.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A land of extremes","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAs people around the world are sheltering in place, many are eagerly awaiting the day they can travel again. To help people cope and to remind them of how beautiful the world can be, BBC Travel is updating some of our most popular stories on natural phenomena and man-made marvels.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELocated along south-western Africa&rsquo;s Atlantic coast, the Namib Desert is one of the driest places on Earth. Meaning \"an area where there is nothing\" in the local Nama language, this Martian-like landscape of towering sand dunes, rugged mountains and gravel plains stretches some 81,000 sq km across three countries.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDating back at least 55 million years, the Namib is believed to be the world&rsquo;s oldest desert (the Sahara is thought to be just two to seven million years old). With summer temperatures routinely reaching 45C and nights that can dip below freezing, it&rsquo;s also one of the most inhospitable places on the planet. Yet, over time, a staggering number of species have adapted to call this arid wonder home &ndash; and in the process, created a bizarre geomorphic phenomenon that continues to baffle experts.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"A collision of sand and sea","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Namib Desert extends more than 2,000km from southern Angola through Namibia and into northern South Africa. From where it tumbles dramatically into the ocean, this seemingly endless sea of silica stretches eastward from Namibia&rsquo;s Atlantic coastline, reaching up to 160km inland to the edge of southern Africa&rsquo;s Great Escarpment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Adaptable animals","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe most arid parts of the Namib receive an average of just 2mm of rainfall a year. During some years, parts of the desert receive none. But as if appearing out of a mirage, animals like oryx, springbok, cheetahs, hyenas, ostriches and zebras that have adapted to survive in these harsh conditions scamper across the desert.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOstriches raise their body temperatures to reduce their water loss; Hartmann&rsquo;s mountain zebras are deft climbers that have adapted to the desert&rsquo;s rugged terrain; and oryx can survive for weeks without drinking by eating water-rich foods like roots and tubers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"‘The Gates of Hell’","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOne of the most treacherous areas of the inhospitable Namib is a 500km expanse of soaring sand dunes and rusting ship hulls along the Atlantic known as the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20110824-the-ghostly-shore-of-namibias-skeleton-coast\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkeleton Coast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Stretching from southern Angola to central Namibia, the area takes its name from the many whale carcasses scattered across its shores and the nearly 1,000 shipwrecks that have littered its coastline over the centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe stark Skeleton Coast is often shrouded in dense fogs, created by the upwelling of the Atlantic Ocean&rsquo;s cold Benguela current, which clashes with the hot air from the interior of the Namib Desert. These fogs create dangerous navigating conditions for ships, and the local San people have called the region \"the land God made in anger\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile sailing along Africa&rsquo;s western coast, famed Portuguese explorer Diogo C&atilde;o briefly stopped at the Skeleton Coast in 1486. After C&atilde;o and his men erected a cross inscribed with the Portuguese coat of arms, the Namib&rsquo;s daunting sand dunes and harsh climate quickly led them to turn back to the sea &ndash; but not before famously calling the area \"The Gates of Hell\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Spectacular sand dunes","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, tourists come to the Namib to see the spectacular rolling ochre sand dunes surrounding Sossusvlei, a salt and clay pan in the centre of \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.met.gov.na\u002Fnational-parks\u002Fnamib-naukluft-park\u002F224\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENamib-Naukluft National Park\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; Africa&rsquo;s third-largest national park, at nearly 50,000 sq km.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile sand dunes are an omnipresent feature throughout the Namib, the surrounding Sossusvlei possesses a particularly deep orange hue. This colour is actually rust, and is an indication of the oxidation process resulting from a high concentration of iron in the sands. The dunes in this area are also some of the highest in the world. Many are more than 200m in height, while the so-called \"Dune 7\", situated north of the red Sossusvlei landscape, soars nearly 400m into the sky.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Fairy circles","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOf the Namib&rsquo;s many marvels, one of its most intriguing features and greatest mysteries is a geomorphic phenomenon known as \"fairy circles\". Sometimes called \"fairy rings\", these barren patches of sand encircled by a single species of grass are found throughout the Namib Desert and have baffled experts for decades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Dotting the desert","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe rings are best viewed from the air, where one can marvel at the circles&rsquo; matrix spreading out endlessly across the desert sands. Found both in the Namib&rsquo;s flat gravel plains and on the desert dunes, fairy rings maintain their near-perfectly circular shape in both terrains. The circles range from 1.5m to 6m in diameter in the central Namib, while in north-western Namibia, they&rsquo;re roughly four times as large and can reach up to 25m wide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor years, fairy rings were thought to exist only in Namibia, but in 2014, similar formations were \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-australia-35808551\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ediscovered in Western Australia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E when&nbsp;environmental scientist Bronwyn Bell was surveying the remote Pilbara region. Perplexed by these spectacular formations, she contacted Stephan Getzin, a German-based ecologist and fairy-circle expert, to share her discovery. While the Australian circles closely resemble those found in Namibia, differences in their soil composition have further baffled scientists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Footprints from the gods?","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile experts are mystified by the cause of these \"fairy\" formations, the circles have long been known to local Namibians. The local Himba people believe they are caused by spirits, and are footprints left by their god, Mukuru.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ETo understand their origin, mathematicians have even tried to create models to see if the rings fit a recognisable pattern. But Hein Schultz, the owner of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rostock-ritz-desert-lodge.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERostock Ritz Desert Lodge\u003C\u002Fa\u003E located just outside the Namib-Naukluft National Park, explains that some locals believe these mysterious circles are caused by &ldquo;UFOs or fairies dancing at night&rdquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"The truth is out there","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETo date, there remains no universally accepted theory as to the source of these curious circles. But in recent years, scientists from Namibia, Germany, the United States and elsewhere have come together to study the phenomenon in hopes of better understanding it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAt the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gobabebtrc.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGobabeb - Namib Research Institute\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a remote research centre in the heart of the desert, entomologist Eugene Marais explained that the two major theories stem from the scarcity of water in the Namib. Some research suggests the circles are caused by termites, which create these circles in order to harvest water and nutrients from the ground. By clearing vegetation from the land, the termites create a barren space in the soil, which allows rainfall to seep deeper into the earth. The theory suggests that termites stay hydrated by drinking from these underground reservoirs year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe other major theory is that of \"vegetation self-organisation\", where root competition between the grasses causes the circular bare patches to appear as a reservoir from which to extract nutrients and water from the surrounding area.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageHeadline":"Unsolved mystery","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAfter years of drought, fairy circle grass can eventually dry up and seemingly disappear. Marais highlights the wonder of this landscape by saying that, when it does rain, all of a sudden, &ldquo;like magic&rdquo;, the circles pop up again.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Marais, research on the Namib&rsquo;s fairy rings has generally focused on circles in isolated stretches of the desert&rsquo;s gravel plains or those found in the sand dunes. But to truly understand these formations, he believes that research must expand across both terrains.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the end, Marais has a hunch that these strange splotches dotting the desert are caused by a combination of factors. But what, exactly, those factors are remains a mystery to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fworld-of-wonder\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld of Wonder\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series exploring some of the most awe-inspiring natural phenomena and manmade marvels around the globe.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-05-09T15:27:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"A mystery in the world’s oldest desert","headlineShort":"Is this Earth’s most inhospitable land?","image":[],"imageAlignment":"center","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":null,"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"center","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Some believe they’re footprints from the gods, others think they’re formed by dancing fairies or UFOs, but no-one can explain these millions of mysterious circles in the desert.","summaryShort":"Welcome to the oldest desert on the planet","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-09-02T13:28:33.052602Z","entity":"article","guid":"a1c847ea-27c8-4135-8d60-47f401c16663","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:55:29.465652Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220949},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder","_id":"6462bc1e122e041b1477a297","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-eshelby"],"bodyIntro":"It contains one of the world's largest concentrations of prehistoric art, yet is barely known to the rest of the world.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMy eyes lifted up towards a rocky ledge carved into a sandstone cliff in the heart of Chad's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.africanparks.org\u002Fthe-parks\u002Fennedi\"\u003EEnnedi Massif\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. I saw a face, then, as my eyes adjusted to the gloam, another appeared. Painted in bright ochre and white, men were riding camels and giant cows danced over the entire surface of the rock.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver millions of years, the wind and rain have sculpted the Ennedi Massif in Chad's remote north-eastern corner into a plateau of inselbergs, lonely spires and towering arches the colour of honeycomb. Meanwhile, primeval people have decorated this landscape, too, painting and carving thousands of images into the rock.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EReaching this region involves a bumpy 1,000km, four-day-drive from the capital N'Djamena through the Sahara. Because of its utter remoteness and the fact that Chad, until recently, has suffered years of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-africa-56882555\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efighting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; including coups, ethnic bloodshed and a war against Libya &ndash; the Ennedi Massif remains largely unknown. So few scientists have been able to reach this inaccessible landscape that it's believed 75% of the massif has yet to be studied, leading \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fexplore-chad.org\u002Fen\u002Fthe-ennedi-massif\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to characterise it as \"less explored than the back of the Moon\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fml680"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEnnedi's obscurity is heightened because the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gov.uk\u002Fforeign-travel-advice\u002Fchad#:~:text=The%20FCDO%20advises%20against%20all,may%20change%20with%20little%20warning.\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUK advises against travelling to much of Chad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (the area around the Ennedi Massif is considered safe, however).&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor those who do make the journey, Ennedi has one of the globe's biggest concentrations of prehistoric rock art. Paintings adorn the walls of almost every cave you step into. Although they are not as old as those in France's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-32403867\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELascaux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E or Indonesia's 45,500-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-asia-55657257\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epig painting\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, many date to the 6th millennium BCE and reveal \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe shifting history of the world's largest hot desert\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"These paintings help us to reconnect with our identity, our culture and where we come from. Ennedi is an open book to the&nbsp;history of our ancestors,\" said Ang&egrave;le Aloumbe, who works for African Parks and is based in N'Djamena. \"I'm always crying when I go to Ennedi. It's such a beautiful landscape with very untouched people. No one can go there without feeling a connection. It has something really special.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, deep in the desert, I was alone with the ancient world. There were no buildings or roads for miles; whereas elsewhere, most early art is surrounded by the noise of tourism or shut to the public for protection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fml6bj"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn 2016, Ennedi &ndash; roughly the size of Switzerland &ndash; was declared a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1475\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage Site\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Shortly afterwards, it was classified as a Natural and Cultural Reserve and taken under the protection of the renowned non-profit conservation organisation African Parks. And earlier this year, a long-term archaeological study began that will not only map all the rock art sites, but also investigate the surrounding ground for ancient ceramics, plant pollen and animal bones. \"When an Italian archaeologist recently came for a brief visit, he found, within half an hour, a 7,000-year-old piece of pottery,\" said my Italian guide, Andrea Bonomo, who works for the company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spazidavventura.com\u002Fen\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpazi d'Avventura\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has been running trips to Chad for 30 years. \"Imagine what they will find with more time.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELater, Bonomo explained how in 2001, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fscience-environment-11979934\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eseven-million-year-old fossilised skull, nicknamed Touma&iuml;\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, was discovered west of Ennedi. The remains were far older than Ethiopia's famous skeleton, \"Lucy\", leading some people to believe that Chad could be the origin of humanity, and not Ethiopia's Rift Valley. According to Dr Baba Mallaye, a team member involved in the discovery, not only has Touma&iuml;'s age been scientifically validated by radio chronological analysis, but the team also found many other fossilised remains of Touma&iuml;'s cousins&nbsp;in the same area, proving that this was not an isolated case.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo reach Ennedi, Bonomo and I drove through savannah with desert roses, yellow grasses and acacia trees gleaming gold. We passed nomadic Wodaabe and Oulad-Rachid people on the move. Women and children rode up on camels, seated inside colourful chariots decorated with vivid fabrics, carved calabashes and rows of bronze bowls. Men walked alongside, leather amulets strapped across their chests like small suitcases to protect them from evil. Then the tarmac road stopped, the land emptied of trees and entering Ennedi was like stepping through a portal into a place between worlds.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEnnedi's rock art reveals the changes that have happened over millennia to this land. Like the whole of the Sahara, the area was once green and glittered with lakes. Many people once lived here, but now few do. As I wandered among the red monoliths, I saw images of elephants, rhinos, giraffes and ostriches &ndash; all common wild animals in Ennedi until relevantly recently. After the area became drier more than 6,000 years ago, these animals either moved south or died out. Yet, Ennedi remains known as the Eden of the Sahara because it receives more rain than the rest of the desert, creating wadis like green ribbons and permanent water sources fed by crystal-clear springs. Tropical plants bloom and relics of its more temperate times survive, like its desert crocodiles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fml6ft"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENot long ago, red-necked ostriches, addax and scimitar-horned oryx roamed this land in abundance, before being hunted to extinction. However, African Parks is now reintroducing these animals back into the wild. Meanwhile Ennedi may seem devoid of life &ndash; much of its wildlife is nocturnal &ndash; yet this is not the case. I stopped to pick up porcupine quills, saw rock hyrax sunbathing and huge Arabian bustards lifted off into flight. I watched beetles tiptoe across the hot sand and dorcas gazelles bounced along like gold pogo sticks. A fennec fox held my gaze, its enormous ears pricked up, before fleeing fast.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnce in Ennedi, Bonomo and I left the car and walked for six days &ndash; using camels to carry our bags and accompanied by two nomadic herders named Ousmane Adoum and Kalli Youssouf. On foot I could appreciate the scale of the land and its end-of-the-Earth feeling. We made camp each night just before sunset, lighting a small fire which the herders held their hands over for warmth, before drinking tiny glasses of sweet tea. On the first night, we camped inside a natural amphitheatre of rock, which felt almost spiritual. There was utter silence and the stars glittered overhead.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI climbed high into the rocks every day to see the desert floor strewn with mesas and buttes. Ennedi is the Saharan equivalent of the US' \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fnavajonationparks.org\u002Ftribal-parks\u002Fmonument-valley\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMonument Valley\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, with rock silhouettes popping up on every horizon, yet it lacks the fame of its American cousin, despite being more than 200 times the size. We walked between rock columns that looked like lost ruins. Every so often we'd stumble across isolated villages where nomadic Toubou or Bideyat people made houses out of palm mats.\u003Cstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn one village, I met a woman named Maimouna Abdoulaye sitting on the sand outside her home. She beckoned me inside and explained that as a herder, she loved the many depictions of animals. \"But why are the paintings sometimes so high and not on the ground like us? Perhaps they are made by desert djinns (spirits)?\" she wondered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fmlchx"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn addition to animals, Ennedi is unique for its life-size engravings of intricately decorated men and women. And because of their far-flung locations, Bonomo believes we were the first foreigners to stumble upon some of the petroglyphs and pictograms we found.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere was a ubiquity of cows, drawn in all sizes, that portrayed the big herds that once lived here before desertification. The profusion of coat patterns was extraordinary. Some had concentric designs, chevron motifs or meandering lines. The ancient artists also painted warriors with shields, hunters in action and lines of dancers with tall, plumed headdresses and jewellery. Some of the people pictured had large, alien-like round heads. \"Experts think the purpose of the paintings was mystical,\" Bonomo said. \"To have more animals and better hunting.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn many of the rock surfaces, I spotted different styles of painting. When Bonomo and I later visited the regional office of African Parks in the frontier town of Fada, I met with local archaeologist Dr Guemona Djimet. \"Unlike elsewhere in the Sahara, where places were abandoned, people have continuously lived here since the Neolithic times,\" he said. \"This is shown by the diversity of art superimposed on top of each other and is what makes Ennedi so special.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDjimet said that African Parks is trying to educate local people about the paintings' historical importance and are pointing out correlations to life today to school children. \"We show them details like the men wearing knives on their arms, just like their parents,\" he said. \"And the dancing is similar to that of the Kereda people, who now live south in the Sahel.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fml6ng"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThis is important because the caves are still used by local people for storage. \"This is a reserve, not a park. People have lived here for thousands of years so we need to work alongside them,\" Djimet said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis land certainly seemed anachronistic. We passed archaic ironworks, their stoves still sitting in the drifts, and uncovered Neolithic houses, tumuli and antique grinding stones.\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs archaeological explorations get underway, the Ennedi Massif may finally reveal a few of its ancient secrets.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-16T10:10:35Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ennedi Massif: Africa's remote geological wonder","headlineShort":"Africa's remote geological wonder","image":["p0fml66s"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"15.58","longitude":"22.58","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20200607-sabu-jaddi-the-site-revealing-the-saharas-verdant-past","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20160104-the-pyramids-few-tourists-have-seen","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190827-a-mystery-in-the-worlds-oldest-desert"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It contains one of the world's largest concentrations of prehistoric art, yet is barely known to the rest of the world.","summaryShort":"It remains largely unknown by the outside world","tag":["tag\u002Fenvironment","tag\u002Fart"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-15T23:11:09.34837Z","entity":"article","guid":"2a7d9a90-6c47-4dcf-b2aa-1120eb25efe8","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-16T12:24:43.484509Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230515-ennedi-massif-africas-remote-geological-wonder","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fchad","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fafrica"],"destinationStat":"africa","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220947},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles","_id":"642dd3f1122e041b0a5b94f2","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Hetty Lui McKinnon's unlikely combination of Vegemite, miso paste and butter creates an impossibly addictive, umami-packed noodle dish.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EButtery miso Vegemite noodles recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Hetty Lui McKinnon, from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.penguinrandomhouse.com\u002Fbooks\u002F671569\u002Fto-asia-with-love-by-hetty-mckinnon\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETo Asia, With Love\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere are some recipes that I have carried around in my head for years. This is one of them. It's not your everyday noodle dish, but once you have tasted it, you will likely want to eat it often. The noodles feature umami to the highest degree, with an unlikely combination of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-one-hundred-years-of-vegemite\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVegemite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, miso paste and butter creating an impossibly addictive noodle dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike many Australians, I have a deep affection for Vegemite. As a kid, a Vegemite sandwich (made by my mum with not quite the right ratio of Vegemite to margarine) represented assimilation and acceptance. I felt infinitely more Australian as I chowed down on a squashed Vegemite sandwich in the playground. While Vegemite is virtually the national dish of Australia, people around the world have a love\u002Fhate (mostly hate in my experience) relationship with the rich, yeasty sandwich spread. This recipe might be the one that finally converts doubters, but if not, just leave the Vegemite out and double the amount of miso.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E350g instant dried ramen or egg noodles\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E85g unsalted butter\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac12; tbsp Vegemite\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac12; tbsp white (shiro) miso paste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eextra-virgin olive oil (optional)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eblack pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60g (&frac12; cup) grated cheddar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ehandful of chopped chives\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the noodles according to the packet instructions until al dente, about 2-4 minutes. Drain, reserving about 125ml (&frac12; cup) of the cooking water and refresh the noodles under cold running water. Drain again.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the butter to the pan and swirl it around, allowing it to melt over medium heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the Vegemite and miso paste until smooth and well combined. Drop in the noodles and, using tongs or chopsticks, toss to coat in the miso and Vegemite sauce. If the noodles look or feel dry, add a touch of oil or some of the reserved cooking water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETransfer to serving bowls and season with black pepper. Sprinkle over the grated cheese and chives and serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(\u003Cem\u003EReprinted with permission from \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fhettymckinnon.com\u002Fcookbooks\"\u003ETo Asia, With Love\u003C\u002Fa\u003E by Hetty McKinnon. Photography by Hetty McKinnon\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles-2"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-06T20:02:23Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Buttery miso Vegemite noodles","headlineShort":"Buttery miso Vegemite noodles","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Hetty Lui McKinnon's unlikely combination of Vegemite, miso paste and butter creates an impossibly addictive, umami-packed noodle dish.","summaryShort":"An unlikely combination of Vegemite, miso paste and butter","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-05T20:02:40.467315Z","entity":"article","guid":"f62041ca-a389-4f54-9f73-b1735535ce41","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-01T11:58:10.408368Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220950},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries","_id":"642ad671122e041d4f4d60ec","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In one of his last interviews, chef Raghavan Iyer expressed his hope for his final cookbook to become his lasting legacy to Indian cooking, especially the versatility of curry.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ESince reporting this story, Raghavan Iyer had&nbsp;sadly passed away. This was one of the last interviews he did, and we publish this story and his recipe for Sri Lankan prawn curry as a celebration of his life and legacy as the iconic Indian-born American chef and author who taught us to cook Indian food and curries from around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.raghavaniyer.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERaghavan Iyer\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, chef, cookbook author, culinary teacher and curry expert&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCqempb3y2n6\u002F\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fp\u002FCqempb3y2n6\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epassed away on Friday\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;after a prolonged battle with cancer. According to a recent New York Times article, he&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F21\u002Fdining\u002Fraghavan-iyer-indian-food-cancer.html\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F2023\u002F02\u002F21\u002Fdining\u002Fraghavan-iyer-indian-food-cancer.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etaught Americans to cook Indian food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. He is the author of seven cookbooks, including the now iconic&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002F660-Curries-Raghavan-Iyer\u002Fdp\u002F0761137874\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002F660-Curries-Raghavan-Iyer\u002Fdp\u002F0761137874\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E660 Curries\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn one of his final interviews, he spoke about his latest &ndash; and last &ndash; book,&nbsp;\u003Ca title=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.workman.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fon-the-curry-trail\u002Febook\" href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.workman.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fon-the-curry-trail\u002Febook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOn the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced the World\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (published in February), to me over Zoom in early March. In the interview, Iyer expressed his hope for this book to become his lasting legacy to Indian cooking, especially the versatility of curry around the globe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his own words, the book is \"telling the story of how curry travelled out of India, all around the world\". He talked about how British colonisers in the 19th Century grew to like what he calls the saucy flavours of Indian food so much that they got their cooks to \"pound the spices together and put them in a jar\" so they could carry them back to England. \"They labelled it curry powder, and that's how the rest of the world knows it,\" he explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIyer was a culinary evangelist who wanted his readers to know that there is more to curry than just curry powder. \"Very often,\" he said, \"people tell me that they don't like the smell or taste of curry. And then I have to tell them, you are forgetting to add the word powder.\" Born and raised in Mumbai before he moved to the US in 1982, his understanding of curry came from his strong Indian roots. And in India, curry typically refers to something with sauce (rather than the spices used) and \"can be really versatile, made using just a single spice or 20 spices, or just herbs\". Typical ingredients include dried red chilli, turmeric, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20221102-coriander-the-unsung-hero-of-indian-cuisine\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ecoriander\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, cumin, fenugreek seeds, black pepper and cardamom used in various combinations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIyer described the book as his \"love letter to the world of curries\" and hoped it would be his \"lasting legacy to the richness and vastness of this dish simply called curry\". And so, there is history, folklore and familial connections scattered throughout the book, along with the detailed story of how curry has been adapted by various cultures both in the east and west.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe pointed to the South African \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171009-the-indian-dish-you-cant-find-in-india\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebunny chow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E as an example of how local communities adapted a simple curry to suit their needs and tastes. \"They added vegetables and meat with spices to a basic garbanzo bean stew, and turned it into a curry that they then stuffed into bread. It was a meal in a bowl that they could eat whenever they wanted,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe had been collecting curry stories and recipes from his various travels over the years (combined with extensive desk research for this book), from conversations with locals, meals at people's homes and at restaurants \"from fine dining to hole-in-the-wall places\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIyer called himself a big fan of Thai curries and said that \"if any country can take ownership of curries after India, it is Thailand, because of the richness of the pastes, and the spices and herbs that they use\". These distinct flavours include lemongrass, garlic, coriander stems, galangal and Thai basil.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHis recipe for prawn curry with darkened cinnamon, though, is from the tear-drop shaped island of Sri Lanka, a country with its own unique culinary traditions, one of which is the dark roasting of whole spices to release the flavours completely. Sri Lankan food, with its rich coconut milk gravies and liberal use of aromatic spices such as cinnamon, was another Iyer favourite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe called the country itself magical, with beautiful landscapes and people, a place where \"you could go literally from tea plantations to the ocean within the day\". And in the book, he waxed eloquent about the cuisine. \"A mellifluous array of curries marks the distinctive style of Sri Lankan food, a reflection of the Portuguese, Dutch and English who colonised the island for more than 130 years,\" he wrote. \"And let's not forget the influence of the Scottish tea growers, Muslims, Malaysians and Moors.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIyer's recipes are meant to be accessible for everyone, from beginners to experts. \"I handhold (readers) through the entire process, so if you can pick [the book] up and read it, then you can cook these curries,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ERecipe: Prawn Curry with Darkened Cinnamon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Raghavan Iyer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(serves 4)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E3 sticks cinnamon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp Madras curry powder\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E6 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 slices fresh ginger (each about the size of a quarter\u002F2.4cm), finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E450g (1lb) large prawns, peeled and deveined, but tails left on\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp coconut or canola oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp black or yellow mustard seeds\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 can (14oz\u002F400ml) unsweetened coconut milk\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup coarsely chopped fresh curry leaves\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely cracked\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tsp coarse sea salt\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPreheat a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the pan is hot (holding your palm close to the base, you should feel the heat within 5 seconds), break up the cinnamon sticks into smaller pieces for an even toast and throw them in the pan. Toast, stirring constantly or shaking the pan very often, until they darken further and smell incredibly fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer them to a spice grinder (or clean coffee grinder), and allow the pieces to cool, about 5 minutes. Pulverise the cinnamon to the texture of finely ground black pepper.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2&ensp;\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECombine the cinnamon, curry powder, garlic and ginger in a large bowl; add the prawns and toss to coat. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes or as long as overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EHeat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil appears to shimmer, add the mustard seeds, cover and cook until the seeds have stopped popping, about 30 seconds. Immediately add the prawns in a single layer and sear them for about 30 seconds on each side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EShake the coconut milk well and pour it in. Add the curry leaves, peppercorns and salt. Bring the curry to a boil and continue to cook until the prawns curl and turn salmon in colour, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the prawns to a serving platter. Keep warm.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EContinue to cook the sauce, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until it has thickened, 2 to 4 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the prawns and serve.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ETips:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENever buy ground cinnamon as the oils in it dissipate in aroma and flavour. You are far better off grinding the whole sticks just before use.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFresh curry leaves provide a mild citrusy flavour and intense aroma. Remove the leaves from the stem by sliding your fingers down the stem.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Excerpted from On the Curry Trail: Chasing the Flavor That Seduced the World by Raghavan Iyer. Workman Publishing &copy; 2023.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-04T13:36:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"'A love letter to the world of curries'","headlineShort":"The 'flavour that seduced the world'","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In one of his last interviews, chef Raghavan Iyer expressed his hope for his final cookbook to become his lasting legacy to Indian cooking, especially the versatility of curry.","summaryShort":"Raghavan Iyer's lasting legacy to the richness and vastness of curry","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-03T13:36:32.787216Z","entity":"article","guid":"3777a373-7097-4f9d-a21b-805b696a24c0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-06T10:57:19.700804Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220950},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia","_id":"646303e9122e041ca3317a97","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Ferik-trinidad"],"bodyIntro":"The raw fish salad, made with tuna and plenty of crisp vegetables, differentiates itself from poke or ceviche by way of fresh coconut milk.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf not for French explorer Louis-Antoine de Bougainville claiming Tahiti in the name of France in 1768, \u003Cem\u003Epoisson cru\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, the national dish of present-day French Polynesia, might have been called by its original Polynesian name \u003Cem\u003Ei'a ota\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; or \u003Cem\u003Eota ika\u003C\u002Fem\u003E as it's known in Tonga, or even its Fijian name \u003Cem\u003Ekokoda\u003C\u002Fem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFrench Polynesia, which comprises more than 100 islands in the South Pacific, has had a long history with European settlers, but in the end, it's the French who prevailed. While governed autonomously today, French Polynesia is technically an overseas territory of France, with the French language officially spoken and taught in schools &ndash; and used in many kitchens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPoisson cru literally translates to \"raw fish\", which is typically cut into bite-sized morsels, putting it in the family of Hawaiian poke and Latin American ceviche. The main difference: coconut milk. Sure, some poke and ceviche recipes may call for splashes of coconut milk, but it's an added tweak to their foundational recipes. In the case of the Polynesian counterpart, coconut milk is very much a component of the dish's definitive taste, the way shoyu and ponzu sauces are to many poke bowls. Like ceviche, poisson cru also calls for lime juice as an acidic \"cooking\" agent, and it is coconut milk that cuts the bite of the citric acid.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Poisson Cru recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe simple, pan-Polynesian raw fish salad made with a mix of vegetables is not just a meal; it's a part of the cultural fabric in Tahiti and its surrounding islands. \"This dish is an integral part of our lives,\" said Taina Maiau, who runs a small business on Tahiti-adjacent Moorea, where she is the island's first female boat captain. \"We have always lived near the sea and [give] thanks to it. Coconut trees are everywhere on our islands. We can have coconut milk every day.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPoisson cru is ubiquitous on Tahitian menus and served up at resort buffets on other islands in French Polynesia as well, like Rangiroa, Bora Bora and beyond. However, the mass preparation of this national dish in touristy resorts isn't exactly the best version of it, according to Teuai Lenoir, a Polynesian dancer and cultural ambassador based in the Tahitian capital of Papeete.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"They prepare [poisson cru] beforehand, maybe three or four hours, and they put it in the fridge, and they serve the guests,\" lamented Lenoir, who has witnessed the common kitchen practice in his previous career working on cruise ships and big resorts. \"If you leave it out for one or two hours, it changes. It's not the same taste. The fish, after two hours, will become all white. When it's white, it's not from the milk coconut [coconut milk]. It's from too much lime.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fld001"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELenoir is not a chef, but he knows, like any French Polynesian with any culinary skill, how to prepare his national dish. As a host to guests of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.iaoranatahitiexpeditions.com\u002Fen\u002Fhome\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIaorana Tahiti Expeditions\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, his own independent tour company, he finds joy in entertaining and educating guests on ancestral traditions &ndash; one being the preparation of poisson cru.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his rendition, the dish is only properly made when it's prepared just before eating, with milk squeezed from freshly husked and shredded coconuts. The fish is tender, but not overcooked from too much acidic lime juice; the freshly cut vegetables are crunchy; and the aroma and colours of all the ingredients shine. \"Peppers. I love putting them in the poisson cru,\" he raved, speaking about green, yellow and orange bell peppers. \"It makes the plate colourful, like a rainbow. When you look at a rainbow, it's beautiful.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen preparing poisson cru for small tour groups, Lenoir uses bright red ahi tuna, which he marinates in sea water. Not only does it bring a crimson hue to the dish &ndash; he passes on red bell peppers for this reason &ndash; but its lack of tiny bones is more palatable for Western mouths. In contrast, picking out and even sucking on fishbones were always a part of the poisson cru experience of his youth, growing up on Rurutu Island in the Austral archipelago, some 570km south of Tahiti.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, Lenoir serves his Western-friendly recipe family style as part of his cultural tours of Tahiti, paired with his preferred sides: boiled plantains, sweet potatoes, taro and breadfruit. Meanwhile on Moorea, Maiau's version, which incorporates red cabbage and parsley, has a different accompaniment. \"Locals love it with rice,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegardless of any recipe tweaks, poisson cru, through its fresh ingredients, is a culinary expression of French Polynesian life, aiming to feed the souls of both locals and visitors to its islands.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fld076"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Poisson Cru recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPoisson Cru recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Teuai Lenoir\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003Eserves 8\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E1kg (2.2lb) sushi-grade ahi tuna\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 fresh coconuts (or 710ml\u002F24oz unsweetened coconut milk from a carton, not a can)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 bell peppers of assorted colours (green, yellow and orange), seeded and diced into 2cm (&frac34;in) pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 medium-sized tomatoes, seeded and diced into 2cm (&frac34;in) pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 long cucumber, peeled and diced into 2cm (&frac34;in) pieces\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3-4 limes\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E50g (3-4 tbsp) shredded carrots\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E50g (3-4 tbsp) chopped green onions\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E50g (3-4 tbsp) chopped coriander\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECut the raw ahi tuna into 2cm (&frac34;in) cubes and marinate them in sea water for about an hour in the fridge. To simulate sea water, dissolve 35g (about 2 tbsp) of sea salt per litre of tap water.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EHusk the fresh coconuts, open them, then shred the meat into a bowl.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EDrain the tuna, then combine it in a big serving bowl with the bell peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EGather the coconut shreds into a cheesecloth and squeeze all the milk into the serving bowl. This should yield about 710ml\u002F24oz of coconut milk. Alternatively, you can source unsweetened, store-bought coconut milk.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECut and squeeze the limes for their juice into the bowl. Toss the carrots, green onions and chopped coriander into the serving bowl. Mix everything and serve immediately.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia-6"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-16T04:16:53.914Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Poisson cru: A simple raw fish salad from French Polynesia","headlineShort":"Tahiti's answer to poke and ceviche","image":["p0flcztw"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0flcztw"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230405-buttery-miso-vegemite-noodles","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230403-raghavan-iyer-a-love-letter-to-the-world-of-curries"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The raw fish salad, made with tuna and plenty of crisp vegetables, differentiates itself from poke or ceviche by way of fresh coconut milk.","summaryShort":"Coconut differentiates this crunchy raw tuna dish","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-16T04:17:28.652911Z","entity":"article","guid":"a9db7247-2225-43af-9ca0-d685a093b617","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-16T04:25:43.465283Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230516-poisson-cru-a-simple-raw-fish-salad-from-french-polynesia","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ftahiti","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Ffrench-polynesia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Faustralia-and-pacific"],"destinationStat":"australia-and-pacific_french-polynesia_tahiti_australia-and-pacific_french-polynesia_australia-and-pacific","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220950},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses","_id":"6420a2e0122e041ea6026168","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Not only has Odisha's Belgadia Palace been transformed into an award-winning boutique hotel, but its princess owners are redefining the role of Indian royalty.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs the bougainvillea-adorned gates opened and the smartly dressed footman greeted me, I was excited to see the palace for the first time. So too was my taxi driver, who had pulled over on three occasions en route to joyfully tell passing strangers where we were driving. The elegant white mansion that came into view at the end of the driveway seemed familiar, not just because I follow the property on social media, but also because the exterior was originally designed to replicate Buckingham Palace.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthebelgadiapalace.com\u002F\"\u003EBelgadia Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a refurbished 18th-Century royal palace in the East Indian state of Odisha. While it has housed and entertained guests of the royal family of Mayurbhanj for five generations, it has recently been transformed by its princess owners into an \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.travelandleisureasia.com\u002Fin\u002Ftnl\u002Findias-t-l-champions-2022\u002F\"\u003Eaward-winning boutique hotel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Not only are the sisters determined to restore the 11-bedroom, 2,100-sq-m palace to its former glory, they are doing it in a way that preserves the culture and history of Odisha.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAkshita Bhanj Deo and her sister Mrinalika &ndash; the princesses of Mayurbhanj &ndash; are part of the Bhanj dynasty, a royal family originating in the central and northern regions of Odisha that traces its roots to 697 CE. The sisters are the 48th generation, and the first to grow up completely post-Partition. After Indian independence in 1947 and the abolition of the privy purses (the payments made to royal families by the Indian government in 1971), maintaining grand properties became financially challenging for most royals, and transforming them into hotels became a savvy business move.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile there are a number of royal palace conversions across India, the opportunity to stay in one still resided in by royals &ndash; and learn about the history of the region directly from the family itself &ndash; is rare. In fact, the day-to-day involvement of the family is key to the success of the Belgadia Palace. Akshita regularly shows guests around the property and is heavily involved with the local craft projects such as sabai grass weaving, while their father, the maharajah, plays billiards with guests while regaling them with stories about local conservation projects.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAkshita met me on the driveway, and we walked through the arched entranceway that was built high enough for elephants to pass through. She told me that the ancestral property was originally used to entertain visiting foreign dignitaries, and the palace was filled with leisure areas: billiard rooms, vast libraries and the grand \"Edo\" Ballroom with its high ceiling and elaborate chandeliers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe interior oozed early 20th-Century glamour, a period often viewed as the region's golden era, from the swing jazz music playing in the ballroom to the peacock feather-adorned walls &ndash; a nod to the local folklore that the Bhanj dynasty were born from the eyes of a peafowl. Each generation has added onto the palace, with the newer white wings of the building spreading out sideways, but it's the sisters who have ensured its longevity, and who are redefining the role of Indian royalty through their work.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We grew up post economic liberalisation with access to world news – and then chose to come back and do something for our communities","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I think my parents were the lost generation really; they saw the privy purses being abolished [and no longer had a defined role] whereas for my sister and I, we grew up post economic liberalisation with access to world news &ndash; and then chose to come back and do something for our communities,\" Akshita said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAkshita and Mrinalika started renovating the property in 2015. It was slow work due to the sisters' intense focus on keeping the decor authentic and historically accurate. They upcycled some of the antique furniture\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tripadvisor.co.uk\u002FShowUserReviews-g2287521-d16814450-r878940480-The_Belgadia_Palace-Baripada_Mayurbhanj_District_Odisha.html\"\u003E,\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with other design choices coming from studying their grandfather's sketchbook and archived photos, many of which are now displayed on the walls of the property.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, they've also added a modern twist, introducing vibrant colours on the walls as well as a projector room for screening movies, a swimming pool and a giant outdoor chess set. This approach seems to be working: the combination has helped draw attention to the Belgadia Palace, with even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.vogue.in\u002Fculture-and-living\u002Fcontent\u002Finside-odisha-belgadia-palace-the-royal-residence-of-sisters-mrinalika-and-akshita-bhanj-deo\"\u003EVogue India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shooting here. The property now walks an unusual line between a royal palace and an elegant homestay, with guests mingling in the communal entertainment areas, playing chess and watching films in the screening room.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe emphasis on preservation, mixed with the introduction of modern necessities such as effective plumbing and WiFi, has at times been a challenge. \"One of the hardest parts was ensuring it was functional and still keeping the historical factors of the house,\" Akshita explained. \"The walls of the palace are so thick, it was difficult to get piping and wires through, and the ladders had to be specially made as they just don't make them 44ft as standard.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOdisha isn't on the radar for most international tourists, but the sisters are looking to change that. They are very active on social media, running \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBelgadiaPalace\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthebelgadiapalace\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E accounts for the hotel, as well as appearing in numerous magazine articles promoting both their property and the region. While these pursuits clearly bring in more business, they have the secondary benefit of helping to raise Odisha's profile &ndash; a state where 23% of the population is made up of tribal communities &ndash; and protecting the region's cultural heritage by providing a platform for artists and performers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"There's this part of the world which is not being given its due credit in terms of art and culture and so that's what we wanted to do. If people are interested in royalty that's great, but if we can take that interest and divert it into the community efforts and leaders of the community then that's our hope and aim [at the Belgadia Palace],\" explained Akshita.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA percentage of income from guests staying goes to the Mayurbhanj Foundation, a charitable fund founded by the sisters that supports the local communities through art, sport, education and sanitation programmes. The property also houses artist residencies, allowing guests to purchase pieces from local artists, and there are regular live musical performances.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOn the palace lawn one evening, we watched Odisse, a classical dance-form from Odisha originating in the temples. If you discounted the spotlights, we could easily have been watching a performance from 100 years ago, with a 14-year-old local dancer combining dramatic eye movements and timed footwork to tell the stories of the gods and goddesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The only way it is going to last another few hundred years is if people think, 'this property has a relevance to me'","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We know that the house and the legacy wouldn't last unless there was community support, and also that tourism has a multiplier effect on jobs and livelihoods. The only way it is going to last another few hundred years is if people think, 'this property has a relevance to me',\" Akshita said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETheir female entrepreneurial spirit and philanthropic nature is clearly something that runs in the family. Odisha has faced numerous invasions due to its strategic location, which historically kept male members of the royal family busy. That meant that the broader work looking after the Mayurbhanj region fell to the female family members, who focused on building hospitals, schools and buildings that promoted education and health.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe current two generations of the Mayurbhanj royals live on the second level of the palace, with Akshita and her sister in one wing and their parents in the other. In the shared living space, which was previously her late-grandmother's personal room, I could see this female influence in the design choices. Teal walls contrasted with pink velvet seats, huge, patterned rugs sat atop tiled floors and crystal bowls were filled with flowers. \"Prints on prints,\" as Akshita described it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMarrying members of other royal families was common in India, and Akshita's grandmother was the princess of Nepal. Akshita joked: \"You won't find any pictures of men in this room, just portraits of my grandmother with her sisters.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere was, however, an entire cabinet dedicated to the awards her grandmother's dog had won. This fusion of personal artefacts mixed with all the luxuries of a boutique hotel is what makes the Belgadia Palace distinct from other Indian royal properties. It also puzzled Akshita's grandmother, who lived at the property until her death in 2020.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Right until her passing she would sit with her binoculars and ask who the people [the guests] at the property were,\" Akshita said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith that, the princess headed off to take some calls, her Great Dane in tow. She left me with a parting gift: a handcrafted \u003Cem\u003Esabai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E grass basket made locally by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fhasa.atelier\u002F?hl=en\"\u003EHasa \u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fhasa.atelier\u002F?hl=en\"\u003EAtalier\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a brand empowering Odisha women to gain an income from their crafts. I'd spotted a similar one online in one of her recent photoshoots, where \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.villagesquare.in\u002Fodishas-humble-sabai-grass-makes-fashion-statement\u002F\"\u003Eshe was pictured\u003C\u002Fa\u003E holding it against the backdrop of the palace interiors, very on brand.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEver glamorous, with community artisans always at the forefront of her mind, is seems that Akshita is a true modern princess.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-03-27T10:53:11Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A heritage hotel run by princesses","headlineShort":"The princess sisters who opened a hotel","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"20.2376","longitude":"84.2700","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Not only has Odisha's Belgadia Palace been transformed into an award-winning boutique hotel, but its princess owners are redefining the role of Indian royalty.","summaryShort":"They've transformed the opulent palace into an award-winning boutique hotel","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-26T19:53:51.323951Z","entity":"article","guid":"e86d38af-9dfd-4003-a1c9-b6b0ad277b45","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses","modifiedDateTime":"2023-03-27T13:00:17.740445Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220955},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india","_id":"640f841d122e041b0845144d","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Nobody uses the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to get from A to B, but for the sheer joy of riding in a train that passes through 16 tunnels, 250 bridges and 208 serpentine curves.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Bollywood movie \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0164538\u002F\"\u003EDil Se\u003C\u002Fa\u003E may have opened to a lukewarm response at the Indian box office, but one of the song sequences from the movie remains a favourite melody 25 years on. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=hjBJCE36v-Q\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChaiyya Chaiyya\u003C\u002Fa\u003E isn't just memorable just for its catchy tune, but also because it was shot entirely on top of a moving train. Indian heartthrob \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Fname\u002Fnm0451321\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShah Rukh Khan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pranced around with a group of backup dancers as the train chugged slowly across lush hilly terrain, past tea plantations and over tall viaducts, steam billowing from the old-fashioned engine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI, too, have travelled on this very train, although my journey was far more comfortable and less precarious than Khan's. The \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.tamilnadutourism.tn.gov.in\u002Fdestinations\u002Fthe-nilgiri-mountain-railway\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENilgiri Mountain Railway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Nilgiri translates to \"blue mountain\" after the bluish hue the sun casts on the hills), which locals refer to as NMR or more fondly as the \"toy train\", is a delightful example of the clich&eacute; about the journey being the destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERunning though Tamil Nadu State, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ndtv.com\u002Findia-news\u002Fthis-is-indias-slowest-train-covers-46-km-distance-in-5-hours-3451261\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe train is the slowest in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E due to an extremely steep gradient on the route. It takes nearly five hours to cover a distance of 46km, climbing from the town of Mettupalayam at the foothills of the Nilgiris up to the hill town of Udhagamandalam &ndash; amended by British tongues to Ootacamund and then shortened by Indians to Ooty. The downhill ride back cuts an hour, but the journey by road takes just a fraction of that time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EClearly, nobody uses the NMR to get from A to B, but for the sheer joy of riding in a train that passes through 16 tunnels, 250 bridges and 208 steep curves on the richly biodiverse Western Ghats mountain range, a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1342\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E site.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArmed with a first-class ticket that cost Rs 600 (about &pound;6), I boarded the blue train at Ooty on a chilly morning, eager to experience this quintessential Nilgiris experience. (A second-class ticket is less than half the price, but without the light cushioning on the seats).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When you get into the train, it is like you enter another dimension","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ED Om Prakash Narayan, senior public relations officer with Southern Railway, which operates the train, told me, \"When you get into the train, it is like you enter another dimension.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI could see what he meant when I boarded the tiny coach. Families with children were crowded around the boxy windows, waiting for the promised views of the Nilgiris. There was a palpable sense of excitement among passengers, with everyone in a holiday mood, cheering and clapping when the train went through dark tunnels.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehindu.com\u002Fsociety\u002Frenovations-to-the-raj\u002Farticle19185190.ece\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EOoty is one of India's oldest hill stations &ndash; these towns at higher elevations were the summer retreats of the British Raj when they needed to escape the stifling heat of the plains &ndash; and remains popular among Indian tourists looking for a cool holiday or honeymoon. Today it's a crowded little town, with vestiges of colonialism hidden within the chaos of urban India. But as we left Ooty behind, reminders of the British Raj began to make an appearance, with station names like Lovedale, Wellington, Adderly and Runnymede.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It all feels unchanged from the British times, like time has stopped here,\" said Sharanya Sitaraman, who recently travelled on this train with her family. \"We almost could imagine European ladies with fancy hats getting off the train at these small stations.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERemnants of the Raj are particularly seen in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thehindu.com\u002Fsociety\u002Frenovations-to-the-raj\u002Farticle19185190.ece\"\u003Ecolonial design\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of several old buildings across the Nilgiris: offices, bungalows (some of which are now boutique hotels) and churches. The colonial feel is so evocative that Coonoor station, just an hour down from Ooty, became part of the fictional town of Chandrapore in David Lean's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0087892\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E1984 film adaptation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E of EM Forster's novel, A Passage to India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We almost could imagine European ladies with fancy hats getting off the train at these small stations","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"People on this train still see the same things that people saw more than 100 years ago,\" said retired journalist D Radhakrishnan, who reported for decades from the Nilgiris region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENarayan, a railways veteran of more than 30 years, agrees: \"Ooty and Coonoor have been exploited for their natural resources in the name of development, and you see this when you travel by road. But when you travel by this train, it feels like nothing has been touched.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWe passed tea plantations with workers bent over the leaves, and waterfalls that had sprung up after the monsoons. I kept leaning out of the window to see the train's serpentine twists and turns, keeping my eyes peeled for a glimpse of a stray gaur (Indian bison) or elephant in the thickets. There was incessant activity, with people getting off to stretch their legs and take photographs at the various stations on the way (some are for passengers and others are only to refill water for the steam locomotive). The halt at Coonoor was much longer, allowing the train to change from a diesel locomotive (used for the fairly flat ride until now) to steam, for more power on the slopes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe restful scenery and the gentle rocking of the train lulled me into a state of near somnolence. At one of the water stops, I fuelled up on piping-hot chai and \u003Cem\u003Emasala vada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (spicy fritters) sold by local vendors &ndash; quintessential elements of any train trip in India.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMangalore-based journalist Subha J Rao, who grew up in the plains near Mettupalayam, has similarly relaxing memories of the train trip from her childhood. \"We could actually get off and walk along with the train,\" she said. \"As adults, we now talk of the romance of train travel, but then as kids, we just enjoyed the experience, even with all the soot and smoke from the steam engine.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Nilgiri Mountain Railway, along with the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.dhr.in.net\u002F\"\u003EDarjeeling Himalayan Railway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in West Bengal and the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhimachalservices.nic.in\u002Fheritage\u002Fhistory.html\"\u003EKalka Shimla Railway\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Himachal Pradesh up north, are part of Unesco's Mountain Railways of India \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F944\u002F\"\u003EWorld Heritage listing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. All of them owe their existence to the British, who built them as a means of convenient travel to cooler climes during the sweltering summers. But Radhakrishnan was quick to point out, \"They brought in the railways entirely for their own comfort, not for the good of Indian people. If they could have taken it back with them, they would have.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhatever the intentions, creating this route on this treacherous hill terrain was highly challenging. According to Unesco, \"This railway, scaling an elevation of 326m to 2,203m, represented the latest technology of the time.\" Narayan explained that the gradient in some parts, such as the stretch between Kallar and Coonoor, is so steep that a unique \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fartsandculture.google.com\u002Fstory\u002Ffrom-track-to-incline-the-one-of-a-kind-nilgiri-mountain-railway-heritage-directorate-indian-railways\u002FvQWR1ukrMRO0JQ?hl=en\"\u003Erack and pinion system\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has to be used. This means an extra rail with sharp teeth in the middle of the tracks (rack) grips the toothed wheel (pinion) on the coach to prevent slipping and sliding. It was devised by the original Swiss engineering team hired by the Brits to design and oversee the construction. This design is found only in a few other Swiss railway lines today, apart from the NMR, and still works to this day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWork on the rail line began in 1891 and took 17 years to complete, making this the 115th year since the train started. Ooty itself is gearing up to celebrate a milestone anniversary in 2023, as it is exactly \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftimesofindia.indiatimes.com\u002Fcity\u002Fcoimbatore\u002Fat-200-queen-of-hills-needs-rejuventaion\u002Farticleshow\u002F91611237.cms\"\u003E200 years\u003C\u002Fa\u003E since British official John Sullivan came across this salubrious hamlet in the hills and added it to the increasing list of Raj summer retreats. That means the NMR has been part of Ooty's heritage for more than half of its existence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Radhakrishnan, there have been several plans to shut down this train service due to it being uneconomical. But it is such an integral part of Ooty's tourism sector that these plans get squashed as soon as they are mooted. \"Many people come here only for a ride on this train, and it is impossible to think of Ooty without the NMR,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhen we finally pulled into Mettupalayam, four calm and relaxing hours after leaving Ooty, I recalled something that Rao had told me: \"Travel on this train is a throwback to gentler times.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI found it to be an antidote to the stress and strife of everyday life, and as my own mind slowed to match the speed of the train, it was exactly the kind of throwback I needed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Frail-journeys\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ERail Journeys\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that celebrates the world's most interesting train rides and inspires readers to travel overland.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2023-03-14T10:13:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The slowest train journey in India","headlineShort":"The slowest train journey in India","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"11.4102","longitude":"76.6950","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Nobody uses the Nilgiri Mountain Railway to get from A to B, but for the sheer joy of riding in a train that passes through 16 tunnels, 250 bridges and 208 serpentine curves.","summaryShort":"It costs just £6 to travel in first class","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-13T20:14:03.887272Z","entity":"article","guid":"735c4602-3458-49ba-9304-7b087791fad6","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india","modifiedDateTime":"2023-03-15T07:18:23.023257Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220956},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community","_id":"645d4a8f122e041ecf6a3ce4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fcharukesi-ramadurai"],"bodyIntro":"In the crowded east Indian city of Kolkata, a small community of Hakka Chinese have been living quietly for more than a century now.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen Janice Lee went on holiday to China, she found that she couldn't wait for it to end. \"I couldn't speak the language, I didn't like the food and I felt very lost,\" she recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENot being able to fit into a foreign culture may not sound that strange &ndash; except that Lee is of Chinese origin herself. When she told me, \"I felt at ease only when I finally got back\", she was referring to her home in Kolkata. Lee is a fifth-generation Indian Chinese of Hakka origin, and works at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpouchongfoods.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPou Chong Foods\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a business started by her grandfather in 1958 to supply Chinese sauces and noodles to other Chinese residents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIndia's first Chinese immigrant, Tong Ah Chew (Atchew, according to British records), arrived in Kolkata with loads of tea in 1778 and set up a sugar mill near the city. As an eastern port, Kolkata was the closest entry into India from China and East Asia, so this became India's only Chinese community. The city's Chinese population swelled to more than 20,000 in the early 20th Century when many fled China to escape its civil war and conflict with Japan to find work in the tanning and leather industries. Here, they intermarried and integrated with locals, learning to speak Bengali and Hindi fluently.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELee explained that it was Ah Chew's association with sugar &ndash; \"\u003Cem\u003Echini\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" in many Indian languages including Bengali &ndash; that gave rise to the still-prevalent Indian word for Chinese people, best captured in the popular diplomatic slogan of the 1950s, \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fforeignpolicy.com\u002F2014\u002F09\u002F18\u002Fthe-rise-and-fall-of-hindi-chini-bhai-bhai\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EHindi Chini bhai bhai\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" (Indians and Chinese are brothers). Kolkata's original Chinatown is still called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=GdLCMdOx4hg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECheenapara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhgm9z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EToday, there are barely 2,000 people of Chinese origin left in Kolkata. But their culture is visible everywhere in the Tiretta (also called Tiretti) Bazar and Tangra neighbourhoods: in the street food vendors, the Taoist temples and community clubs, as well as the annual lion dances to welcome the Lunar New Year.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWhile cities like San Francisco and London are known for their Chinatowns, Kolkata's has remained under the radar. And while India still doesn't have any other Chinatowns, Kolkata counts not one, but two: the original one at Tiretta Bazar that has existed since the 1800s; and the settlement created later at Tangra in the early 1900s.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKolkata blogger \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Frangandatta.wordpress.com\u002Fblog-index\u002Fcalcutta-kolkata\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERangan Datta\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has been documenting local heritage for many years now, explained that a large chunk of the population was forced to move to a marshy area that used to be outside the main town when pollution-causing tanneries were shifted out of Tiretta Bazar in central Kolkata.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"The Chinese first settled in an area between the Bengali town and European town, where other foreigners like the Armenians and Greeks, as well as non-Bengalis such as the Marwaris and Parsis lived. All of them came to Kolkata then for trade or business,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhgm1s"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESurely enough, Bow Barracks (where the Anglo-Indian community lived), the Armenian Church and the Parsi fire temple all exist in close proximity within this multicultural neighbourhood. Even then, not everyone from the community lived in Tiretta Bazar, said chef Peter Tseng, a third-generation Kolkata Chinese, who grew up outside the area and remembers visiting his cousins living there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The Chinese have been living in close proximity with other communities since the beginning, and some of them speak better Bengali than me","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKolkata resident Swati Mishra, who led the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slideshare.net\u002FSwatiMishra49\u002Fthe-community-art-project\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECommunity Art Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at Tiretta Bazar, aimed at garnering local participation to rejuvenate their public spaces, said, \"Unlike typical Chinatowns, Tiretta Bazar is not a gated or enclosed community. The Chinese have been living in close proximity with other communities since the beginning, and some of them speak better Bengali than me.\" But Tangra, which was created later, does have the ornamental gateway typical of Chinatowns worldwide.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of the ways in which the Chinese community managed to bridge the gap with locals was through food. The first Chinese restaurants in India were set up in Kolkata by the local Hakkanese community, and over time, this Sino-Indian &ndash; or \"Chindian\" &ndash; cuisine made its way to the rest of the country. To this day, it remains their greatest gift to India, a constant favourite across the country and one of the mainstays of eating out in India, found everywhere from street carts to plush restaurants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhglyf"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ETseng, who grew up with what he calls the \"mild flavours\" of traditional Hakka food at home, said that cooks had to improvise to please Indian palates. \"They added green chilli, onions, coriander powder and even garam masala&hellip; to each their own,\" he noted pragmatically.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe addition of local spices and sauces gave birth to dishes like chilli chicken (using dark soy sauce) and \u003Cem\u003Egobi manchurian\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (fried cauliflower florets tossed in corn starch and spices), totally unheard of in mainland China. Pou Chong foods has also started making Indian sauces such as \u003Cem\u003Epudina \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(mint), \u003Cem\u003Ekasundi \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(the Bengali version of mustard) and a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fpouchongfoods.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fchilli-chicken-paneer-sauce\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Echilli chicken sauce\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; all loved equally by Kolkata's Indians as well as Chinese locals.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESunday morning Chinese breakfast at Sun-Yat Sen street in Tiretta Bazar is a beloved ritual for many Kolkata locals, who go for the fresh dumplings, wontons and noodles served at the makeshift street stalls. By 05:30, vendors are ready with tall, cylindrical aluminium steamers filled with pork buns, chicken momos and fishball soup. Meanwhile, Tangra is best known for Chinese restaurants such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBeijingbarandrestaurant\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeijing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Ah Leung, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FKimlingbarandrestaurant\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKim Ling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.goldenjoy.in\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGolden Joy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (Tseng's family favourite).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Kolkata Chinese is famous everywhere in the world, there is even a restaurant in New York,\" Lee declared, referring to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.tangrafusionnyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETangra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that serves \"Chinese Cuisine Indian Style\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being a part of India for more than a century now, Kolkata's Chinese community is rapidly shrinking and the neighbourhood itself is in danger of entirely disappearing, according to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.wmf.org\u002Fproject\u002Ftiretta-bazaar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWorld Monument Fund\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. Lee spoke of the challenges that come with living on valuable real estate in the heart of a populous city, with rampant \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-18039528\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eland grabbing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" and fights over property ownership.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhgls8"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe decline began with the Indo-China war of 1962, when even those who had lived here for generations were treated with suspicion and hostility. Hundreds of Chinese immigrants were rounded up without any basis and sent to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Findiadeoli.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Einternment camps in Rajasthan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the other end of the country, where they received harsh treatment. After they returned home to Kolkata, many decided to move to other countries where they had family and friends.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESince then, hundreds of tanneries and leather factories have also been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.indiatoday.in\u002Fmagazine\u002Fofftrack\u002Fstory\u002F20020325-for-the-insular-hakkas-of-kolkata-sc-order-to-shift-their-tanneries-is-bad-news-795651-2002-03-24\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eshut down on government orders\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the resulting loss of livelihood driving many more to Australia, the US and Canada. In the last few decades, young people from the Indian Chinese community &ndash; as with other communities in India &ndash; have moved abroad seeking better education and employment opportunities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDatta noted that most of his Chinese friends from school now live in Toronto, while Tseng said that only those with established businesses now remain in Kolkata, and are under pressure from their children to move abroad with them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We are a small, tight-knit community. We still follow our customs and come together for celebrations like the Chinese New Year","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELee herself doesn't bear any of the scars of the community's collective trauma, instead choosing to make the best of her life here. \"We are a small, tight-knit community. We still follow our customs and come together for celebrations like the Chinese New Year,\" she said. Tseng now works in Chennai and visits his parents in Kolkata once a year for the same festival. His voice trailed off as he said, \"As long as we have some family there, we will hold on to our culture&hellip;\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhglrk"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Lee, the integration has happened both ways, with Bengali vendors learning to speak in Hakka and selling Chinese vegetables like bok choy, kailan and mustard greens. Above all, she said, she likes living in India and feels like she belongs here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I can't do without \u003Cem\u003E\u003Cspan\u003Emishti doi\u003C\u002Fspan\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E and \u003Cem\u003Erasgulla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" she said with a laugh, referring to the quintessential Bengali sweets that are now an irrevocable part of her life.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community-14"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-12T20:04:55Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"India's disappearing Chinese community","headlineShort":"India's disappearing Chinese community","image":["p0fhgmbc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"22.5726","longitude":"88.3639","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fhgmbc"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230404-indias-10000-forgotten-mansions","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230326-a-heritage-hotel-run-by-princesses","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230313-the-slowest-train-journey-in-india"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In the crowded east Indian city of Kolkata, a small community of Hakka Chinese have been living quietly for more than a century now.","summaryShort":"One of their biggest contributions to the world is \"Chindian food\"","tag":["tag\u002Ffestivals","tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-11T20:05:18.849118Z","entity":"article","guid":"15cc1e74-75f7-4baf-8492-ca3c2d6275d1","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-11T20:09:26.751406Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230511-indias-disappearing-chinese-community","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Findia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fasia"],"destinationStat":"asia_india_asia","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220951},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","_id":"6399da67122e04233d08e146","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Similar to how hummus is viewed in the Arab world, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar – a popular vegetable spread based on roasted red peppers – as its own.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJust a decade ago, Melisa Hasanspahić from the eastern Bosnian town of Goražde could not have imagined that today she would be running a food production business based on a recipe she inherited from her mother. However, her life changed when she started selling jars of her homemade \u003Cem\u003Eajvar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a widely popular vegetable delicacy, which she had previously only gifted to her loved ones.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I love ajvar; I've always adored it,\" said Hasanspahić, now a food entrepreneur, whom family, friends and customers jokingly refer to as \"Lady Ajvar\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe orange spread, based on roasted red peppers, is not only adored by Hasanspahić but also by the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina &ndash; and the entire Balkan region &ndash; where other \"Ladies Ajvar\" like her give away or sell homemade ajvar in their communities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut while Hasanspahić uses red peppers and aubergine to make it, some argue that \"real\" ajvar should only consist of four ingredients: red pepper, oil, salt and vinegar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERecipes, however, depend on the region and the cook. Some, for instance, require the addition of garlic, others red onions, carrots and tomatoes. Some do not mention vinegar but suggest adding sugar. And many differ on whether the vegetables should be roasted, baked, boiled or even ground fresh. Whether the ajvar will have a sweet or spicy taste depends on the type of pepper used.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the first known published ajvar recipe, found in the Great Serbian Cookbook from the 19th Century, author Katarina Popović mentions both peppers and aubergine. Yet, Serbians usually make ajvar only from red peppers, while citizens of North Macedonia are typically the ones who also use aubergine.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe discrepancy between this first documented recipe and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fserbian\u002Flat\u002Fsvet-50895736\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ethe current method of preparation in Serbia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is likely related to the fact that people have moved around the region and shared food traditions.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESimilar to how \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20171211-who-invented-hummus\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehummus is viewed in the Arab world\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar as its own. Dua Lipa, a British singer of Kosovo origin, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=l9qacGzTJXc\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ereferred to ajvar as an Albanian dish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a 2020 interview, which infuriated some Serbians who insist that ajvar is Serbian, which in turn upset some citizens of North Macedonia who say it belongs to them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHeated ajvar debates have been sparked before, such as when the Slovenian media reported on the attempt of a Slovenian food company to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sta.si\u002F308983\u002Fmakedonski-revolt-proti-slovenski-zasciti-imena-ajvar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eprotect the name \"ajvar\" in the German market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E; and when RTS (Radio Television of Serbia) reported that a Serbian ajvar producer would \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rts.rs\u002Fpage\u002Fstories\u002Fsr\u002Fstory\u002F57\u002Fsrbija-danas\u002F1741280\u002Ffalsifikovan-leskovacki-ajvar.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Efile a lawsuit against one from North Macedonia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for falsely branding and selling its product as \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.fondazioneslowfood.com\u002Fen\u002Fark-of-taste-slow-food\u002Fajvar-from-leskovac\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELeskovac Ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\" (a famous ajvar produced in southern Serbia's city of Leskovac).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch like the 2003 Bulgarian documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt0387926\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhose Is This Song?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about a popular folk song that all Balkan nations claim as theirs, the battle over ajvar depicts the tragicomic nationalism ever present in the conflict-ridden region. In the countries that emerged from the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fnews.bbc.co.uk\u002F2\u002Fhi\u002Feurope\u002F4997380.stm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edisintegration of the former Yugoslavia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the 1990s, cultural and culinary heritage helped form a sense of identity, and every country longs to prove that what used to be a common good is exclusively its own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile there's little consensus over what constitutes the \"true\" recipe for ajvar, or which nation it officially belongs to, one thing that's for certain is that homemade ajvar is always produced in autumn &ndash; between September and October &ndash; during the \"pepper season\". The vegetables are individually cooked, peeled and then ground together with the remaining ingredients. Preserved in glass jars, ajvar is considered a \"winter food\" but is generally eaten year-round.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe versatile treat can be used as a topping, condiment, side dish or main course, although it's often served as part of \u003Cem\u003Emeza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a Balkan appetiser platter with cheese, salami and other cured meats, or with \u003Cem\u003Ećevapi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (Balkan minced meat sticks). It can be mixed with broth, served with steak or poured over omelettes, risotto or pasta. With a silky texture and salty-sweet flavour, it's pleasing even when simply spread on a slice of bread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The word \"ajvar\" comes from the Turkish word havyar, which means \"caviar\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe word \"ajvar\" comes from the Turkish word \u003Cem\u003Ehavyar\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"caviar\". According to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fserbian\u002Flat\u002Fsvet-50895736\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esome explanations\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it bears that name because peppers and oil were expensive and considered a luxury in Belgrade at the end of the 19th Century and \u003Cem\u003Ekafana\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (traditional Serbian eateries) marketed the orange spread on their menus as \"red pepper caviar\". Now, however, vegetables cost much less and thus ajvar is very affordable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Ajvar is made of peppers that are available to practically everyone; it's easy to make; it's relatively cheap&hellip; It can be a main course and a side dish &ndash; it's the caviar for the poor,\" said ethnologist Slađana Rajković, who is an adviser at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmuzejleskovac.rs\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ENational Museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Leskovac.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAcross the Balkans, ajvar has come to represent much more than just food; it's also a source of pride and comfort, and offers a sense of belonging. During autumn and winter, for example, people across the Balkans gather at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fexplore\u002Ftags\u002Fajvarijada\u002F?hl=it\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eajvar festivals\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and ajvar-making competitions to celebrate the spread. Ajvar's appreciation is also apparent in the online world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"We can show the world what the Balkan power is if we could get #ajvar trending,\" said Bosnian writer Aleksandar Hemon, who recently \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FSashaHemon\u002Fstatus\u002F1487131157992853506\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Etweeted an image of jars of different types of ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. His followers started posting their own jars and commenting on different versions of it in his thread.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt has also been trending within Balkan pop culture. Croatian musician Tonči Huljić wrote a witty song about an attempt to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=06xb2cuBZEY\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\"smuggle\" a jar of ajvar into the European Union\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has strict food import rules. A group of Serbian musicians expressed \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=En9TafENn-Y&amp;t=111s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea more intimate relationship with ajvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a song whose chorus translates to \"Ajvar &ndash; five letters; ajvar &ndash; one colour; a jar full of serenity that is only mine\". And last year's Kosovo-Albanian feature film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt13648212\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHive\u003C\u002Fa\u003E followed the true story of Kosovo war widow Fahrije Hoti, who founded an ajvar production company in her village to help widows regain their lives and become empowered.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the recent award-winning Serbian film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt7531860\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAjvar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a love story about a Serbian couple living in Sweden &ndash; the popular dish symbolises family, love and nostalgia, in which the introduction states that ajvar is \"commonly found in the suitcases of Serbian emigrants\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's precisely because of Balkans expatriates, many of whom live in Scandinavia, that ajvar has become popularised in northern European supermarkets, kitchens and even languages. The word \"ajvar\" has been entered into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsvenska.se\u002Fso\u002F?id=100597&amp;pz=5\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESwedish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fordnet.dk\u002Fddo\u002Fordbog?query=ajvar\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDanish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dictionaries, where it generally is defined as \"a pepper cream with Balkan origins\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAt \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slowfood.it\u002Fpresentazione\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETerra Madre Salone del Gusto\u003C\u002Fa\u003E festivals organised by the International Slow Food Foundation based in Italy, ajvar is dubbed as \u003Cem\u003Esalsa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (\"sauce\" in Italian). \"We would always sell all the jars [of ajvar] we would take with us,\" said Jasmina &Scaron;ahović, president of the Bosnian women's association \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fudruzenje.zena.emina\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEmina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which has been presenting ajvar and other Balkan foods at the events for several years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EApart from being a traditional food, ajvar &ndash; whose ingredients naturally fit into modern dietary trends &ndash; seems to have a bright future. It's suitable for vegetarians and vegans and doesn't contain gluten. Some vegan food and travel websites, such as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fyummyplants.com\u002Fproduct-reviews\u002Faccidentally-vegan\u002Faccidentally-vegan-ajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EYummy Plants\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simplyhealthyvegan.com\u002Fcreamy-ajvar-pasta\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESimply Healthy Vegan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.slavicvegan.com\u002F2020\u002F11\u002F14\u002Fhomemade-ajvar-balkan-vegetable-caviar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESlavic Vegan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fminimalist-traveller.com\u002F2020\u002F04\u002F08\u002Fajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMinimalist Traveller\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, recommend it to their followers. Recognising its market potential, the Croatian food company \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.podravka.hr\u002Finspiracija\u002Fajvar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EPodravka\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, for example, has started branding its ajvar as a vegan product.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"In line with the growing demand for vegan and organic food, more and more restaurants are including ajvar on their menus","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn line with the growing demand for vegan and organic food, more and more restaurants are including ajvar on their menus. \"It could not have come more naturally,\" said Željka Kisić, manager of vegan \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvegehop.hr\u002Fen\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVegehop restoran\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Croatia's capital of Zagreb. \"Ajvar is a special food that is difficult to avoid in our traditional cuisine and especially in a vegan diet.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERegional tourism companies are also seeing ajvar's potential and are targeting vegetarian visitors curious about Balkan cuisine, which is heavily dependent on meat and dairy products. For example, participants in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffoodtourbelgrade.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFood and Culture Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in Serbian capital Belgrade can try ajvar and learn about its links to local culture. South of Belgrade, in North Macedonia's capital of Skopje, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fskopjewalkingtours.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESkopje Walking Tours\u003C\u002Fa\u003E uses a similar concept by offering tailor-made vegetarian and vegan food tours that include ajvar tastings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"A few months before the pandemic, I came up with the idea to start doing Ajvar tours,\" said Elena Mitkovska, the company's founder. \"My family and I were preparing ajvar in our backyard and I told them it would be a wonderful idea to host travellers next year and show them the whole process, but then Covid-19 broke out.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMitkovska hopes to launch her Ajvar tour this coming autumn, which will be an all-day programme that allows guests to participate in the whole ajvar-making process, from cleaning the peppers and cooking to enjoying a family-style lunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Over the years, I have realised that people are looking for an experience in which they can have a personal touch with the local reality, and there is nothing more local and traditional than making ajvar in someone's home,\" Mitkovska added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJudging by travellers' reactions so far, Mitkovska believes that her Ajvar tours will be successful. And like many people in the Balkans, she cannot wait for autumn to come.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Falready-vegan\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAlready Vegan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E is a BBC Travel series that highlights dishes and cuisines from around the world that have been historically and culturally animal-free for eons.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2022-04-18T20:04:40Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ajvar: The vegan 'caviar' of the Balkans","headlineShort":"The Balkans' answer to hummus","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.669695","longitude":"18.9659567","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Similar to how hummus is viewed in the Arab world, practically every Balkan country claims ajvar – a popular vegetable spread based on roasted red peppers – as its own.","summaryShort":"This vegetable spread has sparked heated debates","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2022-04-17T20:06:31.476813Z","entity":"article","guid":"bd0f527d-321e-43f9-b195-2560ab9ee37f","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","modifiedDateTime":"2022-04-19T13:11:59.923383Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220957},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","_id":"6399da5f122e0476111d9006","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"‘People have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own’","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWinters are dear to 53-year-old Azemina Ahmedbegović. Not because she is a big fan of snow or the cold, but because when she was growing up in the central Bosnian city of Visoko, this is when important social events would take place. These were special occasions, where friends and family would come together for \u003Cem\u003Ećetenija\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a traditional Bosnian dessert made of sugar, flour and lemon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EĆetenija is simple in ingredients but complicated in making. It requires multiple pairs of hands to pull the sugar dough through roasted flour, turning it into a wool-like paste. Coordinated teamwork is crucial; one wrong move and the paste can easily snap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat is why at traditional Bosnian &lsquo;sitting parties&rsquo;, called \u003Cem\u003Esijelo,\u003C\u002Fem\u003E like the ones hosted by Ahmedbegović&rsquo;s parents, guests would participate in the making of ćetenija. Some made the paste and pulled it; or played traditional music, sang or danced. Others cheered for ćetenija-makers or teased them,or did nothing but eat it once it was made. But they all would have a lot of fun. &ldquo;It was easier to get through winters that way,&rdquo; Ahmedbegović recalled.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Video","iFrameType":"","videoImageAlign":"centre","videoUrn":[],"id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181003-the-secret-story-behind-turkish-delight\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe secret story behind Turkish delight\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20170802-the-dessert-thats-blocked-at-borders\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Palestinian dessert few can enjoy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190121-a-chinese-sweet-thats-a-homophone-for-reunion\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe sweet name despised by a president\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMany winters have now passed, and Ahmedbegović now lives in the city of Gračanica in north-eastern Bosnia, where she has started her own family. In the meantime, sijelos and group ćetenija-making activities have been replaced by TV and the internet in most Bosnian households. People who still organise sijelos, like Ahmedbegović&rsquo;s sister in Visoko, live far from her. Her new friends and colleagues in Gračanica didn&rsquo;t know much about ćetenija as it&rsquo;s not a common practice in that part of the country. So Ahmedbegović decided to teach them how to do it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFirst, she explained, the flour is roasted until lightly browned. Then, sugar and lemon juice are heated together, and, when caramelised, shaped into a ring by hands greased with oil. There should be just enough lemon to give the paste the right consistency, but not so much as to make it break. While the sugar paste is still elastic, it is placed onto the roasted flour and shaped it into a thinner ring that&rsquo;s repeatedly pulled until it becomes a fine floss. It is usually done by three to six people, mostly women, who sit around a \u003Cem\u003Esofra\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a round, low table. The room must be cold so that the paste can be &lsquo;flossed&rsquo; without breaking.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We took it from our homes out to the streets","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe process can take hours, so team members who get tired are often replaced by others. Meanwhile, other guests drink Bosnian coffee and sing traditional Bosnian songs. Once it has cooled down, ćetenija\u003Cem\u003E, \u003C\u002Fem\u003Ewhich tastes like starchy candy floss, is cut in small pieces and served on small plates to the guests.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe fun ritual easily made its way to Ahmedbegović&rsquo;s friends&rsquo; hearts, which convinced her to organise public performances of ćetenija-making through the &lsquo;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.gracanickokeranje.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGračaničko keranje\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&rsquo; women&rsquo;s association she runs in Gračanica. &ldquo;We took it from our homes out to the streets,&rdquo; said Ahmedbegović, happy to keep the tradition alive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlong with Ahmedbegović&rsquo;s association, more and more organisations across the country run public events to showcase the beauty of this plain yet tasty &lsquo;Bosnian candy&rsquo;. Performers usually wear traditional clothes and play \u003Cem\u003Esevdah \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(traditional folk music) during the shows in order to preserve the ceremony of ćetenija-making as part of Bosnian heritage.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ECultural association &lsquo;4T&rsquo; from Tarevci in Bosnia&rsquo;s north-east is one such organisation. Mustafa Mustajbegović, the association president, is proud to have learned the skill of pulling sugar when he was a young man at sijelo parties in his home town of Tarevci. Now 63, Mustajbegović is passing on the tradition to younger generations through public ćetenija-making performances as well as team competitions, which brings a supplementary element of fun. His association has so far hosted 15 &lsquo;Ćetenijada&rsquo; competitions in Tarevci and organised three of them in the capital of Sarajevo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe winners are those whose ćetenija has the thinnest thread. But it&rsquo;s not so much about winning as it is about socialising. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s about how it&rsquo;s made,&rdquo; Mustajbegović said, explaining that his competitions include a &lsquo;Maxi ćetenijas&rsquo; version, which must be made by 10 to 12 people. In theory, ćetenija can be pulled by a single person, but &ldquo;people have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own,&rdquo; Mustajbegović added.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn his book The Bosnian Cook: Traditional Cuisine in Bosnia and Herzegovina, author Alija Laki&scaron;ić put ćetenija in the &lsquo;\u003Cem\u003Ejela za sijela&rsquo;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (&lsquo;meals for social gatherings&rsquo;) section. And when you watch how it&rsquo;s made, ćetenija&rsquo;s thread-like appearance being pulled by multiple hands is reminiscent of a wire carrying connections among people. Journalist Pavle Pavlović even \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.oslobodjenje.ba\u002Fdosjei\u002Fteme\u002Fzicara-i-cetenija\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewrote\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that &lsquo;ćetenija was the first example of a social network, connecting people before Facebook&rsquo;.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Ćetenija makes people connected to each other,&rdquo; agreed Amna Sofić, president of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fpreporod.zenica\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBosniak Cultural Community Preporod Zenica\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, another organisation that manages occasional ćetenija-making events. Friendship, and even romance, is at its core.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the past, when the tradition was widely popular, young men and women would often flirt during ćetenija\u003Cem\u003E-\u003C\u002Fem\u003Emaking evenings. Young men would play pranks, such as putting a pinch of salt in the pot of sugar (which was usually cooling down in a separate room), to attract the attention of a girl they liked. In more advanced love cases, couples would guard the pot of sugar together, taking the opportunity to be alone. &ldquo;You are made by beautiful girls so they could gather their dear boys. Naughty boys have salted the sugar, and treated themselves,&rdquo; says one of the traditional Bosnian songs usually sung during ćetenija evenings. (\u003Cem\u003E&ldquo;Tebe su pravile lijepe djevojke da bi okupile svoje drage momke. Momci alčak bili - &scaron;ećer posolili, posolili pa se sami počastili.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlthough ćetenija is a beloved dessert in Bosnia, most of the rest of the world has not yet heard of it. That&rsquo;s because, despite its undeniable charm, Bosnian authorities don&rsquo;t do much to promote the country&rsquo;s cultural heritage, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fbalkans.aljazeera.net\u002Fvijesti\u002Fnematerijalno-kulturno-naslijede-bogatstvo-koje-se-mora-cuvati\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eaccording to a 2018 Al Jazeera report\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The national preliminary list of intangible cultural heritage, which is a prerequisite for Unesco nomination, doesn&rsquo;t contain any traditional cuisine. Some associations, such as Bosniak Cultural Community Preporod Zenica, are \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftntportal.ba\u002F2018\u002F12\u002Fsnimljen-i-dokumentarni-film-o-ceteniji-poslastica-bosanskohercegovacke-tradicije-foto\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eproposing that the Bosnian government\u003C\u002Fa\u003E puts ćetenija on the preliminary list.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut for it to happen &ldquo;a lot of effort, knowledge and awareness of one&rsquo;s own cultural identity is needed,&rdquo; according to retired university professor Enes Kujundžić, author of the book Sofra: Traditional Bosnian cuisine from cultural perspective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The role of cultural institutions, such as museums, libraries, institutes for the protection of heritage, and others, is particularly important,&rdquo; Kujundžić said. &ldquo;That is, however, missing in Bosnia and that is a problem.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA governmental lack of interest might stand in the way of ćetenija&rsquo;s international glory. But as long as there are memories of old times, the tradition will be carried on by individuals and local associations. And ćetenija will keep connecting people.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fcolumns\u002Fthe-ritual-of-eating\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ritual of Eating\u003C\u002Fa\u003E \u003Cem\u003Eis a BBC Travel series that explores interesting culinary rituals and food etiquette around the world.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands-12"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2019-02-07T15:15:05Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Bosnia’s intriguing dessert made by 12 hands","headlineShort":"The dessert you can’t make alone","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"‘People have not come to this world to be on their own, nor to make desserts on their own’","summaryShort":"Coordinated teamwork is crucial; one wrong move and it can easily snap","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:28:50.524042Z","entity":"article","guid":"8cefc27e-699b-4e13-8bbf-7de9c95db0ae","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:43:57.655473Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220957},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish","_id":"6399da60122e0461f043ed5b","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"When Jews fled Spain during the Inquisition, they carried their language with them. Today, Ladino reflects the trajectories of the Sephardic Jewish diaspora, but can it survive?","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOn our way to Sarajevo's Ashkenazi Synagogue for the Friday evening Shabbat (Sabbath) service, my friend Paula Goldman and I walked down cobblestone streets through the Ba&scaron;čar&scaron;ija, the old Ottoman area of the city, passing mosques, shops and a madrasa (Islamic school). It was the year 2000, and the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina still bore the scars of the Balkans War. A Nato tank rolled by as we crossed the Miljacka river.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs we entered the second floor of the salmon-coloured stone building with its four onion-shaped domes, light flooded through doors set with stained glass images of the Star of David and into the synagogue. We took our seats among the congregation as cantor David Kamhi took his place in front of the ark that held the \u003Cem\u003ETorah\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a scroll containing the Five Books of Moses). Soon, the synagogue filled with the harmonies of prayer. Paula and I looked at each other strangely when we heard &lsquo;\u003Cem\u003EAdonaj es mi pastor. No mankare de nad\u003C\u002Fem\u003Ea&rsquo; (The Lord is my shepherd. I shall not want) from Psalm 23 recited in what we thought was Spanish. After the service, I asked Blanka Kamhi, the cantor&rsquo;s wife, why the congregation was praying in Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;That wasn&rsquo;t Spanish,&rdquo; she responded. &ldquo;We were praying in Ladino.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20181002-north-americas-nearly-forgotten-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAmerica&rsquo;s nearly forgotten language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180705-in-milpa-alta-people-still-speak-aztec\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWhere people speak the Aztec language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20180429-australias-ancient-language-shaped-by-sharks\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EA language only three women can speak\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ELike many Bosnian Jews, Kamhi and his wife are descendants of the Sephardic Jews who were expelled from Spain by the Edict of Expulsion in 1492. During the Spanish Inquisition, Jews who did not voluntarily convert to Catholicism were expelled from the country, killed or forcibly converted. Sultan Bayezid II of the Ottoman Empire invited the displaced Sephardic Jews to settle in the Balkans, where they were permitted to maintain their religion and customs. Many chose to move to the Ottoman Empire, while others moved to North Africa, the Netherlands and the Americas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhen the Jews left Spain, they took their language with them. Over the last 500 years, the language has maintained the structure of medieval Spanish and sounds more similar to some forms of Latin American Spanish than European Spanish. &ldquo;We could not have contact with Spain and the Spanish language, and therefore we have a special language that we speak,&rdquo; Kamhi said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the language is known by a number of different names: Ladino, Judeo-Spanish, Judezmo, Spanyolit, Djidi&oacute; (in Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Haketia (in North Africa). And, according to \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.unesco.org\u002Flanguages-atlas\u002Findex.php\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it is one of the world&rsquo;s 6,000 languages that are at risk of extinction.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore World War Two, Sarajevo&rsquo;s Jewish population numbered around 12,000, and the people even printed their own newspaper in Ladino. After the Holocaust, only about 2,500 Jews returned to Sarajevo, with many of them restricting their use of Ladino to the home so as not to stand out. Since the post-World War Two Jewish community in Sarajevo was so small, the Sephardic Jews had to share a synagogue&nbsp;&ndash; the one where Kamhi led services until 2017 &ndash; with the Ashkenazi Jewish community, whose ancestors had relocated to Slavic countries from Germany and France following the Crusades. Because the Ashkenazi Jews primarily spoke Yiddish, the blended community relied on the Serbo-Croatian language to communicate, limiting the use of Ladino even further.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe continued use of this 500-year-old language fascinated me since I was a polyglot and spoke fluent Spanish. When I lived in Sarajevo in in the early 2000s, where I was working on post-war economic development projects, I often went to the Jewish community centre at the synagogue around lunchtime to meet the few remaining Ladino speakers and learn about their history as they socialised over cups of \u003Cem\u003Erakija\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (plum brandy) and coffee. I had to listen carefully to understand, hearing words like \u003Cem\u003Efazer\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (to do) and \u003Cem\u003Elavorar \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(to work) that sounded more like Portuguese and Italian than modern Spanish. I heard sounds like \"dj\" [dʒ] in the word, \u003Cem\u003Edjente \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(people), &ldquo;z&rdquo; [z] in the word \u003Cem\u003Eroza\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rose) and &ldquo;sh&rdquo; [ʃ] in the word \u003Cem\u003Epasharo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (bird) that don&rsquo;t exist at all in modern European Spanish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It doesn&rsquo;t matter where the Sephardic person lives, his homeland is the Judeo-Spanish language","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBefore they were expelled from Spain, Sephardic Jews already used some Arabic and Hebrew words since they read Hebrew religious texts and many lived under Moorish (Arab) rule. Ladino was also heavily influenced by the different regions of Spain where Jews had lived, &ldquo;This language that we speak is a mix of the dialects of Spain at that time, before the expulsion,&rdquo; Kamhi explained.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter the Spanish Jews fled towards the Balkans, the language was further shaped by the regions through which they travelled, adopting words and sounds from Italian, Turkish and other languages to which they were exposed. Today, Ladino holds a profound meaning of cultural belonging and survival for those who still speak it.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIn the Spanish documentary \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvimeo.com\u002F147637353\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EEl &Uacute;ltimo Sefard&iacute;\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Last Sephardi), Yusuf Altinash, a Sephardic Jew in Istanbul said, &ldquo;It doesn&rsquo;t matter where the Sephardic person lives, in Sofia [Bulgaria], in the Adriatic or in Istanbul, his homeland is the Judeo-Spanish language.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI returned to Sarajevo in 2012 with Prof Bryan Kirschen to film \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=R0qZYqb1OIU\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESaved by Language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a documentary about the last four Ladino speakers in Sarajevo: David Kamhi, Ester (Erna) Kaveson Debevec, Jakob Finci and Moris Albahari. As we conversed, I felt like I was in a game of linguistic hopscotch, jumping from my 21st-Century Spanish to their 15th-Century Spanish with leaps into borrowed words from Turkish and other tongues.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Ladino saved my life in World War Two,&rdquo; Albahari, a Bosnian Holocaust survivor, told us as we sat together in the Sarajevo Synagogue. In 1941, at age 14, Albahari used Ladino to communicate with an Italian colonel who helped him escape from the train taking Bosnian Jews to Croatia&rsquo;s Jasenovac concentration camp. Because Ladino, like Spanish, has many similarities with the Italian language, Ladino and Italian speakers can have a basic conversation and understand a great deal.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThat wasn&rsquo;t the only time Albahari used Ladino in World War Two to save his life, he told us. He met a Spanish-speaking Hispanic-American pilot in Drvar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, who thought Albahari was the enemy. &ldquo;I asked him if he spoke Spanish. He said yes. I spoke to him in Ladino. It was the only way to communicate. I took the pilot and his colleagues to a partisan base in [nearby] Ribnik.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ELadino was also helpful for Sephardic Jews to communicate with Italian army officers when they were interned in an Italian-controlled camp on an island off the coast of Croatia during World War Two.&nbsp;Kamhi&rsquo;s parents used the language to speak to Italian army officers at the camp. For Kamhi himself, speaking Ladino made it easier for him to attend school on the island. &ldquo;Since the two languages [Ladino and Italian] are similar, I soon learned Italian,&rdquo; he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDespite Sephardic musicians such as Yasmin Levy, Sarah Aroeste and Liliana Benveniste performing songs in Ladino around the world, young Sephardic Jews don&rsquo;t tend to be keen to learn the language. And when the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fworld-europe-34428554\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpanish government announced\u003C\u002Fa\u003E several years ago that it would allow descendants of Jews expelled during the Inquisition to apply for Spanish citizenship, young Sephardic Jews have begun opting to learn modern Spanish over the language of their ancestors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The new generation doesn&rsquo;t speak Ladino, they speak modern Spanish,&rdquo; Albahari said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow in their 70s and 80s, Sarajevo&rsquo;s last four Ladino speakers lament that the use of the language in the city will likely end with them. For them, Ladino uniquely represents their histories and identities and reminds them of their family intimacy. &ldquo;I began to speak in this language,&rdquo; Kamhi said. &ldquo;It was the language I used when I wanted to say something to my mother so others wouldn&rsquo;t understand.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, the only place to hear Ladino in Sarajevo is within the walls of its synagogue where cantor Igor Kožemjakin now leads the congregation, and those who wish to join them, in reciting some Shabbat prayers in the language &ndash; as opposed to Biblical Hebrew or Bosnian &ndash; as the synagogue&rsquo;s cantors have done for generations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;I don&rsquo;t know what will be the future of this language in Sarajevo or in the Sephardic world,&rdquo; Albahari said. &ldquo;But this language is a treasure. It&rsquo;s a memory. It&rsquo;s life. And it&rsquo;s necessary to preserve it.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E A previous version of this article stated that David Kamhi is the current cantor at Sarajevo's Ashkenazi Synagogue. He was replaced in 2017 by Igor Kožemjakin. We regret the error.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EVisitors can tour the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fsarajevo.travel\u002Fen\u002Fthings-to-do\u002Fashkenazi-synagogue\u002F137\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESarajevo's Ashkenazi Synagogue\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from 10:00-14:00, Monday to Friday (entry fee: 2KM). Friday night Shabbat services start at sunset and are open to the public. The service is usually led by cantor Igor Kožemjakin and includes some prayers and songs in Ladino.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Visit the synagogue","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish-13"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-10-18T17:17:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"The Bosnians who speak medieval Spanish","headlineShort":"The Bosnians who speak medieval Spanish","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"When Jews fled Spain during the Inquisition, they carried their language with them. Today, Ladino reflects the trajectories of the Sephardic Jewish diaspora, but can it survive?","summaryShort":"It helped them survive the atrocities of the Holocaust","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:24:37.794477Z","entity":"article","guid":"79ca88e4-45f9-4900-a560-26ee17fa3f3b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T02:38:19.493525Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220957},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones","_id":"645aa5a5122e041e2642b277","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Flidija-pisker"],"bodyIntro":"More than 60,000 vividly rendered tombstones dot the nation's countryside and offer a fascinating glimpse of medieval life in the region.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhenever I travel through Herzegovina, the southern part of my homeland Bosnia and Herzegovina, I go to a large field 3km west of the town of Stolac called the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nekropola.ba\u002Fen\u002Ffeatured\u002Fradimlja\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadimlja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E necropolis. There, I come face to face with 135 medieval tombstones arranged in densely concentrated rows. As I marvel at the geometric patterns, moons, stars and people seemingly greeting me with outstretched hands etched onto the white stones, I wonder who is buried there and how they lived. This isn't just any cemetery; it jealously guards hundreds of years of my country's history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECalled \u003Cem\u003Estećci\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pronounced\" \"stech-tsee\"), these monolithic tombstones are some of Bosnia and Herzegovina's most recognisable &ndash; if enigmatic &ndash; landmarks. Some 60,000 of these medieval stone monuments lie scattered across the nation's countryside (with a much smaller number found in neighbouring Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro), and are commonly grouped together in necropolises. Emerging from the greenery of the Bosnian hills and meadows, their vividly rendered designs have been puzzling historians and travellers for centuries, but continue to serve as a symbol of national pride and identity among Bosnia's multi-ethnic population.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStećci were made from the 12th to the 16th Centuries, and like gravestones elsewhere in the world, they are sometimes decorated with religious crosses and rosettes. Others show weapons, which could indicate the social status and profession of the deceased. Scenes of stag hunts, chivalry duels and circular group \u003Cem\u003Ekolo \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efunerary dances all offer fascinating glimpses of daily life in medieval Bosnia.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl6lrg"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome stećci have Cyrillic inscriptions containing information about the deceased, as well as philosophical remarks, such as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkosaca.ba\u002Fobjekt\u002Fkocerin-tablet\u002F?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EViganj Milo&scaron;ević\u003C\u002Fa\u003E epitaph, which reads: \"I once was as you are and you shall be as I am.\" These inscriptions reveal telling details about literacy levels of the time.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe word stećci (which is the plural of \u003Cem\u003Estećak\u003C\u002Fem\u003E) comes from the verb \u003Cem\u003Estajati\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, which means \"to stand\" because their purpose was to stand over the grave of the deceased and identify her or him. Due to their historical and cultural significance, stećci have been inscribed on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwhc.unesco.org\u002Fen\u002Flist\u002F1504\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco World Heritage List\u003C\u002Fa\u003E for their \"outstanding universal value\".&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the director of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmuseu.ms\u002Fmuseum\u002Fdetails\u002F278\u002Fhistorical-museum-of-bosnia-and-herzegovina\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHistory Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, Elma Ha&scaron;imbegović, one of the most interesting aspects of stećci is how they represent \"the intertwining and merging of different influences &ndash; Eastern and Western, Mediterranean, Byzantine and Central European, Catholic and Orthodox, [and] the influence of Latin and Cyrillic literacy\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThroughout history, the territory of modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina has been a meeting place of various cultures and religions. The Orthodox, the Catholic and the Bosnian church (a medieval church that existed between the 12th and the 15th Centuries) coexisted in medieval Bosnia, and many scholars agree that stećci were used by followers of all three religious groups, based on the Eastern Orthodox-inspired crosses and rosettes found on stećci, the Western-inspired motifs of a shield with sword, and certain inscriptions translating as, \"(a person) of true Roman faith\" or \"slave of God\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl6mcc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESome experts believe that stećci were created by the Bogomils, a dualistic religious sect originating in the Balkans. A less-popular theory links them with the Vlachs, a nomadic population that lived in the Balkans at the time. Interestingly, since anthropologists began studying stećci at the end of the 19th Century, Serbians, Croatians and Bosniaks (the three ethnic groups that comprise most of Bosnia and Herzegovina today) have all tried to claim stećci as their own.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHa&scaron;imbegović described this as typical for historically \"divided societies\" such as those in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which, she said, \"views culture and cultural-historical heritage exclusively through the prism of national politics and identity\". But as many stećcihave been neglected over the years, Ha&scaron;imbegović had a message for political leaders: \"Let them appropriate [stećci], but let them also take care of this World Heritage.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAmong the best-preserved and most valuable of these World Heritage sites is \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fradimlja.ba\u002Fen\u002Fradimlja-nekropola-stecaka\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ERadimlja\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The site's most famous symbol &ndash; as well as the first image that comes to mind for most Bosnians and Herzegovinans when they think of stećci &ndash; is a depiction of a male figure etched on one of the necropolis' tombstones, raising his right hand while his left clutches a bow and arrow. Some anthropologists think it could represent a gesture of prayer to the Sun or Moon.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe motif of the raised hand is also common in the work of the Bosnian poet Mehmedalija Mak Dizdar, who grew up near Radimlja. \"Stone Sleeper\", his 1966 masterpiece, was inspired by stećci drawings and inscriptions, and is considered one of the most significant literary works in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Dizdar's poems reawakened Bosnians and Herzegovinians to the importance of these stones, and remind us to honour our past while embracing our identity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl6pw7"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAs a result, stećci &ndash; an in particular, the raised hand &ndash; have come to embody the Bosnian spirit of cultural openness. Today, the image elicits an emotional connection for many Bosnians and Herzegovinians.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFollowing in the footsteps of Dizdar, younger Bosnian Herzegovinian artists have recently begun to explore stećci and incorporate them into their works. Sculptor \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FAddisAEF\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAdis Elias Fejzić\u003C\u002Fa\u003E interprets the nation's present and the future by looking at its past. \"I don't know what the creators of ancient stećci saw in their stones and wanted from them, but I know what I see in them. That's why I'm reviving that tradition after several centuries [by sculpting them],\" Fejzić said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne of Fejzić's stećak-like sculptures stands in front of Australia's Parliament House in Canberra, as \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abc.net.au\u002Flocal\u002Fstories\u002F2013\u002F03\u002F20\u002F3719839.htm\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ea gift\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from Bosnia and Herzegovina to Australia. Another \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=QcdqQFTTvjE&amp;t=64s\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewas erected \u003C\u002Fa\u003Ein Odense, Denmark, at the request of Bosnian Herzegovinian refugees living there. The majority of his works, however, are in Bosnia and Herzegovina.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"With stećci, I am most directly connected to our Bosnian and artistic origins,\" Fejzić said. \"The stećak is also a 'time machine' with which I communicate so easily and quickly in my own perception and creativity with traditions and styles from [our past].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fl6p7m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EStećci have also inspired the works of award-winning illustrator and designer \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fninamasinanina\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAleksandra Nina Knežević\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, who has made illustrations for books and other projects based on the tombstones. \"What I find very inspiring and attractive about stećci is that the motifs that appear (on them) celebrate love, life, joy and a generally positive attitude,\" Knežević said. \"This reveals the sensibility and desires of the people of that time, our ancestors, and says a lot about our heritage, our character and our nature.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKnežević is far from alone. Another young artisan using stećci to embrace his cultural heritage is coppersmith Denis Drljević, whose \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fabrakabakracopperart\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAbrakaBakra Copper Art\u003C\u002Fa\u003E shop is located in Mostar's Old Town. \"I started using motifs from stećci from the very beginning of my practice of this craft,\" Drljević said. \"They represent one of the oldest artefacts of our history.\"&nbsp;Last year, Vedrana Božić, who runs the Mostar art and craft gallery \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fclairenoelgallery.com\u002F?page_id=1116&amp;lang=en\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EClaire Noel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, started selling fashion bags with her paintings of stećci printed on them: \"I love the mix of tradition and modernity, and I wanted to present our cultural heritage in a modern way,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBesides illustrations, copper reliefs and bags, travellers can now purchase stećak-inspired \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fphoto\u002F?fbid=1787470568051920&amp;set=pcb.1787470994718544\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewomen's jewellery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fphoto\u002F?fbid=3161352284084657&amp;set=pcb.3161352497417969\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Edecorative pins\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fphoto\u002F?fbid=464127805741417&amp;set=basw.AboODiM9cE7s7kC0zbAP1DrBHbTVJ4BDX7OWCJcDq2rRO4cwlS3fi1vaYWnvNJQWbd-zwjVglbJwSNuAelwC8hHdThMntG3t2jU4azRyjpKpzRTPlO0aRGsEn5PlfJnj6hfbctWAJYV6EObzR4-Q0ADE&amp;opaqueCursor=AbroEcRgOiEkK9jDVVeoAbRcNbCfP4HcS-i01Cdc4MbMaLcCqmQyi5WeSDREMp-f7Ckm7LL_v1iTyp6Aems-kTffzMdwA2zULaYrN-zUhpY_0nikEywQCABtVJ9XQR-nGTpLTgSSFwHUxTbQ91CzHhBaZ5G9KTftmQ7evsZq7eHCrkNyDgot_UF584Ir8Q-GOuU8_k6iEowakXWWIjCVBUnVZjTIsUtoEQ57w9ij6MUamjetZLff-xTnCsNupX2EjpO68W7hBbU0eCN1VWktleHoyL61e7nzjl6y_qhdh53KeuGfIuLoAVCQWYVfI451iEfrD6BBXb9Odnba5-mldZ_CVRGhSkw5lJbTs9bznkJbAXHwiq0WBxJ_j2zxg6qg0HGYsIUzjCVNG8B_8YY7ffmx3a0DDEhTAD1sPt0sSqA48oL52gd3PTNKlyAc0P4KlzVO8w8CZ_Qd0B4b-Cqz7is2vcwwKWZ80bR4mJ2anC3x_QpIkkbvAHPx5vVNWzcZTdgWGtbfpa9Nyvv9QnRMiMMvEP6QlOa1yXg76gNAjCpa-VvtalpglyG4x-EuyOzzVeUzm5H2PKliv_Eri5g2p7TAumFylIkR_zp6P-7DHFsW7O-jB5nLV_ec-rJjNwJaF5paiAM1UAhPbcHYOdTVSgfVClWE63uRkKCt5THxAOwiSDLS4OGpN6P2ZuCC3sn-bTyuW5UFXo5vUL07TsMuCcJ_SwBoJiLjgNSEJDc6MxLALYCzINYz7yfshwe0D-Qhrc6JSenQ9r1Y5p36MhbsdjIA_4e_lRvJb1tuVVaD420eQ2TOIb2F6N5llvy-TBoRmh5RoPmSBzHSutnVkFRwW7_UayJ5oCdp8kWJlTtMLYXqvA\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ET-shirts\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and other souvenirs honouring the country's medieval past.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHistorian Gorčin Dizdar (the grandson of the famous poet) wrote a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fikvrijeme.ba\u002Fproizvod\u002Fstecak-gorcin-dizdar\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E about stećak and also promotes Bosnian and Herzegovinian culture through his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fmakdizdar.ba\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMak Dizdar Foundation\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. One of the Foundation's recent projects was to gather young people from across the nation to compile an interactive \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstecakmap.info\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EStećak Map\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in order to identify previously unregistered stećci and digitise already-known ones.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"infographic","image":["p0fl6mlz"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhile Dizdar, local artists and younger Bosnians are embracing stećci as a source of pride, many of these necropolises remain neglected by local authorities. Radimlja, for example, is \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fkons.gov.ba\u002FContent\u002FRead\u002Fugrozeni-spomenici\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Eon the list of endangered national monuments\u003C\u002Fa\u003E because an industrial and commercial zone was built in the immediate vicinity.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe media often report on cases of damage to stećci and their deterioration. Three years ago, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.slobodnaevropa.org\u002Fa\u002Fbosnia-i-hercegovina-stecak-prodaja-oglas\u002F30571886.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ean online ad\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from a Bosnian hoping to sell an alleged stećak near his house triggered strong public reactions. Some condemned him, while others condemned the government's negligence in protecting these sites.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut as more and more of the public is reawakening to the value of these mysterious medieval relics, the hope is that a growing grassroots movement can spur authorities to better preserve them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I think that it is a very positive trend because in this way, younger generations and individuals who are not necessarily interested in medieval art, encounter this very valuable element of our cultural heritage,\" Dizdar said.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E--\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones-10"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fculture-identity"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-10T19:56:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Bosnia and Herzegovina's mysterious 'stećci' stones","headlineShort":"Eastern Europe's mysterious tombstones","image":["p0fl6llc"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"43.0852","longitude":"17.9593","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":null,"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20220417-ajvar-the-vegan-caviar-of-the-balkans","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20190206-bosnias-intriguing-dessert-made-by-12-hands","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20181017-the-bosnians-who-speak-medieval-spanish"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"More than 60,000 vividly rendered tombstones dot the nation's countryside and offer a fascinating glimpse of medieval life in the region.","summaryShort":"They offer a fascinating look at medieval society","tag":["tag\u002Fhistory"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-09T19:57:08.150076Z","entity":"article","guid":"cf11e41c-5290-4da4-869e-a69761b48787","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-10T15:04:00.794252Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230509-bosnia-and-herzegovinas-mysterious-steci-stones","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fbosnia-and-herzegovina","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_bosnia-and-herzegovina_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220956},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master","_id":"6399da5d122e04620d4ce39a","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Vada pav is synonymous with the city of Mumbai, with almost every resident, from factory workers to Bollywood stars, unabashed in declaring their love for it.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESuresh Thakur dropped another batch of potato patties, known as \u003Cem\u003Ebatata vada\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, into the cooking oil that had been sizzling in a massive iron pan since early morning. He&rsquo;d already shaped the patties, made with mashed potato mixed with masala spices, green chilli and, occasionally, finely chopped raw onion,&nbsp;into near perfect spheres, and dipped them quickly in a thick chickpea batter just before frying. The vada made a gentle hiss as they hit the oil, and the aroma of the chickpea batter floated in the air, making me impatient. A few tosses and turns, and the vada were ready.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThakur sliced open a soft, square bread roll called a \u003Cem\u003Epav\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, slathered on some green chilli-coriander chutney, and gesturing to me with a bowl of dry garlic chutney asked, &ldquo;Lahsun?&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was almost as if I was biting into the original taste of Mumbai","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI nodded, and he sprinkled on a generous quantity of garlic chutney, then pressed the vada on top. He wrapped the sandwich in a piece of old newspaper, added a side of fried green chilli (in case the spice hit was not enough) and handed it to me in exchange for 12 rupees (roughly 14 pence).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAs my teeth sank into the soft cloud of pav and the crispy vada, it was almost as if I was biting into the original taste of Mumbai. It was a perfect contrast of tastes and textures: the chewy blandness of the pav acting as a foil to the piquant crunchiness of the vada. Even to my palate, shaped by years of spicy food, the first mouthful was a fiery hit. I could feel the tang of both chutneys spread across my tongue. The vada pav is a delectable carb overload &ndash; an instant energy boost. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171009-the-indian-dish-you-cant-find-in-india\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAn Indian curry you can&rsquo;t find in India\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20171120-georgias-addictive-cousin-to-pizza\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGeorgia&rsquo;s addictive cousin to pizza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20161006-indias-biryani-wars\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIndia&rsquo;s dish that unites &ndash; and divides\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EToday, this snack is synonymous with the city of Mumbai, with almost every resident, from factory workers to college students to Bollywood stars, unabashed in declaring their love for it. More than two million of these crispy, flavourful sandwiches are consumed in India&rsquo;s financial capital and largest metropolis every single day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;For a city that&rsquo;s always on the move, I think the vada pav makes for the quickest, wallet-friendly, on-the-go snack,&rdquo; travel blogger Kaushal Karkhanis, who runs a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fvadapav.wordpress.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ewebsite\u003C\u002Fa\u003E dedicated to this single dish, told me. &ldquo;I think it&rsquo;s the first &lsquo;eating out&rsquo; experience for just about anyone in Mumbai. At this price, it cuts across social strata and is a great leveller.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EWhile the vada pav is delicious (as fried snacks tend to be), the overwhelming love for this snack often leaves outsiders bemused. But the truth is that the Maharashtrian capital has a close cultural connection with the vada pav that goes way beyond taste.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe dish is believed to have been invented in 1966 by a Mumbaikar, Ashok Vaidya, who opened the first vada pav stall opposite the Dadar train station, through which hundreds of thousands of workers &ndash; often in need of a quick, inexpensive snack &ndash; passed every day on their way to the textile mills in suburbs such as Parel and Worli. Vada pav was an instant hit with Bombayites (as Mumbaikars were then known). Vaidya remains a Mumbai icon; one local journalist even made a documentary about him, called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.imdb.com\u002Ftitle\u002Ftt5231546\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EVada Pav Inc.\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EAfter strikes throughout the 1970s and &lsquo;80s eventually led to the textile mills&rsquo; closures, many former mill workers opened vada pav stalls of their own with the encouragement of Maharashtra state&rsquo;s right-wing political party, Shiv Sena.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"For a city that&rsquo;s always on the move, I think the vada pav makes for the quickest, wallet-friendly, on-the-go snack","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The vada pav was subsequently co-opted by the Shiv Sena in order to offer a Maharashtrian alternative to the Udupi joints that were extremely popular at the time,&rdquo; explained Mumbai-based food writer Meher Mirza, referring to the stalls set up by people from the South Indian temple town of Udupi in Karnataka. Shiv Sena&rsquo;s campaign followed the rise in popularity of several south Indian dishes: the \u003Cem\u003Edosa\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a crepe-like pancake made from fermented batter, traditionally stuffed with a spicy potato filling) and the \u003Cem\u003Eidli\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a savoury steamed cake made from black lentils and rice). The goal was to convince Mumbaikars to spurn &lsquo;outside&rsquo; snacks and embrace their own cuisine, a strategy that worked very well in those turbulent economic times. &nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIronically, both of vada pav&rsquo;s main components &ndash; the potato and the bun &ndash; are European imports, brought into India by the Portuguese around the 17th Century. The only key ingredient originally belonging to the region &ndash; or even India &ndash; in the dish, is the \u003Cem\u003Ebesan\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (chickpea flour) in which the potato mix is coated before being deep-fried. Still, Mumbaikars consider the vada pav a thoroughly &lsquo;Bombay&rsquo; (as Mumbai is still called by many of its residents) dish.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe vada pav industry in Mumbai chugged along peacefully until the 1990s with the arrival of international chain restaurants like McDonald&rsquo;s, which served vegetarian burgers similar to vada pav to accommodate many Indians&rsquo; aversion to beef. But although the patties consist of fried potato, McDonalds&rsquo; McAloo Tikki burger could not be more different from the beloved vada pav. Not only does it not match the spice levels of the home-grown vada pav, but it also leaves little room for artistry. The flavour of vada pav depends entirely upon the whims of the cook, with every vendor claiming to have a secret recipe or a special ingredient that makes his vada pav unique: a pinch of ground masala, or a topping of \u003Cem\u003Echoora\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (the crispy crumbs left at the bottom of the frying pan) along with the vada. It&rsquo;s no wonder that the vada pav has always remained more popular in Mumbai, where it flies off street stalls like the proverbial hot cake.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It&rsquo;s the true taste of the city","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the early 2000s, local entrepreneur Dheeraj Gupta saw an economic opportunity and franchised the vada pav in his chain \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.jumboking.co.in\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJumboKing\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;Calling it the &lsquo;Indian burger&rsquo; immediately gave it an aspirational value, as well as a cultural context for those outside Mumbai city,&rdquo; Gupta told me.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe company also introduced several new spins on the traditional treat, such as the Schezwan vada pav (inspired by Chinese cuisine) and the Nacho vada pav (topped with tortilla chips). Gupta says that the modern variants have struck a chord with consumers, accounting for more than 40% of sales. JumboKing now has 75 outlets in Mumbai alone, with each selling more than 500 vada pav every day, Gupta said. The chain can also be found in cities like Pune and Indore, and Gupta has plans to expand his reach even further over the next five years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, many Mumbai residents still vouch for the taste of the vada pav made in the street-side stalls. The most popular vada pav stalls &ndash; such as Aaram Milk Bar opposite the Chhatrapai Shivaji Terminus or Ashok Vada Pav in the suburb of Dadar &ndash; can still be found near suburban train stations across the city in order to serve the commuters who rely on the &lsquo;Bombay local&rsquo; trains (as residents call them) to get to work. Some vendors have even begun serving adapted versions, dishing out Schezwan and sweetcorn vada pav with panache.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBut as a former Mumbai resident, I am still partial to the original vada pav. To me, it&rsquo;s the true taste of the city.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"If You Only Read 6 Things This Week\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Earth, Culture, Capital and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2018-04-02T20:30:36Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Vada Pav: The ‘Indian burger’ McDonald’s can’t master","headlineShort":"The burger McDonald’s can’t master","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Vada pav is synonymous with the city of Mumbai, with almost every resident, from factory workers to Bollywood stars, unabashed in declaring their love for it.","summaryShort":"It just couldn’t compete with Mumbai’s beloved vada pav","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:15:57.556901Z","entity":"article","guid":"7c560066-7a50-47df-acd3-2b54715c3c48","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master","modifiedDateTime":"2022-07-04T05:30:24.33732Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20180401-vada-pav-the-indian-burger-mcdonalds-cant-master","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220962},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","_id":"6399da63122e042edf69dd7f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI didn&rsquo;t see it coming, that mild feeling of electric currents buzzing on my tongue as if I&rsquo;d licked a battery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003ESeated on a busy pavement in front of a lazy Susan weighed down with sizzling hotpot, diced rabbit and fish soup, I was digging into a spicy meal on the humid first night of a visit to Chengdu, the capital of China&rsquo;s south-western Sichuan province and the cradle of the region&rsquo;s famously fiery cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe plates resembled volcanic islands, each dish&rsquo;s contents swimming in chilli oil hidden beneath a red-hot mountain of peppers and garlic. Tongue ablaze and face flushed, I felt a prickliness starting to numb my taste buds. The waiter chuckled at my glistening forehead and handed me a handkerchief; it was clear who at the table was the foreigner not yet acclimated to local flavours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as m&aacute;l&agrave;","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EUnsettling at first, that tingly feeling of electricity offered a pleasant reprieve from the heat. This curious effect was thanks to one of the most integral ingredients in this province&rsquo;s distinctive cuisine: the tiny-but-mighty Sichuan peppercorn, a spice indigenous to China.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe seasoning&rsquo;s English label is a misnomer, as the &ldquo;peppercorns&rdquo; are actually husks of dried berries from a type of prickly ash shrub. When you eat chillies, capsaicin induces a burning sensation known in Chinese as&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003El&agrave;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Sichuan peppercorns produce a phenomenon called paraesthesia, in which the lips and tongue feel as though they are vibrating and go vaguely numb &ndash; known as \u003Cem\u003Em&aacute;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E. Together, the tandem combination of burning and numbing from these two ingredients is known in Chinese as \u003Cem\u003Em&aacute;l&agrave;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a hallmark of Sichuan cuisine that facilitates sweating &ndash; and thus creates a cooling effect that makes the sweltering climate more tolerable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The level of humidity in Sichuan can make you feel lethargic and uncomfortable,&rdquo; said Cheng Yi, who owns the Cheng Big Mouth Frog restaurant, which specialises in Sichuan-style frog stew, in the nearby city of Chongqing. &ldquo;Sichuan peppercorn not only adds fragrance but also helps combat dampness.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Traditional Chinese Medicine, the human body&rsquo;s constitutions are intimately connected with the surrounding environment. Highly humid weather, which Chengdu experiences year-round, is said to create dampness in the body, which can lead to headaches and bloating. Eating spicy food and sweating can mitigate the adverse physiological effects of humidity.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;We always joke that if you have a cold, just go eat a meal of potently m&aacute;l&agrave; food and you&rsquo;ll recover,&rdquo; Cheng quipped. &ldquo;By eliminating toxins from the body through sweating, you&rsquo;ll feel much better the next day.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EI indeed felt cooler as the meal wore on, despite sitting outside in the moist air. And despite not feeling hungry at first, my stomach became a bottomless pit as I continued eating; the Sichuan peppercorn was also soothing my mouth with its vaguely anaesthetic prickliness, enabling me to eat more by rendering the spice of the chillies a little less fiery.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;When it&rsquo;s humid in the summer, your appetite isn&rsquo;t as good. But stimulating flavours can spur you to eat more,&rdquo; said Gan Siqi, a born-and-bred Chengdu native and avid cook.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThe cuisine&rsquo;s restorative effects seem to have given Sichuan food a reputation within China for being rather irresistible. Gan frequently cooks Sichuan dishes for out-of-town guests and has seen many unwittingly get hooked on the cuisine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;When people first try Sichuan food, on one hand they will fear it &ndash; because they&rsquo;re pouring sweat and their tongues go numb &ndash; but they will also want to eat it again,&rdquo; said Gan.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;As a foreigner, I wasn&rsquo;t 100% convinced that hotpot was the best, or even that delicious. But I think it only took a few times, and I was hooked,&rdquo; said Trevor James, who explores Sichuan street food for his blog and YouTube channel \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thefoodranger.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Food Ranger\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EJames told me many people have the misconception that Sichuan food is one-dimensionally hot. After living in Chengdu for six years, he would describe the food as more aromatic than spicy. &ldquo;The level of fragrance that you get in Sichuan food is unlike anything in the world,&rdquo; he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200226-the-berry-that-keeps-asia-looking-young\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe berry that keeps Asia looking young\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20200930-nshu-chinas-secret-female-only-language\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina's secret female-only language\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E &bull; \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fgallery\u002F20190225-a-750-year-old-japanese-secret\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EIs Japan losing its umami?\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EMuch of that unique fragrance comes from Sichuan peppercorn. And while m&aacute;l&agrave; is one of the best-loved flavour profiles of the cuisine, the peppercorn&rsquo;s aroma plays a part across different types of Sichuan dishes, not only the spicy ones. Chefs often use it to heighten other seasonings and concoct more balanced, harmonious flavour profiles. Simmering fresh Sichuan peppercorn in oil, for example, produces a vaguely numbing oil that can enhance noodles, salads and sauces. Grinding it into a powder makes an ideal addition to a dry rub for roasted meat.&nbsp;The spice&rsquo;s ability to complement many different flavours partly explains how it became so ubiquitous in the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Chongqing is a port city, and back in the day, a lot of workers did hard labour by the docks,&rdquo; said Elaine Luo, a Chongqing native who runs the blog \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.chinasichuanfood.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EChina Sichuan Food\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. &ldquo;The wealthy people in Sichuan ate a lot of beef, but they saw the offal as unrefined, something to throw away. So, the labourers would take the offal for a source of protein.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EFor those workers in Chongqing, which was part of Sichuan province until 1997, Sichuan peppercorn was a cheap way to mask the gamey taste of otherwise pungent meats. Today, famous dishes such as \u003Cem\u003Efūqī f&egrave;i\u003C\u002Fem\u003E \u003Cem\u003Epi&agrave;n\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; thinly sliced beef offal tossed with chilli oil, Sichuan peppercorn and garlic &ndash; make star ingredients of those cuts once considered lower-class.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EDining habits are often necessitated by geography and circumstance, and only later evolve into distinct regional lifestyles. Sichuan&rsquo;s food is now considered one of the Eight Great Cuisines of China &ndash; which are commonly recognised by Chinese chefs to be the best and most sophisticated cuisines in the country &ndash; and in 2010, Chengdu was the first Asian city to be designated a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fen.unesco.org\u002Fcreative-cities\u002Fchengdu\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EUnesco Creative City of Gastronomy\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThanks to the growing Chinese diaspora and increasing cultural exchange, Sichuan cuisine is also one of the most celebrated regional Chinese cuisines overseas, with restaurants such as hotpot chain \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.haidilao.com\u002Fen\u002Findex\u002Findex.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHaidilao\u003C\u002Fa\u003E recently launching dozens of international locations in the UK, North America, Australia and Asia. The cuisine&rsquo;s popularity is especially impressive considering that the importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005 over concerns the spice may carry crop bacteria.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"The importation of Sichuan peppercorn to the United States was banned between 1968 and 2005","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EEven today, finding fresh, potent Sichuan peppercorn overseas can be challenging; what I&rsquo;ve purchased in the US lacks aroma and often comes with seeds and twigs. Taylor Holliday, founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fthemalamarket.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Mala Market\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a blog-turned-import specialist that sources Sichuan spices &ndash; says that often happens when the ingredient is processed by machine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;[Machine-sorting of Sichuan peppercorn] leaves a lot of seeds, but that&rsquo;s what most people will export because there&rsquo;s no manual labour involved,&rdquo; she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EOver the years, Holliday has learned Sichuan peppercorn must be hand-sorted in order to leave only the husks.&nbsp;&ldquo;It really does make a huge difference in the taste,&rdquo; she said. &ldquo;A carefully processed Sichuan peppercorn just tastes much more fragrant and [is] much more potent.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-20"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-21"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIf chefs can get their hands on it, fresh Sichuan peppercorn at its full potential may have myriad applications even beyond Sichuan cuisine. Nowadays, restaurants outside China have begun using the numbing ingredient in non-traditional ways. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.millenniumhotels.com\u002Fen\u002Fsingapore\u002Fm-social-singapore\u002Fbeast-and-butterflies\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBeast &amp; Butterflies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in the M Social Singapore Hotel recently included it in a chocolate and banana sphere dessert. The Washington DC-area joint \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhotlolaschicken.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHot Lola&rsquo;s\u003C\u002Fa\u003E adds it to a variation on Nashville hot chicken. And in New York, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fshelskys.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EShelsky&rsquo;s Brooklyn Bagels\u003C\u002Fa\u003E sprinkles it atop a Sichuan pepper bialy (a yeast roll that&rsquo;s similar to a bagel).\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;The world is a global village now. You can try some of what&rsquo;s mine, I can try some of what&rsquo;s yours. I think it&rsquo;s great,&rdquo; said Luo.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EThis means more people around the world can discover the ingredient&rsquo;s powerful effects, which Sichuan locals say are both physiological and mental. Despite rapid development that has seen Chengdu taken over by skyscrapers in recent decades, the city has a decidedly carefree feel that noticeably contrasts with the fast-paced metropolises of Shanghai or Shenzhen. To some locals, Chengdu&rsquo;s easy-going vibe can even be traced back to its gastronomy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-22"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-23"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E&ldquo;Compared to people from other provinces, Sichuan folks pay more attention to quality of life. We believe, since we are alive today, we should live for the present,&rdquo; said Luo. &ldquo;Eating m&aacute;l&agrave; supports this mindset.&rdquo;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EIt&rsquo;s almost as if the powerful burn of spicy foods, coupled with the afterglow of peppercorns numbing away the pain, somehow makes m&aacute;l&agrave; food cathartic. Some dishes even derive their names from this belief: \u003Cem\u003Eshāngxīn li&aacute;ngfěn\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or &ldquo;sad jelly noodles&rdquo;, is said to be so named because the strong m&aacute;l&agrave; flavours will bring tears to your eyes. &ldquo;If you&rsquo;re sad, and you eat some of those jelly noodles, you won&rsquo;t be sad anymore,&rdquo; said Luo. &ldquo;You&rsquo;ll be dripping sweat and feel reinvigorated, as if you just vented any negative feelings.&rdquo; One might say Sichuan&rsquo;s m&aacute;l&agrave; flavour is the gastronomic encapsulation of life&rsquo;s ebb and flow: alternating discomfort and contentment, taking turns to reign over the senses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003EBack at home and craving Chengdu&rsquo;s potent flavours, I thought about what Luo said as I tucked into a steaming bowl of \u003Cem\u003Emapo tofu\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (or &ldquo;pock-marked grandmother&rsquo;s tofu&rdquo;, so named because it was first served by a Chengdu grandmother in the 1800s with smallpox scars. It&rsquo;s a pungent dish of tofu and pork swirled with fermented broad bean paste, chillies and, of course, Sichuan peppercorn. The frenzy of flavours set off firecrackers on my tongue, quietened moments later by the welcome sensation of numbness. But, as I learned in Chengdu, there&rsquo;s an addictive quality to that one-two punch. The chillies didn&rsquo;t wait long before beckoning me for another bite.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools-24"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2020-11-11T21:02:21Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"","headlineLong":"Sichuan peppercorn: A Chinese spice so hot it cools","headlineShort":"A Chinese spice so hot it cools","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":null,"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"It’s one of the key ingredients in Chinese “málà” cooking, and its effects are said to be both physiological and mental.","summaryShort":"Its effects are said to be both physiological and mental","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-10T23:57:31.036641Z","entity":"article","guid":"6b56a586-1cea-407d-a4fe-f8ec730af12a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:18:05.578986Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20201110-sichuan-peppercorn-a-chinese-spice-so-hot-it-cools","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220963},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language","_id":"64459f0b122e041b1477a1cc","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"As Britain redefines its modern identity, the Cornish are re-finding their place in the nation through their ancient language, Kernewek.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Here lived Dolly Pentreath, one of the last speakers of the Cornish language, as her native tongue died December 1777.\" So says a faded granite plaque on an old stone wall in Mousehole, a fishing village in south-western Cornwall that heaved with holidaymakers on a hot summer's afternoon. I stopped to take in this momentous linguistic monument, then turned against the crowd and walked uphill along a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nationaltrust.org.uk\u002Fdiscover\u002Fhistory\u002Fgardens-landscapes\u002Fwhat-are-sunken-lanes\"\u003Esunken lane\u003C\u002Fa\u003E until a half mile later I stumbled into a graveyard.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHere, in the neighbouring village of Paul, a faded headstone commissioned in 1860 by Napoleon's nephew, the linguist Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte, marks Pentreath's grave. A humble \"fishwife\" from Mousehole, Pentreath spoke \u003Cem\u003EKernewek \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(or Cornish), a Celtic language older than English that all but disappeared after her death.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECornwall's history, culture and language stretches back to the end of the Roman Empire in Britain. Although modern Cornwall is one of the United Kingdom's most beloved tourist spots, the region struggles with unemployment, a housing crisis and more, firing up calls for more independence from distant London amongst nationalist groups who are proud of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fhistory\u002Fbritish\u002Fempire_seapower\u002Fcornish_nation_01.shtml\"\u003Etheir distinct heritage\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. A scholarly revival in the 20th Century brought Cornwall's indigenous language back from the dead, and now, as the number of speakers increases, Kernewekis helping Cornwall to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20210606-cornwall-the-uks-forgotten-fifth-nation\"\u003Ecement its Celtic identity in modern Britain\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\"Dalghus yw Kernewek avel tra yn gwirvos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Cornish is inclusive as a phenomenon],\" said Will Coleman, the founder of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fgocornish.org\u002F\"\u003EGo Cornish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an educational project providing Cornish language teaching programmes to primary schools. \"\u003Cem\u003EDell vynnav, pub huni a drig omma yn Kernow dhe omglew bos an yeth rann poosek a'ga honanieth gonisogethek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [And I want anyone who lives here in Cornwall to feel that the language is an important part of their cultural identity].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe origins of Kernewekare found in Common Brythonic, a Celtic language spoken by native Britons that diverged into Welsh, Breton (still spoken in Brittany, France) and Cumbric (spoken mainly in northern England and southern Scotland until about the 12th Century) when Anglo-Saxon invaders pushed British kingdoms westwards &ndash; and even across the English Channel to Brittany &ndash; from the 5th Century CE onwards. In Britain's south-west, the isolated Cornish peninsula became a natural refuge for the language, and as many as 38,000 people (out of a total population of around 50,000) spoke Kernewekat its peak in the Middle Ages.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe number of speakers fell dramatically, though, when the Tudors imposed English in Cornish-speaking churches after the bloody 1549 Prayer Book Rebellion (a mass uprising against the English monarchy that left thousands across the south-west dead), and, by 1777, just a handful of Cornish speakers remained in far western holdouts. Pentreath's death came to represent the death of the language itself &ndash; until a Cornish scholar named Henry Jenner published A Handbook of the Cornish Language in 1904, which kickstarted a Celtic revival in Cornwall.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I only knew there was a Cornish language when I was growing up because we had this tea towel with these strange words that I didn't understand on it","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EKernewek, though, remained in the domain of academics and eccentrics for decades. \"I only knew there was a Cornish language when I was growing up because we had this tea towel with these strange words that I didn't understand on it,\" said Coleman, who started Go Cornish &ndash; which now helps around 10,000 students learn Kernewek in 50 primary schools &ndash; as a response to the invisibility of his homeland's native language. \"But the tea towel taught me basic words; like \u003Cem\u003Ebara \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efor bread, or \u003Cem\u003Echi \u003C\u002Fem\u003Efor house. Then at secondary school, I could do a half-hour Cornish language club a week. But that was it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"\u003Cem\u003EDydh da\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" I heard as I walked into \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcornish-language.org\u002Fkowsva-shop-at-heartlands\u002F\"\u003EKowsva\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Cornish-language bookshop located in the former mining town of Camborne, a 40-minute drive east of Mousehole. Copies of the Tin Tin comics translated into Cornish caught my attention, while stacks of English-Cornish dictionaries and medieval plays like the Ordinalia &ndash; an epic 14th-Century mystery written in Middle Cornish &ndash; filled the shelves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI'd been greeted in Cornish on my way in and given a \"\u003Cem\u003Emeur ras\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (thank you) and \"\u003Cem\u003Eduw genes\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" (goodbye) by the volunteers on my way out of the bookshop. Kowsva is one of the projects overseen by \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcornish-language.org\u002F\"\u003EKowethas an Yeth Kernewek\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (The Cornish Language Fellowship), a charity that also organises events like the \u003Cem\u003EPennseythen Gernewek\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a three-day \"Cornish Language Weekend\" that claims to be the largest annual gathering of Cornish speakers in the world.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EKowsva(which roughly translates as \"talking place\") is part of the wider \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartlandscornwall.com\u002F\"\u003EHeartlands\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartlandscornwall.com\u002F\"\u003E\"\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartlandscornwall.com\u002F\"\u003E project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a repurposed mine site outside Camborne that's home to a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.heartlandscornwall.com\u002Fmuseum-heritage\u002F\"\u003Emining museum\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and a \"Diaspora Garden\" exploring Cornish links across the world. Meanwhile, a formerly derelict brewery in the nearby town of Redruth is home to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fkresenkernow.org\u002F\"\u003EKresen Kernow\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a cultural centre housing the Cornish archives, which can be visited by anyone interested in the Cornish language and heritage. Both institutions are feeding the cultural demand of a Cornish \"nation\" that's hoping to flourish once more.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"In the five years that I've worked at the Cornish Language Fellowship, we've seen a massive shift towards people learning and speaking Cornish,\" said Emma Jenkin, the coordinator for Kowethas an Yeth Kernewek. \"I was in the pub in Truro just last night, where our language group meets a few times a month to speak only in Cornish.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 2010, Unesco \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Fnews\u002Fuk-england-cornwall-11935464\"\u003Ereclassified Cornish\u003C\u002Fa\u003E from \"extinct\" to \"critically endangered\", as the language spread from academia into mainstream education and use. According to the Cornish Language Office, a local governmental organisation that aims to increase the use of Cornish as a community language, an estimated 400 speakers are at an advanced level and 2,000 are conversational, while many thousands more have some knowledge of the language. During the Covid-19 lockdown, Jenkin saw a surge in signups for the online Cornish language lessons offered by Kowethas an Yeth Kernewek, and now they have more demand than there are teachers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe revival of the language is in full swing, but it's not been smooth sailing. Coleman explained how Cornish has been plagued by what he called the \"spelling wars\", a schism between different groups that promoted different versions and spellings of the language. Even the word Kernewekhas several different spellings, while the idea of a \"Cornish revival\" is even contentious.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It was never extinct,\" said Kensa Broadhurst, a Cornish language teacher and researcher at the University of Exeter's \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fhistory.exeter.ac.uk\u002Fresearch\u002Fcentres\u002Fics\u002F\"\u003EInstitute of Cornish Studies\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. \"It was always critically endangered, but it was never extinct.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWas Dolly Pentreath, the fishwife whose story I'd searched out in Mousehole, really the last Cornish speaker? \"No,\" said Broadhurst. \"There were others after her that spoke Cornish, families that you can trace the link down through the 19th Century.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe language also survived in common use in Cornish names, place names and the numbers used by fishermen in places like Penzance and Mousehole, while academics continued to write papers and publish dictionaries that demonstrated an active use of the language after Pentreath's death. Jenner's A Handbook of the Cornish Language, published in 1904, is widely taken as the moment when the Cornish language was brought back from the dead, but according to Broadhurst, the extinction myth was emphasised to increase the allure of the \"revival\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe distinction shows that Cornish is not simply a dead language made up again by 20th-Century academics, but a language that has a continual link to Cornwall's past. Broadhurst believes this not only helps push Cornwall's unique identity as what she called the \"fifth nation of the United Kingdom\" but could provide the credibility the language needs to be taught in secondary schools, rather than just nurseries and primary schools as it currently is.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"When I was growing up, my mother always told me that we weren't English. We were Cornish. So, we always had a feeling that something was missing","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EFor many, the language is a link to a lost Cornish heritage that was heavily Anglicised over the centuries. It's a heritage that's often difficult to describe in English terms. \"It was always in me,\" said Esther Johns, a Cornish teacher who runs the Cornish language cookery show Kegin Esther (Cooking With Esther) on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fanradyo.com\u002Fpellwolok-tv\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EAn Mis\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E television programme. \"When I was growing up, my mother always told me that we weren't English. We were Cornish. So, we always had a feeling that something was missing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe revival of the language is part of a wider cultural rally that in recent years has seen Cornish-language films, the release of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gwenno.info\u002Ftresor\"\u003Ealbums sung entirely in Cornish by the Welsh singer Gwenno\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, and the performance of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.stjustordinalia.com\u002F\"\u003EOrdinalia plays\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with speaking parts in Cornish that were banned by the English monarchy and branded as heretical in the 16th Century. Johns recently released a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcornish-language.org\u002Fproduct\u002Fkegin-esther\u002F\"\u003ECornish language cookery book\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, too.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut Cornish has many challenges to overcome, including a lack of qualified teachers and competing demands for funding in a region that's consistently ranked as one of the poorest in Northern Europe.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMousehole, the traditional fishing village where my journey in search of the Cornish language began, is beset by a lack of affordable housing driven by overtourism and high levels of second-home ownership. In a part of the United Kingdom where more than \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cornwall.gov.uk\u002Fhousing\u002Fhousing-intelligence\u002F\"\u003E22,000 people\u003C\u002Fa\u003E are on a social and affordable housing register, properties in Mousehole are often empty outside of the summer tourist season.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBroadhurst told me that Camborne, where she lives, is home to the largest food bank in Cornwall, with up to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cornwalllive.com\u002Fnews\u002Fcornwall-news\u002Fdemand-40-up-last-year-8349641\"\u003E15,000 local families \u003C\u002Fa\u003Ereceiving emergency food parcels every month. Poverty is rife in Cornwall, a situation which has led to regular demands for devolution, or even outright independence in Cornwall, which in turn fuels a desire for a national language.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBroadhurst believes that Cornish can be an economic as well as a cultural asset. \"We can develop jobs where learning Cornish is useful,\" she said. \"I'd love it if every pub in Cornwall had a menu in English and Cornish, and the bar staff can ask people what they want to drink in Cornish, and people can reply: \"\u003Cem\u003EPinta Korev, mar pleg\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\" [a pint of beer, please]. That would be great.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-24T10:01:07Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Why Cornwall is resurrecting its indigenous language","headlineShort":"The rebirth of the UK's lost language","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"50.2660","longitude":"-5.0527","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"As Britain redefines its modern identity, the Cornish are re-finding their place in the nation through their ancient language, Kernewek.","summaryShort":"There's been a surge in people wanting to learn it","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-23T21:11:22.270565Z","entity":"article","guid":"f8b83b03-efba-4f27-bc8f-eb0c4dba7f50","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-24T03:36:27.648071Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220964},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns","_id":"643c5df9122e041e2642b0a9","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Seaside resorts across the UK have struggled in recent decades, but Folkestone, Hastings and Margate – once frequented by royalty – are shrewdly reinventing themselves through art.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThere is no mistaking the Grand Burstin. This monstrous 550-bed hotel, shaped like an ocean liner and piebald with disrepair, looms over Folkestone harbour and the English Channel. Last November, some of the render from the facade above its main entrance fell off without warning \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003Eand two hotel guests had to be taken to hospital\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Burstin's sorry state reflects the fortunes of this seaside town. By the time the hotel was completed, back in the 1980s, the British beach holiday had already peaked, and cheap flights and package tourism were busily carting clients off to sunnier destinations overseas. When I first stayed in the hotel a couple of years ago, my room smelled of stale cigarettes and the top floors were filled with \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003Easylum seekers fresh from the Channel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis time there was scaffolding up for much-needed maintenance. My room was clean, with a waterfront view and represented very good value at &pound;34 for the night. It felt relaxed, more like a holiday destination.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESeaside resorts all over the UK have struggled in recent decades. The likes of Folkestone and its close confederates Hastings and Margate, once the watering holes of royalty &ndash; King Edward VII was a Folkestone regular &ndash; have all fallen on hard times. In a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ons.gov.uk\u002Fvisualisations\u002Fdvc1371\u002F#\u002FE07000112\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E2021 government study \u003C\u002Fa\u003Eof England's most income-deprived places, Hastings was the 14th worst, Thanet (including Margate) 30th, and Folkestone 82nd (out of 316). And that is despite the fact that all three are located in the south-east, the nation's wealthiest corner.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAll three have chosen a similar strategy to mitigate their misfortunes: the kiss of art. Two now have big statement galleries as engines of regeneration, and the third has the biggest collection of open-air art in the country, turning the resort into a kind of cultural treasure hunt. And this latter destination &ndash; Folkestone &ndash; has just been described as \"a funky example of the power of well-aimed regeneration\" and \"a younger, fresher and cheaper version of Brighton\" in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.thetimes.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Ffolkestone-kent-best-place-to-live-uk-2023-5hjvxzm8s\"\u003ESunday Times guide to Best Places to Live\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn Margate's case, all this revivalism started with the 2011 opening of the \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003ETurner Contemporary Gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an eye-catching building placed right on the quayside to honour English Romantic painter JMW Turner, who was a regular visitor here from the 1820s onwards. Turner remarked that the skies along this shore were the \"loveliest in all Europe\", and he also admired his seaside landlady, too, a certain Mrs Booth. The couple lived here as Mr and Mrs Booth until he died.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter Turner, the coastal town prospered well into the 20th Century, its strip of sand luring Londoners onto Margate-bound trains, but it wasn't to last. Artist Tracey Emin, who grew up in Margate and recently moved her studio here, recalls it becoming a \"no-go zone\" in the 1980s. Its theme park closed and shops were boarded up.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENow, though, Margate's new admirers come for visual arts more than jellied eels. Over the last 12 years, the Turner Contemporary's regular roster of exhibitions has attracted 3.8 million visitors and contributed more than &pound;70m to the community. Theme park \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003EDreamland\u003C\u002Fa\u003E has reopened with vintage rides, and the once-drab old town square has turned into a hipster-ish whimsy of bookshops and brasseries. It may still be a weekend wonder, but it is a start.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe same can be said of Hastings, Margate's bedfellow in the deprived towns index. Here the \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003EHastings Contemporary gallery\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is also a new build on the shoreline, but this time snuggled in among the charivari of Britain's biggest beach-launched fishing fleet, surrounded by hulls, sheds and distinctive wooden net stores, where nets were once hung up to dry.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe gallery opened back in 2012, since then its changing roster of exhibitions &ndash; some with local emphasis and some with big international names in contemporary art &ndash; have attracted 500,000 visitors. And \"for every &pound;1 spent in the gallery, we reckon there's a &pound;3 contribution to the local economy\", said gallery director Liz Gilmore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhen I visited, Gilmore was in the throes of one of its big changeovers of the year, putting up \u003Cem\u003ESoutine \u002F Kossoff\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, a topical show that combines two major figures of 20th-Century painting: Cha&iuml;m&nbsp;Soutine, a master of the School of Paris who grew up in Belarus; and Leon Kossoff a master of the School of London, whose parents came from Ukraine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"This is a very deprived town, with 1,000 homeless, and we have a responsibility to the community","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGilmore emphasised the importance of headline-grabbing exhibitions like these both in driving tourists to the town and inspiring residents to connect with culture. \"This is a very deprived town, with 1,000 homeless, and we have a responsibility to the community. I want every school child in Hastings to come here as part of our outreach programme.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELike Margate, the gallery effect seems to be working. George Street, the main artery of Hastings' old town, is a place of cigar merchants, vintage fashion and book-lined coffee shops. Gilmore says that the gallery has been a catalyst for creatives choosing to settle; and over dinner in the old town's Crown gastropub, itself lined with modern art, I spotted actress Gina McKee tucking into her linguine.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd so along the shore to my last stop, Folkestone, where the divide between the town centre and the newly fledged Creative Quarter is very plain to see.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe former is a patchwork of concrete, hastily rebuilt after all the damage done by German bombs during World War Two, during which the former ferry port became an obvious target. But slip downhill past the Town Hall into the Old High Street, and suddenly it's all pastels and cobbles, delicatessens and art galleries, where beautiful people sip lattes in the sun. And tucked away among the street food and whimsical barbershops with names like Oh Sailor, are works by the likes of Banksy, Yoko Ono and Gilbert &amp; George.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThese, and 70-odd other pieces distributed all over town, are loosely connected in a series of art trails. Every three years, this stock of outdoor art increases via the Folkestone Triennial, whose latest edition (in 2021) attracted more than 220,000 visitors.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe Triennial and the trails are the inspiration of Creative Folkestone, an organisation that was seed-funded back in 2002 by the millionaire Sir Roger de Haan, former owner of the \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003ESaga group\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (headquartered here), to breathe new life into Folkestone. Besides art, Creative Folkestone has restored 90 buildings and manages more than 50 shops and 115 studios and offices in the Creative Quarter, located between the town centre and the harbour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It was the cheapest and most unsafe place to live. Now it is where everyone wants to be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWind the clock back 20 years, and this used to be the red-light district, said Daniel Sangiuseppe, chairman of Folkestone's Hotel Association. \"It was the cheapest and most unsafe place to live. Now it is where everyone wants to be.\" Sangiuseppe is delighted by his town's recent progress.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe regeneration is not just inland. Out by the water, where the Grand Burstin broods over the quay, the Roger de Haan Charitable Trust has been at work on the old ferry jetty. A useless, windy, concrete limb that once sheltered ferries for France is now the foodie, arty \u003Ca href=\"about:blank\"\u003EHarbour Arm\u003C\u002Fa\u003E with some 36 food and drink outlets along its length. There's an Antony Gormley statue dramatically placed on a lower level on the waterline, and a lighthouse at the end emblazoned with Ian Hamilton Finlay's words: \"Weather is a third to place and time\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack when the poet's words were first stencilled here for the 2014 Triennial, to walk the length of the then-disused jetty would have been to walk through rusty dereliction and marine decay. Now, though, the reward for running the gauntlet of craft beer outlets and tacos stalls is that the lighthouse has been reborn as a Champagne bar.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHow things have changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-17T10:42:50Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"A new life for Britain's seaside towns","headlineShort":"Britain's 'cool' new seaside towns","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.0814","longitude":"1.1695","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Seaside resorts across the UK have struggled in recent decades, but Folkestone, Hastings and Margate – once frequented by royalty – are shrewdly reinventing themselves through art.","summaryShort":"Visitors now come for visual arts rather than jellied eels","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-16T20:43:19.853836Z","entity":"article","guid":"16889b7c-ad90-4237-9a5f-ebcb2d4ceacf","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-16T21:09:39.096612Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220964},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street","_id":"6432ee66122e041b09225cb1","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"In Blackstock Road you can travel and taste the world, from Africa to the Middle East and Asia, before finally landing in Europe. The choice is infinite, global and unpretentious.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's hardly scenic nor is it ritzy, but dig a little deeper behind the facades of this bustling shopping street and you'll find a microcosm of multicultural London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIntrigued by the plethora of ethnically diverse shops and restaurants, I embarked on a walk of discovery at the top of Blackstock Road where it cuts south to the leafier, more middle-class uplands of Highbury. But this section is mainly working-class London, encapsulated by a mosaic of nationalities who emerge from the transport hub of Finsbury Park to shop or work at the multifarious businesses.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EPart of this multi-ethnicity is due to a nearby mosque, a gold-domed magnet for Muslims, and part due to low shop rents in what has long been a gritty neighbourhood. Key, too, is the proximity of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.arsenal.com\u002Fthe-club\u002Femirates-stadium\"\u003EEmirates Stadium\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the home&nbsp;stadium&nbsp;of&nbsp;Arsenal&nbsp;Football Club &ndash; bringing armies of football fans in search of tasty, affordable food. But the area is changing, with other nationalities and religions moving in, including young, hip Brits who show how this global capital embraces immigrants. More than a third of Londoners are now foreign-born, representing 270 nationalities.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFamily businesses dominate the 1km stretch in north London, permitting only one small chain supermarket to squeeze in. My first stop was \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yell.com\u002Fbiz\u002Fal-bahia-london-10080404\u002F\"\u003EAl Bahia\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Algerian butcher and grocery shop run by three brothers: Hakim, Kemal and Fetah Amokrane. Hakim, full of confidence, gave me the background: \"We opened in 2006 as a halal butcher, but I've been in London for the last 30 years since the Algerian civil war.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn that time, he has acquired a marked London accent sprinkled with colloquialisms, and clearly loves interacting with customers. \"Not all are Muslim,\" he told me, though the Arabic greeting \u003Cem\u003Esalaam alaikum\u003C\u002Fem\u003E constantly reverberated. \"We want to serve everybody. After all these years, we feel part of the community. Here I found a culture that fulfilled me, a different way of life and language. My schooling in Algiers was in French, so I express myself better in French than in Arabic, but I wanted an alternative. I studied international business law at university, then followed family tradition by opening this shop.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"We want to serve everybody. After all these years, we feel part of the community. Here I found a culture that fulfilled me, a different way of life and language","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBulging bags of Moroccan couscous vied with North African olive oils and dates, baklava, Spanish dried figs, French cheeses and a refrigerated counter of spicy merguez sausages, but the trump card was at the door: pungent, spiced rotisserie chickens.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAcross the street I passed the well-established Ethiopian caf&eacute; and deli, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Fprofile.php?id=100063802291863\"\u003ESt Gabriel\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, to enter the enigmatically named \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yelp.com\u002Fbiz\u002Fm-k-supermarket-london\"\u003EMK\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. This father-and-son emporium is the oldest on the street, opened in 1976 when this was a red-light district. The owner, Mohammed Aslam, a slight, cheerful man, is assisted by his son, Khayam, a Londoner. Ugandan-born Aslam returned to his Pakistani origins as a child, later entering banking in Lahore. \"I like adding up!\" he laughed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHyper-energetic, he hardly stopped working as we chatted. \"When I opened, customers were mainly Caribbean and English, then came West Africans, Bangladeshis, Somalians and Algerians,\" he said. \"Now we have Ethiopians, Colombians and quite a lot of English. We must never depend on just one community in business.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs I browsed through \u003Cem\u003Ekarkad&eacute;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (hibiscus tea), okra, yams, mangoes, guava, medjoul dates, a dizzying array of spices, rices, Spanish beans and fiery Scotch bonnet chillies, I was lulled by a recording of melodious chanting of the Quran. \"It brings peace of mind,\" said Aslam.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpposite, I stopped off at \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fdilarauyghurrestaurant.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EDilara\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Uyghur restaurant and takeaway run by husband-and-wife team, Abdul and Rose Axmu. Escaping persecution in Xinjiang, an autonomous territory in north-west China, they came to the UK and opened this business seven years ago.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUyghur food is a tantalising melting-pot of Central Asian cultures; here you'll find hand-pulled flat noodles, meat samosas, dumplings, aubergine stew, pilaf rice, chilli chicken and spiced lamb kebabs &ndash; \"the best!\" asserted Rose. \"It's exhausting work to prepare all these dishes. But we like our customers who even come from far outside London.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAfter a succession of Algerian and English cafes came \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yell.com\u002Fbiz\u002Fmix-london-4651031\u002F\"\u003EMix\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a popular Chinese hardware shop that stocks just about every household item imaginable &ndash; many painted on the shutters. Mrs Sau Li opened this Aladdin's cave in 1979 after coming from Hong Kong, and two of her children now run the shop whenever she's away.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAlthough coy about giving their names or being photographed, their knowledge of the stock was as encyclopaedic as their mother's. Flower pots, wire, screws (sold individually), tools, paintbrushes, wood, brooms, crockery, mouse traps (\"a best-seller\") &ndash; it was all there.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn this jumble where every inch of space, including the ceiling, was crammed, I asked Li's daughter how she remembers where things are. \"Memory!\" she giggled. \"If I saw it there before, it must still be there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EOpposite, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yell.com\u002Fbiz\u002Fla-princesse-london-9333449\u002F\"\u003ELa Princesse\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Algerian cake-shop, displayed extravagantly creamy cakes, next to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yelp.com\u002Fbiz\u002Fspecial-eyes-opticians-london\"\u003ESpecial Eyes\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Palestinian optician. But I was lured by a tiny takeaway shop, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.independent.co.uk\u002Flife-style\u002Ffood-and-drink\u002Fbabans-naan-bread-restaurant-review-a9704246.html\"\u003EBaban's Naan\u003C\u002Fa\u003E where customers chatted in a huddle at the door. This nondescript place opened five years ago, an extension of Malik Tahidi's family business in Iranian Kurdistan. The warm naan bread expertly flipped on a hot plate by his assistant, Adel (an Iraqi Kurd), can be topped with sesame, za'atar, chilli, garlic or cheese, accompanied by falafel, kibbeh and kebab.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOnwards, I passed 20-year-old \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilcavaliere.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EIl Cavaliere\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an idiosyncratic Italian restaurant whose one-man-band owner, Antonio, gears his venue towards match days &ndash; making opening hours erratic. It's the opposite case at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.yildizrestaurant.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EYildiz\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a well-liked Turkish restaurant where up to 10 employees work in the cavernous interior daily. Here I talked to Uygar Guzel, the youthful son of owner Erdogan who, despite 20 years in London, still has limited English. \"Maybe 10% of our customers are Turkish, the rest reflect this mixed neighbourhood,\" he said, referring to the mutating demographic as side streets become increasingly gentrified.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis \u003Cem\u003Eocakbaşi\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (charcoal grill), famed for its lamb and chicken kebabs grilled over smoking coals, also offers plentiful hot and cold meze, vegetable dishes and fresh fish. \"We buy the meat at Smithfields market &ndash; mainly Welsh or Scottish lamb &ndash; and our \u003Cem\u003Epide\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (pita bread) is freshly made every morning,\" said Guzel. No one leaves hungry at Yildiz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe meaty aromas wafted across the street to \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.sultancarpets.co.uk\u002F\"\u003ESultan Carpets\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a business built up by three Eritrean brothers who fled their country during the 1990s war with Ethiopia. In contrast, I was surprised to discover an injection of feminine Thai culture at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.treatwell.co.uk\u002Fplace\u002Fanta-senses-salon-spa\u002F\"\u003EAnta Salon &amp; Spa\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a beauty salon owned by outgoing Minky, backed by three assistants.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"London is a very open-minded city, but I love north London and Blackstock Road in particular","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBetween these representatives of Africa and Asia, Europe showed up in style at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.margauxsalon.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EMargaux\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a chic hairdresser's owned by Margaux Cras, a dynamic young Frenchwoman from Lille. \"I came to London by chance eight years ago, opened this salon and never looked back,\" she told me. \"London is a very open-minded city, but I love north London and Blackstock Road in particular. I feel at home in the mix &ndash; everyone is respectful of other communities, I feel safe.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer seven stylists come from all over the world, Iran included, and her ambitious business is thriving. She is so happy with this location that she now lives above the salon. \"Thirty percent of my clientele are French &ndash; the others are British and European,\" she said. \"It's like a village where people enjoy their local shops.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBack to food, I entered \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fjojoskitchen.uk\u002F\"\u003EJojo's Kitchen\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, an Ethiopian restaurant opened in 2022 by Yohannes Asfha, tall, mild mannered and nicknamed Jojo. Full of Ethiopian decor, it seats more than 50 people, yet is managed entirely by Jojo (the cook) with his Eritrean partner and her brother serving.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I came to the UK as an asylum seeker in 2008, then learned English,\" he told me. After working in restaurants in Addis Ababa and then London, Jojo's next step was to open his own place. \"I chose this area for the diversity and type of nearby clientele,\" he said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHis gluten-free \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20190508-did-the-dutch-steal-this-african-food\"\u003Eteff\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (an Ethiopian grain) comes from Addis three times a week, as do herbs, pepper and coffee. \"Sometimes we hold a traditional coffee ceremony for customers, roasting the beans in front of them &ndash; they love the fragrance.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeyond Sari Cicek, a friendly Turkish corner shop that, amazingly, is open 365 days a year until 01:00, I continued through European territory at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002Flittlesardegna\u002F\"\u003ELittle Sardegna\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a Sardinian restaurant followed by a classic Italian, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Filgusciohighbury.co.uk\u002F\"\u003EIl Guscio\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, further uphill.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EJust before, however, came a shining example of English entrepreneurship: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bookbaruk.com\u002F\"\u003EBookbar\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a bookshop, cafe and wine bar that has gone from strength to strength since its ebullient owner, Chrissy Ryan, sold books through the door during lockdown. Young women in particular flock here for a drink, a read or to attend one of Ryan's literary events.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"I love working in the area as there's so much support between businesses – we all know each other","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"It's becoming a destination round here,\" she told me. \"Young professionals, families and a mix of generations and nationalities bring lots of footfall. And I love working in the area as there's so much support between businesses &ndash; we all know each other.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn just one shop Chrissy has created a flourishing community &ndash; and a bridge between others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoon I reached Highbury. The pavements were emptier, the atmosphere had changed and the name of the road too, leaving me nostalgic for the buzz, characters, aromas and tongues of Blackstock Road.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street-18"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-10T16:54:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The London street that represents the world","headlineShort":"The UK street that represents the world","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5646","longitude":"-0.1047","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"In Blackstock Road you can travel and taste the world, from Africa to the Middle East and Asia, before finally landing in Europe. The choice is infinite, global and unpretentious.","summaryShort":"This is integration – and London – at its best","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-09T16:56:52.968748Z","entity":"article","guid":"158a670b-0369-4ea6-a3ce-d919fb25d918","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-09T20:00:44.438603Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220964},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music","_id":"6458075c122e041ca3317a21","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fzoey-goto"],"bodyIntro":"Camden's Cecil Sharp House has been questioning the very notion of what traditional British music means in the multicultural 21st Century.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Hip-hop is the folk dance of today,\" said&nbsp;Natasha&nbsp;Khamjani, breathing heavily. They're both social dances created for crowd participation, both also existing on the fringes of the mainstream, she added. Khamjani was taking a quick break during a rehearsal of a high-energy performance blending Bollywood moves and English country dancing with the unmistakable bounce of hip-hop moves.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn an unexpected twist, Khamjani and her troupe were also dancing under a rainbow of swirling maypole ribbons &ndash; a sight more commonly associated with English village fetes rather than a basement in inner-city London. Nearby, the hum of Camden's traffic competed with the soundtrack of fiddle, banjo and beatboxing pumping from the speakers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAt first glance, this veritable mash-up of genres and cultures seemed an unlikely marriage. But for Khamjani, artistic director of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ffolkdanceremixed.com\u002F\"\u003EFolk Dance Remixed\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, a collective putting a global spin on old-time English dances, a natural synergy exists. These are the dances of the people, bubbling up from the streets, pubs, village greens, dance halls and international communities that birthed them, Khamjani explained. An easy fit between age-old English country dances and house music exists, she pointed out. \"It sounds weird but the steps are basically the same,\" she laughed, overlooked by imposing stag antlers mounted to the wall at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002Fcecil-sharp-house\"\u003ECecil Sharp House\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ERemixing maypole dancing is just one of the myriad ways that English folk culture is currently having a reboot, thanks to a new wave of switched-on folkies diversifying the scene. At the heart of this progressive movement is the Cecil Sharp House, a music venue and folk arts centre that's home to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002F\"\u003EEnglish Folk Dance and Song Society\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (EFDSS) and where Folk Dance Remixed perform regularly.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fkqv8z"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ENamed after Cecil Sharp, a folk music enthusiast who roamed the countryside of England and the US South collecting folk music and dances in the early 20th Century, this temple to vernacular culture threw open its Arts and Crafts-style doors in 1930. Nowadays, it competes with the colourful street theatre of neighbouring Camden Market, making it easy to pass this non-descript building without realising the hotbed of cultural boundary-pushing that lurks behind its terracotta brick facade.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOver the last few years, the EFDSS has ramped up its outreach efforts to engage new audiences, mixing diverse cultural traditions to create new interpretations of \"Englishness\". Projects have included teaming up with musician \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fkuljit.bhamra\u002F?hl=en\"\u003EKuljit Bhamra\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, pioneer of the British Bhangra sound, an upbeat musical style that mixes traditional Punjabi beats with Western pop, to uncover similarities between \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002F63-latest-output\u002F11837-folk-and-bhangra\"\u003E18th-Century traditional Kentish jigs and Bhangra music\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. There have been \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002Flearning\u002F55-resources\u002Flearning-resources\u002F9888-santiana\"\u003Esea shanty lessons with rap verses\u003C\u002Fa\u003E taught to schoolchildren; and feminist-themed pop-up events, including a recording of the podcast \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002F63-latest-output\u002F10336-folk-folk-feminism\"\u003EThank Folk for Feminism\u003C\u002Fa\u003E at the house.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It's really powerful to see these parallels in songs from hundreds of years ago","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECertain projects have undeniably chimed easier than others. Take for example Queer Folk's \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002Fwhats-on\u002F27-dances\u002F12515-efdss-and-queer-folk-presents-queer-ceilidh-dance-party-may-2023\"\u003EQueer Ceilidh parties\u003C\u002Fa\u003E hosted at Cecil Sharp House, where evenings of LGBTQ ceilidh dancing and drag acts have proved a sell-out success. Musicians Sophie Crawford and George Sansome of Queer Folk also teamed up with the EFDSS to delve into the institution's song archives. They found a wealth of examples of \"queer sex, romance and gender non-conformity, as well as signs of the mistreatment and persecution of trans and gender-non-conforming people\", Sansome noted. \"It's really powerful to see these parallels in songs from hundreds of years ago.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fkqv82"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EJoining me in the main hall at the Cecil Sharp House beneath a whimsical mural of folkloric creatures and abstract dancing figures, Katy Spicer, the chief executive and artistic director at EFDSS, pointed out that it is, however, a work in progress making the English folk scene truly inclusive. \"In terms of diversity, ethnicity has been the hardest challenge\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESomewhat ironically, it's possible to trace the roots of this reluctance back to the late 19th- and early 20th-Century folk music collectors, including Cecil Sharp himself. Their cannon of work focussed on the white, rural working-class dances and ballads, marking the genre out as a white heritage space and overlooking the cross-cultural exchanges that have always existed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There was perhaps a tunnel vision back then and histories not recorded, which no one questioned until recently. We're working to set the record straight,\" Spicer said, as a group of teenagers, part of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002Flearning\u002Fyoung-people\u002Fnational-youth-folk-ensemble\"\u003ENational Youth Folk Ensemble\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, shuffled onstage to tune violins ready for the evening's show. \"Particularly when you have English in your title, you have to address what it means to be English and whose England is it?\" she added, as the audience started to file into the hall, spanning in age from toddlers to grandparents.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fkqv8v"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EExploring some of these overlooked histories and racial crosscurrents is Cohen Braithwaite-Kilcoyne, a singer, musician and rising star of the folk scene, who in 2021 collaborated with the EFDSS on the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.efdss.org\u002Flearning\u002F55-resources\u002Flearning-resources\u002F10460-black-singers-and-folk-ballads\"\u003EBlack Singers and Folk Ballads project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The work explored links between English folk and music-making among enslaved people in former British colonies in the US Southern states and the Caribbean.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"These songs started life in Britain and migrated with the people to the Americas. It seemed that there was a certain amount of cultural exchange between the white colonisers and Black enslaved people","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"I'd always been aware that there are songs and ballads that crop up across English folk music traditions and the music of Black America and the Caribbean, but perhaps hadn't quite realised the extent of the shared repertoire,\" he told me. \"These songs started life in Britain and migrated with the people to the Americas. It seemed that there was a certain amount of cultural exchange between the white colonisers and Black enslaved people,\" he said of his research, which unearthed examples of similar storytelling and melodies across the three traditions. \"But the very nature of folk song means that as it's passed along orally, you get an evolution.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOften still viewed as a relic from a dusty, bygone era, folk has also long struggled to attract a younger, hipper crowd. But things look set to change, thanks in part to folk pioneer and artist Alex Merry, an EFDSS alumnus. Having learnt to Morris dance (a choreographed group dance dating to the European courts of the 15th Century) on the fabled floorboards at the Cecil Sharp House 15 years ago, Merry has since formed the all-female \"prog-morris\" dance group \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bossmorris.com\u002F\"\u003EBoss Morris\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fkqv7y"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBringing Morris dancing high-stepping into the mainstream, Boss Morris performed onstage with the indie rock group Wet Leg at the BRIT Awards in February 2023. Sparking more than half a million \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.youtube.com\u002Fwatch?v=6120T_EDBRc\"\u003EYouTube views\u003C\u002Fa\u003E to date, the performance was a riot of fluttering hankies, folk-meets-clubwear costumes and mythical beast mascots, causing a flurry of online comments from curious viewers. \u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn search of this new wave of folksters, I headed to the market town of Stroud to catch Boss Morris preparing to rehearse in a draughty village hall. Wearing jangling bells at their legs and crowns of golden corn, Merry and her dance side were keen to point out that although it's still perceived as a male-dominated pastime, women have always Morris danced, even if only on the fringes of the limelight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"People are looking for a sense of place and identity. And it's about redefining what being British can be","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We're not doing anything brand new,\" Merry said, sitting on the gnarly wooden floorboards with a steaming cup of tea. \"And nowadays, there's actually more women taking up Morris dancing than men, so the pendulum has swung,\" she added, wearing a kit emblazoned with a geometric sun to represent the upcoming summer solstice.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fkqv7p"],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe recent wave of enthusiasm for trad-folk arts has been driven by a need to get back to basics in the digital era, plus a desire to reconnect with the land following the pandemic, said fellow dancer Lily Cheetham, her face decorated with curling black snakes and a flash of bright lipstick. \"People are looking for a sense of place and identity. And it's about redefining what being British can be.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn a unison of tidy lines and rhythmic leaps, Boss Morris started to practice the routines that they'll be passing onto others at festival workshops and street parties across England this summer. Turning to leave, it occurred to me that if hip-hop is the folk dance of today, I'd come full circle and witnessed England's original street dance: Morris dancing. Reassuringly, it wasn't stuck in the past but was keeping up with the times, as all good art forms must do to survive.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music-16"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Fadventure-experience"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-08T10:16:32Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The London venue reimagining British music","headlineShort":"England's new wave of 'folksters'","image":["p0fkqv95"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5390","longitude":"-0.1426","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fkqv7y"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230423-why-cornwall-is-resurrecting-its-indigenous-language","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230416-a-new-life-for-britains-seaside-towns","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230409-londons-blackstock-road-the-world-in-a-street"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Camden's Cecil Sharp House has been questioning the very notion of what traditional British music means in the multicultural 21st Century.","summaryShort":"They're questioning the very notion of what traditional British music is","tag":["tag\u002Fdance"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-07T20:17:15.211861Z","entity":"article","guid":"b87bfa1e-1c86-4f46-a42f-c1e1a6aabfc0","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-08T19:47:28.951718Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230507-the-london-venue-reimagining-british-music","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Flondon","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fengland","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fgreat-britain","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Feurope"],"destinationStat":"europe_great-britain_england_london_europe_great-britain_england_europe_great-britain_europe","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220963},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans","_id":"643989ae122e041b1301ca1f","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Deeply rooted in Costa Rican and Nicaraguan culture, this staple of rice and beans with a side of eggs gets a spicy kick from Salsa Lizano (a sauce similar to Worcestershire).","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EGallo pinto\u003C\u002Fem\u003E is a satisfying, savoury \u003Cem\u003Ecampesino\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (rural farmer) comfort dish of rice and beans, with a spicy kick from Salsa Lizano (a sauce similar to Worcestershire) and a side of eggs. The name, translated to \"spotted rooster\", refers to the speckled look of the rice and beans after they've mixed together and is a staple of Central American cuisine, specifically in Costa Rica and Nicaragua.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor M&oacute;nica Quesada, a photojournalist from Costa Rica's central valley, it was an after-school dinner. \"I remember always enjoying gallo pinto with a big tortilla for dinner &ndash; and a piece of fresh, squeaky cheese called Turrialba cheese, which is weird,\" Quesada said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Gallo pinto recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's \"weird\" because gallo pinto is typically considered a breakfast food, usually served with \u003Cem\u003Enatilla\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (a kind of sour cream in Costa Rica). But for Quesada, it was the ultimate comfort food no matter the time of day.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EQuesada spent most of her formative years living in Heredia, one of the three cities surrounding the capital of San Jos&eacute; in Costa Rica's urban central valley. Now she and her husband, New York-born Thomas Enderlin, are based in Sabanilla, a residential neighbourhood in north-eastern San Jos&eacute;. It's also the same place where her father grew up. Among working on many different creative projects, together, the couple co-authored Costa Riqu&iacute;sima: Costa Rican Traditional Dishes For You or Someone You Love which came out in November, 2022 from \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.zonatropical.net\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EZona Tropical Press\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe project was serendipitous. As Enderlin tells it, Quesada was speaking with the publisher years ago about another project. The publisher followed up, asking if she knew anyone who could do a cookbook. The publisher was specifically interested in a mixed-nationality couple &ndash; and the rest is history.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECosta Riqu&iacute;sima was several years in the making, starting from early conversations back in 2015. A familial mishap and the pandemic extended its timeline, but Quesada said they had to spend a significant amount of time researching the recipes and distilling the variations they found into one recipe for their cookbook. \"Everybody has a recipe,\" she said, \"but then we have to make one that several people approve [of].\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETo test recipes, Quesada and Enderlin turned to their Costa Rican family. \"We had a lot of events with Monica's family where we brought in all the \u003Cem\u003ETicos\u003C\u002Fem\u003E [Costa Ricans],\" said Enderlin. \"Luckily, everyone liked [what we made] and said it was very authentic, very traditional.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEnderlin describes Costa Rican food as very natural, light on spice, fresh and satisfying. \"It's a very practical cuisine,\" he said, adding, \"because most of the food comes from when Costa Rica was less developed, more campesino, and people had to eat to sustain their physical activities.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs for gallo pinto, Enderlin and Quesada say that although it's a simple dish, there are a number of variations on the preparation and ingredients that will differ from family to family. \"One of the most profound differences is that in certain parts of the country they use red beans,\" said Enderlin. \"And in other parts of the country, they use black beans.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESome other variations include using coriander and chopped up pieces of red or green bell pepper. \"[The changes] are very subtle,\" said Enderlin. \"But at the same time, it's such a basic dish that it does affect the flavour.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EQuesada and Enderlin use Salsa Lizano, a kind of spicy yet sweet Costa Rican Worcestershire sauce developed in 1920. \"You can cook everything with Salsa Lizano,\" said Quesada. She admitted that because it's salty, it isn't the healthiest condiment and even said that newer generations have tried to stay away from it, particularly in her own family. But by and large, Salsa Lizano remains a Tico favourite. And at the end of the day, they included it in their recipe for gallo pinto.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It definitely has to be included,\" said Quesada. \"It adds a lot more flavour, it makes [the gallo pinto] saltier, a little bit spicy, and there's a little bit of a kick in there.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Gallo pinto recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EGallo pinto recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy M&oacute;nica Quesada and Thomas Enderlin\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes: 4-6\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E2 cups dry black beans, soaked overnight and drained\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 medium-sized white onion, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 scallions, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 medium red bell pepper, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp Salsa Lizano or Worcestershire sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E5 cups water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 cups white rice, washed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 cups cilantro, finely chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esalt and fresh ground pepper, to taste\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Eeggs, for serving (prepared any way you like)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the beans, onion, scallion, red bell pepper, Salsa Lizano and 5 cups of water to a large pot and bring to a boil. Once boiling reduce heat and let simmer for roughly 1 hour, stirring periodically\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd washed rice and again bring to a boil on medium heat until the liquid is burned off and the dish has a nice, moist consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Be careful not to burn by stirring periodically.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd cilantro just prior to serving. Stir to mix well. Serve with eggs prepared to your preference.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans-4"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-15T17:12:19Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Gallo pinto: Costa Rica rice and beans","headlineShort":"Gallo pinto: Costa Rica rice and beans","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Deeply rooted in Costa Rican and Nicaraguan culture, this staple of rice and beans with a side of eggs gets a spicy kick from Salsa Lizano (a sauce similar to Worcestershire).","summaryShort":"It's a comfort dish of mixed rice and beans with a spicy kick","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-14T17:13:01.580572Z","entity":"article","guid":"69c97a73-bc9c-40b6-a478-0177563fa875","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-23T15:16:31.495513Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220965},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup","_id":"6410d1b2122e041b1925e0f0","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Colombian ajiaco – featured in SOUP, a book of immigrant recipes in Ireland – is comforting, with chicken, potatoes, corn and fresh herbs, topped with cream, capers and avocado.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESoup has a dialogue of its own. It's never just a bowl of soup, and we all have our favourite for a reason: a memory, an emotion, a hard time, a joyful time. The comforting things we ladle into bowls are among the most personal foods we make and consume.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is no absolute definition of what makes a soup: ingredients, culture, texture and flavour vary to produce a dish that can be creamy and thick, bright and zingy, or hot and brothy. Whatever it looks like or tastes like, soup is the language of home.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBlanca Valencia, Mei Chin and Dee Laffan are three women from wildly different backgrounds, countries and cultures connecting over a shared love of food in Ireland. Hailing from Spain, the US and Ireland respectively, together they are the voices behind the award-winning \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spicebags.ie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESpice Bags Podcast\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. The podcast focuses on food in Ireland through the perspective of the international communities who live and work there. Valencia, Chin and Laffan describe the podcast as coming in three flavours: deep-dive explorations of a national cuisine; interviews; and staple chats where the hosts \"banter\" over a selected topic from their own cultural perspective.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was during one such \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spicebags.ie\u002Fepisodes\u002Fepisode\u002F5005deca\u002Fs2-ep3-soup-of-the-evening-beautiful-soup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Estaple chat on the topic of soup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that all three hosts found common ground they could unite upon. The idea arose to pitch a book about soup centred around the international diaspora in Ireland. They brought the idea to Kristin Jensen, founder of Nine Bean Rows publishing house and creator of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblastabooks.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBlasta Books series of cookbooks\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is shaking up the cookbook publishing scene in Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn January 2023, that nugget of a cookbook idea was published. \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fblastabooks.com\u002Fproducts\u002Fblasta-books-5-soup\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESOUP\u003C\u002Fa\u003E showcases 25 recipes gathered from friends, acquaintances and podcast guests. From Africa to Turkey, China to Scotland &ndash; from Mexican sopa de tortilla to a Danish elderberry gazpacho-like soup &ndash; each recipe represents a person, a culture, a history.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"No-one has ever described a soup to me without a story,\" said Laffan. \"These are personal renditions with food memories and nostalgia attached. Soup does that; it evokes emotions and stirs us up in the best way.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIreland is known as the country of a hundred thousand welcomes, but as immigrants, Chin and Valencia desired a platform for their voices to be heard. \"It was hard,\" said Chin, \"No-one was listening to us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EProducing the podcast connected them to the wider international community in Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"We found all the people we worked with that had interesting takes on soup, what it means to them and their story,\" said Valencia. \"These soups define who they are, and I don't think any dish defines people as much as soup does. They're ambassadors for their country, and they want to represent it with their food.\"&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EChin added that no other food evokes home the way soup does. \"We wanted to do a book about immigrant Ireland; how to comfort yourself when away from home and trying to create home in a different place. Soup is the best way to do that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Valencia, Chin and Laffan, choosing a favourite recipe from the collection was easy: they selected a recipe that simultaneously stirred up favourite memories, a love of potatoes and an invocation of comfort.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAjiaco is a Colombian soup made with chicken, corn and three types of potato. It's a typical dish of Bogot&aacute; but largely unknown outside of Colombia. Valencia came to know and love it while living there. Laffan and Valencia had the privilege of dining on freshly made ajiaco at the official residence of the Colombian ambassador to Ireland, HE Mrs Patricia Cort&eacute;s Ortiz.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Ajiaco recipe\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EValencia had mentioned to a friend working at the Colombian Embassy how she'd love to do something around ajiaco, \"thinking she would say this food was made by the chef,\" Valencia recalled. \"Instead, she said this is the Ambassador's dish and she cooks this all the time.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor Laffan, being cooked for and served in the ambassador's home added layers of understanding to the dish that the recipe's words alone couldn't express.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"To see how carefully she made the soup and explained the ingredients, how she loves to shop for hard-to-find ingredients &ndash; something so many immigrants go through to find their taste of home,\" she said. \"We sat down to eat with her husband, and on the table was beautiful Colombian handwoven placemats and traditional blue and white crockery. It reminded me so much of soups I make, or I'd had. Ajiaco has three different potatoes in it &ndash; in a way, it couldn't be more Irish. This wonderful soup unites us.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAs Her Excellency made her soup, Valencia experienced a moment watching this woman of high office cooking, proud to share her soup with others. The recipe was the ambassador's mothers, passed down to her, redolent with traditional flavours that reminded her of cooking at home in Colombia. She was able to source Colombian potatoes, and a specialist grower called \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fsinging_frog_gardens\u002F?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;hl=en\"\u003ESinging Frog Gardens\u003C\u002Fa\u003E based near Bantry in West Cork was growing \u003Cem\u003Eguascas\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (an herb popular in Colombia) sending bunches up to Dublin for her.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"I thought, what a wonderful woman to see how she's not afraid to do this, she's owning her skill and her heritage,\" said Valencia. \"And then the conversations &ndash; the same conversations we all have over soup; talking about family memories, how it was cooked for them when they were growing up. Through the experience of writing SOUP, I recognise women are behind our best food memories, and we don't give them enough credit for that.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESoup reaches across cultures and class. It's the food of home; the language of home, and something we can all gather around no matter where we come from or who we are.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Ajiaco recipe\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EAjiaco recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy HE Mrs Patricia Cort&eacute;s Ortiz, Colombian Ambassador to Ireland\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E(serves 4-6)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAjiaco uses three Columbian potato varieties (Papa Criolla, Pastusa and Sabanero) and guascas, a Colombian herb. Suitable potato substitutes are a mix of starchy, waxy and salad potatoes for textural balance. Thyme and coriander can be substituted for guascas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFor soup\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E2 litres water\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g chicken, on the bone\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 spring onions, whole\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 garlic cloves, crushed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 sprig fresh thyme\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4-6 sprigs fresh coriander\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 medium waxy, red-skinned potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 medium floury, yellow-skinned potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E500g new potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E4 chicken fillets\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 corn on the cob, cut in 3 pieces each\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Efine sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Efreshly ground black pepper\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETo serve\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E150ml double cream or \u003Cem\u003Enata \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(a type of heavy\u002Fdouble cream used in South America)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E100g capers\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 avocados, peeled and quartered\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Esteamed or boiled white rice\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPut the water in a stockpot with the chicken on the bone, spring onions, garlic, thyme and half the coriander. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the potatoes in batches, starting with the red-skinned waxy ones. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the yellow-skinned floury ones and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the new potatoes and cook for another 20 minutes until the potatoes start to fall apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the spring onions from the pot. Pick the leaves from the rest of the coriander and add them to the pot along with the chicken fillets and corn. Simmer for 10-15 minutes, until the chicken fillets are cooked through.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ETake the pot off the heat, remove the chicken on the bone and the fillets. Let them cool slightly, then shred with a fork.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ECheck the consistency of the soup &ndash; the floury potato slices need to be broken up, not left whole. If needed, use a potato masher to break them down a little, but not too much. Check the seasoning and adjust the salt if necessary, remembering the soup will be garnished with salty capers.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EStir before serving, ladle into bowls making sure every bowl has corn. Add shredded chicken, a couple tablespoons of double cream or nata and some capers to the middle of each bowl. Serve with avocado quarters, more capers, cream and steamed or boiled white rice on the side.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup-6"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":true,"displayDate":"2023-03-15T10:53:58Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Ajiaco: Chicken, corn and potato soup","headlineShort":"Ajiaco: Chicken, corn and potato soup","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Colombian ajiaco – featured in SOUP, a book of immigrant recipes in Ireland – is comforting, with chicken, potatoes, corn and fresh herbs, topped with cream, capers and avocado.","summaryShort":"Chicken, potatoes, corn and herbs make up this Colombian soup","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-14T19:57:20.96355Z","entity":"article","guid":"0515bdf9-01ea-4553-b08c-f3aef1b6752a","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup","modifiedDateTime":"2023-03-20T03:39:15.585607Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220965},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco","_id":"6399da65122e04761e4d0162","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Despite Taco Bell's international fame, Mitla Cafe has a place in the history of Mexican American cuisine as the first eatery to serve hard-shell tacos in the United States.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"While there are 7,400 Taco Bell locations, there is only one Mitla Cafe","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the world of food snobbery &ndash; in this case, Mexican food snobbery &ndash; hard-shell tacos are considered something of a taco crime. Crispy, ground beef-filled tacos topped with cheese, tomatoes and lettuce are seen as so pass&eacute; that a single mention of eating one could cause a collective eyeroll from the hipster fooderati everywhere from Brooklyn to Portland, Echo Park to Austin. But not in San Bernardino, California.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThat's where, in 1937, Salvador and Lucia Rodriguez, immigrants from Jalisco, Mexico, started making hard-shell tacos and selling them to the local Mexican American community at their newly opened&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.mitlacafesb.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMitla Cafe\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, located on the erstwhile Route 66 in San Bernardino, California. Lucia, who was in charge of the kitchen, had decided to make hard-shell tacos as this was something her family in Mexico would eat mostly at Lent, stuffed with mashed potatoes. For this new venture, though, she used whatever ingredients were available: in this case, ground beef, cheddar cheese, tomatoes and iceberg lettuce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"In 1937, Salvador and Lucia Rodriguez started selling hard-shell tacos at Mitla Cafe","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe tacos at Mitla Cafe were a hit. Even civil rights activist Cesar Chavez was a regular when he was in town.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen in early 1948, an ambitious 25-year-old American man (whose family had moved to the area from Minnesota) opened a hamburger and hotdog stand across the road from Mitla Cafe. The eatery did modest business, but a new restaurant called McDonald's had opened up two miles away and seemed to be quickly cornering the burger market in the area. The young burger-stand entrepreneur often had nothing to do but stare across the street at Mitla Cafe. Specifically, he'd gawk at the perpetual line of regulars anxiously awaiting to savour the restaurant's tacos&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003Edorados\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, made-to-order hard-shell tacos.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd that's when the young man had a lightbulb moment: maybe he could capture the imagination of Americans with tacos the way McDonalds had with burgers. Soon enough he was ingratiating himself with the owners of Mitla Cafe. And not long after, he was in their kitchen learning how the ground beef was stuffed into a corn tortilla, deep fried and then loaded with cheese, tomatoes and lettuce.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"At Mitla Cafe, ground beef is stuffed into corn tortillas, which are deep fried","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHe made a fry basket out of chicken wire and started trying to figure out how to mass-produce hard taco shells. And in November 1951, he added tacos to the menu of his hamburger spot. Soon, his (predominantly white) clientele began trying these \"take-ohs\", as non-Mexicans apparently first pronounced them, which, at 19 cents each, were a hit. A few years later, he opened a couple of new quick-service restaurants that offered only tacos. The taco stands went through different names &ndash; Taco Tia, El Taco &ndash; before he settled on an eponymous name for his taco eateries. The man's name was Glen Bell and Taco Bell had been born.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, there are more than 7,400 Taco Bell locations across 30 countries. And there is one Mitla Cafe, still quietly producing delicious hard-shell tacos the way it has for decades. The family of Salvador and Lucia Rodriguez, now in their third generation, are running the place as a community of regular patrons crunch, munch and sip their way through a largely unchanged menu of crispy tacos, gooey cheese enchiladas and potent margaritas.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMitla Cafe has a place in the history of Mexican American cuisine as the first eatery to serve hard-shell tacos in the United States. And also for being the unlikely inspiration that launched a billion hard-shell tacos into corporate south-of-the-border flavoured fast food hegemony. For more than eight decades, Mitla Cafe has been anchored along Mt Vernon Boulevard, a swath of Route 66, which is like a lifetime for a restaurant. How and why Mitla has managed such longevity is miraculous.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mitla Cafe serves a menu of crispy tacos, gooey cheese enchiladas and potent margaritas","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhy it has largely been so unheralded outside of San Bernardino was a mystery to me. I decided to go to the source to find out its secret.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI swung open the door to Mitla Cafe around noon on a Tuesday. What felt like a ghost town outside was an improbable party inside. The high-ceilinged interior was near capacity with lunching locals. The tacos here are fried to order; when mine arrived, they were warm and crispy.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"It probably ought to be displayed at the Smithsonian","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe oddity at Mitla Cafe are the tacos themselves: hard-shell tacos have been so uncool for so long that most lovers of Mexican food consider them to be \"non-authentic\". And that's mostly because of Taco Bell, which made hard-shell tacos ubiquitous in the (mostly white) American suburbs. Dismiss the hard-shell taco at your own peril, though, as you'll be erasing an important era of Mexican American history. As the&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.latimes.com\u002Ffood\u002Fstory\u002F2019-09-13\u002Ffood-story-2019-09-14-mitla-cafe-tacos-patricia-escarcega\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ELos Angeles Times said\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the taco at Mitla \"feels like a tidy, crisp homage to Mid-century America. It probably ought to be displayed at the Smithsonian.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EYou may also be interested in:\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210131-does-authentic-mexican-food-exist\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EDoes 'authentic' Mexican food exist\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20190529-where-theres-no-queso-in-quesadilla\"\u003EWhere there's no queso in quesadilla\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&bull;&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fstory\u002F20210111-how-mexico-is-reclaiming-spirulina\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHow Mexico is reclaiming spirulina\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA few minutes after my tacos arrived, Michael Monta&ntilde;o, grandson of Salvador and Lucia Rodriguez, came to sit at my table. He's been working here on and off since he was in high school. \"If you're a family member and you come into Mitla to eat, you're going to end up bussing tables or something,\" he said. \"So I grew up working here off and on. It's only been the last few years that I've played a more active role in the restaurant.\" He also makes his grandmother's secret salsa. \"Only three of us know the recipe,\" he said. And, then added with a chuckle, \"We don't travel together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The tacos at Mitla Cafe are made to order","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBut, I wondered to Monta&ntilde;o, what are the secret ingredients to Mitla Cafe's longevity? \"To see how special Mitla Cafe is, you really have to just be here,\" he said. \"Look around, it feels like you're in a busy part of your house, the living room or the kitchen. If you come here enough, you'll start to see the regulars. We have people coming here for decades. These two gentlemen over here are brothers; their mom is one of our cooks. So, they've grown up here. We have a connection to the community, where there are two or three generations coming in together.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMonta&ntilde;o opened a manila folder and pulled out a menu. It was the earliest Mitla Cafe menu they still have &ndash; from the late 1940s, he speculated. Aside from the prices and a few nods to gringo eating habits, such as pancakes and burgers, not much has changed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"It's important to recognise that Bell was a failed fast food entrepreneur before he had the realisation that the restaurant across the street from his flagging business was booming, the Mitla Cafe\", said&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.stjohns.edu\u002Facademics\u002Ffaculty\u002Fsteven-alvarez\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ESteven Alvarez\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;who teaches a course at St John's University in New York called Taco Literacy, which looks at Mexican immigration in New York City via Mexican fare. \"What happened here is a white guy seeing opportunities to market Mexican food to a 'mainstream' audience for the love of profit, and not the love of Mexican people.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Mitla Cafe made the US' first hard-shell tacos","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EMitla would have been just fine with or without the Taco Bell connection. It deserves to be lauded despite whatever Glen Bell may have \"borrowed\" (and then grossly profited) from them. That said, the connection was almost lost to history. At least until about a decade ago when writer&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gustavoarellano.org\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGustavo Arellano\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;was reading a biography of Bell called Taco Titan, in which Bell recalls the story of his hamburger stand across from a popular taco-slinging Mexican restaurant in San Bernardino. Bell gave the intersection but not the name of the restaurant. \"So just on a hunch, I drove out to San Bernardino,\" said Arellano.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Once I got there, I saw the old hamburger place, which is now &ndash; ironically &ndash; a taco place,\" he said. \"And then I was blown away that there was a Mexican restaurant across the street. I thought: no way is it that same restaurant that Glen Bell mentioned in his book. It can't still be here. Restaurants don't last that long.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EArellano approached an older woman who worked there, Irene Monta&ntilde;o, a daughter-in-law of Salvador and Lucia Rodriguez, the original family of owners, and asked: is this the restaurant where Glen Bell got his original idea for Taco Bell? \"Oh yeah,\" she told Arellano. \"I remember him, this white guy used to come in late at night, ask lots of questions about how we made tacos, and then leave.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"Locals fill Mitla Cafe at lunchtime","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EA couple of years later, the tale ended up in Arellano's fascinating book&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.amazon.com\u002FTaco-USA-Mexican-Conquered-America\u002Fdp\u002F1439148627\u002Fref=sr_1_1?crid=29RQJO73H5VC2&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=taco+usa+how+mexican+food+conquered+america&amp;qid=1622730231&amp;sprefix=taco+usa%2Caps%2C298&amp;sr=8-1\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America\u003C\u002Fa\u003E. As Micheal Monta&ntilde;o told me, \"Before Gustavo came in, we hadn't really made the connection. We hadn't equated Taco Bell with Glen Bell. What makes it feel a lot better is that my grandmother is finally getting some credit for her place in the history of Mexican American cuisine. She came here with small children and made a small business out of almost nothing.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Mitla Cafe has survived for so long simply because it's really good,\" Arellano told me. \"It's a time capsule of Mexican food from the first half of the 20th Century. Things are changing. Right across the street from Mitla is a place that's selling&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003Ebirria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E&nbsp;tacos.\" These slow-stewed goat or beef tacos are currently all rage in the foodie world. \"Mitla attracts multi-generational families. You have to take a culinary pilgrimage there,\" he continued. \"You wouldn't have the Mexican food that you love if you didn't have Mitla.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe's right. Looking back, Bell's appropriation of Mexican food, in general, and of Mitla Cafe's hard-shell tacos, in particular, seems questionable, if not egregious. But the Mexican dining landscape in the United States has blossomed thanks to old-school Mexican restaurants like Mitla Cafe and hard-working Mexican immigrants who brought their recipes and kitchen know-how with them to the US.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The hard-shell taco is an important part of Mexican American history","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAlso, we're now looking beyond fast food, with Americans yearning for regional Mexican food along with creative, elevated takes on the cuisine that are prepared by Mexican and Mexican American chefs &mdash; &nbsp;restaurants such as&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.tacomaria.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ETaco Maria\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;in Southern California and two-Michelin-starred&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcaliforniossf.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECalifornios\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;in San Francisco, as well as the lauded and super inventive&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.cosmenyc.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECosme\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;in New York City and&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.calarestaurant.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECala\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;in San Francisco. And of course, there would be none of the above without places like Mitla.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are so many Mitla Cafes around &ndash; old-school Mexican restaurants sprinkled around the country &ndash; and they each have their own history,\" said Arellano. \"We can't dismiss these places. They are a part of our history.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHe summed everything up succinctly: \"People might dismiss the menu at Mitla but it's ludicrous and presumptuous to do that because this is the Mexican food of a whole generation of people.\" And then he added, \"Taco Bell needs Mitla Cafe more than Mitla Cafe needs Taco Bell. Mitla is the heritage which Taco Bell is standing on.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E---\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story,&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fpages.emails.bbc.com\u002Fsubscribe\u002F?ocid=ear.bbc.email.we.email-signup\"\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E{\"image\":{\"pid\":\"\"}}\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco-17"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2021-07-01T22:34:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"How Taco Bell 'stole' the taco","headlineShort":"The original Taco Bell taco","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"The hard-shell taco is an important part of Mexican American history","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.110374","longitude":"-117.313991","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"The hard-shell taco is an important part of Mexican American history","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Despite Taco Bell's international fame, Mitla Cafe has a place in the history of Mexican American cuisine as the first eatery to serve hard-shell tacos in the United States.","summaryShort":"How and why Mitla Cafe has managed such longevity is miraculous","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2021-06-30T23:02:45.340398Z","entity":"article","guid":"56a21bd0-4e63-488f-bcfd-7ab5209d957b","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco","modifiedDateTime":"2022-02-25T03:30:07.002038Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220965},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","_id":"645409d7122e041ed2074553","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":["travel\u002Fauthor\u002Fkate-heddings"],"bodyIntro":"Cookbook author Bricia Lopez's smoky marinated chicken gets flavour from chillies, citrus and spices and pairs perfectly with a spicy beer-based michelada cocktail.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ECarne asada, as many people know it, is grilled marinated steak, often eaten in a taco or burrito. But in Mexico and Los Angeles, carne asada is also a social event. The asada is in essence a barbecue, where a smoking grill serves as the focal point for anywhere from six to 60 people gathered on a warm night in a back garden or at the local park. The meal includes sizzling marinated meats, seafood, rice, beans, salsas and ice-cold beer cocktails.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFor the Mexican communities living in Los Angeles, asadas are a joyful nod to their heritage and a time to gather. \"Asadas are about love, friendship,&nbsp;family and community,\" said Bricia Lopez, author of the new cookbook \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.abramsbooks.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fasada_9781419762888\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EAsada: The Art of Mexican Grilling\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.&nbsp;\"Every Mexican household has a big asada. It's a moment for us to get together with family.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"#Pollo in Guajillo\"\u003E[jump to recipe]\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELopez was born in Oaxaca but moved to Los Angeles when she was 10. In 1994, her family opened a Oaxacan restaurant called \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilovemole.com\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EGuelaguetza\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which she currently runs with her three siblings. In 2019, Lopez wrote her first book, \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ilovemole.com\u002Foaxacacookbook\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EOaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, celebrating her family history and the vibrant food of the region.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHer inspiration for the second book stemmed from an article on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bloomberg.com\u002Fnews\u002Ffeatures\u002F2020-07-02\u002Fno-more-burgers-and-dogs-for-the-4th-of-july-new-food-traditions#xj4y7vzkg\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBloomberg\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that featured the components of her asada. \"I saw the pictures in the article, and I realised how much I missed doing the asadas in 2020 and 2021 [during the pandemic],\" she said. \"I realised there are plenty of Mexican cookbooks, but not one about the meaning of asada.\" The book offers dozens of recipes for anyone looking for asada cooking guidance.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Lopez in her book, the Mexican tradition of carne asada (as a dish) stems to the 16th Century, when Spanish Jesuit colonisers settled in northern and north-eastern Mexico, developing the cattle industry and making beef a mainstay of the local diet.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was in the early 20th Century when asadas first started smoking in American backyards and parks. \"When immigrants from Mexico started to come to the US in the 1900s, they brought along with them their love of grilled carne asada,\" Lopez wrote in her book. \"The earliest mention of a \u003Cem\u003Ecarniceria \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(markets that sell marinated meats) in the US in print publications goes back to 1930.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe most common meat at an asada is \u003Cem\u003Eranchera\u003C\u002Fem\u003E (flap steak, also known as bavette steak or sirloin butt), but other meats like chorizo, lamb, pork and chicken are typically in rotation. For the poultry eaters in her group, Lopez makes \u003Cem\u003Epollo in guajillo\u003C\u002Fem\u003E: crispy chilli-marinated chicken thighs. The cinnamon and guajillo chilli (\"a very safe, well-balanced chilli that's a pantry staple in Mexico,\" she noted) are reminiscent of Oaxaca, but the vinegar in the marinade is an LA touch, inspired by the vinegary-marinated meats common in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodnetwork.com\u002Fhow-to\u002Fpackages\u002Ffood-network-essentials\u002Fwhat-is-barbacoa\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ebarbacoa cuisine\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is popular in LA. \"The chicken is a perfect combo of smoky and sweet,\" she said.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt's not a proper asada without beer, and Lopez is a very big proponent of the \u003Cem\u003Emichelada \u003C\u002Fem\u003E(she sells a \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fstore.ilovemole.com\u002Fcollections\u002Ffeatured-products\u002Fproducts\u002Fpre-rimmed-michelada-party-pack\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Epremade mix\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in retail stores), a drink made with cold beer, lime juice, hot sauce, Worcestershire and spices. It's sometimes made with tomato juice as well. \"It is one of the most delicious drinks that Mexico ever gave the world, but it's \u003Cem\u003Enever\u003C\u002Fem\u003E a Bloody Mary'' Lopez emphasised. \"It's a drink in its own right. The goal is to uplift the beer and make it spicy, tangy and salty, so you want to have three, four, five beers.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe morita chilli in the michelada is a unique touch. \"Because this is a grilling book,\" she said, \"I wanted to bring a smoky flavour to the drink\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELopez said that any grill can be used for an asada, but the most common one is a simple charcoal grill because it provides the requisite smoky flavour.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ENo matter what grill you use, what meat you cook, or where you are, Lopez reminds us: \"Throwing a carne asada is an act of love.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhv491"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca id=\"Pollo in Guajillo\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EPollo in Guajillo&nbsp;recipe\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Bricia Lopez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EServes 4\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E12 guajillo chillies (50g\u002F1&frac34;oz), stems and seeds removed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; large white onion (150g\u002F5&frac14;oz), roughly chopped\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E8 cloves garlic, peeled\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp black peppercorns (about 12 peppercorns)\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 whole clove\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp dried Mexican oregano\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp grapeseed oil\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; cup (60ml) orange juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp seasoned rice vinegar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E2 tbsp fresh lime juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac14; tsp ground cinnamon\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac12; tbsp sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E910g (2lb) bone-in chicken thighs\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a cast-iron skillet over medium heat, lightly toast the chillies, about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Remove from the skillet and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn the same skillet, add the onion and garlic, turning once or twice until they are lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Remove from the skillet and set aside.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EAdd the peppercorns, clove, and dried oregano to the pan and lightly toast until they are aromatic, about 2 minutes. Transfer the toasted spices and oregano to a molcajete or spice grinder and grind until finely ground.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 4\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EIn a high-performance blender or food processor, add the toasted chillies, onion, garlic, ground spices and oregano, oil, orange juice, rice vinegar, lime juice, cinnamon, and salt. Blend until most of the chillies have come apart.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 5\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EPat the chicken dry with paper towels. Using a gallon-size resealable bag, add the marinade and the chicken. Seal and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 6\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chicken thighs in their marinade from the fridge to allow them to reach room temperature before grilling.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 7\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EStart a charcoal or gas grill. The gas should be set to high. If using a pellet grill, preheat your grill to 230C (450F) for at least 15 minutes. If using charcoal, the coals should be red but entirely covered with grey ash.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 8\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chicken from the marinade and put them on the grill directly over the medium fire, skin side up. Close the lid and cook, turning once, about 15 minutes on each side. The chicken is cooked when its internal temperature reaches 79C (175F) on a meat thermometer. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":["p0fhv378"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E\u003Ca id=\"&quot;&lt;strong\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003EMorita Michelada recipe\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Ca\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBy Bricia Lopez\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMakes enough for 6 micheladas\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003E2 dried morita chillies\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E180ml (6oz) tomato juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E120ml (4oz) orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E60ml (2oz) fresh lime juice\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1&frac14; tbsp sugar\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E1 tbsp sea salt\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E&frac12; tsp freshly ground black pepper\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Echile-lime salt, for rimming glasses\u003Cbr \u002F\u003Ecold Mexican lager (can substitute lime- or grapefruit-flavoured sparkling water for a non-alcoholic version)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Ingredients","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EMethod\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 1\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EFill a small saucepan with enough water to cover the chillies and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the chillies to the hot water and allow them to soften and get tender, about 20 minutes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 2\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERemove the chillies from the water and allow them to cool to room temperature. Put the chillies in a blender and add the tomato juice, orange juice, lime juice, sugar, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce. Blend everything until smooth, then strain through a fine mesh sieve into a cup with a pouring spout.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003EStep 3\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003ERim a cold beer glass with the chilli-lime salt. Pour about 85 ml (3 oz) of the michelada mix into a beer glass, add 350ml (12oz) cold lager, and stir to combine. Serve cold.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E(Reprinted from Asada: The Art of Mexican-Style Grilling&nbsp;by Bricia Lopez with Javier Cabral [Abrams]\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;and&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E&nbsp;called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue-8"}],"collection":["travel\u002Fpremium-collection\u002Fworlds-table","travel\u002Fcolumn\u002Ffood-hospitality"],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-05-05T10:38:22Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Asada: The true essence of Mexican barbecue","headlineShort":"The real meaning of carne asada","image":["p0fhv38m"],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"34.0524074","longitude":"-118.3006681","mpsVideo":"","option":[{"Content":{"Description":"Apple News Publish: Select to publish, remove to unpublish. (Do not just delete or unpublish the story)","Name":"publish-applenews-system-1"},"Metadata":{"CreationDateTime":"2016-02-05T14:32:31.186819Z","Entity":"option","Guid":"13f4bc85-ae27-4a34-9397-0e6ad3619619","Id":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","ModifiedDateTime":"2022-02-27T22:52:24.455144Z","Project":"wwverticals","Slug":"option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1"},"Urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:option:option\u002Fpublish-applenews-system-1","_id":"6399dacc122e047625087534"}],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":["p0fhv38m"],"relatedStories":["travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230414-gallo-pinto-costa-rica-rice-and-beans","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230314-ajiaco-chicken-corn-and-potato-soup","travel\u002Farticle\u002F20210630-how-taco-bell-stole-the-taco"],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Cookbook author Bricia Lopez's smoky marinated chicken gets flavour from chillies, citrus and spices and pairs perfectly with a spicy beer-based michelada cocktail.","summaryShort":"It's about gathering around the grill for sizzling meat and icy beer cocktails","tag":["tag\u002Frecipe","tag\u002Ffood-drink"],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-05-04T19:38:46.644726Z","entity":"article","guid":"31cbee9c-d8f0-4e6a-9437-41427abd02dd","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-06T07:47:41.313518Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230504-asada-the-true-essence-of-mexican-barbecue","destinationIds":["travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Flos-angeles","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fcalifornia","travel\u002Fdestination-guide\u002Fusa"],"destinationStat":"north-america_usa_california_los-angeles_north-america_usa_california_north-america_usa","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220965},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone","_id":"6404f1e0122e041b1110160c","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"On 6 May 2023, Charles III will be crowned on the sacred Stone of Scone – an ancient symbol of Scottish sovereignty whose history is mired in controversy and legend.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWestminster Abbey is one of the most famous religious buildings in the world and one of London's key tourist sites. Built by Edward the Confessor in 1040, it has been the site of royal coronations since 1066. Anyone who watched the late Queen Elizabeth II's funeral will have seen its elegant gothic exterior and magnificent vaulted ceilings, while visitors will have walked by the graves and memorials of illustrious artists and writers, including Geoffrey Chaucer, Thomas Hardy, Rudyard Kipling, Shakespeare and the Bronte sisters.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd this year, in the run up to the Coronation of Britain's latest king, Charles III, visitors are paying particular attention to the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westminster-abbey.org\u002Fabout-the-abbey\u002Fhistory\u002Fthe-coronation-chair\"\u003ECoronation Chair\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, the seat on which English monarchs have been crowned since 1308.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"You can find it behind glass in St George's Chapel, just near the Great West Doors of the Abbey beside a portrait of Richard II seated there,\" said Sue King, a Blue Badge tourist guide for London and the Abbey. \"What you see is an old brown wooden chair, but there are accounts of how it was painted with images of kings, foliage and birds, gilded and fitted with precious stones. It's probably the oldest piece of furniture still in use in England.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EDespite its age, the chair is only part of the coronation story. Underneath the seat, along with a few initials carved by naughty schoolboys from Westminster School, is a wooden platform. This was designed by King Edward I to house the Coronation Stone, a sacred rock with mysterious origins that he brought from Scotland in 1296.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe platform is currently empty &ndash; but before the Coronation on 6 May, the stone will be brought from Edinburgh Castle (where it's housed alongside the Scottish Crown Jewels) to the Abbey when Charles III is crowned King of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Coronation Stone &ndash; also known as the Stone of Scone or Stone of Destiny &ndash; is an ancient symbol of Scottish sovereignty with links to Ireland and Spain, stolen by the English&nbsp;and even associated with biblical lore.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, while it has a long (and controversial) history, it actually looks like a fairly unremarkable rock: a rectangular slab of pinkish sandstone the size of a small suitcase that weighs around 152kg. Its only decoration is a roughly incised cross. At each end, iron rings are fitted. No one is quite sure when they were attached or whether their purpose was to make the stone easier to move or to chain it in place. And that's just one of many mysteries surrounding the stone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EIn the UK today, the small round bread\u002Fcake \"scone\" that forms part of the nation's much celebrated cream tea has a hotly contested pronunciation. Some say it rhymes with \"stone\" while others say with \"gone\". But the Stone of Scone rhymes with \"spoon\" and takes its name from Scone Palace &ndash; the historical crowning place of Scottish kings &shy;&ndash; in Scotland's highland county of Perthshire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"How to say it","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.nytimes.com\u002F1924\u002F08\u002F24\u002Farchives\u002Fthe-stone-of-scone-is-it-really-jacobs-pillow-that-a-scot-wishes.html\"\u003EAccording to legend\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, it was the same stone used by the biblical figure Jacob (the father of the Israelites) as a pillow in Bethel when he dreamed of a ladder reaching to heaven. From here, one of Jacob's sons is said to have taken it to Egypt, from where it travelled to Spain and later to Ireland when the Spanish king's son, Simon Brech, invaded the island in 700 BCE.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere it was placed on the sacred Hill of Tara near Skryne in County Meath and named the \u003Cem\u003ELia Fail\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, or \"speaking stone\", because it was said to groan aloud if the claimant was of royal blood but remained silent if he was a pretender.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"There are a number of Lia Fail in&nbsp;ancient Irish history,\" said Dr David Hume, an Ulster Scots historian, journalist and broadcaster. \"In 496 CE, a stone was in the possession of King Fergus M&oacute;r mac Eirc who ruled Dalriada, a kingdom that spanned the Irish Sea and incorporated parts of Western Scotland.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to Hume, the story goes that Fergus took the Lia Fail stone from Ireland to Scotland when he moved his royal seat to Dunnadd in Argyll in 498 CE. However, it's uncertain just how much of the story is true. The main evidence for it is in the Scottish Declaration of Arbroath in 1320 CE, signed by the Scottish nobles in an appeal to the Pope to recognise Scottish independence, which mentions an \"honour\" passing through the Mediterranean Sea and coming from Israel.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWhatever the truth, we know that the stone was taken to Scone Abbey in Perthshire after Kenneth I &ndash; who united the Scots and Pictish kingdoms and is known as the first King of Scotland &ndash; moved his capital from Western Scotland to Scone in around 840 CE. This \"Stone of Destiny\" was used for centuries in the coronation ceremonies of Scottish monarchs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut following his victory at the Battle of Dunbar in 1296, England's King Edward I marched north, seized the stone from Scone Abbey and had it fitted into the base of a specially crafted wooden Coronation Chair on which English &ndash; and later British &ndash; monarchs have been crowned inside London's Westminster Abbey ever since.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHowever, even this history remains disputed.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is a rumour that the monks at Scone Palace actually hid the real stone in the River Tay and tricked the English troops into taking a substitute. In addition, geologists have proven that the stone seized by Edward I was quarried in the vicinity of Scone rather than in biblical Judea. It's likely that a more ancient stone was used to crown the kings of Ireland, and this was probably brought first to Antrim from Tara and then to Scotland by King Fergus, but sometime after that it was replaced by the present stone that was quarried close to Scone.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EHowever, no one has ever found the hidden stone and, even though Scotland was not yet part of a United Kingdom, the stone that Edward took symbolically gave the future English kings dominion over Scotland. Because of this, the present stone's physical representation of the seat of monarchy has, over the years, made it a target for political activists.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn 1914, suffragettes detonated a bomb under the chair. During World War Two, concerns about German bombing led to the stone being secretly buried under Westminster Abbey, while the Coronation Chair was moved to Gloucester Cathedral until the war was over.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut not long after they were returned, a group of Scottish Nationalist students broke into the Abbey on Christmas Eve 1950. They removed the stone, which broke in the process (probably due to damage caused by the suffragette bomb) and hid it until it had been repaired. Four months later it was placed on the high altar at the ruined Arbroath Abbey &ndash; a building long associated with Scottish independence.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt was a spectacular stunt, and although the stone was returned to Westminster, the students were never charged and calls for Scottish independence continued to grow. In 1996, then British prime minister, John Major, tried to silence these calls with a curious PR move, announcing the stone would be returned to Scotland on the proviso that it would be brought back to Westminster for use in further coronations.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EGranting permission for this to happen was only half the battle. Removing the stone itself was an arduous task.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp class=\"xmsonormal\"\u003E\"When the Stone was returned to Scotland in 1996, the process of removing it from the chair required great care to ensure both were protected throughout,\" explained Kathy Richmond, head of Collections &amp; Applied Conservation at Historic Environment Scotland. The slow and carefully planned operation of lifting the Stone out of the Coronation Chair took a significant amount of time, with collection and conservation specialists working into the early hours.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis same procedure will be repeated later this year, when the stone is brought to London for the crowning of King Charles. Once the stone is laid under the Coronation Chair, they will be moved from their place by the West Door to the Coronation Theatre, an area in the middle of Westminster Abbey at the centre of the lines of the cross on which the abbey is constructed. Historically this area was decorated with bright wall paintings. Today its most striking feature is a bold medieval mosaic floor known as the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.westminster-abbey.org\u002Fabout-the-abbey\u002Fhistory\u002Fcosmati-pavement\"\u003ECosmati pavement\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Here the king will be anointed by the Archbishop of Canterbury,\" said King. \"For this private part of the ceremony, a canopy is placed over the chair by four Knights of the Garter. The then-king will be handed the Sword of Offering (which he hands back) and then the Sovereign Sceptre and Golden Orb before he is finally crowned with Edward's Crown.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThese items of coronation regalia are the heart of&nbsp;the Crown Jewels collection on display at the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hrp.org.uk\u002Ftower-of-london\u002Fvisit\u002F#gs.qmotqd\"\u003ETower of London\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E. \u003C\u002Fstrong\u003EBut current visitors to the Tower will not see quite as much as usual. The crown is being resized to fit King Charles III, and many other items will be borrowed to be worn by other members of the royal family.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Abbey will also be closed to the public in the days leading up to 6 May &ndash; as will Edinburgh Castle when the Stone of Destiny is removed. Given the stone's history and significance, the exact details of when and how it will be transported are a closely guarded secret.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut while these ancient buildings and artefacts are a magnet for tourists to the UK, the Coronation will serve as a reminder of their history &ndash; a history that is entwined with that of the British Isles, and perhaps even the ancient father of the Israelites.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003ECORRECTION:\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E&nbsp;A previous version of this article incorrectly attributed the buildiing of Westminster Abbey to King Edward I. This has now been updated.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone-14"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-03-06T10:46:53Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The disputed history of the Coronation Stone","headlineShort":"The sacred stone stolen by the English","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.4994","longitude":"-0.1273","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"On 6 May 2023, Charles III will be crowned on the sacred Stone of Scone – an ancient symbol of Scottish sovereignty whose history is mired in controversy and legend.","summaryShort":"The 'Stone of Destiny' on which Charles III will be crowned","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-03-05T19:47:27.079616Z","entity":"article","guid":"e0d1874a-09ee-4ea2-a803-1426f1258471","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone","modifiedDateTime":"2023-05-03T02:17:31.954381Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230305-the-disputed-history-of-the-coronation-stone","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220966},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup","_id":"64483c44122e041cf84286c4","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"Considered an appetiser of choice for British royalty for centuries, Brown Windsor Soup has long held a peculiar role in the national psyche. And it likely never existed at all.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EWith the exception of the recently announced \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Farticle\u002F20230430-royal-chef-mark-flanagans-coronation-quiche\" target=\"_blank\"\u003ECoronation Quiche\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", the menu for King Charles III's big-day banquet has yet to be made public, but the smart money says it will \u003Cem\u003Enot\u003C\u002Fem\u003E kick off with a steaming bowl of Brown Windsor Soup.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ECookbooks and TV shows, celebrity chefs and high-table gastronomes say that Brown Windsor Soup &ndash; a hearty, meat-based broth, often with added root vegetables, that has long held a peculiar role in the national psyche &ndash; was the appetiser of choice for British kings and queens, princes and princesses for a couple of centuries.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EOne popular \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.food.com\u002Frecipe\u002Fqueen-victorias-brown-windsor-soup-391231\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Erecipe-driven website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E describes the concoction as \"the very soup reputed to have built the British Empire and one that was oh-so-fashionable in Victorian and Edwardian times\", adding: \"Queen Victoria was particularly fond of it, and it regularly appeared on state banquet menus.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EA \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fbritishfoodhistory.com\u002F2012\u002F02\u002F13\u002Fhow-the-british-royal-family-was-saved-by-soup\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003Ehistory blog\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meanwhile, claims that in 1918, during World War One, the British royal family dumped their name of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha for that of the dun-hued dish &ndash; rather than for the Thames-side town that is home to the 11th-Century royal residence of \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.rct.uk\u002Fvisit\u002Fwindsor-castle\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EWindsor Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; in a bid to fend off anti-German sentiment.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWith the forelock-tugging masses taking their cue from the royals, comforting Brown Windsor Soup had by then become the go-to British soup for the common people, and it wore that crown until at least the 1940s, and possibly into the '80s, ladled out lavishly in loving homes and seaside hotels, and invariably featuring on the menu in richly upholstered British Railways dining cars. Or so the story goes.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBut then, as with all culinary trends, the once-voguish dish fell out of favour. In the make-do years of rationing after World War Two, as its recipe degenerated with the scarcity of quality ingredients, Brown Windsor Soup came to be seen as an unappetising slop of pur&eacute;ed leftovers and cheap gravy granules &ndash; and only fit for seen-better-days boarding houses and penny-pinching minor schools.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EIt's a colourful riches-to-rags tale, but even minimal research reveals it is likely a tall one, with experts in British culinary history arguing that the origin story of BWS is &hellip; well, almost certainly BS.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAccording to the late food historian Glyn Hughes, founder of the \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.foodsofengland.co.uk\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EFoods of England Project\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that was established to find \"the story behind every single traditional dish\", Brown Windsor Soup as the entr&eacute;e choice of the blue-blooded was always a myth.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn his book \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.lulu.com\u002Fshop\u002Fglyn-hughes\u002Fthe-lost-foods-of-england\u002Febook\u002Fproduct-14qemqjp.html?page=1&amp;pageSize=4\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Lost Foods of England\u003C\u002Fa\u003E&nbsp;(2017), Hughes argued that Brown Windsor Soup has no aristocratic pedigree at all, and in the era of Queen Victoria &ndash; the soup's alleged and opulent heyday, when its beefy essence was said to be fortified with Madeira wine from Portugal and other gastronomic exotica (such as quality cuts of steak and Andalucian sherry) &ndash; it likely never existed at all.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHughes pointed out that Brown Windsor Soup was not included in any of the celebrated Victorian cookbooks &ndash; notably Eliza Acton's Modern Cookery for Private Families (1845) and Isabella Beeton's Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management (1861) &ndash; nor in any fiction or encyclopaedia of the time. In his research he found no 19th-Century restaurant menus featuring the dish and zero record of it in British Railways archives.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"Nothing, absolutely nothing, has caused more controversy around the Foods of England Project than the origins of Brown Windsor Soup.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"Nothing, absolutely nothing, has caused more controversy around the Foods of England Project than the origins of Brown Windsor Soup,\" wrote Hughes, who believed the colourful myth of Brown Windsor Soup had swallowed up the more drab &ndash; but quirkier &ndash; reality.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHughes did find Brown Windsor Soup included on the menu of a cafe in a northern England department store in the 1920s, and cans of a dark \"Windsor Soup\" were commercially on sale in the 1940s, but he argued in his book that Brown Windsor Soup was not a dish steeped in history, but a creation of more modern popular culture.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBrown Windsor Soup only claimed its place in British culinary consciousness thanks to references in movies and shows &ndash; usually comedy shows &ndash; on radio and TV, quickly becoming a convenient punchline to jokes about lacklustre English gastronomy and the pretentious, class-conscious affectations of those for whom \"Windsor\" suggested elegance and refinement.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Foods of England therefore officially concludes that Brown Windsor Soup was invented around about 1950 for comedic, not culinary, purposes,\" Hughes wrote, \"and all other histories of it are complete fantasy.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere can be no doubt that variations of Brown Windsor Soup exist today, with a recipe in tongue-in-cheek bestseller \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simonandschuster.com\u002Fbooks\u002FThe-Unofficial-Harry-Potter-Cookbook\u002FDinah-Bucholz\u002FUnofficial-Cookbook\u002F9781440503252\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E (\"Brown Windsor Soup has a bad reputation, which it deserves&hellip; It's hardly fit for human consumption\") and a more \"regal\" version using sirloin steak and Madeira in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.simonandschuster.com\u002Fbooks\u002FThe-Unofficial-Downton-Abbey-Cookbook-Expanded-Edition\u002FEmily-Ansara-Baines\u002FUnofficial-Cookbook\u002F9781507210956\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Unofficial Downton Abbey Cookbook\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThere is also a spin on the dish on \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jamieoliver.com\u002Frecipes\u002Fbeef-recipes\u002Fbrown-windsor-soup-with-pearl-barley\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EJamie Oliver's website\u003C\u002Fa\u003E that employs \"meltingly tender beef\", pearl barley, Worcestershire sauce and Marmite (\"Tuck into this hearty and thick beef soup for a proper winter warmer\"). And Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge included his \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.dailymail.co.uk\u002Ffemail\u002Ffood\u002Farticle-3635663\u002FTom-s-royal-banquet-Brown-Windsor-soup.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EBrown Windsor Soup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E in a celebratory menu created for the late Queen's 90th birthday in 2016.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBritish writer \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lindseybareham.com\u002F\"\u003ELindsey Bareham\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, meanwhile, believes Brown Windsor Soup was \"a forebear of the ubiquitous 'brown soup' that was&hellip; largely responsible for giving British soups a bad name\" and the dish is \"almost extinct now\". She argues, however, that \"made properly it is rich and sustaining,&nbsp;rather like liquid stew\", and she includes the recipe for a \"good one\" in her popular book \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lindseybareham.com\u002Fbooks\u002F\"\u003EA Celebration of Soup\u003C\u002Fa\u003E.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESo, what really came first: the myth or the soup? And how did the monarchy get dragged into the mix?&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIf there is one place where it would surely appear on posh restaurant and traditional pub menus, that would be Windsor itself, which is one of England's most touristed spots. But a mini walking tour of the many culinary choices surrounding the massive, grey-stone castle proves fruitless.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EThe menu at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.pubanddining.co.uk\u002Froyal-windsor\u002Ffood\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Royal Windsor\u003C\u002Fa\u003E pub, which nestles in the shadow of the castle's imposing keep, includes no soups at all, but contemporary appetisers such as glazed chicken skewers, crispy coated whitebait and vegetable gyoza. The set menu at designer-chic venue \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fivycollection.com\u002Frestaurants\u002Fthe-ivy-royal-windsor-brasserie\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Ivy Royal Windsor Brasserie\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, which is located opposite the town's landmark statue of Victoria and the castle's Henry VIII Gateway entrance, has the option to begin with a creamed cauliflower soup; while the more affordable \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.jdwetherspoon.com\u002Fpubs\u002Fall-pubs\u002Fengland\u002Fberkshire\u002Fthe-king-and-castle-windsor\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EKing &amp; Castle\u003C\u002Fa\u003E beside the curfew tower makes do with nachos, wings and assorted pub-grub nibbles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Brown Windsor soup has nothing to do with royalty at all,\" said Marc Meltonville, a food historian who has acted as a consultant to the UK's Historic Royal Palaces charity that manages a number of the UK's unoccupied royal residences, including \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.hrp.org.uk\u002Fhampton-court-palace\u002F#gs.v3qgod\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHampton Court Palace\u003C\u002Fa\u003E just a few miles downriver. \"There were a couple of 'Windsor' soups in the 19th Century, and there were also brown soups&hellip; The brown soups of the Victorians were really good beef broths.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe soups using \"Windsor\" in their names were white soups, however, with the first being a creation of Henderson William Brand, chef to&nbsp;King George IV,&nbsp;who preceded Victoria on the throne, and the inventor of what would become&nbsp;A1 Sauce. In 1834, Brand published a cookbook containing a recipe for&nbsp;\"Vermicelli Soup, a la Windsor\" that employed white meat and noodles.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEleven years later, in his influential tome&nbsp;The Modern Cook, British-Italian Charles Elm&eacute; Francatelli, who was Victoria's head chef from 1840 to 1842, cooked up&nbsp;\"Calf's Feet Soup, a la Windsor\", its pale hue resulting from the ample addition of cream, chicken, white wine and macaroni.&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThen, Meltonville continues, in the 20th Century, the two descriptors &ndash; Windsor and brown &ndash; were inexplicably \"welded together\" to create the name of a soup that had previously not existed. The result proved less palatable than either.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ESo where did the name Brown Windsor soup come from? One school of thought has it that the confusion derived from \"Brown Windsor&nbsp;\u003Cem\u003ESoap\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\", a luxury personal hygiene product that was popular in 19th-Century high society, with Victoria said to be a fan (and Napoleon before her, and Winston Churchill sometime after).&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ESurrealist comic Spike Milligan was one of the first to see the comedy potential of Brown Windsor Soup, it seems, with it used more than once as the butt of jokes in \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb0072vdz\u002Fepisodes\u002Fplayer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EThe Goon Show\u003C\u002Fa\u003E &ndash; a BBC radio programme much loved, coincidentally, by the young Prince Charles in the 1950s. Countless others have run with the gag since then, with Brown Windsor Soup taking a walk-on role in everything from&nbsp;\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.co.uk\u002Fprogrammes\u002Fb009t2ld\u002Fepisodes\u002Fplayer\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EHancock's Half Hour\u003C\u002Fa\u003E and multiple&nbsp;Carry On&nbsp;films to television's&nbsp;Rumpole of the Bailey and the 2021 BBC series&nbsp;Around the World in 80 Days, among others.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EHaving been so totally embraced by British popular culture for decades, Hughes argued that a form of \"mass hallucination\" had come to pass, with many people's personal memories of the soup being false. And yet a huge number of British folk insist they remember the soup, frequently with shivers of dread but also occasionally with nostalgic affection.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EWriting in the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fhitchensblog.mailonsunday.co.uk\u002F2010\u002F03\u002Fwhy-should-we-be-on-berlin-time-at-all-let-alone-all-the-time.html\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMail on Sunday\u003C\u002Fa\u003E newspaper in 2010, columnist Peter Hitchens recalled being offered a meal on a train between York and London \"sometime in the late 1970s\". It was shortly after 09:00 and the proffered meal started \"with Brown Windsor Soup, continuing with roast lamb and ending with cheese and biscuits,\" Hitchens wrote. \"When I jokingly said that this was a pretty odd breakfast, an angry steward&hellip; ordered me out of the dining car.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"square","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAnd writing in The Spectator magazine just last year under the headline \"\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.spectator.co.uk\u002Farticle\u002Fmake-rail-travel-great-again\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003EMake rail travel great again\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\", Hitchens suggested that Eurostar should include \"a proper dining car\" on its trains, where passengers might \"subside into deep seats\" to be \"served Brown Windsor Soup followed by delicious railway fish and then perhaps apple pie\".\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe Brown Windsor Soup association with train travel runs deep in the British psyche, despite the fact that Hughes found no record of it in British Railways archives, with soups rarely served on bouncing, lurching trains for obvious reasons.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIn the 1994 TV adaptation of&nbsp;Agatha Christie's novel Hercule Poirot's Christmas,&nbsp;the fussy Belgian detective is on a train journey and he is hungry. Of the attendant in the dining car he asks, \"Please tell me, what is this Brown Windsor Soup?\" To which he is told, \"Well sir, it is soup. From Windsor.\" On being served his requested dish, Poirot is shocked. \"But it does not look very \u003Cem\u003Ed&eacute;licieux\u003C\u002Fem\u003E,\" he said with disappointment. \"Well, it&nbsp;is&nbsp;Brown Windsor Soup,\" comes the passionless reply. (It should be noted that no such scene appears in Christie's original 1938 novel.)\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"PullQuote","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"\"The 'Windsor' thing is a bit of a joke, really – a nuisance.\"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\"The 'Windsor' thing is a bit of a joke, really &ndash; a nuisance,\" Meltonville said of the label. \"A chef can take a recipe that already exists, add one new ingredient and then put a spin on it by adding 'Windsor' or 'coronation' to its name &ndash; or 'Buckingham', suggesting it was made in Buckingham Palace.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAnd looking ahead to King Charles' coronation, the historian adds: \"I'll be interested to see what dish is given '\u003Cem\u003E&agrave; la royale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E'. There will be something \u003Cem\u003E&agrave; la royale\u003C\u002Fem\u003E, I'm sure of it.\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EAccording to a menu found online and purporting to be from Queen Victoria's coronation banquet in 1838, that extravagant meal began with green turtle soup, and though she presided over numerous banquets throughout her reign of almost 64 years, Brown Windsor Soup does not seem to appear on surviving menus. Rice soup, threaded egg soup, pheasant dumpling soup, a chicken consomm&eacute; thickened with tapioca&hellip; many other soups graced Victoria's table though the years, but Brown Windsor Soup never made the grade. It was not even served at the luncheon for her Windsor funeral on 2 February 1901. That honour went to \u003Cem\u003Econsomm&eacute; &agrave; la doria\u003C\u002Fem\u003E &ndash; a game soup topped with white truffles from Piedmont.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EAll the evidence, in fact, suggests that while food might be an integral part of royal and state events, monarchs of recent centuries have not been especially fussy about the fodder served up to them, even for their once-in-a-regal-lifetime coronation feasts, with Victoria appearing especially indifferent.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\"Queen Victoria cared so little about her coronation banquet,\" Meltonville said, \"that in her diary she wrote all about the actual coronation, the things that went wrong, who fell over &ndash; including one bishop &ndash; what everyone wore, and then at the end she simply writes, 'And we dined at eight.'\"\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EBBC.com's \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bbc.com\u002Ftravel\u002Fworlds-table\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWorld's Table\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E \"smashes the kitchen ceiling\" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\" target=\"_blank\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup-16"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-26T10:40:12Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"The muddy history of Brown Windsor Soup","headlineShort":"The famous soup that never existed","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"","longitude":"","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"Considered an appetiser of choice for British royalty for centuries, Brown Windsor Soup has long held a peculiar role in the national psyche. And it likely never existed at all.","summaryShort":"Some say it was invented for comedic, not culinary, purposes","tag":[],"textToSpeech":false,"creationDateTime":"2023-04-25T20:46:42.449494Z","entity":"article","guid":"588eb220-760e-45f6-ab12-fc03397f2e05","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup","modifiedDateTime":"2023-04-30T15:28:35.258973Z","project":"wwverticals","slug":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230425-the-muddy-history-of-brown-windsor-soup","cacheLastUpdated":1685450220966},"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london":{"urn":"urn:pubpipe:wwverticals:article:travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london","_id":"6445fa9d122e041b0a5b9606","ambientVideo":"","articleType":"story","assetVideo":null,"author":[],"bodyIntro":"The author of London's Best Pubs shares his eight favourite drinking spots in the capital, including the Lamb & Flag in Covent Garden and the Princess Louise in Holborn.","businessUnit":"worldwide","cards":[{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003EBeyond the grand sweeping streets and gracious leafy parks, London is a city of more than 3,500 pubs &ndash; and going to one isn't just a frequent pastime but an after-work ritual. They're as important to the capital as its most visited tourist attractions, and many have endured, evolved and survived through the centuries. But one of the things that hasn't changed is the importance of the pub as a social hub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EEngage a Brit in conversation and the chances are they'll soon tell you about their favourite pub. Most Londoners can remember the name of the first one they had a beer in, while everyone has an opinion on what makes a pub great, beyond the variety of beers on tap.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EI believe the best pubs have history and heritage that adds to their character and tells you something about the story of London. Here are eight of my favourites, each with their own rich tale to tell that will make your time in one of the world's greatest cities even more memorable.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"infographic","imageAlignment":"centre","imageOrientation":"landscape","pullQuoteImageAlignment":"centre","videoImageAlign":"centre","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-0"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-1"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E1. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese &middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EFleet Street was once London's media centre, buzzing with journalists and surrounded by mammoth print factories humming with the production of millions of daily newspapers. The newspapers have moved on to new locations, but this astonishing old inn remains, almost lost up a tiny alley that once housed the Royal Excise until the Great Fire of London of 1666.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-2"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"calloutBodyHtml":"\u003Cp\u003EIf you don't know the difference between ale and lager, don't be afraid to ask. Good bar staff should always be happy to help.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E","calloutTitle":"Tip:","cardType":"CalloutBox","iFrameType":"","pullQuote":"Tip: If you don't know the difference between ale and lager, don't be afraid to ask. Good bar staff should always be happy to help.","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-3"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003ERebuilt after the fire in 1667, this labyrinth of a pub has sawdust covered floors, narrow winding staircases and a flurry of small wood-lined rooms that are still ideal haunts for whispered conversations. Some of country's literary greats have drunk at \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FYe+Olde+Cheshire+Cheese\u002F@51.514371,-0.1097448,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487604b2c8041997:0xe0708e184a0bc7a6!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604b2c7fd4933:0x84453ae77f4e5966!8m2!3d51.5143677!4d-0.1071699!16s%2Fm%2F051tc76\"\u003EYe Olde Cheshire Cheese\u003C\u002Fa\u003E, including lexicographer Dr Samuel Johnson and novelists G K Chesterton, Charles Dickens and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. A roll call of famous names adorns the walls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EBeer is served through hatches, while the three small eating areas serve up unashamedly British dishes including steak and kidney pie, fish and chips and apple pie with custard. Head down to the cellar with its small oak-beamed bar, ancient flagstone floor and equally old wooden settles to try Yorkshire brewer Samuel Smith's traditionally made cask beer.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.ye-olde-cheshire-cheese.co.uk\u002F\"\u003Ewww.ye-olde-cheshire-cheese.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: City of London\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 145 Fleet Street, Fleet Street, London EC4A 2BU\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7353 6170\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-4"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-5"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E2. Churchill Arms &middot; $\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt sounds like an elaborate music hall joke: an English pub, run by an Irishman, serving Thai food &ndash; with a Chelsea Flower Show-qualifying hanging garden display on the outside, and WW2, royal and hurling memorabilia occupying every inch of the inside walls. But former long-time landlord Gerry O'Brien made it work, making the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Churchill+Arms,+Kensington\u002F@51.506915,-0.1973759,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48760ffa31d53019:0x379aa0d23b50cf3a!8m2!3d51.5069117!4d-0.194801!16s%2Fg%2F11d_wtfd5b\"\u003EChurchill Arms\u003C\u002Fa\u003E one of the prettiest and most convivial pubs in West London.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pub wins awards for the eccentricity of its displays. Outside in spring, a stunning spectacle of floral hanging baskets would make Babylon look plain. Come December, the pub is wrapped in tinsel and the floral display replaced with 100 Christmas trees and more then 20,000 festive LED lights.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EInside is a festival of strangeness: more than 1,600 butterflies are mounted and displayed, while 100 chamber pots hang from the ceiling, jostling for attention alongside lanterns, hat boxes and tributes to American presidents. The bar area is welcoming, with real ale from Fullers, and locals mixing with regulars from the nearby Daily Mail and Evening Standard offices. The conservatory-like restaurant at the back has served well-priced curries and Pad Thai since the 1980s; order prawn crackers at the bar if regular crisps feel too ordinary for the surroundings.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.churchillarmskensington.co.uk\u002F\"\u003Ewww.churchillarmskensington.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Kensington\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 119 Kensington Church St, London W8 7LN\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 (0) 20 7727 4242\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fchurchillarmsw8\u002F?hl=en\"\u003E: @churchillarmsw8\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-6"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-7"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E3. Cross Keys &middot; $$\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThis ever-popular Victorian alehouse is an excellent spot to grab a pint and a bite to eat, not least for its location in Covent Garden close to many fine theatres and boutiques.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe current pub was built in the 1840s as part of a slum clearance programme in the area. In the summer months, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Cross+Keys\u002F@51.5145341,-0.1273179,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604ccc9a2f4eb:0x3b2875219071965b!8m2!3d51.5145308!4d-0.124743!16s%2Fm%2F011sp8kp\"\u003ECross Keys\u003C\u002Fa\u003E' elaborate gilded exterior is vibrant with floral baskets. Inside you'll find an eye-catching display of copper kettles and musical instruments and even a diving helmet. The walls are adorned with large mirrors, striking clocks and numerous portraits, while adding to the ephemera is collection of Beatles memorabilia, including a bust of John Lennon. Look out for a napkin signed by Elvis Presley on one wall &ndash; a former landlord of the pub was a huge fan of rock music.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe menu offers classic pub fare, including fish and chips, burgers and ale-battered onion rings; while the impressive beer selection has range of local and international brews on tap. The staff are friendly and attentive, though it can get very busy in the early evenings when the office crowd descend for an after-work drink.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: Covent Garden\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 31 Endell Street, London WC2H 9BA\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 20 7836 5185\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fcross.keys.wc2\u002F\"\u003E@cross.keys.wc2\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-8"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-9"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E4. Lamb &amp; Flag\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003Cstrong\u003E&middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe outside of the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Lamb+%26+Flag,+Covent+Garden\u002F@51.5117333,-0.1282499,17z\u002Fdata=!3m2!4b1!5s0x487604cc5197cb99:0x249f84c4005e71b2!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604cc51d5fca9:0xa1757c8255eccbed!8m2!3d51.51173!4d-0.125675!16s%2Fg%2F1tf7x5mf\"\u003ELamb &amp; Flag\u003C\u002Fa\u003E might not be much to look at, with its 1950s brick exterior, but this popular drinking spot in Covent Garden is one of London's best and quirkiest pubs.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIts history stretches back to the early 18th Century when the pub was known as the Coopers Arms (it was renamed the Lamb &amp; Flag in 1833). In the early 19th Century, it was nicknamed \"The Bucket of Blood\" in reference to the bare-knuckled boxing matches that took place here.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the area is much less bloody. The pub, which is a short walking distance from Leicester Square and Covent Garden underground stations, is warm and welcoming, with wooden beams adorned with Latin inscriptions, horse brasses and time worn prints. Conversations and laughter echo off the wood-panelled walls. On cooler days, head to the back bar to be close to the roaring log fire.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EUpstairs is the Dryden Room, a bar-restaurant named after the controversial poet John Dryden. Order the fish and chips and snag a spot by the windows for some people watching.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk\u002F\"\u003Ewww.lambandflagcoventgarden.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Covent Garden\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 33 Rose Street, Covent Garden London WC2E 9EB\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 20 7497 9504\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Flamb_and_flag_coventgarden\u002F\"\u003E@lamb_and_flag_coventgarden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-10"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-11"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E5. Ye Olde Mitre &middot; $$\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ETucked down a narrow alley, \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FYe+Olde+Mitre,+Holborn\u002F@51.5184401,-0.1099677,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48761b4dbb5e07b3:0x3b9df1788edd0878!8m2!3d51.5184368!4d-0.1073928!16s%2Fm%2F051tvvs\"\u003EYe Olde Mitre\u003C\u002Fa\u003E may not be easy to find, but that's just part of this cosy pub's charm. It's found between Hatton Garden, London's jewellery quarter, and the Inns of Court, the professional offices for barristers in Holborn, and it's not unusual to find lawyers and jewellers dropping in for a quick pie and pint for lunch.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe character-filled pub dates to 1546 when it was a residence for the servants of the Bishop of Ely who had a palace nearby. The mitre is a reference to the deeply cleft, tall hat worn by bishops.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe interior has been remodelled many times and exudes a charming, wood-panelled eccentricity. Big in heart, it's small in structure and without a full-sized kitchen, meaning the food offering is limited to toasties and pork pies &ndash; but that's all you need alongside a pint of real ale or craft beer. Since seating space is limited, on busy days you may have to stand in the alley and rest your drinks on the large wooden barrels that serve as tables.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELook out for the gnarled and shrivelled cherry tree growing outside against a wall. It is said to mark the boundary between the estates of the Bishop of Ely and Sir Christopher&nbsp;Hatton, after whom Hatton Garden is named. The friendly staff are usually happy to explain the history of the pub.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.yeoldemitreholborn.co.uk\u002F\"\u003Ewww.yeoldemitreholborn.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Neighbourhood: Hatton Garden\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Address: 1 Ely Court, Ely Place, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 6SJ\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Phone number: +44 20 7405 4751\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003Cem\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fyeoldemitreholborn\u002F?hl=en\"\u003E@yeoldemitreholborn\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-12"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-13"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E6. Princess Louise\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E \u003Cstrong\u003E&middot; $\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EDespite being located on High Holborn, one of the drabber routes through the city, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FPrincess+Louise,+208+High+Holborn,+London+WC1V+7EP,+UK\u002F@51.5172956,-0.1242011,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x48761b34f3f89d81:0x9c0b061930b0cccc!8m2!3d51.5172923!4d-0.1216262!16s%2Fg%2F1yfdrv7xr\"\u003EPrincess Louise\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is the finest, most original, most complete example of a high-Victorian pub in London. It is a national treasure.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pub was built in 1872 and named after a daughter of Queen Victoria. It was remodelled 20 years later using the resources and craftsmanship garnered from a rich and prosperous Empire. But the next 100 years did not treat the pub well and it became run down, neglected and faced an uncertain future.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EStep in the Yorkshire brewer Samuel Smith, who bought the pub and knew better than to even consider destroying the fabulous interior.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EToday, the pub is a feast for the eyes. It includes swathes of ornate marble, high ceilings and large etched windows, and a fabulous art nouveau dado. The pub still retains its snob panels, movable wooden frames that were intended to allow middle-class drinkers to see working-class drinkers in an adjacent bar, but not to be seen by them.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe pub is split into two levels; arrive early to grab once of the prized private booths on the lower level.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003ENeighbourhood: Holborn\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 208 High Holborn, Holborn, London WC1V 7EP\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +4420 7405 8816\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-14"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"landscape","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-15"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E7. Star Tavern &middot; $$\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003ELocated in a Grade-II listed Georgian building off Belgrave Square, the \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Star+Tavern,+Belgravia\u002F@51.498427,-0.1584014,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x4876053c634b52b7:0xfcd156b8f33eb69!8m2!3d51.4984237!4d-0.1558265!16s%2Fm%2F010hmlfp\"\u003EStar Tavern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is one of the most renowned real ale pubs in the country. It's also one of the few pubs to have featured in every edition of the Campaign for Real Ale's Good Beer Guide for 50 years.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EIt is said that the best pubs are like a watering hole on an African plain where the lion and antelope can drink side by side. This makes the Star the perfect watering hole. In the 1950s and early '60s, London's gangland villains could be found drinking next to landed gentry and A-list celebrities. A sign in the pub explains that it was the venue for the planning of the 1964 Great Train Robbery, a multi- million-pound heist .\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe emphasis at the Star Tavern is on great service, good beers and home-cooked food in an unpretentious environment. The menu includes pub favourites like steak pies, fish and chips and a hearty Sunday roast. But the star of the show has to be the quality of the beer, much of it is brewed at the Fuller's brewery in Chiswick on the banks of the river Thames.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.star-tavern-belgravia.co.uk\u002F\"\u003Ewww.star-tavern-belgravia.co.uk\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Belgravia\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 6 Belgrave Mews West, Belgravia, LondonSW1X 8HT\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 20 7235 3019\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fthestartavern\u002F?hl=en\"\u003E@thestartavern\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-16"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"Image","iFrameType":"","image":[],"imageAlignment":"left","imageOrientation":"portrait","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-17"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cstrong\u003E8. The Harp &middot; $$\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E\u003C\u002Fstrong\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fplace\u002FThe+Harp,+Covent+Garden\u002F@51.5097227,-0.1285178,17z\u002Fdata=!3m1!4b1!4m6!3m5!1s0x487604cc29d97429:0x52cdf9e1d104cf66!8m2!3d51.5097194!4d-0.1259429!16s%2Fm%2F01211gv0\"\u003EThe Harp\u003C\u002Fa\u003E is a near-perfect pub, and a must-visit for any ale lover. It was once named the best pub in the county by the consumer group the Campaign for Real Ale, while a board in the upstairs bar lists many of the pubs well-deserved accolades.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EMuch loved by actors and staff from the many nearby theatres, the narrow downstairs bar is decorated with elaborate mirrors, portraits and references to famous theatre productions. The pub has a long-held tradition of not playing intrusive background music or having television screens, and customers are discouraged from using mobile phones inside. The noise from real conversations is preferred to the chatter of people on calls.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003EThe beer selection is extensive and impressive. The Harp offers a rotating selection of cask ales with a focus on smaller, independent breweries. If you're not sure what to order, the knowledgeable staff will be happy to offer recommendations and samples to help you find your perfect pint.\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EWebsite: \u003Ca href=\"http:\u002F\u002Fwww.harpcoventgarden.com\u002F\"\u003Ewww.harpcoventgarden.com\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Neighbourhood: Covent Garden \u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Address: 47 Chandos Pl, London WC2N 4HS\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Phone number: +44 20 7836 0291\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E Instagram: \u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Ftheharpcoventgarden\u002F\"\u003E@theharpcoventgarden\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-18"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[]},"cardType":"IFrame","iFrameCustomHtml":"\u003Ciframe src=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.google.com\u002Fmaps\u002Fd\u002Fu\u002F0\u002Fembed?mid=1qzETVy8ZeS4xDm1WzNsMR6C3HgDZOPw&ehbc=2E312F\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\"\u003E\u003C\u002Fiframe\u003E","iFrameType":"customEmbedded","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-19"},{"bodyHtml":{"assets":[],"html":"\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E(Beer-lover Tim Hampson is author of London's Best Pub and London's Riverside Pubs. He is editor of What's Brewing Online and Beer magazine. Find him on Twitter @beerhero.)\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003E---&nbsp;\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cem\u003EJoin more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.facebook.com\u002FBBCTravel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EFacebook\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E, or follow us on \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Ftwitter.com\u002FBBC_Travel\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003ETwitter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E and \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.instagram.com\u002Fbbc_travel\u002F\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003EInstagram\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E\n\u003Cp\u003E\u003Cbr \u002F\u003E \u003Cem\u003EIf you liked this story, \u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003Ca href=\"https:\u002F\u002Fcloud.email.bbc.com\u002FSignUp10_08\"\u003E\u003Cem\u003Esign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fa\u003E\u003Cem\u003E called \"The Essential List\". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday.\u003C\u002Fem\u003E\u003C\u002Fp\u003E"},"cardType":"Body","iFrameType":"","id":"travel\u002Farticle\u002F20230424-eight-of-the-best-pubs-in-london-20"}],"collection":[],"disableAdverts":false,"displayDate":"2023-04-25T01:07:38Z","embeddedCustomHtml":"","embeddedInfographicUrl":"","embeddedType":"infographic","headlineLong":"Eight of the best pubs in London","headlineShort":"Eight of the best pubs in London","image":[],"imageAlignment":"centre","imageAltText":"","isSyndicated":true,"latitude":"51.5072","longitude":"-0.1276","mpsVideo":"","option":[],"partner":null,"primaryVertical":"travel","promoAlignment":"centre","promoAltText":"","promoImage":[],"relatedStories":[],"relatedTag":null,"summaryLong":"The author of London's Best Pubs shares his eight favourite drinking spots in the capital, including the Lamb & Flag in Covent Garden and the Princess Louise in 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